Bagno Vignoni

Looking back over the past several posts, it is easy to understand why the entire Val d’Orcia is a UNESCO world heritage site. It would be impossible to pick just one town, one church, one monument with places like the Abbazia Sant’Antimo and Monticchiello in the running. To add one more reason why this valley is so special, add to the list the tiny hamlet of Bagno Vignoni.

In Italian bagno means bath, and here in Bagno Vignoni the baths are the hot spring fed pools for which this small hilltop village is famous. While there are certainly more modern spas located here today, the uniqueness of the town lies in its historic pools - sulfurous and hot, they’ve been used since Roman times. Pilgrims, popes, future saints, artists, and a host of important persons from centuries past have come to soak in the warm waters. Even before the medieval baths were built, the Etruscans came to the natural hot springs in this area.

Another view of the Baths of St. Catherine

At first glance, it would be easy to believe the village hasn’t changed for centuries. The main piazza in Bagno Vignoni is ancient and unlike any other I’ve seen in Italy. No central square with historic statue or fountain here. Instead, the central Piazza delle Sorgenti is a large, rectangular pool, fed by the hot springs just below. It dates back to the 1500’s and has changed little since that time. The pool is surrounded on 3 sides by a wall and, just beyond that, beautiful stone buildings. There are homes, shops, and a church standing just outside the wall of the baths.

An doorway in central Bagno Vignoni

On the fourth side of the large pool is the Loggia of Saint Catherine of Siena. Imagine her sitting there (well before she achieved sainthood) to admire the view of the pools. History says she did just that.

The Loggia of Saint Catherine (on the right)

On closer inspection, there are definitely signs of a more modern life here. Shops and cafes surround the main pool and branch out into the pretty side streets. A bit further on are hotels advertising spa services.

Not far from the central pool there is a series of small channels where the water flows to the cliffs that overlook the valley. Once upon a time these channels fed mills which were important to the economy of the town.

One of the abandoned buildings in the Parco dei Mulini

Today the Parco dei Mulini (Park of the Mills) is a place to dip your hands into the warm water and also to enjoy the expansive views. Looking down, the water runs over the cliff and way down below is a large pool for bathing.

A large pool lies at the foot of the cliffs of the Parco dei Mulini

Looking up, towards Castiglione d’ Orcia, is a huge ancient fortress, the Rocca a Tentennano (sometimes called the Rocca d’Orcia).

Rocca a Tentennano, a short drive from Bagno Vignoni

Bagno Vignoni is a marvel - and one more reason to spend some time exploring the Val d’Orcia.

The Streets of Siena

The city of Siena sits in the middle of Tuscany, surrounded by fantastic landscapes, charming hill towns, and sweeping valleys. A UNESCO World Heritage site, Siena is a city of ancient brick buildings which hug medieval streets, steep lanes, beautiful piazzas, and architectural wonders.

One could easily spend several weeks (or a lifetime) exploring the wonders of Siena. But my recent visit didn’t afford me the luxury of time - I was simply passing through on my way to a week long trip to the Val d’Orcia in south central Tuscany (see end note re: current travel restrictions in Tuscany) . All I had time for was a leisurely walk through town and a nice lunch.

Siena’s cathedral under a beautiful fall sky

Walking toward the historic center of Siena, the dominant feature is the view of 13th century cathedral, its dome and campanile (bell tower) rising high above the rooftops of the city. Up close, the cathedral wows with its marble facade, elaborate portals, sculptures, gargoyles, and mosaics. The bell tower, with its striking black and white stripes, stretches high above. No time to go inside on this trip, that will have to wait for another visit.

Piazza del Campo, Siena on a sunny fall day

Siena’s most recognizable landmark is its shell-shaped central square, the Piazza del Campo. Long ago this sweeping open space served as Siena’s marketplace. Today it is a gathering spot for locals and visitors alike (and their dogs, who enjoy laying on the warm pavement on a chilly fall morning). The piazza is famous for the architecture of the buildings that ring it, the Palazzo Pubblico (City Hall) and the tall tower, the Torre del Mangia. The Piazza del Campo is also where the famous Palio horse race takes place. On the day of my visit in late October, sun and warmth radiated off the brick surface of the uncrowded piazza.

The Palazzo Pubblico and the Torre del Mangia, Siena

The piazza is also home to the beautiful Fonte Gaia, the Fountain of Joy. The fountain was originally an important source of water for the city. Today it is appreciated as a work of art for the graceful marble reliefs which enclose it on three sides. I have not seen a fountain of this type in other Italian cities, both its shape and the carved surround make it unique to Siena.

These may be Siena’s most famous sights, but Siena is more than just famous landmarks; it’s a beautiful city with streets and squares perfect for wandering.

There are medieval buildings, churches and convents, roof tops, steep streets, and arched alleyways giving glimpses of hidden corners. Taking time to soak it all in is a joy, even if you just have a few hours to wander through town.

The roof tops of Siena

Note: Italy is now seeing a resurgence of COVID infections and, at present, many daily life and travel restrictions are in place. My trip to south central Tuscany was complaint with all restrictions that existed in late October and the first few days of November. Look for upcoming posts over the next few weeks about several of the villages in the Val d’Orcia that I visited during my week-long trip. I hope these posts will be a reminder of the beauty of Italy that awaits when travel is once again possible.

Autumn in the Val d'Orcia

Tuscany is incredibly diverse. The land includes hills, valleys, mountains, forests, rivers, marshlands, lakes, and coastlines. There is even an island - Elba. Tuscany boasts small hilltop villages that few tourists have discovered, popular walled cities such as Lucca, the bustling port city of Livorno, Florence which is famous for its art and architecture, industrial areas and transportation centers. Whew - I could go on and on describing all the different aspects of Tuscany.

But when you ask someone to close their eyes and picture Tuscany, the image they are very likely to conjure is one of soft hillsides dotted with farmhouses, winding roads lined with tall cypress trees, fields terraced with grapevines, and groves of olive trees. This classic image of Tuscany comes from one specific area - the Val d’Orcia.

A classic Tuscan landscape, just outside of the small hamlet of Montichiello in the Val d’Orcia

The Val d’Orcia lies in south central Tuscany, beginning just south of the city of Siena. The whole region - comprised of the municipalities of Montalcino, San Quirico d’Orcia, Pienza, Castiglione d’Orcia, and Radicofani - is a UNESCO World Heritage site. There are no big cities in this region. Small towns and even smaller picture-perfect hilltop villages are scattered throughout. Driving around the Val d’Orcia provides one astonishing view after another. Gorgeous at any time of year, seeing the Val d’Orcia in fall is a special treat.

After the harvest, grape leaves turn gold and red on the vines

The colors of autumn, as the leaves on the grapevines turn gold and then red, the olives ripen on the trees, the valleys and oak forests shimmer with color, are nothing sort of breathtaking. I was fortunate to spend a week in this area in late October / early November - peak color season. Each day brought changes - deepening hues on the grapevines, vines which seemed on fire as their red leaves climbed up stone walls, waves of yellow in the fields, ground covered with oak leaves which crunched beneath my feet as I walked, and the sound of acorns falling from the trees.

As a bonus, the autumn skies had ever changing cloud formations and mornings often began with deep fog rolling down the valley, cloaking familiar sights in an air of mystery.

As for the autumn sunsets and moonrises - wow.

Dusk in the Val d’Orcia, from the grounds of Agriturismo Cretaiole near Pienza

The Val d’Orcia is beautiful when viewed close up on a walk or on a drive, but is even more spectacular when viewed from high up in a hill town. There is something deeply moving about these small hill top villages, about the land here, and about the changing seasons view from above. It fills me with a sense of peace, hope, and the feeling that everything really will be all right with the world, everything in its season.

Fall seen from Montepulciano which lies just beyond the border of the Val d’Orcia

As Italy entered into a “soft” lockdown (less restrictive than last spring, more restrictive than summer and early fall), I felt incredibly fortunate that it was still possible for me to travel to this part of Tuscany and experience the wonder of autumn in the Val d’Orcia. The experience was not diminished by the need to wear masks outdoors, the lack of evening dining (the latest decree meant that restaurants had to close by 6pm that week), frequent hand washing and never being far from a bottle of hand sanitizer, and the closure of many shops. In fact, I think those restrictions gave me a deeper appreciation for the things we can still do and the beauty we can still experience. And next year, when (fingers crossed) things open up again, I hope that visitors will once again return to this region. The area will need our support to recover from this year of economic hardship and we will need the beauty of these places to help restore our spirits.

Sunset, near Pienza, early November 2020

A Fall Day in Lucca

Fall is my favorite time of year whether I’m in the United States or in Italy. I love the changing leaves, the autumn scents (roasting green chile in New Mexico, chestnuts in Italy), the colorful gourds and pumpkins, and the feel of crisp air on my face. But to spend fall in Lucca - now that is seasonal bliss.

I spent a good part of this summer outside of Italy, returning in mid-September. With a two week quarantine on arrival, I watched from my window as the last days of summer slipped away and fall crept in. What a relief to finish those two confined weeks and step out into an Italian autumn.

Looking down from the walls into the city of Lucca

Fall began with a spell of stormy weather marked by cloudy skies, rolling thunder, falling tree branches, and periods of heavy rain. Everyone tried to take advantage of breaks in the storms to get outside, run errands, stop for an outdoor coffee, and go for walks. That’s exactly what my Saturday consisted of this past weekend. The best part of the day was a mid-afternoon walk along le mura (the walls that enclose the historic city center). It took place under dramatic skies and a mist in the air that almost, but not quite, required an ombrello (umbrella).

Storm clouds over Piazza Santa Maria, Lucca

The city walls are lined with trees which, at this time of year, make a colorful statement. Looking up into the branches is an artist’s palette of color. Looking down, the falling leaves cover the ground in shades of gold and yellow. Chestnuts fall and crunch under foot, their spiny outer shells and dark brown nuts symbolizing the season.

A tree trunk covered in moss and “Venus’s belly button”

Many of the trees along the walls are covered in moss (something I certainly don’t see in arid New Mexico).

This year, for the first time, I’ve noticed another plant growing through the moss on one of the trees - delicate stalks with small, round, green tops. I’m told they are called Venus’s Belly Button (officially Cotyledon Umbilicus). An internet search tells me they are used in homeopathic medicine. Fascinating!

As my walk around the walls continued, each bend in the path brought a different view of the increasingly dark and cloudy sky. It was an if an artist were painting individual scenes with expert use of light and dark against trees and sky. If only I could paint! Instead, I pulled out my camera in an attempt to capture the beauty of the day.

I could not have asked for a more perfect autumn afternoon or a more beautiful setting in which to enjoy it. I arrived home just as the mist turned into rain. Perfect timing, perfect fall day.

A storm brewing on an October afternoon in Lucca

A Day Trip to Lerici

Summer arrived right on schedule in northern Italy, ushered in by the summer solstice in late June. One day we had warm but not hot, slightly cloudy weather with gentle breezes and the next day arrived 90 degree temperatures, full sun, and that famous Italian summer humidity.  Is there a better way to mark the arrival of summer than a day trip to the Italian coast ?  Not in my book.

The artist Kat Ring at work in Lerici. See her work at katring.com

My “welcome summer” day trip destination was Lerici, in the Italian region of Liguria, about an hour by car from where I live in Lucca. 

Lerici is blessed with an embarrassment of riches. First, location. Lerici sits at the southeastern edge of the Gulf of Poets (Golfo dei Poeti in Italian), so named for the famous poets who spent time there (think Byron, Mary and Percy Shelly, DH Lawrence). It could just as easily have been called the Bay of Artists. A favorite spot for painters, it is common to see easels set up along the bay with artists painting away.  On the day I visited, my favorite local artist from Lucca, Kat (Katarina) Ring, just happened to be painting on the promenade along the harbor.  I can’t wait to see what she created!

Across the bay from Lerici lies Portovenere with its stunning sea views and charming little village. To the northwest, at the top of the bay, lies La Spezia, a port city, transportation hub, and the jumping off place for visits to the Cinque Terre.  All of these places can be reached by commercial tour boat from the harbor in Lerici.

Lerici’s harbor as seen from the castle

The harbor here is small and protected, home to many small to medium-size boats. Sitting harbor side, relaxing in a shady spot, and watching the boats bob in the harbor, is a summer joy. 

A private beach in Lerici

Lerici is also home to long stretches of sandy beach.  As is common in Italian beach towns, there are public swim areas and private swim clubs where the price of admission includes a big umbrella, a clubhouse, and often a bar/restaurant. In both the public and private spaces, colorful umbrellas dot the sand, people (mostly Italians) sunbathe, swim, and play on the beach. This year, poles are set up on the public beaches to mark “social distancing” intervals and the umbrellas at the clubs are similarly spaced.  Closer to the town center the beach becomes rocky, with some parts reserved for local residents. 

Piazza Garibaldi, the town center.

Lerici also has a charming town center set around a fountain and ringed with restaurants and cafes. The church bells ring, the cafes buzz with activity, and the palm trees sway gently in the breeze off the bay. Just off the main piazza, and across the street from the harbor side promenade, is a pretty green space complete with benches and even a carousel for the little ones.

No summer visit to an Italian beach town is complete without two things : a meal of fresh seafood and a really good gelato. There are plenty of seafood spots in Piazza Garibaldi; we wandered into one at random (and I forgot to write down the name! ). My frito misto included the local specialty of fried anchovies, along with the traditional calamari, shrimp, and tiny little bites of octopus. Delicious! And the gelato snob in me was delighted to find really good gelato, too - a combination of mango, strawberry, and a surprisingly delicious lemon-basil.

And as if all this wasn’t enough, a Medieval castle stands guard on a rocky cliff high above the harbor.  Climb the steps through pretty narrow lanes up to the castle for stunning views out over the harbor (there is also access via elevator from the town up to the castle). Sometimes you’ll even find a special event, such as an art exhibit, inside. 

There is so much more to explore in Lerici, that a day trip simply can’t include it all. There are hiking trails to discover, a walk between Lerici and San Terenzio (the next equally charming town to the south), restaurants to try, and drives along narrow coastal roads. A return visit is a must! -post by Joanne