Cruising the Mediterranean Part 2: Ports of Call

August 20, 2018 by Joanne Bartram

Eight days, five ports of call along the coast of Spain, France, and Italy - that was the itinerary for my Quiet Season Iconic Western Mediterranean Cruise with Viking Ocean Cruises.

The Viking Star, docked in Monaco's busy harbor

Viking Iconic Western Mediterranean Ports of Call (note: some cruises stop in St. Tropez rather than Montpellier)

I chose this cruise because it took me to places I’d never been and had an interest in exploring, such as Barcelona where the cruise began. It also included places I was unlikely to visit on my own but thought would be fun to experience as part of a larger trip, Monte Carlo for example. Even better - the cruise ended in Italy, which was perfect as I was headed to Lucca afterward. Because it was off-season, or "quiet season" as Viking calls it, the price was lower than during the busy warmer months - a definite plus. The small ship (930 passengers) appealed to me as did the idea of a week of extreme spoiling at the hands of the Viking staff (see Part I of this post for a review of the ship, on-board amenities, and cuisine). I also had learned on previous trips that a cruise is even more fun with a group of friends, and I had several friends who wanted to do this particular itinerary. With all of these factors in mind, the Viking Iconic Western Mediterranean was an ideal choice. I booked the trip a year in advance, so I had plenty of time to research the destinations and daydream about the cruise. In the end, the experience was even better than my daydreams.

The cruise began in Barcelona*. Embarking around 1 p.m., just in time for lunch on board, I spent the first afternoon and evening exploring the ship, settling into to a spacious stateroom, enjoying the views out to the open sea, and meeting up with friends. After dinner on board, there was an evening performance by a Gypsy Flamenco troupe in the ship’s theater. The music and dancing were energetic, fun, and reflected a unique aspect of local culture. We all agreed it was a great start!

The following day, the first full day of the cruise, included activities in Barcelona as well as several optional excursions (optional excursions have an added cost). I had arrived in Barcelona a few days early, so I skipped the included “Panoramic Barcelona” tour and instead opted for a half-day trip to Montserrat* followed by a relaxing afternoon and evening on board.

There were a variety of other possible excursions offered on this day, including more in-depth explorations of Barcelona, with a focus on architecture (Gaudi!), art, or local crafts and culture.

The next day, I woke up in France - the port of Marseille to be exact. There is something wonderful about going to sleep in one place and waking up in a completely different country. I spent a busy morning in Marseille on the included tour of the Old Port area. After a brief introduction to Marseille, there was plenty of time for independent exploration and watching the activities and boats in the small harbor.

After lunch on board, it was off to Aix-en-Provence for an afternoon strolling the Cours Mirabeau and the surrounding small streets and back lanes. Aix is a lovely, graceful village with a tree-lined main street, pretty squares, lovely fountains, churches, interesting architecture, and shops full of local products - scented soaps, perfumes, bundles of lavender. I was immediately captivated by this beautiful village – definitely a place I’d like to return to for a longer stay.

Fountaine de la Rotonde, Aix-en-Provence

Cour Mirabeau, Aix-en-Provence

Clock Tower, Aix-en-Provence

After a chilly and damp, but wonderful, afternoon in Aix and an evening on board ship (oh, the dining options!) we cruised overnight toward St. Tropez. Off-season cruises always risk some less-than-ideal weather, and in St. Tropez the rain and winds created seas too rough to launch the tender boats that ferry passengers to shore. The captain decided to skip St. Tropez and head straight to Monaco where tender boats are not needed. Arriving in Monaco is breathtaking – a beautiful harbor filled with gorgeous yachts, buildings marching straight up the steep hillside and, on this day, a rare snowfall. My cabin had a perfect view of the harbor, perfect for watching the docking process from the balcony. I also enjoyed watching the cold, snowy weather from the comfort of the boat and took the opportunity to spend an afternoon mostly on board, taking high tea in the ship’s winter garden. Was I ever feeling spoiled!

Arriving in Monaco, the view from my stateroom balcony.  WOW ! — Arriving in Monaco, the view from my stateroom balcony. WOW !

The next day, still chilly but without the wind or snow, was perfect for exploring Monaco. The included tour took us through the beautiful seaside garden, past the Oceanographic Museum, and to the Prince's Palace just in time for the changing of the guard (once daily at 11:55 a.m.). After that we spent an afternoon on our own exploring this small but very interesting town, with plenty of time to visit the museum, wander the area around the Prince's Palace, return to the garden, or shop. There were a variety of optional excursions, including to the casino and even a coastal helicopter ride. I had not expected to like Monaco so much – I had pictured just glitzy casinos, jewels, and expensive shopping – and I was happy to find so much simple beauty here in walks along the seaside cliffs, views of both the large and smaller harbors, and the gardens.

Oceanographic Museum, Monaco

Coastal Garden, Monaco

Sea view, Monaco

I went to sleep that night knowing that I would wake up the next morning in Italy, the final cruise destination. The port of call in Italy was Livorno, where the ship remained for two days Livorno is a big port, popular with cruise lines for its proximity to Florence and Pisa and half-day visits to both cities were included excursions.

Along a canal in the "Little Venice" area of Livorno

Optional excursions included themed visits in these cities (for example, focused on art or architecture) as well as trips to the Tuscan countryside for cooking or wine tasting, to the Carrera marble quarries, to Torre del Lago where Puccini lived and composed, and to San Gimignano, the famous city of towers. I choose to skip the included tours in favor of a full day visit to San Gimignano* with a wine tasting lunch on a family-run agriturismo. The drive to San Gimignano, through a snow-covered Tuscany, was a highlight for me. The second day in port I explored Livorno on my own and spent time on board ship relaxing by the pool and enjoying a final afternoon tea. Overnight we sailed to Civitavecchia, near Rome, where the cruise ended. And then I was off to the train station and headed to my stay in Lucca.

I enjoyed this off-season cruise. The weather was sometimes cold and wet, but with warm clothing and an umbrella that didn’t prevent enjoying every port and excursion. There were no crowds, a real benefit of low season travel. The lower quiet season pricing made this an affordable adventure. The itinerary and included excursions were well chosen by Viking, the guides in each place were enthusiastic and knowledgeable locals, and the optional excursions were reasonably priced (my optional excursions cost a total of $287 and included Montserrat, San Gimignano, and Aix-en-Provence) The on-board experience was amazing. I continue to be a big fan of Viking Cruises for their service, value, amenities, and thoughtful itineraries.

With a $200 past passenger discount awaiting me, the only question now is where to go next!

-post by JMB

Note: I was a paying passenger on this cruise and am not affiliated with Viking Cruises.

* More about San Gimignano, Montserrat, and Barcelona can be found in these previous posts :

https://www.twopartsitaly.com/blog/2018/4/3/san-gimignano-a-medieval-town-of-towers

https://www.twopartsitaly.com/blog/2018/3/6/montserrat-spain

https://www.twopartsitaly.com/blog/2018/2/23/barcelona

Cruising the Mediterranean with Viking Ocean Cruises Part 1: The Ship

August 13, 2018 by Joanne Bartram

The Viking Star, docked in Livorno, Italy

The Viking Star, one of Viking’s fleet of ocean-going vessels, was the perfect ship for my first ocean cruise experience. The Star is relatively small compared to many cruise ships, accommodating just 930 passengers. It was the lure of this small ship experience, along with my previous positive experiences with Viking river cruises, that convinced me to give an ocean cruise a try. The experience did not disappoint!

Monaco - one of many exciting ports of call on the itinerary.

What delighted me most about the cruise? It would be hard to pick one single thing. But the combination of a gorgeous small ship, an itinerary that took me to new places and offered exciting excursions in each, the chance to go “off season” when there were smaller crowds, the adult vibe, and Viking’s outstanding amenities and service all added up to make this cruise memorable. Trying to cover everything about the cruise in one post would make for a very long read, so I’ll start with the ship and follow up in a second post about the itinerary, ports, and excursions.

First, the ship. The Viking Star is floating luxury. Sleek and modern, its beautifully appointed common areas, from lounges to libraries to bars, are visually appealing and offer comfortable and relaxing spaces as well as lively venues for entertainment and socializing.

One of many comfortable and quiet public spaces on the Viking Star

Sections of the Bayeux tapestry line the staircase landings

The attention put into selecting art, which is displayed throughout the ship as well as on a huge ever-changing screen in the two-story atrium of the Viking living room (decks 1 and 2), is impressive. Even the staircases have interesting art - a reproduction of the Bayeux Tapestry. This provided a good incentive to take the stairs - important considering the availability of excellent food onboard! An audio guide (downloadable onto an iPhone) provided explanations of the art on display. There are also displays of Viking artifacts - from helmets to old iron keys to reproductions of historic Viking ships. Discovering the many art pieces tucked away throughout the ship was part of the fun - a treasure hunt at sea.

Main pool, shown with roof closed  (photo from Viking website) — Main pool, shown with roof closed (photo from Viking website)

Explorer's Lounge with panoramic views (photo from Viking website)

The main pool and hot tub, with retractable roof (roof closed during this colder weather, off-season itinerary), was surrounded by chaise lounges - some facing the pool and others facing outward with views of the sea or port. This was a popular area not just for swimming and soaking, but also for reading, napping, and casual dining at the pool bar. At night, it made a good movie venue (complete with popcorn).

Next door to the pool is the winter garden with its intricate wooden ceiling. This bright and elegant space made the perfect setting for afternoon high tea (served daily from 4 to 5 p.m.). The shared tables also encouraged new friendships and interesting conversations. Most enjoyable was the tea I shared with an 18-year-old man (18 is the minimum age for passengers) and his grandmother. They were delightful tea companions and I enjoyed being part of celebrating his birthday and first trip to Europe. They already have me thinking about how many years it is until my oldest grandchild will be ready for such an adventure.

My favorite “hang-out” spot had to be the two-story Explorer’s lounge at the front of the ship (deck 7). Its comfortable seating, casual food service at Mamsen’s (Norwegian-style waffles, soups, sandwiches, sweets), full bar, and expansive views (especially from the upper story) provided a less hectic spot for breakfast or lunch and a perfect get-away in the afternoons. I even found a quiet spot to do some writing.

The stateroom was also a treat. A last-minute upgrade offer to a “Penthouse Veranda” cabin meant extra space at a reasonable cost, including a seating area with sofa, chair, desk, and mini-fridge complete with a bottle of champagne. There was also a private veranda (every stateroom has one). The rooms were designed to maximize storage while maintaining a beautiful environment. The bathrooms are marvels of efficiency and who doesn't love heated bathroom floors?

Also on board are a gift shop and jewelry shop, as well as a spa, hair and nail salon. Appointments are definitely required for the spa. I was too busy exploring the ship and the various ports to shop or schedule a massage so I didn't get a chance to try these out - something to look forward to on a future cruise! I did get to experience the theater, which is the site of live entertainment (a fabulous group of Catalan gypsy musicians and dancers in Barcelona), movies, TED talks, art and port talks, and daily excursion information.

I can’t forget to mention the onboard dining. Wow! The Restaurant (largest restaurant on board, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, no reservations needed) was elegant but not too formal. Dress code is "casual elegant" (no jeans or shorts; dresses or slacks and nice tops for women and collared shirts for men). It is large but organized in a way to feel cozy and quiet, making conversation easy. The menu had "classics" available every night (steak, chicken, salmon) as well as nightly specials, many themed to the port of the day (bouillabaisse in Marseille, tapas in Barcelona, risotto in Livorno). There were always meat, fish, and vegetarian options and several choices of appetizer, main dish, and dessert. Pictured below are a few samples: a shrimp cocktail appetizer, a tender roast lamb with flageolets, and a wonder phyllo-wrapped Brie with a cranberry sauce.

And, in case you are wondering about dessert options, all I can say is that pictures won't do them justice. I think everyone in my party of four agreed that the dessert prize went to the warm chocolate soufflé with Bailey's sauce. But we didn't complain about the chocolate mousse or the berry crostata, all three pictured below.

As for the waitstaff (from all over the world), well, let’s just say my group bonded immediately with the men working at table 104 in The Restaurant. They were amazing - personable, fun, and knowledgeable about the food and wine. And did we ever laugh with them! We looked forward to dinner every night half because the food was amazing and half because we enjoyed the staff so much. How can you not love someone who, when you order a simple piece of cake, tells you that "it would be much better with a scoop of ice cream alongside?" We had reservations one night at Manfredi’s Italian (one of a couple of reservation-required specialty dining venues on board). The food at Manfredi's was good but, truth be told, we missed “our guys” and the wider variety of choices in the main restaurant.

Norwegian-style waffles for breakfast at the World Cafe (also in Mamsen's)

There is also casual dining (breakfast, lunch, dinner) at the World Cafe. The service is cafeteria style but this was no ordinary cafeteria. There are multiple stations serving baked goods, salads, pastas, meat dishes, fish, local specialties, and fresh chilled shrimp and crab legs. There is even a dinner time sushi bar. The food was great and often included many of the same dishes as the main restaurant but in a more casual atmosphere. The wines served were quite good too (included at lunch and dinner).

A "two-bite" plum tart from the bakery in the World Cafe aboard the Viking Star

The World Cafe turned out to be my favorite place for breakfast and lunch as the choices were varied, the setting comfortable and unfussy, and - oh, did I mention the gelato bar and dessert counter? Luckily the desserts came in miniature portions. Having just one was practically guilt free.

My overall impression of the Viking Star is that it is a beautiful, well-appointed ship with luxury amenities, an upscale but unfussy vibe, outstanding staff and service, and top-notch dining. The cruise was a great value as all meals (with wine or beer) were included along with scheduled excursions in each port. More about the itinerary, optional excursions, and ports of call in an upcoming post.

-post by JMB

A pilot boat guides us out of port and into the open waters of the Mediterranean Sea.

A Ligurian Pasta

August 06, 2018 by Joanne Bartram in Cooking, food, Italy

A market in Porto Venere, Liguria, selling pesto and trofie along with other local specialties

How many pasta shapes can you name? Spaghetti, linguine, tagliatelle, fettucine, farfalle, pici, pappardelle, fusilli, lasagna, and orzo all come to mind - and those are just some of the many solid pasta forms. In Italy, there is a seemingly endless variety of shapes and sizes of pasta. One shape that is found in northern Italy, especially in Liguria, is trofie. I was less familiar with this type of pasta, but recently encountered it at a market in Porto Venere. When I saw it again a few days later in a restaurant in Lucca I couldn't pass up the opportunity to try it.

Trofie is a simple eggless pasta, made with just three ingredients - flour, salt, and water. After mixing, a little kneading, and a short rest, the dough is rolled into long thin strands (as if making pici) and then cut into smaller pieces. It's the shaping of these small bits of dough that is key to making trofie. Each small piece is rolled between the palms of the hand in a downward motion, allowing them to fall off the end of the hands (picture a good Ligurian cook doing this in one very quick motion). This gives them their characteristic shape - short thin twists of pasta, a bit thicker in the middle and tapered at the ends.

Trofie are best when fatto a mano (made by hand). The commercial varieties have a more structured twist to them, and are more dense than the lighter, roughly shaped hand-rolled ones.

In Liguria, it is typical to top trofie with pesto (another local Ligurian specialty). In Lucca, my lunch was trofie with tonno (tuna), fiori di zucca (squash blossoms), pomodoro (tomato) and pan grattato (toasted bread crumbs) .

It was a light and tasty dish, perfect with a glass of local vino bianco di Montecarlo (white wine from the Montecarlo region). Delizioso!

I'm looking forward to making some trofie at home in New Mexico - I think my grandchildren will enjoy trying to hand shape them with me. -post by JMB

A Stylish Italian Wedding

July 30, 2018 by Joanne Bartram in Italy, Italy travel, Lucca, Italian culture

I marvel at the style that Italians have, that timeless "bella figura." Even as day-to-day style has become increasingly casual over the past decade or two, Italians still achieve (seemingly effortlessly) a look that is stylish and classic. And when an occasion calls for dressing up, well, no one does it better. This is true throughout Italy - from grand cities to smaller towns.

This style was certainly evident at the matrimonio (wedding) that I saw in Italy recently. The large crowd, gathered outside the Church of San Michele in Lucca, was elegant and beautifully dressed. And oh - those hats! The hats were a surprise to me, as hats are something I always associated with the British, but this group of Italian women wore their hats with great style - the hats were as varied as they were beautiful.

The men were just as well dressed, especially the wedding party in gray pinstripped pants and jackets with tails. Even the young boys were fashionable!

And of course the bride was stunning and the groom handsome. This is, after all, Italy!

-post by JMB

Hula dancers at the luau at Tahiti Nui restaurant in Hanalei on the Hawaiian island of Kauai.

A Luau to Remember

July 23, 2018 by Judy Giannnettino

While many people may disagree, I believe there are some so-called touristy experiences a traveler ought to do. See Venice by gondola, for instance. Or climb at least part of the Great Wall in China. I’ve done both of those and don’t regret either. The magic of Venice was best felt from the water. The Great Wall’s testament to the fortitude of a nation was best understood from the uneven, steep steps of the wall built more than 2,000 years ago.

So it’s no wonder I wanted to attend a luau when I visited Hawaii. I found the experience not only entertaining, but also educational and, thanks to the family putting on the show, not at all touristy. Instead, the luau I experienced in Kauai at the famous Tahiti Nui restaurant in Hanalei was steeped in culture and tradition and intended to help visitors better understand the place and the people of the area.

There are many variations of the dance known as the hula.

If you’ve seen the movie “The Descendants,” Tahiti Nui is the restaurant where George Clooney’s character meets up with his cousin (played by Beau Bridges). The luau is held in a banquet room at the restaurant once a week and its indoor location makes for an intimate environment with seating close to the performers.

The pig for a luau is unwrapped after cooking in a pit called an imu.

The luau begins with a short walk outside to where the pig is being cooked in a traditional underground pit. The pig is taken out of the imu (pit) and its wrappings of banana leaves and burlap are removed while visitors hear about the work and long hours involved in the cooking process. Visitors then get to taste the succulent pork, still steaming hot. Delicious!

Some hulas are more traditional than others.

Back inside, dinner is served buffet style with Mai Tais, rice, the pork and more. Seating is family style so you can make new friends while enjoying the meal.

Then, the show begins. The importance of “Aloha” is shared (see my earlier post on this multidimensional word) and the history of the hula is told while dancers perform. We learned about hula schools and competitions, how the hand motions of the dance represent words in the songs being sung, and the rigorous training needed to properly perform what is a complex and beautiful form of art. A more traditional hula kicked off the show and the dramatic fire dance ended it. Touristy or not, it’s an experience I highly recommend.

-post by JG