Walking in the Italian Rain

The first time I came to Italy for an extended vacation, it rained nearly every day for four weeks. It was April and unseasonably cold and wet that year - and yet I loved it. I quickly learned to always carry an umbrella, to duck into a bar for a coffee when a sudden rain hit, to eat meals indoors during the hardest rains, and to take advantage of every break in the storm to be out and about. I often walked in the rain and enjoyed seeing the city reflected in puddles. Maybe it's because I live most of the year in a place that gets little moisture, but I seemed to thrive on the wet weather that year in Italy.

A group of tourists out and about despite the rain.  

 I've never had quite such a long rainy spell on my return visits. April is usually beautiful, cool to warm with only scattered showers. Last year's spring brought a perfect mix of warm and sunny days along with cooler days with a little rain. Only a few times did the rain last for even a half day. There was one morning though that was cloudy with several hours of steady rain - making it the perfect time for a walk through Lucca, ombrello (umbrella) in hand, enjoying the wet weather. 

Rainy days bring out lots of color as umbrellas brighten the dark skies. 

Bicycles, a common form of transportation, don't stop for the rain.  

And the flower market continues under ombrellones (big umbrellas).

Italians look stylish, even in raingear.

The city reflected in a wet street.  

Eventually the rain stopped, the skies turned blue, and the sun came out. I enjoyed the sun, but I'll look forward to the next rainy day, perhaps this month when I return to spend an Italian spring in Lucca.  -post by JB

Portovenere: Beauty Along the Italian Coast

About this time in February every year, I begin to tire of winter’s darkness and start to long for days with many more hours of sunlight – preferably Mediterranean sunlight. I think of the coastline along western Italy, of the small towns where houses perch on cliffsides along the Amalfi Coast in the south of Italy or the Italian Riviera in the north.

Portovenere in Liguria, Italy

Lately, I have been picturing Portovenere, which sits just south of the more tourist-attracting Cinque Terre villages of Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore. Portovenere draws visitors but not nearly as many as those five towns that dot the rugged Ligurian coast.

Spectacular views are to be had from Portovenere.

Like its more popular neighbors, Portovenere is home to bright buildings that mimic the colors of the area: bright yellows like the sun, dark oranges like the land. Its promontory kisses the Ligurian Sea, which flows into the Bay of Poets. Portovenere is one of three communities in the bay and which, along with the Cinque Terre villages, are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Lord Byron was one of the poets who loved this area and, as the dedication indicates, swam in the sea here.

Portovenere was originally known as Portus Veneris because of an ancient temple dedicated to Venus, the Roman goddess of love, beauty and fertility. It’s an apt name as Portovenere is charming, beautiful and romantic. The views it offers of the sea are expansive. On a visit last year, the rays of the warm Mediterranean sun sparkled like diamonds on the bright blue water. The atmosphere was one of pure relaxation.

Yet there are also historic sites to see in Portovenere, quaint shops to peruse and restaurants to visit for delicious dishes. The colorful narrow buildings that house apartments and businesses are part of the architectural wonder of the town: They essentially form a protective barrier between the harborfront and the rest of the village. The ruins of Doria Castle offer some of the most stunning vistas of the sea of any place along the Ligurian coast. The castle was built in 1161 for the prominent Doria family. It is an imposing structure even today.

The Doria Castle

Portovenere is an easy day trip from the Cinque Terre villages or from Lucca in Tuscany. On my most recent trip I rented a car and, along with my companions, drove from Lucca to Portovenere for a lovely lunch, an afternoon stroll, a visit to the castle, a gelato and a bit of shopping. Staying for a long weekend would be a perfect way to shake off winter and welcome spring.

-post by JG

"Stuck" in Italy

As much as I love to travel, there are times when it absolutely is not fun. Take, for instance, my most recent trip to Italy. The time spent in Italy was, as always, fantastic. The time spent getting home from Italy was not. The experience prompted me to think about the best tips I have for those times when travel plans go awry.

Travelers wait to learn whether their flight has been delayed or canceled at the Florence airport.

Here's what happened: I was scheduled to fly from Florence to Paris and then to the United States. Fog rolled into Tuscany, however, and my flight out of Florence was canceled, along with several other flights. I was unable to get on another flight that day so I spent an unexpected night in Florence and was re-booked for the next day.

It's hard to complain about having to spend an unexpected day in Florence.

Here’s what helped me cope (beside the fact I was "forced" to spend a day in Florence).

• Travel insurance. When I travel internationally, I always buy travel insurance. If you purchase soon after booking your trip, it’s cheaper. There are several online sites where you can get instant quotes. Depending on the coverage you choose, travel insurance can help cover the costs of delays, lost luggage, hospitalization and more.

• Airline status through frequent flier programs. If you are going to travel a lot, you will benefit from a frequent flier program (or two or three) - not only because you will earn miles that can be redeemed for flights or upgrades but also because you will earn “status.” Status equates to perks and one of those perks is a dedicated telephone line at the airline for when you need help. When my flight from Florence was canceled, I called that line and within 20 minutes had been rebooked for the following day. I didn’t have to stand in line with the hundreds of other people whose flights had been canceled, and I didn’t have to try to solve the problem on my own.

• Airline apps. I have the app for the airline I fly most frequently on my smartphone. That means I have my flight confirmation information at all times. The app also sends me updates when the flight is boarding or delayed. It lets me check in the day before. It includes contact phone numbers for the airline. And it even alerts me when my luggage has been loaded on the plane!

• Some advance planning. I always pack for the trip home hoping for no delays, but prepare for one just in case. That means having an extra set of underwear, a change of clothing, PJs, any needed medications, a good book, and other essentials with me for my flight home. Having these make a delay much easier.

• An attitude of gratitude. As much as I don’t like having my travel plans upended by weather or mechanical problems, it happens. I was “stuck” in Europe for an extra day twice last year. But being “stuck” in Europe is hardly a hardship. I am lucky to be able to travel. I try to remember that when delays happen.                          -post by JG

The view from the plane window once I was traveling after being delayed for a day in Italy.

Beneath the Walls of Lucca

When describing Lucca to people who have not yet had the good fortune to visit the city, le mura (the walls) are the first feature I mention. But underneath the walls is a whole other world.

Underneath the walls of Lucca.

The walls hold important historical significance, having originally been built as a defensive structure during the Renaissance (replacing the earlier Roman and Medieval walls). Today, they serve as a park and gathering spot for city dwellers and visitors and as a symbol of the city. They are also strikingly beautiful. Embracing the centro storico (historic old center), the walls were built with three portas or large entryways into the city (today there are six) and with 11 baluardi (baluardo in the singular, meaning a rampart or bastion). Each baluardo juts out from the narrower section of the wall and provides a direct line of sight from one to the next - a tactical advantage when defending against invaders. Today, the baluardi provide extended green spaces, filled with playgrounds, benches, and statues. At least, that's how it appears from the top of the walls. Underneath, however, is a  much more mysterious place.

Beneath Baluardo Santa Croce, an exit through the walls.

In Renaissance times, the portions of the bastions lying under the walls, cavernous spaces with vaulted ceilings, would have held soldiers, horses, and the materials needed to wage battle against an invading army. The soldiers needed a way into these spaces from the city as well as a way out on the far side of the wall - such a passageway through a bastion is called a sortita ( like the French word "sortie" or exit).  To prevent the invaders from using the sortita as a route into the city, they were designed as narrow, twisting passageways that could be easily defended. The passages were at one time mostly abandoned, but one by one, each sortita has been restored, and the result is breathtaking. 

The gate at this sortita leads to the spalti (green spaces) outside the walls.

In contrast to bright Tuscan vistas, fellow walkers, trees, statues and bicyclists - the typical sights when atop the walls - I am often alone when in a sortita or with only a few other people around. In the sortita it is quiet, cool, and dimly lit. The views are of intricate brick and stonework, arched passageways, massive wooden doors and iron gates and - sometimes - art. Yes, art. 

While these underground rooms and passageways are beautiful in their own right, the restored areas are now also used as spaces for exhibitions and events. On my most recent visit, tucked inside several of the sortite, I found paper sculptures from the Cartasia Biennale d’Arte 2016 exhibit. A pair of giant apes, multicolored spheres, head-in-the-sand ostriches, and the hoodie-covered head of a young man were among the paper art on display.

Yes, these colorful spheres are made of paper. According to one guide, they represent the cannon balls that were once stored here.

Cartasia Biennale d’Arte is a biennial exhibit of paper as an art form (paper production is a leading industry in the area around Lucca). The artists represent countries from around the world and their work is beautiful and infused with social and political meaning. During the exhibition, the paper pieces are displayed above ground throughout Lucca for two months. Afterward, the artwork is moved to the spaces under the walls, in part to protect the fragile paper construction from the elements. This unique “museum” is free and always open. The next exhibition will be held from July to September 2018, at which time the theme will be “Chaos and Silence.”  

The curves and stonework, shadows and light, all add to the beauty of the underground passageways.

Silence is the music of the sortita. The restoration work included adding lighting, which shows off the beauty of the inner walls, illuminates the way through the passages and casts shadows that add to the atmosphere of the underground space. Aside from viewing the artwork and coming across an occasional other visitor, I spent my time simply wandering the halls. Of course, just like the aboveground walls, a sortita has a utilitarian function: It provides another way for pedestrians to enter and exit the historical center of Lucca.

For me, the wall above and the sortita below are examples of something I appreciate about Italy: preservation of the past in a way that enhances the present.

-post by JG (with an assist from JB)

At the end of a passageway is a beautiful wooden door.

An Introduction to Verona

Travel poster from the 1930s

My idea of a perfect trip to Italy involves time spent in my home base of Lucca along with a visit to a place that is entirely new to me. On my latest trip, that place was Verona.

Verona, in the Veneto region of northern Italy, is less well known to visitors (at least to American visitors) than nearby Venice. The two cities have distinctly different characters and it's fun to experience both of them when visiting the Veneto region. Verona may not have Venice's famous canals, but it has a charm all its own and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Most of the historic old town is nestled into a bend of the Adige River, with some of the old city lying just across the river.

Historically, Verona was a Roman settlement. It has a long history of rule by various invaders (Visigoths, Longobards, Venetians, as well as by France and Austria), all of whom influenced Verona's art, architecture, and culture. Parts of the city were destroyed over time - by floods, earthquakes, conquering armies and, most recently, World War II bombs. Fortunately, many reconstructions  maintained much of the structure and character of the old city.  It is still possible to see everything from Roman ruins to Medieval and Renaissance structures. But Verona is not just a living history museum; it is a thriving city combining history, tradition, and modern life (including some high-end shopping).

With just three days in Verona I barely scratched the surface, but I did find much to love about this historic, thriving city.

Some highlights:

The fountain in Piazza Bra with the Roman arena in the background

Piazza Bra and Piazza delle Erbe are  beautiful spaces, full of activity and history. Piazza Bra is remarkable for the beautiful arches that mark its entrance and the well-preserved Roman Arena (amphitheater), which dominates the piazza. The piazza is lined with cafes and includes a green space that provides a perfect oasis of calm in the busy square.

Piazza Erbe is the place to feel the city's Medieval vibe. It is a thriving marketplace and the busy hub of the old city. Here you will find beautiful old buildings, the tall Torre Lamberto, and the ornate Palazzo Maffei.

While these piazze are the two main squares, there are many smaller ones that are also lovely. In fact, I think the piazze of Verona deserve a future post of their very own!

Busy Piazza Erbe

The city of Verona, viewed from an opening in the Ponte Scaligero. 

The River Adige flows through the heart of the city. Its bridges (ponti), including the Ponte Pietra and the Ponte Scaligero, have interesting histories, great beauty, and provide wonderful views of the city. The river also defines the city boundaries and helps make Verona a very walkable city. 

Verona is full of arches. Some are grand portas (doorways) through old city gates, others are small and mark entry into a piazza or a small vicolo (lane). Strung from them often are stunning light fixtures or cascading plants, which give the city a graceful air. 

There were more interesting churches than I could see in a short visit. The two I visited - the Chiesa del Duomo and the Cathedral of San Zeno - were architectural masterpieces filled with fascinating art and history.  . 

Cathedral of San Zeno, Verona

I can't talk about Verona without mentioning the fabulous dining. There is great variety in the dishes found here, and lots of seafood. My friends and I had several fabulous meals, including grilled shrimp, delicate pumpkin-filled ravioli, and a fabulous guanciale di manzo (beef cheek). The local white wines were similar to those of Bologna (slightly fizzy Chardonnay and Trebbiano) and there were full-bodied reds too (Amarone and Valpolicella). And of course there is great gelato to be enjoyed! 

Fine dining at Ristorante Torcolo, Verona. 

That's just a snapshot of my quick visit to Verona - there is so much more to see and experience that I can't wait to return!   -Post by JB