Planning Spring and Summer Travel

The end of February, the longest short month of the year, is in sight.  The last few days have been damp and chilly in Lucca. Today, there is a constant rain pouring down. That makes it perfect weather for staying inside and writing.   I always forget that 50 degrees in Lucca, with its deeply shaded medieval streets, cold stone buildings, and dampness, feels a lot colder than 50 degrees in the sunshine and dryness of New Mexico.  Add in some rain and the chill is inescapable.

And while the end of February may have us dreaming of warm weather, in Lucca we are still in scarfs and warm coats. But the desire to shrug them off and unpack a spring wardrobe is strong.  I wouldn’t mind hanging up my umbrella either.

A summer vision along the Ligurian coast.

With spring just around the corner, and summer not that far behind, I have been daydreaming of warm weather, breezes coming off the sea, lake vistas, blooming flowers, and drinks on sunny piazzas. 

The rainy days also have me looking through my cache of photos and daydreaming about past and future travel. It is time to get serious about planning some adventures for spring and early summer.

Living in Italy, the whole of Europe is within reach. The only problem is deciding where to go.

In the spirit of travel planning, today I will share photos of spring and summer European travel ideas. I hope they serve as inspiration as you daydream about your own spring and summer plans. They are definitely giving me some ideas.

I found that the daffodils were beautiful in the Netherlands the first week of April last year. It was a bit too early for tulips which were still a few weeks away.

Below (left to right) are some fun things to do in Spring within easy reach of Lucca: riding the funiculare up to Montecatini Alto, April in the Cinque Terre (before the summer crowds arrive), Montecarlo as seen from the old Fortezza, and Bagnone, a charming small town along the Magra river in the Lunigiana region.

The south of France is lovely in spring and early summer. This year I will avoid the Olympic crowds near Paris, but would welcome some time in the south. To that end, a Viking Cruise along the Rhône river from Lyon to Avignon is on my spring bucket list. Below: photos from the market in Uzès, a small village in the Languedoc region, and a wonderful place to visit.

Spain is another good spring and early summer destination. It is not a place I know well, but the time I spent in Barcelona a few years ago was memorable. I would definitely jump at the chance for a return trip. Some favorites, below: a panoramic view from the department store at Plaza de Catalunya, Park Guell, La Sagrada Familia Basilica, the Palau de la Musica

In the heat of summer, England and Scotland can offer a cooler get-away. Below top row: Chawton House and its gardens (perfect for fans of Jane Austen). Bottom row: the ruins of the chapel at Holyrood House and the famous Grayfriars Bobby Pub in Edinborough. Chilly even in August!

Back in Italy, a summer vacation at Lake Como brings hot temperatures and crowds, but gorgeous views and a chance to catch breezes while riding the boats that crisscross the water.

Lake Como is always a good place for spring and summer fun.

The Ligurian coast is a wonderful early summer destination - views, beaches, charming fishing villages, pesto, and fabulous seafood!

Camogli, a small fishing village on the Portofino peninsula.

Do you have other recommendations for spring and summer travel? Let us all know on the Two Parts Italy Facebook page.

Carousel, Marseille

Taking Tea

While visiting, and now living most of the year in, Italy I have learned to appreciate good coffee – a foamy morning cappuccino, a fragrant afternoon macchiato.  I have even learned to drink a straight espresso on occasion, providing it is laced with plenty of sugar.  

A breakfast tea in Florence at the hotel Morandi alla Crocetta

But, thanks to an Irish mother and grandmother, I was raised on tea. They firmly believed that there was no problem in life that was too big to be solved over a cup of tea, especially when served with sugar, milk, and a side of something sweet.

 They left a lasting legacy - I still love a good cup of hot tea.  It is the way I begin every morning.  When I travel I love to find a hotel with a good morning breakfast tea service. It starts the day off right. 

But “taking tea” is so much more than just a way to start the day.  Tea is an event! One thing to remember - it is nearly criminal to order tea without something sweet to go along with it because, as a British transplant to Lucca once told me, “without some cake your tea is just too wet”.   Words of wisdom!

While Italy does not have as much of a tea tradition as some places, there are several spots where, in addition to great coffee, pots of tea are served along with a pastry or a slice of cake. One such spot is Cafe Manon Lescaut in Piazza Cittadella. When my British friend Judy came to visit she was delighted with the afternoon tea there (pictured below).

These days one of my favorite places to take tea in Lucca is the H&G Coffee Lounge.  Don’t let the name fool you, it isn’t all about the coffee.  At H&G they also brew lovely pots of tea and describe tea as a “perfectly codified ritual”.  The loose leaf tea comes in a stoneware vessel alongside a little timer so that the brewing time is just right.  And they have a selection of tasty cakes to go with.  Best of all tea is served in a pretty room with comfy chairs and quiet music.  Unlike the Italian habit of quickly downing a coffee, here you can linger with your pot of tea. Sitting at H&G on a rainy afternoon, with a good book to read and a hot cup of tea, is a joy.

 One of my favorite things to do when I travel is to find a place, simple or elegant, to have tea.  I’ve taken tea in various US, Canadian, and European cities. Below are photos of some of my favorites. Top row: Lauduree in Paris (left and middle), Cassandras Cup Tea Room, near Jane Austen’s cottage in Chawton, England (right). Bottom row: Gilli Cafe in Florence, souvenirs from The Empress in Victoria, Canada, and (bottom right) the very elegant tea room at the Four Seasons Gresham Palace in Budapest. Each place had its own character and charm.

One of my all-time favorite teas was on board a Viking Ocean Cruise.  The ship had a bright and welcoming tea room that served a daily high tea.  Taking tea in their beautiful tea salon definitely made me feel spoiled! I could have gone every afternoon on the cruise, but oh the calories!

  When I return to Albuquerque to visit my family you can bet I will spend one afternoon at the Saint James Tea Room. They serve a high tea complete with savories, scones, lemon curd, and sweets.  The Saint James ranks right up there with the best tea rooms in Europe. The setting, with cozy alcoves, beautiful china, and a sweet gift shop, is part of the fun.

I am trying to introduce my granddaughters to the concept of tea.  I started with a simple home tea party a few years ago - complete with hats and Oreos. Tea manners were definitely in the infancy stage.

They’ve now graduated to the Saint James.  Let’s just say that dressing up for tea, using soft voices, and appropriate tea conversation is still a work in progress.  This was tea with giggles.

Do you have as favorite tea spot?  I’d love to see photos on the Two Parts Italy facebook page!

Tea and a Marionberry scone on the coast of Oregon

Paris in Winter Part Two: A Left Bank Neighborhood Walk

One of the best things to do in Paris is to simply wander the neighborhoods, each of which has its own unique atmosphere and history.  And while there are museums, churches, galleries, and famous sights to see in each neighborhood, there is also joy to be found in skipping all of those in favor of a slow amble, basically aimless, just to get a feel for an area.  And that is pretty much what I did on a day of wandering in Paris.

One of the many bridges across the Seine. This one connects the Île de la Cité with the Latin Quarter on the Left Bank.

On a visit of just a few days there are hard choices to be made. It simply isn’t possible to see all of Paris’s fascinating neighborhoods in a day or two.  On this trip the focus was the Left Bank – the Latin Quarter, St. Germain des Pres, and the area around Rue Cler.

 My day of wandering the Left Bank started near Notre Dame, crossing the Pont au Double to arrive on the Left Bank.   

At the end of the bridge lie the Bouquinistes, the iconic green stalls that line this part of the Seine. They are full of antique books, posters, and souvenirs.  Browsing these stalls feels like time travel, with magazine covers from many years ago and lots of old posters.  A stop at the Bouquinistes is an essential part of any Parisian experience.  

 From the Bouquinistes it is a short walk to Shakespeare and Company, the English language bookstore that has been in this location since 1951.  The shop began at an earlier location in 1919 with a pause only during WWII.  It is a Paris institution, attracting locals and visitors alike. I love the green of the building and matching green of the interesting fountain just in front. Imagine all the famous writers, and all the English language readers, who have passed through those doors! 

From there, a walk through the Latin Quarter evokes the spirit of an older Paris, before the renovations that brought wide boulevards and blocks of stately homes to other parts of the city. There are small cobblestoned alleys filled with cafes and bars, many host students from the nearby Sorbonne. There are markets, shops, and restaurants to be found along the winding streets.  

Passing by the churches and museums, we just strolled, soaking up the atmosphere of a unique neighborhood, visiting a Christmas market, peeking in windows, and stopping for lunch at a small cafe.

 After lunch, more walking. 

At the edge of the Latin Quarter, before entering the St. Germain des Prés district, the wide boulevards reappear near the Place Saint-Michel with its imposing monument. 

Build in 1860, the monument features a sculpture of Saint Michael the Archangel standing triumphantly over the devil.  Below, a fountain with water cascading down several steps to the level of the plaza.  On the day I visited, in mid-December, there was a wonderful Christmas market filling the square.

St. Germain des Prés, view to the magnificent altar

Next up, the St. Germain des Prés neighborhood.  This is a wonderful area to explore with its high-end shops, markets, galleries, and antique stores. This is where the Luxembourg gardens and Le Bon Marche department store are located.  St. Germain des Prés is also home to famous cafes such as Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore, once the haunts of writers and artists. Sip a coffee or a glass of wine outside under the awning and imagine Hemingway or Picasso sitting beside you. But not on this trip - it was much too cold to sit outside!

 The neighborhood gets its name from the Abbey of St. Germain des Prés.  The Abbey is more than 1000 years old.  The exterior is wonderful – with flying buttresses and a medieval bell tower.  And though my goal was to just wander, I couldn’t resist a chance to stop in to the abbey.  The interior seems to be several different churches in one due to many modifications over the years.  The long nave is flanked with arched columns and topped with a blue, star-filled ceiling.   There are sculptures and frescoes, colorful stained-glass windows, a beautiful choir space, side chapels, and candles flickering.  And, on this very cold day, there were grates in the floor blowing warm air into the church.  No surprise, visitors seemed to linger atop those grates!  

 We left the cathedral as the afternoon light was waning and the temperatures falling, the perfect time to hop on the batobus and return to the our hotel, just off Rue Cler. Rue Cler is in the 7th Arrondissement, where the Eiffel Tower is located. 

I love to stay in this part of Paris when I visit for many reasons – seeing the Eiffel tower all lit up at night as I walk through the neighborhood, the fabulous restaurants, cafes, and shops that line Rue Cler and the surrounding streets, the small and charming Hotel Champs du Mars, the graceful architecture of the buildings, and the walkability of the neighborhood. 

 Rue Cler itself is a pedestrian-mostly market street.  There are stalls and shops selling fresh produce and take-away meals, gorgeous French cheeses in all shapes and sizes, flowers, meats, fish, chocolates, pastries, crepes, ethnic foods.  There are also small cafes and restaurants perfect for a morning croissant or a meal.

 Nearby are streets full of elegant apartments with pretty balconies, small churches, shops, and fabulous restaurants.  And, just a short walk away, is the Eiffel Tower, the wonderful park that surrounds it, and a stop for the Batobus on the river. 

 It’s hard to talk about Paris without mentioning the food.  We ate most breakfasts and dinners in the Rue Cler neighborhood.  As we were celebrating my friend’s birthday, we decided to splurge on dinner at the classic restaurant La Fontaine de Mars on nearby Rue Saint-Dominique, between Rue Cler and the Eiffel Tower.  Definitely worth the splurge, everything was wonderful from the red and white checkered table cloths, to the friendly waiters, to a great wine selection, and fabulous food.  My dish of scallops on a bed of leeks with a butter vanilla sauce was spectacular. This was a birthday celebration to remember!   We also found a great wine bistro nearby, La Campanella Brasserie.  Best French Onion Soup ever!

 I am not sure when I will get back to Paris again but I definitely want to plan a return trip. I need a chance to explore the Right Bank neighborhoods. And I definitely need another bowl of onion soup!