Reception area, Hotel Morandi alla Crocetta

A Recommended Hotel in Florence: The Morandi alla Crocetta

February 04, 2019 by Joanne Bartram in Florence, Hotels Florence, Tuscany, Italy travel

What do you look for when you choose a hotel in Italy?

A courtyard at Hotel Morandi alla Crocetta

I look for places that are small, unique to the city I’m visiting, simple yet charming, and reasonably priced. I avoid the big chains and international brands in favor of places that are family-owned and offer local character and personal touches. I find the smaller hotels to be welcoming and friendly with great connections to local culture and wonderful service to guests.

The first time I traveled to Florence, 20-some years ago, I came across a gem of a small hotel called the Morandi alla Crocetta. I’ve stayed there many times since and it never disappoints – in fact, it’s the only place I stay when I’m in Florence. It has the perfect combination of history, charm, location, service, and price.

Wearing the laurel wreath of a graduate of the law school, right next to the hotel

The hotel is at 50 Via Laura in the section of Florence near the Ospedale degli Innocenti, Church of SS. Annunziata, the Academia (home of the David), and the Archeological Museum. It’s an easy walk to all the major points of interest in Florence, about eight minutes to the Duomo. This is a lively (but not noisy) neighborhood, which is also home to the University of Florence School of Law. During my recent visit, I was able to watch the graduation celebrations as law students and their families marked the completion of degrees (laurea in Italian). What fun it was to witness this event!

Many artifacts related to Sister Domenica are displayed in the hotel

The Morandi alla Crocetta is a unique property, originally a convent founded by Sister Domenica del Paradiso (what a name!) in the early 16th century, during the era of the Medici. According to the history provided in the hotel literature, Sister Domenica sided with the Medici family in their conflict with the powerful cleric Savonarola, and so the Medici rulers gave her this land on which to build her convent. The convent was called the Convent of the Cross (cross is crocetta in Italian) as all the nuns had a small red cross on their habits. The convent was later enlarged by a Medici princess and connected by an overpass to her palazzo so she could worship at the convent’s small chapel. With time, and a period of religious suppression, the nuns moved away and the convent ceased to exist.

Today’s hotel Morandi includes the cloister and gardens from the historic convent. It is a small hotel with two floors (ground and first, with an elevator). The convent’s chapel is no longer accessible, but the former entry to the chapel is perhaps the most interesting room in the hotel - complete with 17th century frescoes and illustrations of the life of Sister Domenica. This room is a bit of a splurge, but definitely worth it.

Ceiling Fresco, Chapel Room

Chapel Room

Fresco, Chapel Room

Other rooms range from small (comfortable and economical) singles to large suites, some with private outdoor patios. There are several gracious lounge areas with a variety of books, magazines, and newspapers for browsing.

Single Room

Desk area in single room

Double Room

Since I was staying in one of the small single rooms during my most recent visit, I made good use of the comfortable public areas as a place to read and do some writing.

The hotel provides a full breakfast in an elegant room overlooking a small courtyard garden. Breakfast includes a basket of cornetti (Italian style croissants) and bread with jam, yogurt, fruit, cereal, juice, coffee, and tea. Also available are eggs, bacon, ham, salami, and cheeses. It’s a great place to meet other travelers and compare experiences over morning coffee. In the evening, the breakfast room transforms into a bar.

My most recent stay at the hotel Morandi alla Crocetta (October 2018) was a delight. This is a place that I happily recommend. I’m already planning a return next summer with my family. - post by JMB

Contact info:

Hotel Morandi alla Crocetta

Via Laura 50, Firenze 50121

phone: +39 055 234 4748

email: welcome@hotelmorandi.it

Celebrating Lucca’s Traditional Foods

January 28, 2019 by Joanne Bartram

Italy gave birth to the Slow Food movement, which promotes the flavors (sapori) of local food and knowledge (saperi) about regional culinary traditions. Lucca’s recent slow food festival, Il Desco, was described as a “tribute to the food and wine heritage of the Lucchese territory.” And what a tribute it was!

This annual event, held over two weekends in late November and early December, showcased the varied products grown, raised, and produced in the area around Lucca. The many booths provided the chance to sample delicious flavors and learn about production of wines, beers, olive oils, meats, cheeses, breads, pastries, nuts and more.

Even better than grazing through and tasting at the displays is to have lunch at Il Desco. Plates of salumi, prosciutto and cheeses, roasted porchetta, and a variety of panini are sold. I was most delighted to find the booth where they were cooking necci, chestnut flour crepes. One of these, filled with ricotta, made a perfect lunch for me (and cost just 2 euro). They were popular with children too - who seemed to have a definite preference for Nutella as a filling.

I’m a huge fan of these local food celebrations - wandering around taking in the sight of all this beautifully displayed food, not to mention the fragrance, is the perfect way to develop an appreciation for local small-batch production methods and the exquisite quality of products that demonstrate why slow food is good food and Lucchese food is great food. -post by JMB

The views from Capri are beyond compare. These are the famous faraglioni (rock formations eroded by waves) off the coast of the island.

Capri, Italy: Not Just for Honeymooners

January 21, 2019 by Judy Giannnettino

The beautiful Italian island of Capri is often thought of as a honeymoon destination, but you don’t have to be a newlywed or even part of a couple to appreciate the romance of the place.

Just a 50-minute ferry ride from the bustling city of Naples, Capri has been a resort destination since ancient Roman times. Sunshine, beaches, clear turquoise water, unique shopping, delicious food, outdoor activities, and the Italian flair for living la dolce vita – Capri has all that and more.

Because it can be reached so easily from the mainland, many visitors see the island only as a day trip. Staying longer, however, allows for a much more thorough investigation. Whether there for a romantic getaway or simply because you need to get away, Capri is a treat for the senses.

The island’s famous Blue Grotto is a highlight for many people. A word of caution: It often can’t be visited due to rough water. Don’t worry – there are many other highlights. Marina Piccola offers swimming, snorkeling and a small beach (as well as the legend that it is where Odysseus almost surrendered to the Sirens’ song).

Shops offer high-end items and low-end souvenirs. You can find a cobbler who will handcraft a pair of leather sandals for you, spas with extensive menus of treatments, one-of-a-kind art and bottles of limoncello galore. The island’s restaurants will have you drooling over fresh fish, tomatoes, eggplant and herbs. If you like to hike, there are several trails that will give you a great workout (think steep limestone cliffs) and even greater views.

The island of Capri has only two towns: Capri and Anacapri. Capri has the more expensive hotels, shops and restaurants, and is the town most visited by tourists. Anacapri has a much less touristy feel, more hiking opportunities and much less nightlife. It also has no waterfront beaches. I think everyone should visit both. In Anacapri, a chairlift will slowly carry you to the top, where you can choose to hike down or ride back the way you came.

While Capri gets packed with tourists in high season, its beauty is simply something that shouldn’t be missed. Just looking at photos from my last trip to the island has me wondering when I can return. -post by JG

Volterra

January 14, 2019 by Joanne Bartram in Italy travel, Hill Towns Italy, Tuscany, Volterra, #italytravel, #volterra, Italy

The days between the hubbub of Christmas and the celebrations of the new year are perfect for a low-key day trip into the Tuscan countryside. I’m always a bit lazy during this time of year, so a drive, a walk around a pretty town, and a good lunch were all that was on the agenda, saving museums and other more in-depth explorations for a later visit.

One of the entrances into the city of Volterra

Volterra is a place I’ve always wanted to explore but until now had never visited. So, when a couple of friends suggested a day trip, I jumped at the chance. On a crisp and foggy morning a few days after Christmas, we set out from Lucca and headed for Volterra, about an hour and a half away by car. Because Volterra is a little out of the way, without a train station or easy bus connections, it has fewer tourists than some of the other Tuscan hill towns (such as Arezzo or Cortona) and doesn’t seem to get the large tour groups that visit San Gimignano. And on this winter day it was almost free of tourists.

Volterra is a very old city, dating to Etruscan times. It is particularly known for two things - Etruscan artifacts and the creation of objects made of alabaster. We skipped the museum but did manage to do a little shopping for alabaster. It was fascinating to watch an artisan at work in her small shop (Gloria Giannelli Alabastri). Her work was gorgeous - delicate small carvings, bowls, vases, light fixtures. She was happy to talk about her work and the process of making alabaster pieces. She demonstrated how she began with raw alabaster and worked it to create objects made either from a solid alabaster block or as a mosaic from slabs of different colors of alabaster. Of course, I bought a small piece!

All pieces are handmade by the artist

Raw Alabaster

I couldn’t resist this little bowl

The town of Volterra is beautiful, with it’s old castello (castle), town wall and arches, beautiful stone buildings, little alleys, carved doors, and ornate iron windows.

A small vicolo with steep stairs heading to the castello

The wide gently sloped streets are lined with homes, shops, and restaurants. And at this time of year it was made festive with Christmas lights and decorations all through town.

Our lunch stop, at Ristorante La Terra di Mezzo, was a treat. We chose several pasta dishes, all delicious. The chocolate soufflé dessert, recommended by our waiter, was fantastic.

Pappardelle with ham and truffles

A spicy Arrabbiata alla Calabrese

A warm chocolate soufflé

After lunch and a bit more wandering around town, we headed home to Lucca, knowing that we’d have to return soon for more exploration and to visit the Etruscan Museum. I couldn’t have asked for a more perfect late December day in Tuscany! -post by JMB

Looking out over the valley from a viewpoint in Volterra

Finding Luck in the New Year - The Italian Way

January 07, 2019 by Joanne Bartram in Italian culture, Italy

Italy is a land of traditions and fun-to-embrace superstitions. As in many cultures, some of these relate to the beginning of a new year and finding good luck, love, and fortune in the coming months - and who doesn't want all that?

One tradition, the wearing of new red underwear, is said to bring romance and even fertility in the coming year. Store windows display pretty red underthings that are supposed to be given as gifts and worn just on New Year’s Eve (I’m not sure if this is an old superstition or just a good marketing tool). In a pinch, a red article of clothing seems a reasonable compromise.

In the spirit of “out with the old to make room for the new,” getting rid of old things by tossing them out the window is an old tradition that I have never encountered, though I’ve heard it still happens in small towns in southern Italy If visiting there on New Year’s Eve, be prepared to duck! Maybe we should just toss out old problems and outdated ways of doing things instead?

It is also said that the first person you see in the new year will determine the type of year it will be. Good luck follows if you meet an elderly person (if of the opposite gender - or a hunchback - that’s even better), but worry if you first encounter a child or a priest.

Winter skies in Lucca - starting the new year here makes me feel pretty lucky!

Of course some of the new year traditions involve food. Eating 12 grapes is good luck, as is eating pomegranate. Perhaps the best luck (at least financially) comes from eating lentils (lenticchie), which are coin shaped. Increase the luck factor by including rounds of sausage in the dish. Not one to ignore superstition (except maybe for the new red underwear), I was sure to have a pot of lentil soup over the holiday. Mine was full of carrots and celery and included sausage, though I skipped the traditional round (another coin shape) cotechino sausage, which was just too big for my small pot of lentils. I used crumbled small sausages instead (hopefully that does not mean my fortunes will crumble!). This made a flavorful soup and, if the superstition holds, will ensure that I have all the coins I need to stay in Italy throughout 2019. Fingers crossed! -post by JMB

Rome window, 1996. I hope to visit here in 2019.