A Lucchese April

April can be a fickle month here in Lucca. After a few warm days in late March, the kind of days that almost trick you into packing away the winter sweaters, April barged in with colder days, wind, cloudy skies, and rain. The rain is much needed after a dry winter, so I won’t complain. And if the saying is true, and April showers really do bring May flowers, then Lucca should have a most colorful May.

This stand of white wisteria was an early bloomer this spring

Despite the early April chill, the days are growing longer, the first leaves have appeared on the trees, and the first blossoms throughout town hold the promise that warm spring weather will soon arrive.

Verde Mura is the perfect place to buy pots of herbs for the garden.

Perhaps the best harbinger of spring is the return, after a two year COVID-related pause, of Lucca’s spring garden festival - the Verde Mura. This wonderful event showcases all things needed to plant and tend a garden. It doesn’t matter if your garden is just a few pots on a terrace, a couple of window boxes, or a large orto (vegetable garden), the Verde Mura has what you need. The festival takes place up on the walls that surround Lucca’s centro storico (historic center) which means that the views are part of the fun.

Garden art at Verde Mura

Local gardeners pull wagons through the many booths, collecting everything from rose bushes to fruit trees to annual flowers and herbs. Need a tractor? Well, Verde Mura has just the one. Same with shovels, clay pots, bug sprays, fertilizer, seeds, and outdoor grills. In addition to these garden necessities, this is the place to find whimsical garden art, herbal products (soaps, teas, spices, syrups), fragrant spices, and a variety of crafts.

It is always fun to see traditional craftsmen at work; I especially love watching the basket weavers and broom makers.

Of course there was food (this is Italy after all). In addition to booths serving coffee and sweets there were plenty of vendors of local meats, cheeses, honey, pasta, and breads - most offering an assaggio (a taste). One booth had mounds of beautiful spring artichokes, bundles of aspargus, pretty Tropea onions and ripe strawberries from the south of Italy.

There was even the cutest little wine truck!

A break in the rain allowed for a slow morning wander through the many booths and displays of plants.

I came home with some herbs which are now happily planted in my window boxes as well as a colorful bouquet of ranunculi for my apartment.

I may have needed a warm coat, a scarf, and a hat against the chill but there was still a hint of spring in the air. I am looking forward to seeing the season unfold.

An Introduction to Padova: Part Two

Padova is most famous for its churches. Visitors come to admire the small but spectacular Scrovegni Chapel and the even smaller Oratorio of St. George along with Padova’s baptistery. All three are filled with beautiful frescoes that bring Bible stories to life. In contrast to these small spaces is the grand Basilica of Saint Anthony with its Chapel of Reliquaries, tomb, beautiful main altar, and starry blue ceiling.

But Padova offers more than chapels, baptisteries and basilicas. It is definitely worth seeking out the city’s other attractions including markets, historic buildings, piazzas, pedestrian shopping streets, and attractive outdoor spaces. Getting around town is easy both on foot and with a modern tram system.

Here are some other possibilities when spending a few days in Padova:

Looking down on the city and the stalls of the daily market from the loggia of the Palazzo della Ragione, Padova.

The Palazzo della Ragione sits atop the busy food hall and overlooks the markets in Piazza delle Erbe and Piazza della Frutta.

Loggia, Palazzo della Ragione, Padova

 In medieval times the Palazzo della Ragione served as the Hall of Justice.  Outside is a loggia with beautifully painted arches.  Inside the space is cavernous with a wooden “upturned ship’s hull” shaped roof and a gigantic wooden horse. An intriguing series of frescoes, based on astrology, wraps around the interior of the palazzo.  The frescoes represent months, planets, and signs of the zodiac.  It’s fun to view the seasons in sequence, see how the art reflects the essence of each month, and find how one’s own birth sign is represented.

The pietra del vituperio (stone of shame), where debtors sat before being driven from the city, is still in place at one end of the great hall.  History says that Saint Anthony proposed a seat on this stone as an alternative to harsher punishments.

Imagine sitting here in shame as punishment for debts.

Two of the outdoor spaces in Padova, the Prato della Valle and the Orto Botanico (Botanic Gardens), are delightful.

Prato della Valle, Padova

The Prato della Valle is a large open space not far from the Basilica of Saint Anthony. It was once the field in which the saint preached.  Today it is the “central park” of Padova. The Prato (which means lawn in Italian) is encircled by a canal which is crossed by small stone footbridges. The park is also dotted with statues and fountains.  It’s a pleasant area full of people - mothers pushing prams, couples sitting in the sun, retirees out for a walk, bicyclers and walkers enjoying a stroll.

The Orto Botanico is also close to the Basilica of St. Anthony. It is a large space with a series of gardens, plants from around the world, and educational displays.  Founded in the 1500’s as a garden for medicinal plants and herbs, it has been in this very spot ever since.  There are fountains to be enjoyed and wonderful views throughout the spaces of the botanic garden.

A visit to Padova, including all of the above places plus some time for shopping and wandering, can easily fill three days.  Add in a trip to the central daily market and some great dining and three days fly by. I am looking forward to a future return trip, perhaps combined with a few days in Verona or Venice.

An Introduction to Padova: Part One

It is not uncommon for visitors to northern Italy to make stops in Milan and Lake Como, heading next to Venice.  It’s a wonderful itinerary but leaves out some of the less-visited cities in the Veneto region. One of these cities is Padova (Padua), which lies just a short train ride from Venice. It’s easy to spend a full day in Padova as part of a visit to Venice but it is even better to take a few days and really get to know this interesting city.   As a bonus, Padova is less expensive than major tourist destinations (including Venice), has fewer tourists (there were almost none during my off-season early March visit), is a friendly university town, and has some great food!  The URBS Picta card (sometimes referred to as The Padova Card) includes admission to a number of major sites and is a helpful adjunct in organizing a visit.

The Scrovegni Chapel. Simplicity on the exterior, glorious within.

Detail, Scrovegni Chapel

 Visitors to Padova are most often drawn to the city by its two major sights, the Scrovegni Chapel and the Basilica of Saint Anthony.  It was the Scrovegni Chapel, filled with frescoes by the artist Giotto, that drew me to Padova earlier this month. The small chapel is a masterpiece of medieval art. Giotto, already a well-know artist, worked on the Scrovegni Chapel from 1303 – 1305, creating frescoes that demonstrate the revolution in artistic expression for which he is celebrated.  As in most churches of the time, the frescoes tell stories from the bible and the life of Christ.  They are arranged in a series of panels which wrap around the walls of the small chapel. The Scrovegni Chapel is an important site for those interested in the art of this period and the works of Giotto. Admittance is limited and must be reserved in advance. The Scovegni is such a wonder that it deserves a post all its own, with lots of photos. Coming soon!

The chapel grounds also contain the Eremitani Civic Museum. It is quite large with a wide variety of exhibits. Etruscan and Egyptian artifacts fill the main floor. Interesting, but less so than what comes next.

The upper floor is the real star - the Pinacoteca (Gallery of Paintings). It is filled with an outstanding collection of art by Italian masters. Not to be missed is Giotto’s painted wooden crucifix, moved to the museum from the Scrovegni Chapel.

Among my personal favorites were the fierce angels painted by Guariento in the 14th century (below, top row) and the portraits by Ginevra Cantofoli done in the 17th century. Female artists were relatively few in that time period, so it is always good to see the work of one prominently displayed. Contofoli’s portraits are especially lovely (below, bottom row).

The second major site in Padova is the Basilica of Saint Anthony (Sant’Antonio di Padova). The basilica is an important site for those who come to seek the saint’s help.  St. Anthony is known to aid in finding lost things, protecting travelers, and for blessing women who wish to become pregnant.  It’s even said that he can help find a lost love.  Many believers come in pilgrimage to give thanks for prayers answered or to visit the chapel of the relics.

 I have always been amazed – and perhaps a bit disconcerted – by the concept of a relic.  In the case of Saint Anthony, the relics found in the ornate Chapel of the Reliquaries (within the basilica) include the jaw bone (complete with teeth), the tongue, and the vocal cords of the saint.  Worshippers, along with the merely curious, visit the chapel to see vestments worn by the saint along with his wooden coffin.  Then they climb the steps to the ornate wall displaying his head rest (no soft pillow here, this head rest is made of stone), the three relics, and other artifacts.

Chapel of the Reliquaries, Basilica of St. Anthony, Padova

 The tomb of Saint Anthony lies in a separate chapel within the basilica. This large side chapel is near to the tiny section of the basilica which was the original chapel (before the basilica was built) and where the saint was first buried.  His tomb was later opened and his body moved into the larger basilica. The tomb is surrounded by beautifully carved renaissance era marble panels representing scenes from the saint’s life, topped by an intricate gold ceiling, and elevated on a marble altar.  Worshippers pass behind the ornate altar to touch the tomb, in prayer or in thanks for blessings received.

The basilica complex also includes cloisters and the small but interesting Oratorio di San Giorgio (Oratory of Saint George). The oratory has frescoes detailing the lives, and martyrdom, of Saints George, Catherine, and Lucy. There is no better way to refresh childhood memories of the lives of saints than to view them through these illustrations.

While the Scrovegni Chapel and the Basilica of Saint Anthony are the most famous sights in Padova, the city has much more to offer. Next week, in Part Two, the introduction to Padova continues.

A Morning in Padova's Market

When I first visited Italy, nearly 30 years ago, I hoped to attend a cooking class.  I had been studying Italian cookbooks (especially those by Marcella Hazan) and wanted more than anything to cook in Italy, using local ingredients, with a teacher who could show me how to make authentic Italian dishes.  Unfortunately, the cost of the week-long classes just did not fit my budget.  Instead, I came to Italy determined to taste regional dishes, shop local markets, and take lots of notes.  Or, as someone said to me, “So, you’re going to Italy to eat?”  Well, yes.  That pretty much summed up my intention.

My first bite of prosciutto with melon was a revelation!

 I learned so much on that trip, in large part through food experiences.  Restaurant dining introduced me to many dishes – sweet melon wrapped in salty proscuitto, a delicate risotto with saffron, fish straight from the lake, tiny wild blueberries atop gelato, pasta fatto a mano (homemade). The flavors and preparation methods were enlightening.  As good as the restaurant meals were, it was the Italian markets which really enchanted me.  Fresh produce artfully displayed, pan-ready trimmed artichokes floating in lemon water, perfectly ripe melons.  I marveled at the fishmongers in Venice who arranged their products in photo-worthy displays and at the shops in Florence filled with hanging legs of prosciutto, a vast array of cheeses, and cases of colorful filled pastas.  How I longed for a kitchen on that trip!

Fresh pasta at the Sant’Ambrogio market in Florence

 Since that time I have sought out markets whenever, and wherever, I’ve traveled.  They form some of my most vivid travel memories.  The best ones are the “mamma’s markets”, catering to locals rather than tourists.  Two of my favorites over years of travel are the weekly market in Uzes France (oh those olives!) and the Sant’Ambrogio market in Florence.   

Italy is not the only country with fabulous markets. This one in Uzes, France is among my favorites.

 My most recent market experience was in Padova (Padua) where I was delighted to find a fabulous daily market.  The outdoor market, centrally located in Piazze delle Erbe and Piazza della Frutta, was a wonderland of fresh fruits and vegetables.  Multiple vendors set up stalls each morning filled with just about everything a cook could desire -  baskets of bright lettuces, mounds of greenish-purple artichokes, piles of vibrant oranges, rows of tomatoes in different shapes and sizes, fat stalks of asparagus, dark purple eggplants, dried beans, herbs, and even flowers.  

Spending a morning there was a joy.  In the afternoon the market stalls disappeared and the piazza became a social hub of cafes, bars and casual restaurants. 

Beautiful blossoms in the Padova market

 In addition to the outdoor market stalls, an adjoining indoor market lies beneath the Palazzo della Ragione.  The culinary fun continued here with a host of shops selling fish, meats, prosciutto, bread, pastries, cheeses, and a variety of prepared foods.  There was even a rare sight in Italy – a “to go” coffee bar.   

There is so much to appreciate in Padova – stunning frescoes, historic churches, architecture, historical buildings, parks (I will get to all of these in another post) but never underestimate the power of a good market to add a fun experience when exploring a new city. 

Italian Baptisteries

A baptistery can be an area, often a small chapel, inside a church where the baptismal ceremony is held. It might have a simple font holding holy water, a more elaborate basin or a much larger basin for baptism by immersion.

A baptistery (battistero in Italian) may also be a completely separate building next to a church. This arrangement is quite common in Italy’s historic churches where the battistero may be just as elaborate, if not more so, then the church itself. Colorful frescoes, beautiful paintings and statues, and ornately carved baptismal basins make these wonderful places to visit. I try to seek them out whenever I head to a new Italian city.

Pisa’s baptistry lies across the Field of Miracles, opposite the Leaning Tower.

Baptistery buildings tend to have several things in common, beginning with either a round or, more symbolically, an octagonal shape. The eight sides of the octagon represent the 8th day, which in Christian theology is the day in which new life begins. Baptisteries also are most often named for San Giovanni. This is of course because San Giovanni (St. John in English) was known as San Giovanni Battista (St. John the Baptist). He performed the rite of baptism even before Christian times as a form of purification. He later became one of the 12 apostles.

Florence’s Baptistery with its beautiful marble facade.

Florence, baptistery ceiling

Some baptisteries are well-known and are on the “must-see” list for visitors to Italy, others are outside of major tourist cities and often (sadly) less visited. In Tuscany the major ones include the Baptistery in Florence and the one in Pisa. Each is unique in its own way. The Baptistery in Florence has the classic octagonal shape. The exterior is clad in white and green marble and is famous for its 3 sets of brass doors - one by Pisano and two by Ghiberti. The interior is a study in contrasts - solemn below and glorious up above.

The baptistery in Pisa, on the opposite side of the cathedral as the more famous Torre Pendente (Leaning Tower), is quite different. Round in shape, it is fairly plain on the inside. Perhaps its most notable feature is the acoustics. Step inside and sing a few notes, you’ll be amazed at the echo and the sound quality.

As wonderful as these two Tuscan baptisteries are, the one I really love is in Emilia Romagna, in the city of Parma.

Detail from a fresco, Battistero di San Giovanni, Parma

The baptistery sits beside the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Asunta, Parma’s Duomo.  And while the church itself is lovely, it is the baptistry which steals the show.   

Battistero di San Giovanni, Parma

The exterior is octagonal, clad in pale pink marble.  Around the bottom are a series of sculptures which include a host of animals – real and mythical – plus zodiac symbols and the four virtues (Chastity. Charity, Faith, Hope). Reaching to the sky are four levels of arches loggia, then a ring of closed arches and, finally, the top with several small pinnacles. The doors are elaborate and flanked by columns of the same pink marble, carvings rest in the arches above each door.

Pink Verona Marble faces the baptistery in Parma. Note the carved animal panels.

Stepping inside is to enter a medieval world full of symbolism, religious storytelling, and powerful artistic expression.   The larger of two baptismal founts, this one of pink marble, sits in the middle.  .  The walls are divided into 16 shallow niches, each with vibrant frescoes.  Sculptures represent the seasons and months of the year.

Interior of Parma’s baptistery

Standing beneath the umbrella like ceiling is nothing short of spectacular.  It is divided by 16 “ribs” which frame individual scenes. There are six bands which circle the dome, each with a different focus.  There is the story of Abraham and that of John the Baptist.  A bit higher is Christ, Mary and the Prophets.  Higher still, the Apostles.  Finally, a band of stars and the red center (the color red symbolizes love) representing heaven. 

The unique ribbed ceiling in Parma’s baptistery. Each band tells a story.

There is so much to see here that a lifetime could be spent studying all the images and symbolism.  My short visit provided just an introduction and, before my next visit, I will be reading more about this historic and evocative place. I’m not sure where in Italy I will travel next, but wherever I wander I hope to find another fascinating baptistery.

Masked visitors look up in wonder at the ceiling of the baptistery in Parma. (November 2021)