A December Visit to Florence

The weeks leading up to Christmas are always busy – this year seems more so than ever. There have been holiday lunches and dinners, aperitivo evenings, fancy teas, holiday markets, even Santas arriving on Vespas. Many visitors have arrived in the last few weeks, perfect timing to see Lucca all dressed up for Christmas and for us to enjoy some of the season together.

Amid all the December happenings, I managed to fit in a few days in Florence. Florence is always a treat at Christma and this year was extra special as I was there with a friend who was experiencing her first holiday season in Italy.

We only had two days in the city and a short list of “must do” things. Mostly, we wanted to walk through the city enjoying the holiday lights, gaze at the window and shop decorations, have a couple of good meals, and do a little holiday shopping. We also had tickets to visit the Fra Angelico exhibit at Palazzo Strozzi - it was outstanding and good kick-off to our weekend.

Walking through town, the windows were fascinating. From upscale stores like Prada to pastry shops and small local merchants, the variety of displays made for a lot of stop and go and oohs and ahhs when walking through town. One of my favorites was the edible window display at Caffè Gilli, below.

And the Christmas trees! The one at the Duomo, set against the back drop of the the Cathedral and the Baptistery, was simple and beautiful. Different, but just as wonderful, was the one in Piazza Repubblica, which happened to be just outside the Hotel Pendini where we were staying. Located beside the carousel, it was even better at night when the tree’s ever changing colors were on full display.

Stopping at Gilli for an evening aperitivo was the perfect spot for viewing all the night-time happenings in Piazza Repubblica, including the fun carousel and the illuminations which danced across the facade of the Rinascente department store.

A morning visit to the annual Christmas Market, in the piazza in front of Santa Croce Church, was a must do. The market is German style but with an international personality in both the products and foods. Booths from a variety of countries including Poland, Hungary, Germany, England, and Scotland offered everything from holiday décor and ornaments to warm scarves and mittens to classic foods. And while the scent of all those foods was tempting, we saved our appetites for an after-market Sunday lunch at nearby Trattoria Cibrèo.

One of my favorites places to visit at this time of year is the Farmacia Santa Maria Novella. This historic pharmacy, established some 800 years ago by Dominican Friars, once was known for its medicinal herbs and potions. It was once the place to get anti-plague remedies. Today, no longer run by Friars, it still sells herbal products and potions along with wonderful lotions, soaps, perfumes, potpourri, liquors, and candles. The setting is historic, full of old wooden cabinets, marble floors, and elegant decor. It also houses the small chapel of San Nicolò with its beautiful frescoes. At this time of year, the Christmas decorations are gorgeous. It is a wonderful place to shop for gifts.

When the sun goes down, the show really begins. First are the lighted street decorations which vary from one small neighborhood to the next. The area around Palazzo Strozzi and Via Tornabuoni are especially bright and shiny.

The beginning of the video projected on the Palazzo Vecchio

And then there was the number one thing that we came to see – the Florence Lights Up Festival, also known at F-Lights Up.

This annual event involves a series of moving images projected onto some of Florence’s iconic structures.

There were too many to see in just a couple of nights, but the two we managed were fantastic. The first was at the Palazzo Vecchio where the moving images were inspired by Florentine arts and craftmanship. (video on two_parts_italy Instagram )

The second was a projection on the Ponte Vecchio, a series of images which turned the whole span of the bridge into art. Standing along the river to watch the display was mesmerizing. The images were simply amazing and uniquely Florentine! The displays continue until January 6th, when the holiday season officially ends. ( video at two_parts_italy on Instagram )

Buon Natale and Buone Feste to all !