Lucca by Candlelight, The Luminaria of Santa Croce

The start of theSanta Croce procession always includes a huge floral cross and the traditional banner with the image of the Volto Santo

It’s exciting to see a place or an event for the first time, and often just once is enough to satisfy a curiosity or longing for an experience. When I first moved to Lucca I believed that going “once around the sun” here would allow me to experience all the seasons, the traditional festivals, the holidays, and the special events that would take place throughout a year. And that a year would be enough to satisfy my living in Lucca experience. Silly me. I quickly realized that it would take much longer (and perhaps forever) for me get my fill of Lucca.

Over time, I’ve learned that some of the best things are the events that are experienced on repeat - events and celebrations that I look forward to from year to year. Whether it is the wisteria that bloom in spring, April’s Santa Zita Festival, a late summer Medieval event, the fall garden show, or the annual lighting of the Christmas tree, the anticipation of these familiar events never fails to excite me. They mark the rhythm of life in Lucca.

The month of September brings one of Lucca’s most important events, the Luminaria of Santa Croce. There is something magical about seeing the Medieval streets of Lucca awash in candlelight, hearing the chanting of prayers, watching the large floral cross that is at the head of each year’s procession, and seeing the devotion of so many people holding candles are they walk the streets of Lucca. It is a moving and unique event.

The people lining the procession taking photos on cell phones reminds me that this is a present-day celebration and yet the feel is ancient, historic. For many people it is the most important religious ceremony of the year. For others it is a tradition and a cultural event.

Dignitaries and priests carrying the processional lanterns first gather on the steps in front of the Cathedral of San Frediano, where prayers begin the solemn procession. A large cross, made entirely of flowers, and a banner with the image of the Volto Santo are at the head of the procession. A variety of civic groups participate in the procession, each carrying a banner to show where they are from.

The restored Volto Santo (Holy Face) crucifix, with gold vestments only seen during the September event (photo from the internet)

This year was particularly important because after two years of restoration the Volto Santo crucifix, which is the reason for the festival, is finally back in place in the Cathedral of San Martino and dressed in his gold vestments.

Regardless of one’s beliefs, the luminaria procession is a hallmark of a Lucchese September. And for me, it is one of my can’t-miss, go every year, take hundreds of photos, events. Once was definitely not enough for me! As September draws to a close, it is my hope that I will still be here in Lucca to see next year’s procession.

For anyone who would like to come to Lucca for the 2027 version of the Santa Croce Festival, now is the time to begin planning. It is not too early to reserve housing for this popular event. And mid-September is a great time to visit Italy.

For more on the history of this event see https://www.twopartsitaly.com/blog/2017/9/16/the-legend-of-the-volto-santo-holy-face