February into March
Clear blue skies and orange trees, beautiful a this time of year
The week when February turns into early March is a fickle one here in Lucca. Some days are downright gloomy with gray skies, rain, and wind. If you’re fortunate enough to have a fireplace (I am not, I admit to a bit of envy when I see smoke billowing out of a chimney), then a warm fire, a cup of coffee, and a book are just the thing. Then, suddenly, a day of blue skies and sunshine comes along, teasing the notion of spring, only to be followed by a chilly day with clouds but no rain.
Even within the same day, chilly mornings still require the radiator to be turned on, while warmer afternoons encourage the opening of windows. One hardly knows how to dress – winter coat or light jacket? Warmest scarf or lighter weight one? In Italy it is most definitely still scarf season – after all, no Italian wants to get that hit of cold air on the throat which surely would lead to illness.
Should I throw my gloves in my purse when going out in the evening ? Chissa! (who knows). All I know is that I am not yet packing away my winter clothing just yet.
The view of Palazzo Pfanner from Lucca’s wall, is always a welcome sight on my return to Lucca.
The nice thing about this time of year is that, unless it is rainy, it’s perfect weather for a walk on the walls surrounding the city center. The trees are still mostly bare, with just the tiniest leaf buds, but the wildflowers are beginning to bloom. The mountains are visible in the distance through the bare trees. Mothers walk (or jog) the wall with babies in strollers, dogs explore the new foliage, little kids ride bikes and so do adults.
Since I’ve just returned to Lucca after 6 weeks away, I enjoy walking through town and along the walls to discover what is new or for the reassurance that some things are unchanged.
In town, the Magnolia trees burst into bloom last week, a recurring yearly event that is the first hint of spring. They only last a couple of weeks (less is the weather is awful) and seeing them against a blue sky is nature’s artistry at its best. We were lucky to have such a day last week!
Magnolias in bloom along Corso Garibaldi in Lucca, last week of February, 2026
Flowering bulbs and spring herbs have appeared in the flower shops, and bright purple artichokes fill baskets at the ortofrutta (green grocers).
On the walls is a new art piece - La Luna Innamorata (The Moon in Love). Colorful and larger than life, the scupture is part of a wellness and health initiative of the group Amici del Cuore. Finding new art installations in “real” spaces around town, where they are accessible to all, is one of my favorite things in Lucca.
The Boldini exhibit will be in town through early June
Early March is also the time to anticipate what is to come. Art exhibitions are ongoing, perfect indoor activities to be enjoyed on a not-so-perfect day. Soon, it will be time for the Camellia Festival. Later in the spring we’ll have the annual spring garden show followed by a classical music festival in May.
For me, March means that I will head to Trieste next week. Trieste lies in the region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, one of Italy’s 5 “home rule” regions. It is a unique area, part of Italy and yet more autonomous, with a location closer to Slovenia than to Rome. I am looking forward to spending two weeks there attending an intensive language program and exploring the region. I have been told to be prepared for sea views, windy weather, and great cafes with outstanding coffee. Sounds perfect. I’ll let you know!