All The Right Ingredients: Extra Virgin Cooking Classes in Lucca, Italy

One of the good things about having friends visit me in Lucca is the chance to recommend activities that I think will enhance their experience, things that may not be found in the guidebooks. Sometimes my suggestions include a visit to a “secret” garden, a hidden away little church, a walk beneath Lucca’s walls, or a local festival.

Another activity I like to recommend - and one of the most fun things to do when visiting Italy - is a cooking class with a local chef. Recently I had the pleasure of spending the day, along with some visiting friends, with Chef Giuseppe Mazzocchi at Extra Virgin Cooking Classes (EVCC) in Lucca. And what a day it was!

Tuscan cooking, and Tuscan olive oil, come naturally to Chef Giuseppe. I guess that is what happens when you are born and raised at your grandfather’s olive mill in a small Tuscan village! Giuseppe began to cook alongside his family and many of the recipes he shares come straight from his nonna (grandmother). More than being a talented chef and teacher, Giuseppe has a love for local culinary traditions and flavors that make his classes a wonderful window into Tuscan life.

Just one detail from the elegant dining table at EVCC (designed by the talented Liz)

If Giuseppe is the heart of the kitchen, then it is his partner Liz who lends elegance to the dining experience. Together they welcome you into their home, invite you into their kitchen, and, once the cooking is done, present an absolutely gorgeous table setting at which to enjoy lunch. Liz’s table settings are picture-worthy touches of luxury.

The class day began in Lucca’s historic center with stops at several small shops to gather supplies. Visits to an historic pastry shop, a fabulous bread baker, and the city’s best fruit and vegetable shop provided a fun start to a morning of cooking.

Then it was into the kitchen, a spacious, well-equipped, and charming workspace inside an historic Lucca home. I had a serious case of kitchen envy, especially for the long farmhouse work table, which I swear was larger than my entire kitchen.

Before we got to work cooking, Giuseppe led us through some tastings. First, three different types of extra virgin olive oil, including a local Tuscan oil. Next, a sampling of pecorino cheeses from fresh to aged to really aged, along with a local chestnut honey which perfectly complimented the cheese. There just may have been some sipping of Prosecco while we tasted. Shh. Don’t tell (usually I wait until afternoon for a Prosecco).

The menu this day started with a raw artichoke salad with a lemony dressing. The shaved artichoke rested on a base of the prettiest greens I’ve ever seen, including a variegated radicchio.

Now that’s a salad !

We had fun learning how to make, and then shape, the gnudi. Gnudi are interesting. They are essentially the filling for a ravioli, ricotta with chard (or spinach) and parmesan, but without being enclosed in a pasta shell. An egg white and some rice flour bind the soft gnudi together and then they are shaped using two spoons to form an oval that will hold together during a brief dance in some boiling water. We also made a quickly cooked tomato sauce which went over the gnudi at the end. The result was a tasty and light as air dish.

Next up - a fragrant risotto with leeks and just the right amount of truffle butter. If only I could share the scent here - it was intoxicating. We even learned the chef’s secret for preparing a risotto without the constant stirring.

Leek and truffle risotto alongside gnudi in tomato sauce

How gorgeous is this berry topped panna cotta? It tasted as good as it looked!

Dessert had been prepared ahead of time for us - a beautiful heart shaped panna cotta with a berry sauce.

Together we plated the panna cotta, topped them with berries, and added a garnish of chopped of fresh mint.

Just when we didn’t think we could eat another bite, cups of espresso came with tiny bites of sweet pastry. Somehow we managed!

After a fun morning preparing food, it was a treat to sit down to lunch at a beautiful table (thank you Liz) and share the meal we had prepared.

Lunch was accompanied by local wines, good conversation, and lots of laughter.

We all agreed that we had spent a perfect day in Giuseppe’s kitchen. We left with recipes, a EVCC apron, and good memories of a day well spent. And we all started planning our return.

Contact info: Extra Virgin Cooking Classes in Lucca with Chef Giuseppe Mazzocchi

Email: tuscancook@gmail.com

Oxen, Doves, and Exploding Carts: Florence’s Unique Easter Celebration

Celebrating the season of Easter (Pasqua in Italian) in Italy is always a treat. The pageantry, the traditions, the medieval flair add up to a uniquely Italian celebration.

Holy week begins with Palm Sunday (Domenica delle Palme) mass where, here in Lucca, olive branches are handed out (much easier to obtain than palms).  Olive branches represent peace and hope, an especially poignant symbol this year with war raging not so far away in Ukraine.

Good Friday (Venerdì Santo) is marked in many Italian cities by deeply moving processions.  In Lucca, this provides instant transport back to the Middle Ages as robe clad and barefoot penitents carry a heavy wooden crucifix through the city’s ancient cobbled streets. 

Venerdì Santo procession, Lucca 2022

Traditions vary from city to city, but perhaps the most interesting and unique Easter Sunday celebration, the Scoppio del Carro (rough translation, the Explosion of the Cart) occurs in Florence.  Each year a cart, called a Brindellone – the suffix “one” gives a hint that this is no ordinary cart but a really, really big one – is pulled through the streets of Florence by a team of white oxen, all dressed up with flower garlands on their heads and red bows on their tails.  

The brindellone towers several stories high and is packed full of fireworks (top photo).  

The procession, which winds its way through the center of town, ends in front of Florence’s marble clad Duomo. The brindellone is escorted by a legion of costumed flag bearers, drummers, guards with plumed hats and swords, and dignitaries.

 The next step involves historic flints, a candle, and some coal.  

The ancient “fire holder” and flints are kept in the church of SS Apostoli. (photo from church website)

Legend says that the flints are from the tomb of Jesus and were awarded to a young Florentine who participated in the crusades. Today the flints reside in the SS Apostoli church.  On Easter, a spark from the flints lights a candle which plays an important in the Easter ceremony.  This is just the beginning.

 Next comes the dove.  Not a real dove but a white metallic “rocket” dove.  The dove (La Colombina in Italian) begins its Easter journey from inside the Duomo.  During mass, using the candle which was lit by the flints, the archbishop lights the dove which travels along a wire, flying through the cathedral and out to the cart where it sets off the explosion of fireworks.  All the while bells ring from the campanile (bell tower) of the church.  Imagine that!

A successful flight of the dove confers good luck for the upcoming growing season and harvest. Should the dove go astray and fail on its mission - well lets not even consider that possibility. The world has had enough trouble lately without this happening! Luckily this year the dove soared down the wire, pausing briefly mid-flight, and then hit its mark. The cart exploded and sent sparks and smoke into the sky.

I had heard of this unique Easter celebration, but I had never experienced it in person.  So this year, along with some visiting friends, it was off to Florence for Easter weekend.  A trip to Florence is always wonderful, and the experience of the Scoppio del Carro was especially fun, even on a cold and windy Easter morning.  Add in a lovely Easter luncheon, and some time with friends, and this event was the perfect beginning to an Italian spring.

A Lucchese April

April can be a fickle month here in Lucca. After a few warm days in late March, the kind of days that almost trick you into packing away the winter sweaters, April barged in with colder days, wind, cloudy skies, and rain. The rain is much needed after a dry winter, so I won’t complain. And if the saying is true, and April showers really do bring May flowers, then Lucca should have a most colorful May.

This stand of white wisteria was an early bloomer this spring

Despite the early April chill, the days are growing longer, the first leaves have appeared on the trees, and the first blossoms throughout town hold the promise that warm spring weather will soon arrive.

Verde Mura is the perfect place to buy pots of herbs for the garden.

Perhaps the best harbinger of spring is the return, after a two year COVID-related pause, of Lucca’s spring garden festival - the Verde Mura. This wonderful event showcases all things needed to plant and tend a garden. It doesn’t matter if your garden is just a few pots on a terrace, a couple of window boxes, or a large orto (vegetable garden), the Verde Mura has what you need. The festival takes place up on the walls that surround Lucca’s centro storico (historic center) which means that the views are part of the fun.

Garden art at Verde Mura

Local gardeners pull wagons through the many booths, collecting everything from rose bushes to fruit trees to annual flowers and herbs. Need a tractor? Well, Verde Mura has just the one. Same with shovels, clay pots, bug sprays, fertilizer, seeds, and outdoor grills. In addition to these garden necessities, this is the place to find whimsical garden art, herbal products (soaps, teas, spices, syrups), fragrant spices, and a variety of crafts.

It is always fun to see traditional craftsmen at work; I especially love watching the basket weavers and broom makers.

Of course there was food (this is Italy after all). In addition to booths serving coffee and sweets there were plenty of vendors of local meats, cheeses, honey, pasta, and breads - most offering an assaggio (a taste). One booth had mounds of beautiful spring artichokes, bundles of aspargus, pretty Tropea onions and ripe strawberries from the south of Italy.

There was even the cutest little wine truck!

A break in the rain allowed for a slow morning wander through the many booths and displays of plants.

I came home with some herbs which are now happily planted in my window boxes as well as a colorful bouquet of ranunculi for my apartment.

I may have needed a warm coat, a scarf, and a hat against the chill but there was still a hint of spring in the air. I am looking forward to seeing the season unfold.

An Introduction to Padova: Part Two

Padova is most famous for its churches. Visitors come to admire the small but spectacular Scrovegni Chapel and the even smaller Oratorio of St. George along with Padova’s baptistery. All three are filled with beautiful frescoes that bring Bible stories to life. In contrast to these small spaces is the grand Basilica of Saint Anthony with its Chapel of Reliquaries, tomb, beautiful main altar, and starry blue ceiling.

But Padova offers more than chapels, baptisteries and basilicas. It is definitely worth seeking out the city’s other attractions including markets, historic buildings, piazzas, pedestrian shopping streets, and attractive outdoor spaces. Getting around town is easy both on foot and with a modern tram system.

Here are some other possibilities when spending a few days in Padova:

Looking down on the city and the stalls of the daily market from the loggia of the Palazzo della Ragione, Padova.

The Palazzo della Ragione sits atop the busy food hall and overlooks the markets in Piazza delle Erbe and Piazza della Frutta.

Loggia, Palazzo della Ragione, Padova

 In medieval times the Palazzo della Ragione served as the Hall of Justice.  Outside is a loggia with beautifully painted arches.  Inside the space is cavernous with a wooden “upturned ship’s hull” shaped roof and a gigantic wooden horse. An intriguing series of frescoes, based on astrology, wraps around the interior of the palazzo.  The frescoes represent months, planets, and signs of the zodiac.  It’s fun to view the seasons in sequence, see how the art reflects the essence of each month, and find how one’s own birth sign is represented.

The pietra del vituperio (stone of shame), where debtors sat before being driven from the city, is still in place at one end of the great hall.  History says that Saint Anthony proposed a seat on this stone as an alternative to harsher punishments.

Imagine sitting here in shame as punishment for debts.

Two of the outdoor spaces in Padova, the Prato della Valle and the Orto Botanico (Botanic Gardens), are delightful.

Prato della Valle, Padova

The Prato della Valle is a large open space not far from the Basilica of Saint Anthony. It was once the field in which the saint preached.  Today it is the “central park” of Padova. The Prato (which means lawn in Italian) is encircled by a canal which is crossed by small stone footbridges. The park is also dotted with statues and fountains.  It’s a pleasant area full of people - mothers pushing prams, couples sitting in the sun, retirees out for a walk, bicyclers and walkers enjoying a stroll.

The Orto Botanico is also close to the Basilica of St. Anthony. It is a large space with a series of gardens, plants from around the world, and educational displays.  Founded in the 1500’s as a garden for medicinal plants and herbs, it has been in this very spot ever since.  There are fountains to be enjoyed and wonderful views throughout the spaces of the botanic garden.

A visit to Padova, including all of the above places plus some time for shopping and wandering, can easily fill three days.  Add in a trip to the central daily market and some great dining and three days fly by. I am looking forward to a future return trip, perhaps combined with a few days in Verona or Venice.

An Introduction to Padova: Part One

It is not uncommon for visitors to northern Italy to make stops in Milan and Lake Como, heading next to Venice.  It’s a wonderful itinerary but leaves out some of the less-visited cities in the Veneto region. One of these cities is Padova (Padua), which lies just a short train ride from Venice. It’s easy to spend a full day in Padova as part of a visit to Venice but it is even better to take a few days and really get to know this interesting city.   As a bonus, Padova is less expensive than major tourist destinations (including Venice), has fewer tourists (there were almost none during my off-season early March visit), is a friendly university town, and has some great food!  The URBS Picta card (sometimes referred to as The Padova Card) includes admission to a number of major sites and is a helpful adjunct in organizing a visit.

The Scrovegni Chapel. Simplicity on the exterior, glorious within.

Detail, Scrovegni Chapel

 Visitors to Padova are most often drawn to the city by its two major sights, the Scrovegni Chapel and the Basilica of Saint Anthony.  It was the Scrovegni Chapel, filled with frescoes by the artist Giotto, that drew me to Padova earlier this month. The small chapel is a masterpiece of medieval art. Giotto, already a well-know artist, worked on the Scrovegni Chapel from 1303 – 1305, creating frescoes that demonstrate the revolution in artistic expression for which he is celebrated.  As in most churches of the time, the frescoes tell stories from the bible and the life of Christ.  They are arranged in a series of panels which wrap around the walls of the small chapel. The Scrovegni Chapel is an important site for those interested in the art of this period and the works of Giotto. Admittance is limited and must be reserved in advance. The Scovegni is such a wonder that it deserves a post all its own, with lots of photos. Coming soon!

The chapel grounds also contain the Eremitani Civic Museum. It is quite large with a wide variety of exhibits. Etruscan and Egyptian artifacts fill the main floor. Interesting, but less so than what comes next.

The upper floor is the real star - the Pinacoteca (Gallery of Paintings). It is filled with an outstanding collection of art by Italian masters. Not to be missed is Giotto’s painted wooden crucifix, moved to the museum from the Scrovegni Chapel.

Among my personal favorites were the fierce angels painted by Guariento in the 14th century (below, top row) and the portraits by Ginevra Cantofoli done in the 17th century. Female artists were relatively few in that time period, so it is always good to see the work of one prominently displayed. Contofoli’s portraits are especially lovely (below, bottom row).

The second major site in Padova is the Basilica of Saint Anthony (Sant’Antonio di Padova). The basilica is an important site for those who come to seek the saint’s help.  St. Anthony is known to aid in finding lost things, protecting travelers, and for blessing women who wish to become pregnant.  It’s even said that he can help find a lost love.  Many believers come in pilgrimage to give thanks for prayers answered or to visit the chapel of the relics.

 I have always been amazed – and perhaps a bit disconcerted – by the concept of a relic.  In the case of Saint Anthony, the relics found in the ornate Chapel of the Reliquaries (within the basilica) include the jaw bone (complete with teeth), the tongue, and the vocal cords of the saint.  Worshippers, along with the merely curious, visit the chapel to see vestments worn by the saint along with his wooden coffin.  Then they climb the steps to the ornate wall displaying his head rest (no soft pillow here, this head rest is made of stone), the three relics, and other artifacts.

Chapel of the Reliquaries, Basilica of St. Anthony, Padova

 The tomb of Saint Anthony lies in a separate chapel within the basilica. This large side chapel is near to the tiny section of the basilica which was the original chapel (before the basilica was built) and where the saint was first buried.  His tomb was later opened and his body moved into the larger basilica. The tomb is surrounded by beautifully carved renaissance era marble panels representing scenes from the saint’s life, topped by an intricate gold ceiling, and elevated on a marble altar.  Worshippers pass behind the ornate altar to touch the tomb, in prayer or in thanks for blessings received.

The basilica complex also includes cloisters and the small but interesting Oratorio di San Giorgio (Oratory of Saint George). The oratory has frescoes detailing the lives, and martyrdom, of Saints George, Catherine, and Lucy. There is no better way to refresh childhood memories of the lives of saints than to view them through these illustrations.

While the Scrovegni Chapel and the Basilica of Saint Anthony are the most famous sights in Padova, the city has much more to offer. Next week, in Part Two, the introduction to Padova continues.