Shadows

There is something special about the light in Italy. Ask any one of the painters who come here to capture that light in watercolor or oil. Ask the photographers. Ask anyone who enjoys walking through Italian villages or down country lanes bathed in light. The light here inspires and seduces. 

Shadows on the walls at the entrance to an enclosed garden in Sant’Andrea di Compito, Tuscany.

Where there is light, there is also shadow. As much as I love the light, it is in the shadows that I find mystery and magic. They change with the season and with the hour. They cast a spell, changing ordinary scenes and objects into works of art.

Late summer shadows on an old marble sink

Shadows always make me want to pull out my camera. Few words are necessary to capture the intrigue of shadows - pictures tell the whole story. So, no more words, just a few of my favorite photos of Italy’s shadows.

Spring time shadows made by a bridge over the river Magra in Bagnone

Lucca, shadows atop the wall

Springtime wisteria create beautiful shadows

October shadows, Parco Ducale, Parma

Winter time shadows, Venice

When Italy's Prime Minister Speaks, Would-be Travelers Listen

Things are looking up in Italy. COVID infection rates are falling, with the all important Rt rate last week at 0.81 (this value reflects the number of people who will become infected by one person with the virus). A number below 1.0 is good and means that the rate of spread is decreasing. That doesn’t mean the pandemic is over, or that we should throw caution to the wind, but new infections are down significantly, a hopeful sign.

In the last week of April most of Italy returned to the yellow zone, with the least restrictive measures. Last week Sardinia remained red and 5 regions (mostly in the south) remained orange. As of today, no regions are in the dreaded red zone and only Sardinia and Sicily remain in the orange zone. The rest of Italy is yellow. That’s progress!

The view from the terrace at Lucca Italian School. With the lovely weather, and Italy getting ready to welcome tourists, lessons on the terrace or down in the large garden are once again possible.

With the decrease in restrictions in much of Italy, including Tuscany, life has become a bit more normal. The restaurants, bars, and cafes have dusted off their tables and chairs, put out the umbrellas, and opened for outdoor dining. For the first time in a very long while both daytime and evening meals can be served (though a mandatory 10pm closure remains in place, very early by Italian standards). Movie theaters have reopened at 50% capacity, museums and galleries are also open with controlled numbers admitted. Language schools are able to hold in-person classes. A huge development is the ok to travel outside of one’s community to visit other yellow zone areas.

On June 1st beach clubs can re-open. No doubt the chairs will be a bit further apart than in this photo from Lerici in the summer of 2020.

Is there an aperitivo in your future ? It is once again possible in bars throughout most of Italy.

June 1st will see beach clubs and swimming pools reopen - just in time for summer recreation. Masks are still important, as is hand washing and social distancing. But, to sit in a piazza and share a drink with friends, go to a movie, visit a friend’s home, head to the beach, take a day trip or an out of town vacation - those are things everyone has missed. I hope we never take them for granted! Mask wearing and attention to social distancing seem a small price to pay for the return of these possibilities.

Immunizations, which have progressed very slowly in Italy due to limited supplies, are also picking up. Efforts to increase the supply are on-going and more doses are expected soon. This is further cause for optimism.

Italy’s Prime Minister, Mario Draghi, made big news last week when he declared “Italy is ready to welcome back the world” and “The time has come to book your vacations in Italy” (of course he said it in lovely Italian, making the announcement even sweeter). This is news that many have been waiting for. Italy is heavily dependent on tourism, especially visitors from North America, and their return will go a long way to helping the economy begin to recover.

Early October is a perfect time to visit Lake Como

Rome awaits tourists with the Green Pass

Both Italy and the EU Commission are supporting the relaxation of travel restrictions, both for EU and non-EU visitors. In the most recent proposal, entering Italy will require proof of one of these 3 criteria: fully vaccinated status, documented recovery from previous COVID infection, or a negative COVID test within days of travel. This is referred to as a “green pass”. Those with the green pass will not have to quarantine when entering Italy (or anywhere in the EU). The details aren’t entirely clear, and the procedure for obtaining the green pass has not yet been published. More specifics are expected in the next weeks with travel set to resume as early as later this month in Italy. A slightly later mid-June date was set by the EU commission. These announcements are exciting news for Americans and Canadians who want to visit Italy and for the many part-year residents who have been anxiously awaiting a return to their Italian homes.

But there is also concern - many who live in Italy remember that the arrival of European tourists last summer led to an increase in COVID cases and a new round of restrictions. The hope is that with vaccinated tourists, or those screened for disease, there will not be a repeat of that increase. It will be necessary for all visitors to follow the rules for masking, avoid large gatherings, and to not travel with any signs of illness.

And so … travel planning begins anew. With caution. With immunizations. With joy.

From my Italian Kitchen: Onion Soup

Call it what you will - Onion Soup, Zuppa di Cipolle Francese, or Soupe a l’Oignon - a rich broth full of caramelized onions and topped with toasted bread and melted cheese is delicious in any language and in any season.

The ingredients for the soup are few - onions, butter, brandy, wine, broth and some seasonings. But that simple list allows for a lot of variation. If I were making this dish in the United States, I would use sweet Vidalia onions. Those are not an option in Italy but that’s ok, just about any yellow onion will do. I’ve even seen some recipes that use white or red onions or a mix of the two.

I use unsalted butter, though I have seen some recipes that substitute olive oil. Even when I’m cooking in Italy I stick to butter for this soup as I think it adds essential flavor.

Calvados, a French apple brandy, works well in this soup

Most recipes call for a bit of brandy and for that I like to use a French Calvados, an apple brandy from the region of Normandy. After all, the origins of this soup are definitely French so Calvados is a natural fit. It also adds a nice touch of sweetness to the onions. If you don’t have Calvados, just substitute another brandy.

As for the wine, most recipes call for a dry white wine. In a nod to this being an Italian version, I use a local red. My go to favorite everyday Italian, Urlo di Lupo from Tenuta Maria Teresa in the hills outside of Lucca, works perfectly. The red adds a depth of flavor that pairs well with the next ingredient - beef broth. There are lighter versions of onion soup that call for chicken broth. If using chicken broth I would definitely use a white wine, but I like my onion soup bold and a bit more intense so I go with red wine and beef broth. And while homemade beef stock is ideal, I am unlikely to have a stash of homemade broth in my tiny freezer so I cheat and use store bought.

Now for the most important ingredient and, for me at least, the hardest - the patience required to caramelize all those onions. There is simply no way to speed up this process. I have tried (and failed) many times. Start with melted butter and thinly sliced onions in a large pan over low heat, stirring until the onions soften and start to become translucent. Then, nudge the heat up a bit towards medium and back off! If stirred too often the onions never rest on the bottom on the pan long enough to caramelize and end up as just a pile of soft translucent onions. The same can happen if using too small a pan, so give those onions plenty of room to contact the bottom of the pan. Cook for 5 or 6 minutes and then stir. Keep repeating this step, moving a bit of onion to the side of the pan every 5 minutes or so to see that there is some brown on the surface of the pan and the onions are sticking a little to the bottom (but not burning or getting crisp; adjust flame as needed). Then give them a stir bringing the brown onions up to the surface. If not, wait a bit longer. The process of caramelizing will take about an hour. At first it seems nothing is happening, but then the onions begin to change color and eventually become a perfect deep brown color and very fragrant.

Once the onions are caramel colored, quickly add the calvados. Stir to deglaze the pan and bring all those lovely brown bits into the onions, alllowing the Calvados to evaporate quickly. Next, add red wine and simmer until reduced and becoming almost syrup-like. Next in the pot goes the beef broth and seasoning. After a 20 minute simmer the soup is ready.

After the onions are caramelized the rest of the soup comes together quickly

Spoon the soup into ovenproof bowls, top with slices of toasted baguette, a handful of cheese (Gruyere or Emmenthal plus a sprinkle of parmesan) and place under the broiler until the cheese is bubbly and starts to brown. The finished soup is tasty and well worth the patience and time needed to caramelize those onions.

Here is the complete list of ingredients:

1/4 cup unsalted butter

3 large yellow onions, sliced thin

1/3 c. Calvados

1/2 c. red wine

3 cups beef broth

1/4 tsp thyme, 1 bay leaf, 1/2 tsp worchestershire sauce, and several grinds of black pepper.

Grated Gruyere or Emmenthal cheese (I’ve never measured this - just use enough to cover the surface of the bread atop the soup)

Grated Parmesan (about a tablespoon per bowl)

The combination of French and Italian flavors results in a lovely soup. Buon appetito!

Holyroodhouse: A Palace Fit for a Queen

It’s been hard to miss the news out of England lately, even for those who aren’t typically “royal watchers”. From family drama to sadness about the death of Prince Phillip to a royal birthday, all eyes have been on The Queen. And no matter what we think about the life of royals (or if we think about them at all), we must admit that they have some pretty amazing real estate. All those palaces fit for a queen!

So much talk of England reminds me of the one royal palace I have visited - The Palace of Holyroodhouse in Edinburgh, Scotland. No dusty historical monument, Holyroodhouse is still The Queen’s official residence in Scotland. And though she only spends about one summer week per year there, it remains the site of royal functions and is an important part of the culture of Scotland. The palace anchors one end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, with the Edinburgh Castle at the other end and a world of interesting things along the way between the two.

The entry courtyard to the palace with its two towers at either end.

The good news is that, except for that one week per year when Queen Elizabeth visits, the palace is open to visitors. Well, at least in a non-COVID year it is. While the palace has been closed during the pandemic, it is has recently reopened with limited visitation (tickets must be purchased ahead of time). With that in mind, it seems timely to write about this interesting, beautiful, and historic place.

I visited the Palace at Holyroodhouse as part of a visit to Edinburgh for the Fringe Festival in 2019. I was traveling with two very British friends who said that they’d seen enough royal palaces to last them a lifetime, but I couldn’t pass up the chance to explore the palace, its gardens, and the museum. So while my friends went off to a Fringe Festival show, I headed to the palace.

This carving over the entrance to the quadrangle includes elements of Scotland’s Royal Coat of Arms

The guided tour inside the palace was fascinating and full of historic detail, murderous intrigue, and a healthy dose of royal comings and goings. It was fun to hear details such as “when The Queen visits, this is where she hosts visitors for lunch” or “in this room, the Italian Rizzio, private secretary to Mary, Queen of Scots, was murdered in the year 1566”. Was he Queen Mary’s lover? It is said her jealous husband ordered the murder. A 16th century drama with Scottish and Italian players - who doesn’t love a drama with a 16th century Italian twist?

Also interesting were the furnishings and many artifacts. Unfortunately, photography was not allowed in the interior of the palace, so other than this one view of the entry hall, all my photos are of the exterior. A good collection of interior photos can be found on the website of the Royal Collection Trust.

Such detail in this entryway. But the serious guard says no more photos allowed!

The gardens surrounding the palace are also lovely with long stretches of green lawn, trees, and flowers. Just imagine attending one of The Queen’s garden parties there. I’d have to step up my wardrobe, and add a hat and gloves, to be sure!

A glimpse of the gardens through this old iron gate

One of the most striking features is found outside of the palace - the ruins of Holyrood Abbey. The abbey dates back to the 12th century when it was founded by King David I. The legend is that he founded the abbey in thanks after he survived an accident in the nearby woods.

The abbey has been in ruins since 1768 when the roof collapsed. The parts still standing are beautiful, with stone walls, arches, and carvings. It is a place of quiet and stark grace with a fairytale-like soft light filtering through the missing windows.

After touring the palace and wandering through the ruined abbey and the well-tended gardens there was just enough time left for the small museum displaying art from the royal collection, a look in the gift shop, and lunch in the restaurant on the palace grounds (with some very tasty Scottish meat pie). This was a wonderful way to spend a late summer afternoon and a fascinating glimpse into royal life. With the palace beginning to reopen and long delayed travel planning now beginning, this is definitely a place to include if Scotland is on your travel list.

A Wisteria Walk Through Lucca

Lucca has to be one of the most wonderful places for walking. For starters, the renaissance wall surrounding the city provides a long path, a tree-lined beauty, perfect for both a passeggiata (stroll) and for people watching. Not far outside the city is an old aqueduct which provides several miles of walking path along its beautiful arches. Inside the historic center of town the streets are lined with medieval buildings, unique patterned brickwork, remnants of Roman civilization, churches, and piazzas. There is no shortage of interesting paths to take or beauty to behold.

The shadows cast by this wisteria are just as interesting as the blooms themselves.

And while just wandering through all of these fabulous sights is wonderful, sometimes I feel that I need a purposeful walk. Not purposeful as in needing to walk to the grocery store or bakery but rather a focused walk, one to discover something specific. Some days I go walking and try to find a street I’ve never seen before. Often I do a photography walk - last week I searched for and took photos of old, neglected doors. The week before it was door knockers and doorbells.

This glorious wall of wisteria is in Piazza Antelminelli. The church of San Giovanni is in the background.

In spring, my favorite walks are to discover what is blooming. In March I took an almost daily walk down Corso Garibaldi, a street in Lucca that is lined with Magnolia trees. They are beautiful, but they don’t last long. In the last couple of weeks I’ve watched the trees along the wall begin to sprout their leaves and right now the wisteria are blooming all around town. The wisteria (glicine in Italian) are spectacular as they tumble over walls and across trellises. It seemed as though the vines were bare one day and full of early blossoms the next. A week or so later they were spectacular in full bloom.

Less common here, but no less beautiful, are these white wisteria in Piazza San Giovanni.

My favorite stand of wisteria is in tiny Piazza Parigi. The trunks are old and thick and they twist their way through an old iron fence. The blooms spill over the top and fill the small piazza with a soft scent.

Watching the wisteria blooms unfold this spring has been a treat for me, even more so because last year I missed them as Italy was on strict lockdown throughout March and April, which meant no strolls through town to watch them bloom. That makes them even more special this year when I can freely wander through town to see, smell, and photograph them!

Tucked away in a small alley off Via Cenami.

Not all of the wisteria action takes place inside the walls. There are some beautiful villas, many in Liberty Style, just outside the walls and several are draped in blooms.

This Liberty Style villa, surrounded by wisteria, is just outside the walls north of the historic center.

Wisteria - a springtime gift from Italy.

The same wall of wisteria as in the top photo, but about 10 days later in full bloom.