Parla Italiano?

Spending time in Lucca encourages me to speak Italian.

Parla Italiano? Do you speak Italian? I always hem and haw when asked that question. I often answer with, “Well, I do speak some, but not very well; I’m nowhere near fluent, I forget more words than I remember, I’m at a very beginning level." Always with the excuses! 

I often think of a conversation I overheard once in the small town of Barga. A visitor said to a Scottish woman who was living year-round in Italy, “So you must speak fluent Italian now." Her answer was something like this: “Oh dear no, I STUDY Italian, I don’t speak it." I can relate.

And yet, I do speak Italian, even if imperfectly and nowhere near fluently. I’ve made progress during the past few years of study; my comprehension has grown and my accent has improved. I am able to negotiate daily life – grocery shopping, purchasing train tickets, making reservations, etc.  I’ve come a long way from the first time I walked into my favorite panificio (bread bakery) in Lucca to buy some focaccia and totally froze – prompting the man behind the counter to gesture grandly and slowly say, “Vorrei” (I would like) … just to get me started. These days I have no trouble buying my focaccia, explaining in Italian that I want the morbida (soft) type rather than the rustica (thinner and crispier). Progress! All my growth is thanks to spending more time in Italy and studying at Lucca Italian School (though my errors and limitations are not the school's fault – they remain all my own).

Giacomo Puccini - I practice my Italian on him and he listens most patiently.

But I am still a hesitant speaker when outside my comfort zone of the vocabulary of everyday life. I find this is a common frustration for those of us trying to learn a new language. So what’s our problem? In large part it’s fear of making mistakes (and sounding foolish). It's also that the process of mentally translating from our native language into Italian makes us slow (and we might sound foolish), and that we forget words, even ones we just learned yesterday, and that makes us feel … foolish. Do you see a common theme here? Probably the biggest lesson I’ve learned is to stop worrying about sounding foolish and just get on with it – start speaking! Yes, there will be mistakes, and I’ll need to throw in an English word now and again when I can’t think of the Italian one, and I often have to find a round-about way to describe something using the words I know to compensate for the ones I don’t.  But, the majority of the time I can make myself understood. Plus, when I talk, I often catch my own mistakes and learn from that too.

Perhaps most important, the Italians I’ve met appreciate attempts to speak their language. When I explain that I am in Lucca to study Italian (sono qui per studiare la linqua), they are incredibly patient and every interaction in a shop, restaurant, bar or bookstore turns into a mini language lesson for me. As a bonus, I sometimes find myself giving directions, in Italian, to Italian tourists visiting Lucca. That makes my day!

I've tried several ways to keep up on speaking Italian when not in Italy. I’ve taken classes at home and participated in conversation groups. Both are helpful but sometimes a challenge to schedule. I study grammar and vocabulary on my own – each helps my comprehension, but neither encourages me to speak. I go to Italian movies and listen to Italian radio.

I’ve recently started trying some new things in an attempt to increase my comfort with speaking. First, I’m reading aloud. I realized that one reason I am timido ( timid) when I need to speak in Italian is that I am not used to hearing my own voice in Italian, which makes me overly attentive to every syllable. To get past this, I’m searching out articles and books in Italian and reading them a voce alto (out loud). This helps with the rhythm and flow of speech (and pronunciations) but mostly I hope it will make me stop getting caught up in worrying about how I sound.

For reading aloud,  I like the monthly Gazzetta articles in Italia magazine (a good use for all my back issues). Another good read-aloud source is the book “In Other Words," by Jhumpa Lahiri.  Both the magazine and the book provide Italian passages with English translations, so they also help with comprehension and vocabulary. 

I’m also trying to spend more time listening to spoken Italian. I particularly like News in Slow Italian, a weekly discussion of current events delivered at a slowed pace. Each episode comes with a written transcript, making it possible to read along with the broadcast, and a “click to translate” feature that helps build vocabulary. News in Slow Italian is available as an app in both a free version and an expanded paid version.

Then there are my morning shower conversations - where I talk out loud about what I plan to do that day, or what happened the day before. It's a bit like singing in the shower, all performance and no audience!

I’m back in Italy, and will take more classes at Lucca Italian School. Here’s hoping that my reading aloud and listening activities  help me transition more easily to speaking Italian.  -post by JMB

Sometimes a "Caprino" is Not a Little Goat

Sometimes a “caprino” is not a little goat, which is proof positive that knowing a little bit of a foreign language can sometimes lead you wildly astray.  Let me explain.

Shopping for groceries in one of the small, family-owned shops in Italy is part of living like a local. In Lucca, one of my  favorite shops is Il Mercatino. This is a small market run by the friendly team of Walter and Lucia. The shop is brimming with cheeses, meats, anchovies, marinated vegetables, olives, and a variety of prepared foods to take da porta via (to go). There are also local olive oils and wines, along with pastas, breads, smoked salmon, dairy products, and an assortment of other staples. I can stand outside and just gaze into the window for hours; better yet, I can go in and do some shopping!

Because I love this store so much, I frequent it regularly. When I enter the store the owners know exactly what I will buy before I say a word – a caprino. Perhaps two! So, what exactly is a caprino?  Directly translated, it would mean “little goat” (goat = capra, little goat = caprino). However, what I want is not a goat, but a small log of soft white cheese marinated in olive oil and spices. It is creamy and delicious, with a a bit of heat from chile flakes. It is especially good when spread on a fresh-from-the-oven piece of focaccia. When I first saw these cheese logs in the display case, I asked, “Come si chiama questi?” What are these called? The answer was “caprini."  Little goats.

A tray of caprini at Il Mercatino, Lucca, Italy.

Based on my imperfect grasp of the Italian language, I assumed this meant they were a type of goat cheese. After all, they were called caprini, so it seemed logical. I bought several caprini on that trip. When I arrived home to New Mexico, I set about trying to re-create that taste, which I had grown to love. I don’t know how many brands of goat cheese I tried paired with multiple spice and olive oil combinations, but I never came close to duplicating that fabulous flavor.

When I returned to Lucca the next year, I told the proprietors that when I was home in the United States, I dreamed of their caprini but no matter how hard I tried I couldn’t find a goat cheese as good or the right marinade. They explained that the caprini were not made with formaggio di capra (goat cheese) but rather formaggio di mucca (cow’s milk cheese). Cow’s milk? How did I misunderstand? It turns out that long ago this type of marinated cheese probably was made with goat’s milk and when production changed to the more readily available cow’s milk, the name just stayed the same. Caprino. Little Goat.

This spice mix is the magic ingredient when making caprini.

My complicated attempts at making the marinade were also way off.  No steeping of herbs in warmed olive oil needed, no grated lemon peel, no fresh garlic. They kindly showed me how to do it. Open the small package of cheese (very much like a log of cream cheese), put it in a dish, pour some good olive oil over it, and then sprinkle from the little packages of dried spices in the market. Done!  Because the shop owners are so kind, they sent me on my way with several of the spice packages to take home; another example of the generosity of Italians.

I’d like to say that I was able to exactly re-create the caprini at home, but our cow’s milk is just not the same as Italian cow’s milk and pure cream cheese didn’t quite do it. I did, however, come up with a pretty good version that combines mostly cream cheese with a bit of mild goat cheese sprinkled with the spices I carry home from Il Mercatino each time I visit and some good Lucchese olive oil.  It isn't Il Mercatino's caprini, but it helps carry me through the months at home. Of course, when I get back to Lucca this spring, I’ll head straight for Il Mercatino.

Here is the recipe for my version:

8 oz cream cheese, room temperature                                                                                                            3 oz mild goat cheese, room temperature                                                                                                        6 tablespoons good olive oil                                                                                                                             1 teaspoon aglio, olio, & peperoncino spice mix

Mix softened cheeses together until well blended.

Divide into 2 equal halves, place each on a large square of wax paper, folding wax paper to cover the cheese.   Roll each half of the cheese (using your hands over the paper) into a 6-inch log.  Transfer logs to a shallow dish.

Spoon 3 tablespoons of olive oil over each log.  Sprinkle each log with a rounded 1/4 - 1/2 teaspoon of the spice mix (more spice = more heat).  Let stand at cool room temperature for an hour before serving, spooning olive oil over cheese to keep it moist.  

May refrigerate up to 24 hours before serving; let stand at room temperature  hour before serving.  Spooning olive oil over cheese to keep it moist.

Serve with crackers or bread.

My homemade version of caprini. 

-post by JB

Walking in the Italian Rain

The first time I came to Italy for an extended vacation, it rained nearly every day for four weeks. It was April and unseasonably cold and wet that year - and yet I loved it. I quickly learned to always carry an umbrella, to duck into a bar for a coffee when a sudden rain hit, to eat meals indoors during the hardest rains, and to take advantage of every break in the storm to be out and about. I often walked in the rain and enjoyed seeing the city reflected in puddles. Maybe it's because I live most of the year in a place that gets little moisture, but I seemed to thrive on the wet weather that year in Italy.

A group of tourists out and about despite the rain.  

 I've never had quite such a long rainy spell on my return visits. April is usually beautiful, cool to warm with only scattered showers. Last year's spring brought a perfect mix of warm and sunny days along with cooler days with a little rain. Only a few times did the rain last for even a half day. There was one morning though that was cloudy with several hours of steady rain - making it the perfect time for a walk through Lucca, ombrello (umbrella) in hand, enjoying the wet weather. 

Rainy days bring out lots of color as umbrellas brighten the dark skies. 

Bicycles, a common form of transportation, don't stop for the rain.  

And the flower market continues under ombrellones (big umbrellas).

Italians look stylish, even in raingear.

The city reflected in a wet street.  

Eventually the rain stopped, the skies turned blue, and the sun came out. I enjoyed the sun, but I'll look forward to the next rainy day, perhaps this month when I return to spend an Italian spring in Lucca.  -post by JB

Portovenere: Beauty Along the Italian Coast

About this time in February every year, I begin to tire of winter’s darkness and start to long for days with many more hours of sunlight – preferably Mediterranean sunlight. I think of the coastline along western Italy, of the small towns where houses perch on cliffsides along the Amalfi Coast in the south of Italy or the Italian Riviera in the north.

Portovenere in Liguria, Italy

Lately, I have been picturing Portovenere, which sits just south of the more tourist-attracting Cinque Terre villages of Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore. Portovenere draws visitors but not nearly as many as those five towns that dot the rugged Ligurian coast.

Spectacular views are to be had from Portovenere.

Like its more popular neighbors, Portovenere is home to bright buildings that mimic the colors of the area: bright yellows like the sun, dark oranges like the land. Its promontory kisses the Ligurian Sea, which flows into the Bay of Poets. Portovenere is one of three communities in the bay and which, along with the Cinque Terre villages, are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Lord Byron was one of the poets who loved this area and, as the dedication indicates, swam in the sea here.

Portovenere was originally known as Portus Veneris because of an ancient temple dedicated to Venus, the Roman goddess of love, beauty and fertility. It’s an apt name as Portovenere is charming, beautiful and romantic. The views it offers of the sea are expansive. On a visit last year, the rays of the warm Mediterranean sun sparkled like diamonds on the bright blue water. The atmosphere was one of pure relaxation.

Yet there are also historic sites to see in Portovenere, quaint shops to peruse and restaurants to visit for delicious dishes. The colorful narrow buildings that house apartments and businesses are part of the architectural wonder of the town: They essentially form a protective barrier between the harborfront and the rest of the village. The ruins of Doria Castle offer some of the most stunning vistas of the sea of any place along the Ligurian coast. The castle was built in 1161 for the prominent Doria family. It is an imposing structure even today.

The Doria Castle

Portovenere is an easy day trip from the Cinque Terre villages or from Lucca in Tuscany. On my most recent trip I rented a car and, along with my companions, drove from Lucca to Portovenere for a lovely lunch, an afternoon stroll, a visit to the castle, a gelato and a bit of shopping. Staying for a long weekend would be a perfect way to shake off winter and welcome spring.

-post by JG

Insalata - Salad, Italian Style

Panzanella Salad, Osteria Cantine Bernardini, Lucca

Salads in Italy come in many varieties, including simple insalata verde (green salad, just a big bowl of lettuce), insalata mista (mixed salad of lettuce, carrots, tomato, perhaps some fennel), and meal-size insalatone (big salads filled with cheeses, meats, seafood, fruits, nuts). There are also delicious specialty salads such as caprese (tomato, fresh mozzarella with basil), panzanella (tomato, cucumber, red onion, basil and crumbled bread with olive oil and vinegar), and carciofi (fresh shaved artichokes with Parmesan and olive oil). All are delicious, especially when made with local fresh ingredients and eaten somewhere in Italy!

I enjoy each of these types of salads but, secondo me (in my opinion), the absolute best salad in Italy is an insalata di bresaola. Bresaola is not well known in the U.S. (at least not outside of cities with big Italian communities like Boston, New York, and San Francisco), especially compared to the more familiar Italian salumi (cold cut) products like prosciutto, salami, and mortadella. I first tasted bresaola on a trip to Rome many years ago and it's always one of the first things I want to eat when I return to Italy. And, because it is low-fat and low-carb, it is one Italian food that I never feel guilty about eating. 

Thinly sliced bresaola, with just a hint of marbeling.  

Bresaola is a beef cold cut, made from what we in the U.S. would call the top round cut. It is a specialty of the Valtellina, an alpine valley in northern Italy. Like prosciutto, bresaola is produced through a process of salting and drying. But, unlike prosciutto, the beef is trimmed of all visible fat before being rubbed with a salt and spice mixture. Also, the aging process is shorter, usually two to three months. The final product is deep red in color, soft (never leathery), delicate in texture, and fragrant. It's served very thinly sliced and is so very delicious. 

Bresaola is typically served as an antipasto, often as a salad with peppery arugula (but also good on crisp lettuce). It is topped with shaved Parmesan and dressed with olive oil and lemon juice or balsamic vinegar. I can easily make a  meal out of this salad, especially if I have some focaccia on the side. 

Bresaola filled with ricotta and mint ( Lucca Italian School, Speak and Cook Italian class) 

There are other ways to use bresaola as well. In a cooking class (at Lucca Italian School), I learned to fix it as an antipasto in which round slices were topped with a mixture of fresh ricotta mixed with chopped mint, folded over into half moon shapes, and drizzled with thick balsamic glaze. Heavenly!  Bresaola also goes well with a variety of meats and cheeses on an antipasto platter and makes a great panini (sandwich) on salty focaccia with some tomato and a soft cheese. Or just pick up a slice and eat it in your hand as a quick snack. It's hard for me to find at home, so I always eat plenty of it while I'm in Italy.

-post by JMB

Contacts:  

Lucca Italian School     Via dei Bacchettoni 25, 55100 Lucca, Italy.            Lucca Italian School.com

Santa Cristina Enoteca.  Via XX Settembre 10, 55100 Lucca, Italy   Santacristina.enoteca@gmail.com

Osteria Cantine Bernardini Via del Suffragio 7,  55100. Lucca, Italy.  Cantinebernardini.com