And Then Came Giotto

I am not an art historian; far from it.  I don’t even claim to be a serious student of art.  And yet, it is impossible to live in Italy and not develop a profound appreciation for art. There are museums full of ancient art – Etruscan and Roman – displaying artifacts from those eras, from tiny jewelry pieces to funeral urns, mosaics, and classic statuary.  And though there were also Roman painters, the examples that have survived are relatively few.  In contrast, paintings from the late Medieval (Middle Age) and Renaissance periods fill Italian churches and museums.  The differences between the two eras can be appreciated by even an untrained observer like myself.

Madonna and Child ca. 1300 artist: Duccio. (photo from Wikimedia Commons Public Domain). An example of painting from the Medieval era.

Prior to the Renaissance, Medieval paintings were characterized by religious subjects, often a single figure filling the center of a painting.  The figures were flat and the faces often expressionless.  The human form was not natural looking or sensuous.  These were icons, not neighbors.

Backgrounds and perspective were not very important components of medieval painting.  And all that gold!  Gold shows up everywhere in Italian art of the middle ages.  In backgrounds, in halos, in elaborate detailing.  Imagine how that gold appeared – as the richness of God, the divine light – and also, perhaps, an symbol of the wealth of the patron or church who commissioned the work.

In contrast, paintings from the Renaissance era (1400 – 1600 AD) make wonderful use of perspective and often place subjects in natural settings.  The figures are realistic, their human-ness evident.  The clothing drapes and swirls, the faces show a full range of emotions.  The subjects are still largely religious, though portraits were also painted, usually for wealthy patrons (think of Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, painted in 1503).  The names of Renaissance artists are familiar: Donatello, Da Vinci, Michelangelo, and Raphael being perhaps the most widely known artists from the 1400’s.

An unfinished Da Vinci portrait painted between 1500 - 1505. La Scapigliata (the word scapigliata refers to her disheveled hair) hangs in the National Museum in Parma, Italy. The difference between this Renaissance painting and earlier Medieval ones is pretty clear!

And in between the two periods, the Medieval and the Renaissance, came Giotto di Bondone (1267-1337). Giotto was that rare artist who was appreciated, even famous, during his lifetime. He even merited a mention by his contemporary Dante in The Divine Comedy. 

 Giotto revolutionized Italian art, creating life-like figures and placing them in more natural settings. Giotto’s figures show a full range of emotions through their facial expressions. No flat, lifeless saints and madonnas here!   Giotto’s scenes are populated by people who look like the neighbors down the street (at least what the neighbors would have looked like in 1300).  His men are placed in realistic poses and settings, his ladies have (gasp!) breasts over which their garments drape. His angels fly, his flames flicker.  And while the saints still have halos of gold, their clothing is colorful and the background is the most heavenly blue. 

Panel # 34. Weeping over the Body of Christ. Scovegni Chapel.

Sadly, much of Giotto’s work has been destroyed, by time and by fire.  Of the works that remain, the Scrovegni Chapel in Padova is Giotto’s capolavoro (masterpiece). A chance to see the frescoes there was the main reason for my trip to Padova last fall. The church is small and intimate, built as a private chapel for the Scrovegni Family.  The frescoes are in wonderful condition, the figures beautiful, and the colors spectacular.

Panel #35. The Resurrection

The frescoes wrap around the chapel, in a three-tiered series of panels, telling stories from the life of Joachim and Anne, Mary, and Christ. The scenes are full of life, there is movement and emotion, the figures pull you in to their story. Through it all Giotto proves to be not just an accomplished artist but a master storyteller as well.

Panels #8 (Presentation of the Virgin), 21 (Baptism of Jesus), and 33 Crucifixion (top to bottom)

The far end of the chapel has the largest scene - the Last Judgement. It is stunning in both its beauty and its brutality. 

To the left, heaven. To the right, a hell that is terrifying!

 Look closely and you will find Enrico Scrovegni, offering up the chapel in atonement for the sin of usary (the Scrovegni family were money lenders). This is no doubt an attempt to avoid Giotto’s graphic depiction of hell.

 Aside from bible tales, the allegories of Virtues and Vices are fascinating. Simplistic in design and color compared with the rest of the frescoes, without much adornment, the contrasting figures are as relevant and thought-provoking today as when painted in the early 1300’s.  Pictured below (left to right): Hope, Envy, Justice, Despair.

The Scrovegni chapel is simply astonishing (my photos can’t capture its majesty).  One does not have to be an art historian, a religious scholar, or even a believer, to appreciate Giotto’s artistic brilliance and the power of these frescoes.  And for anyone with an interest in art, or simply in beauty, the Scrovegni Chapel in Padova is an experience not to be missed.

Detail from panel #33. The Crucifixion

 Even the smallest decorations - such as these quatrefoils - have incredible detail and depth. I could spend hours here looking at everything from the largest scene to the smallest detail. I think I’ll need to go back to Padova before too long.

Note: The Scrovegni Chapel is open to the public with advanced reservation tickets only. Before entering the chapel itself there is a short video (with subtitles in English) which gives a good history of the chapel. Admission is limited to about 25 people at a time with a time limit in the chapel of 15 minutes per group. A short time, but well worth it and sufficient to see this small space (especially after some pre-visit reading).

Off The Beaten Path in Vernazza

Vernazza is crowded in June (even before peak season).

Vernazza is one of the five little villages that make up the Cinque Terre, stretching along the Ligurian coast of Italy. 4 of the 5 towns are perched right along the sea (from north to south: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Manarola, and Riomaggiore). The fifth village is Corniglia which sits nearly 400 steps up a hillside. Once a string of isolated fishing villages, the railroad made the region more accessible and the tourists soon followed. Today the Cinque Terre is a UNESCO World Heritage site, part of a national park, and a popular tourist destination.

Many would argue that the whole region has become much too popular with tourists and that is probably most true of picturesque Vernazza. It can be a very crowded place, especially in the summer.

And yet, it is a magical place to visit. Vernazza has a natural harbor surrounded by dramatic cliffs with the ruins of a castle and tower, an ancient defense against pirates, facing out to sea. The small harbor plays host to the ferry dock, fishing boats, lots of sunbathers along the rocks, and a small beach.

Colorful boats in Vernazza’s harbor

Standing tall above the harbor is the church of Santa Margherita D’Antiochia with it’s unusual octagonal campanile (bell tower). It is this church and the harbor that is the classic view of Vernazza and the photo taken my countless visitors (top photo). Nearby is pretty Piazza Marconi ringed with cafes and restaurants. From there a single main street links the harbor with the train station on the opposite side of town. Along the street is an arch leading to another small beach, shops, gelaterie, a small street-side chapel, and lots and lots of tourists.

When I visited in mid-June, with my daughter and two oldest grandkids, the crowds had already arrived though had not yet peaked. After a harbor side lunch we headed out along Via Roma. After a while we decided to escape the crowds by taking a left hand turn and heading up some steps to get above the fray. What a good decision!

Just one street off the busy “main drag”, Via Agostino del Santo is another world entirely. Few people, no tourists spots. But so much to enjoy - small houses with painted doors, steep streets, little hidden alleys, a couple of galleries, enchanting corners, and a walk that ended high above the harbor with great views.

This off the beaten path walk was a wonderful break from the crowds and a glimpse of Vernazza that most visitors never see. As is so often the case when visiting Italy, it is the slices of everyday life and the hidden spots that are the most enchanting.

Camogli, A Perfect Spot on the Portofino Penisola

If asked to pick my favorite spot on the Portofino Peninsula, for me there would be no competition - it’s Camogli. Smaller than its busier neighbor Rapallo, and much more humble than nearby Portofino, Camogli strikes the perfect balance.

At its heart, Camogli remains a small fishing village. The name most likely originated as a contraction of the word Casa (house) and Mogli (Wives), a nod to the time when the men stayed away fishing and the wives kept things running in town. An alternative theory is that it signifies a town of closely packed houses. That fits too as Camogli is filled with rows of connected houses in sun-drenched colors. To add to the charm, many of the houses are decorated with tromp l’oeil paintings and pretty flower-filled balconies. Even the laundry is decorative.

Today, the area surrounding the small harbor and seaside promenade remains the center of action in this friendly and laid back town. And there is still a lot of fishing going on, with signs of that activity visible throughout town.

There are two ways to arrive in Camogli (other than by car). The train, just two stops and about 8 minutes away from Rapallo, arrives in the upper part of town. A walk down the main street in front of the station takes you past colorful houses, small parks, bougainvillea covered fences, little shops, and a small tourist info office (stop in for a town map). It also provides teasing glimpses of the sea down below.

The second way to arrive is by ferry from San Fruttuoso, arriving in the lower town’s small harbor. The harbor is full of fishing boats and small sailing boats.

Camogli’s harbor, viewed through its romantic fence full of hearts. Valentine’s Day is an event to celebrate in Camogli.

A walk along the back of the harbor leads to a long jetty with harbor and open sea views, an interesting art installation, and a peek at Genoa in the distance.

Up above the harbor, on a rocky cliff jutting out to the sea, sits the Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta, with one side facing the harbor and the other a small rocky swimming spot. Also on the the cliff is a 13th century defensive structure, the Castello della Dragonara (Dragon’s Castle). Built to defend against invaders, it did not stop an attack by the Milanese in the 15th century. Over time it has been destroyed, rebuilt, used as a prison and abandoned. Today it stands as a sleepy guard over the peaceful fishing village (it is not open to visitors).

Castello della Dragonara (photo by Jake Davis)

The rocky perch on which the church and castle stand separates the harbor from the seaside promenade that stretches along Via Garibaldi. The promenade plays host to shady archways, shops, restaurants (the local specialty is focaccia, but oh the gelato and granita!), beaches lined with colorful umbrellas, and distant views of sea and sailboats. I don’t think that there is a more tranquil, friendly spot on the Portofino Peninsula.

A day in Camogli was not nearly enough time to spend in this perfect little fishing village. I think fall would be a perfect time to return or perhaps in May for the annual Sagra del Pesce (Festival of the Fish). Or in August for the Festa della Stella Maris (Festival of the Star of the Sea) when candles float on the sea in honor of the Madonna who protects sailors. Decisions, decisions!

An Italian Seaside Vacation

Some people think that living in Lucca means that I am on permanent vacation. Not true! My daily life here consists mostly of routine things - grocery shopping, laundry, cooking, paying bills - along with doing the research, photography and writing for Two Parts Italy. Fortunately, I am able to do these things in a spectacularly beautiful walled town surrounded by the musical sound of the Italian language, make little day trips to surrounding towns, and enjoy all the riches Lucca has to offer. Life here is a joy but not an endless vacation. As with any daily life, sometimes a gal wants (needs) to change things up a bit and go on a real vacation. Even better if that vacation includes sun, sea, quaint villages, and the beautiful rugged coast of Liguria. Add in a visiting daughter and a couple of grandkids and you’ve got the foundation for a great trip.

Rapallo’s seaside promenade - the view from our Airbnb apartment. Perfect location!

Arriving by ferry to villages from Portovenere to Portofino added a fun dimension to visiting villages along the Ligurian coast

I always think that the best vacations combine someplace new with a much loved place from a previous trip. My June vacation met both of those criteria. The new place was the Portofino Peninsula. The return visit was to Levanto, a special request from my grandkids who fell in love with this laid back seaside town on their first visit to Italy several years ago. And while I picked the two towns in which we based, I pretty much let the activities be driven by my grandkids who, at ages 17 and 13, had some pretty specific requests - boats, beaches, one big city adventure, a little shopping, and lots of gelato.

First stop: Rapallo and an Airbnb apartment a block from the sea and just steps from lively restaurants, bars, and shops. Rapallo makes a great base for exploring the whole peninsula, including the towns of Santa Margarita Ligure, Camogli, and Portofino as well as the more rugged areas (great for hikers) around the Abbey at San Fruttuoso. In the summer all of these are connected by the Tigullio Ferry System, a fun way to travel around the area. Rapallo also has a very convenient train station with quick connections to Santa Margarita and Camogli. Genoa is an easy day trip too, just 23 miles away.

The castle fortress in Rapallo.

Rapallo has a lovely seaside promenade, the Lungomare Vittorio Veneto, which curves around from a harbor and sailing school at one end, to a private beach club, a small public beach (under construction during our visit), and down to a castle fortress. The fortress was built centuries ago to defend the city of Rapallo from the 16th century pirates who once caused havoc along the coast. It seems to still be working - there wasn’t a pirate to be found during our visit. Next to the castle is a small public beach. As is typical for this area, the beaches are more pebbles than sand. Walk further and find some seaside hotels, good spots for a sunset cocktail, and pretty villas. All along the way are street mosaics with sea themes and gorgeous views.

Across the street from the promenade are several restaurants with pretty views, attracting lots of tourists.

We had great pizza there one night at Pizzeria Nettuno where you can select your crust (classic, integrale, or a soy/rice blend) and choose from a huge variety of toppings. It may have been along the seaside “tourist row” but it was terrific pizza.

Small pedestrian only streets lead away from the water and into the center of town where we found our favorite bars and restaurants. No sea views, but lively and with really good seafood and trofie with pesto, a local specialty. We particularly liked the Osteria Vecchia Rapallo for it’s fritto misto and pasta dishes.

Aperitivo time (virgin cocktails for the kids)

Of course, summer in Italy means sipping a cocktail in a piazza or pretty side street before dinner.

In that spirit, I introduced my teenage grandkids to the joys of the Italian aperitivo at the wonderful Taverna Gallo Nero. Sitting here during aperitivo hour is the very best kind of street theater and people watching.

While my daughter and I sipped Aperol Spritz, the kids enjoyed virgin cocktails along with traditional aperitivo snacks. After all, an aperitivo is a not-to-be-missed cultural experience when in Italy!

Rapallo is filled with beautiful architecture. The Liberty Style villas are gracious and colorful. The old part of town is famous for the painted tromp-l’oeil details on the buildings.

It’s fun to spot the false painted windows, an 18th century tax evasion trick (when taxes were based on the number of windows in a building).

Wandering through town we found ourselves watching ladies make fresh pasta through a shop window, intrigued by a storefront where they made delicate lace by hand, and inspired by kids learning to sail with instructors from the local sailing school. We also roamed through pretty parks (with a statue of Christopher Columbus pointing the way to the new world), along canals leading to the sea, past small churches, and through markets. There were charming piazzas, inviting courtyards, and cafes around every corner.

Rapallo made the perfect base for exploring this part of the Ligurian coast. Our visit provided an introduction to the town ( a longer stay is definitely in my future) and a chance to visit several surrounding villages. I think we all agreed that our favorite spot was the small fishing village of Camogli. More about that next week!

Italy Travel Update : June 2022

It’s June and the Italian summer travel season is in full swing. It seems that everyone who has been not-so-patiently waiting to vacation in Italy for the past two years has arrived this month, a pattern that will likely continue throughout the summer. Expect crowds. Recent travelers include my daughter and two oldest grandkids who arrived this month for a long awaited trip to visit me in Italy. I flew back to the US with them just a few days ago and so thought this would be a good time to share the realities of the current travel situation.

Italian summertime treats - gelato and granita!

Let’s start with the COVID related rules - a subject that has dominated travel discussions for the last two years and confused us all with frequent revisions. The good news is that things are less complicated now. As of June 1 all of the COVID restrictions for entering Italy have been eliminated. The Italian Green Pass, which documented both the results of testing and the completion of vaccines is no longer in use. That means that no proof of vaccines is required (though it is still highly recommended that one be fully vaccinated before any travel) and no pre-flight COVID test is needed. This includes for entry into Italian restaurants, museums, theaters, etc.

Mask mandates are not required in most places but they are still mandatory (through at least September) on public transportation. This includes Italian airline flights, trains, ships, buses. They are also required in health care facilities. And not just any mask will do. An FFP2 (or KN95) is required. Italians are for the most part compliant about this. I have seen staff require passengers to change to an appropriate mask or put one on if they are maskless, especially on planes and trains. It was not enforced on the private ferry services we recently took in Liguria.

The seaside beckons in the fishing village of Camogli

The bad news is that the effect of relaxing the rules is an increasing number of COVID infections. From a personal perspective, COVID has spread more among people I know in the last few months then at any time since the beginning of the pandemic. Several have been quite sick and remained positive, and isolated, for several weeks. This has been a significant enough increase that many in Lucca’s English speaking community have returned to limiting group sizes, avoiding indoor groups, masking in any crowd, more frequent testing, and self-quarantine at the first sign of a sniffle. The relaxation of rules plus the influx of tourists is a concern and many worry that the rules have been cut back too much, too quickly. It remains to be seen if there will be a return to some of the previous rules so it is best to check right before travel. The best site I’ve found is the Italian Ministry of Foreign Affairs (www.esteri.it) with information in both Italian and English.

What about the return to the United States? As of June 12 there is no requirement for COVID testing prior to entering the US (a big change). US citizens do not need to provide proof of immunization. Non-US citizens are required to have completed a primary series of immunizations at least two weeks prior to entry to the US, no booster required. Masks are no longer required on US airlines but still highly recommended. Few people were wearing masks on my recent flight from Frankfurt to Denver, despite a packed flight and those rising European COVID rates. I had mine firmly in place, as did my family. Vaccinations and masks may not be required but they remain the best defensive strategy. And it should go without saying that anyone with signs of illness should not board a plane!

Lucca’s balconies are filled with colorful summer flowers.

Now, for the harsh reality of air travel this summer. Combine a huge increase in travelers to Europe with shortages of pilots, airport staff, and baggage handlers and you get a perfect recipe for chaos. Throw in an uptick in strikes by airline workers and air traffic controllers in Europe and England and, mamma mia - che casino (what a mess)! Travelers need a double dose of patience, determination, the ability to handle last minute changes, flexibility, and a lot of pre-trip preparation.

Take my daughter’s trip as an example of what can happen. She arrived in Frankfurt to find her connection to Pisa canceled. She was rebooked automatically but with a two day delay in Frankfurt and one of her children on a different flight (definitely not ok!). In order to get her to Italy with only a one night stay in Germany, and both kids on the same flights, she had to fly to Rome instead of Pisa and then take a train to Florence and another to Lucca. With two teenagers in tow. She received no (zip, zero) help from the airlines with finding a hotel for her overnight delay. She arrived in Rome a day later, but two out of three suitcases did not. They were missing in action for almost the whole trip. That meant buying new wardrobes for my daughter and one of the grandkids. When did the bags arrive? The last 2 days of the trip! The tales of travelers arriving days late, missing cruises or big events, ruined trips, tears, and lost luggage are all too frequent right now. So, what’s a traveler to do?

The neighborhood in Rome where I found a last minute hotel as I raced there to meet my family’s rerouted flights. A stressful and expensive detour but I made the best of it. I found a lovely neighborhood bar just down the street from the hotel.

First, keep an eye on flight schedules as they are likely to change. Choose flights with as few legs as possible. It might save some money to have more stops but it also increases the chance for delays and cancelations. Whenever possible fly directly into Italy rather than transiting through another European country. Bags are more likely to be misplaced when multiple flights into multiple countries with more than 1 carrier are involved. Recent photos of piles of delayed luggage at Heathrow have convinced me that there really is a place where suitcases go to die.

Arrive a couple of days early to avoid missing a cruise or important event.

If arriving before a cruise, cooking week, wedding, or other important event, plan to come a couple of days early. Travel insurance can help cover the costs of a delay, but not the heartbreak of missing a big event!

A classic Tuscan landscape, near Pienza.

Pack light and do only carry on if at all possible. If it is necessary to check a bag, then a carry-on bag with essentials (as always - medications, jewelry, makeup etc) should come along and carry a change or two of clothing and perhaps an extra pair of shoes. Leave non-essentials at home. The space a couple of books take in a carry-on is better used for clothing! Keep a record of what is in each bag and be able to provide a complete description of a bag that goes missing. Also hang on to boarding passes as they can be needed if claiming compensation for lost or delayed baggage.

Travel may be a bit complicated these days, but it is worth the effort ! Rome awaits.

Be sure to sign up for notifications from the airlines and use wifi on board the flight (even if it costs) to follow the next legs of travel. Much better to know as far in advance as possible if the next flight is delayed or canceled. When my daughter’s flight from Frankfurt to Pisa was canceled she was in the air and without wifi. I saw the cancelation because I was tracking her flights (with the Flight View app) from my home in Italy. I was able to book her a hotel in Frankfurt and rearrange her flights even before she landed. Meanwhile, I could not reach her to let her know about the changes, or ask for her preferences, and no announcements were made during her flight. Not until she landed and checked the departure board did she see the cancelation. By that time the lines at the service counters were long and chaotic. Luckily, she got my text once she had access to airport wifi. She could skip those long lines to rebook and the search for a hotel as I had been able to arrange them before she even knew there was a problem. But not every traveler has a mamma in Italy, so best to be able to check for one’s self throughout the journey.

If cancelation or lost luggage is your fate, start collecting the documentation needed to file claims right away. This includes: proof of the cancelation (a screen shot of the itinerary showing the cancelation or even of the departure board), receipts for hotel stays and meals, receipts for the purchase of personal items and clothing required due to lost or delayed bags. Keep everything! Losses may be covered by the airlines (not guaranteed depending on circumstances), trip insurance, or credit card benefits.

prosciutto and melon - tastes like summer in Italy!

My return flights to the US last week went a bit more smoothly. But check-in took longer than normal in Florence, leaving no time for a coffee stop much less a bite to eat, between check in and boarding (not ideal with a 6:20 am flight, pack snacks). We were delayed an hour out of Frankfurt. That flight was packed. Arrival in Denver was a madhouse, with a need to go back through a very long security line and then a mad dash to our final connection just in time to board. Not even time for a bathroom break !

Please remember to be kind to flight attendants and airport staff. They are the ones working hard, despite all the challenges, and aren’t personally to blame for current issues. Truthfully, I was embarrassed by some of the rude passengers on my flights. A simple please and thank you goes a long way!

Come to Italy and take a selfie ! Despite delays and lost luggage my crew had a wonderful Italian vacation.

The good news is that between the crazy arrival flights and the stressful return flights, Italy provided a wonderful vacation. My daughter and two oldest grandkids, ages 13 and 16, are great travelers. They weathered the chaos of travel without missing a beat and arrived determined to not let delays and missing baggage ruin their enjoyment of Italy (and two of them now have new Italian wardrobes). Attitude really is the key to surviving this year’s challenging travel situation. They loved Lucca, Rapallo and the Portofino Peninsula, a day trip to Genoa, and 4 days in the Cinque Terre. Lots of blog posts to come about these wonderful places to visit!