Uva Fragola

Chianti Classico Wines - mostly Sangiovese grapes

Fall is harvest season in Italy.   First comes the vendemmia, the grape harvest, followed by the raccolta delle olive (olive harvest).  Both have important significance economically and culturally.  Participating in either is a combination of hard work and great fun.

 Many varieties of grapes are grown in Italy and produce excellent wines.  The names are familiar – Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Trebbiano, Lambrusco, Pinot Grigio and Vermentino to name a few.   All of those grapes are cultivated varieties of the Vitis Vinifera species.

And then there is the Uva Fragola (Strawberry Grape). It is a different species all together, the Vitis Labrusca. Not just that, but (gasp!) it is an American grape imported into Italy in part due to its resistance to the Phylloxera insect. This is a bit controversial as some sources say it is that very resistance to Phylloxera which allowed the American grapes to carry the insect to Europe where it devastated less resistant Italian vines.  Which story is true?  I don’t know nearly enough about grapes to offer an opinion.

 What I do know is that the Uva Fragola is not a respected wine grape. In fact, the EU bans it for commercial wine production due to high levels of methane, a poison, that occur in the distillation process.  There may be some home made Fragolino about if you are brave enough to drink it. Despite not being used in wine production, the grape is still grown in Italy where it is appreciated for its unique quality - grape with an underlying strawberry flavor. 

One interesting surprise for me was finding that the Uva Fragola is actually a type of Concord Grape.  Yes, this type of grape is the source of the Welch’s Grape Jam that topped all my peanut butter sandwiches when I was a kid.  A jam I abandoned as I grew up in favor of more interesting flavors.  I have to believe that, like most things (and people) transplanted to Italy, the American Concord Grape was transformed by the Italian soil, air, water, and perhaps even the music of the language.  The Italian Uva Fragola is delicious!

September is Uva Fragola season. The big, plump, purple grapes are used in several ways.

The grapes make wonderful jams and jellies. 

I was fortunate to receive a jar made from last year’s crop, a just-sweet-enough jam filled with bits of grape.  It was nothing like the Welch’s Grape of my childhood.

This was grape jam for grownups!

Another traditional use of the Uva Fragola is in a focaccia dolce, a grape studded bread glazed with sugar. It’s a simple, straightforward snack, perfect alongside a cup of coffee, and a great use for the September grape crop.

My favorite way to consume Uva Fragola is as gelato.  I was happy when a local gelateria advertised their September-only special of Uva Fragola gelato, made using local Tuscan grapes.  With its rich color and berry flavor it is the perfect end of summer treat.  With such a short season, one must take advantage with at least a weekly gelato serving, right?

Uva Fragola grapes grown right here in the historic center of Lucca.

Last week, a friend in Lucca invited me to snip some of the ripe bunches of Uva Fragola grapes that grow along the terrace above his apartment.  I was more than happy to help with his small harvest but wasn’t quite sure what I would do with so many grapes. 

I decided to make a syrup to drizzle over soft cheese, gelato, or perhaps pancakes.  I didn’t have an exact recipe, but used a proportion of grapes to sugar suggested in a jam recipe I found on line. I just didn’t add the pectin that the recipe called for.  In a happy accident, I reduced the grape syrup enough that it thickened into more of a jelly than a syrup even without adding pectin.  Perfect on my morning toast and still good as a topping for cheese.

Here's how I made the jelly:

Remove the Uva Fragola grapes from the stems, rinse them and discard any green ones. Hint: twisting the grapes from the stem instead of pulling them avoids that little bit of stem that can cling to the grape.  Twisting also opens the skin at the top of the grape which helps them soften as they cook.

To 700 grams of grapes add 200 grams (1 cup) of sugar and 3 tablespoons of water in a heavy bottom pot.

Heat the mixture over a low to medium flame, stirring frequently, until the sugar dissolves and the mixture begins to bubble gently.

Reduce the flame to low and cook for 1 hour, stirring and scrapping down the sides of the pot every once in a while.  Be sure the flame is low enough that the mixture doesn’t stick to the bottom of the pot. The kitchen will smell wonderful at this point!

After cooking for one hour, crush the grapes in the pan to release all the juices and then strain to remove the skins, leaving only the juice behind.   A food mill would work here, but I don’t have one so I just crushed the grapes well with a wooden spoon to squeeze out the juices.

Return the juice to the pan, bring to a simmer, and cook on low.  Less time would result in a syrup, 45 minutes and I got jelly.  Isn’t kitchen chemistry fun!   My 700 grams of grapes made one 6 oz jar of jelly.

September in Lucca

September is one of my favorite months in Italy.  It starts out as summer – hot and humid – and then slowly transforms itself into autumn. By late September the mornings and evenings are cool enough that sweaters and scarves make their first appearance of the season. The cooler weather is perfect for a passeggiata, the Italian tradition of an evening stroll, yet still pleasant enough for sitting outdoors at a cafe.  The AC (if one is lucky enough to have it) has been turned off and the windows are open, letting in cool breezes and the hint of fall that is in the air.

Late September skies are beautiful and the weather is pleasant.

 In Lucca, September is a unique month. It even has a special name -  Settembre Lucchese.  It is a month of festivals, artisan markets, concerts, and celebrations. 

This year September kicked off with Murabilia, the annual fall garden show.  Murabilia has everything for the fall garden, from plants to yard art to terracotta pots.  For inside the home there are delicate orchids, fall gourds, and pretty linens.  Artisans demonstrate and sell their crafts and food stands offer local products – meats, cheese, breads, garlic, and flavored syrups.  

September also brings the Palio della Santa Croce. The Palio is has its roots in medieval times as members of the three contrade (districts) in the historic center of Lucca engage in a crossbow competition. The event starts with a procession of musicians, flag throwers, costumes, and the very medieval looking archers.  The procession weaves its way through Lucca, stopping to perform in some of the piazzas, eventually making their way to the area behind the Cathedral of San Martino where this year’s competition took place.

September’s most important event, The Luminaria of Santa Croce, takes place every year on the evening of September 13th.   The luminaria is in honor of Lucca’s most important ancient artifact, the wooden crucifix known as the Volto Santo (Holy Face). 

The legend of the Volto Santo is this: it was crafted by Nicodemus who fell asleep before carving the face.  When he awoke, he found that the face had been miraculously completed. The legend continues with a journey across the sea to the coast of Italy and then a trip by oxcart to Lucca more than 1000 years ago.  Both journeys are considered miracles as, according to the legend, the ship and the oxcart where unmanned and divinely guided to Lucca. The crucifix became a stop on the pilgrim’s route to Rome. It remains a venerated religious object to this day, drawing modern day pilgrims to Lucca. 

The crucifix usually rests in a small chapel within the Cathedral of San Martino where the figure of Christ is dressed in a gold vestments during the festival. This year was a bit different as the crucifix is undergoing restoration.  It has been moved from its small chapel to an area inside the cathedral where it is possible to watch the restoration in progress.   

During the luminaria procession religious and civic groups move through the candlelit streets of Lucca.  The Volto Santo is represented by a cloth image held aloft. Each year there is a large cross made of flowers. Participants hold candles and prayers are chanted along the route. It is a beautiful and moving event with both religious and cultural meaning.

Settembre Lucchese came to a close this year with the Festival of San Michele (St. Michael the Archangel).  A special mass was held in the Basilica of San Michele, one of Lucca’s historic churches.  A concert, on the evening of September 23rd, filled the church with music by the Polifonica Lucchese and the Boccherini Orchestra. The fullness of the music, along with beautiful voices in the setting of a historic church, combined to create a very special evening.

 September is an ideal time to visit Lucca. It is not too early to begin planning for a September 2024 visit !

By the third week of September the temperatures are cool enough for a late morning walk along Lucca’s shady walls.

Changing Seasons in Tuscany: Autumn into Winter

Sometimes the calendar plays tricks.  October, an autumn month, seemed more like late summer in Tuscany this year.  The temperatures were mild, there was plenty of sunshine, and outdoor cafes were still in full swing.  It was hard to even imagine cold weather.

Blue skies and fall color along Lucca’s walls.

Colorful umbrellas brighten dreary days.

But then the end of daylight savings time arrived, bringing shorter days and early nightfall. By mid-November temperatures were much cooler and the rains began.  This should not have been a surprise, November is typically a very wet month, but it still seemed to catch us all off guard.

Out came the colorful umbrellas, making the city cheerful despite some dark, drizzly days. It finally felt like fall. 

Now, just two weeks later, it is still officially autumn, at least until the winter solstice arrives on December 21. But it feels like winter.  The days just keep getting shorter and it is cold! Really cold. And though this transition happens every year, somehow this year it seems more of a shock.  

There is no room for complaint.  The fall color is gorgeous.  The fog and rain have a mysterious beauty.  Italy needs the rain. The umbrellas are colorful.  The cold air is invigorating and walking atop the walls of Lucca at dusk on a chilly evening is inspiring. Crisp late autumn beauty is everywhere.

Cranberries are nearly impossible to find in an Italian market. These were expensive, but worth it for a traditional apple cranberry Thanksgiving pie.

Late November brought “American-ish” Thanksgiving celebrations.  They began with a minor miracle - I actually found fresh cranberries in Italy! Hard to find here, they are an essential ingredient when I make an apple-cranberry pie and it just doesn’t feel like Thanksgiving without that pie!

On Thanksgiving day, a small gathering at the home of friends was a joy. There were prosecco filled glasses, a wonderful dinner with a not-quite-traditional (but very delicious) stuffed chicken breast, all the traditional trimmings, and lots of laughter. 

We were all reminded of the many blessings we have found here in Italy.  And while I always miss my family back in the US at this time of year, I appreciate that they remain with me in spirit and that modern technology helps keep us connected.  Not to mention that soon a big jet will whisk me off for a visit to NM where I can hug them in person!

 And now Lucca is gearing up for the winter holiday season.  Chestnuts are roasting and all around town Christmas decorations are going up.  This year it seems the city of Lucca is going all out, with some new and exciting displays filling the piazzas with Christmas spirit. 

 For the next few weeks I will happily don my winter clothing to go outdoors. I will spend time walking up on the walls and through town, crunching through the last of the fall leaves, enjoying the holiday lights and sparkle, watching the ice skaters in Piazza Napoleone, visiting churches with lovely Nativity displays, and enjoying the change of seasons from autumn to winter.    

A chilly autumn afternoon on the walls of Lucca.

An Autumn Weekend in Pontremoli

For 5 days at the end of October and beginning of November my Italian hometown of Lucca hosts the huge Lucca Comics and Games event.   Picture 75,000+ people a day descending on the small, walled city and a series of white tents lining the historic walls and filling the piazzas.   It is an important economic event for the city and a big deal for afficionados of costumes, gaming, anime, superheroes and the like.  Lots of people love it, but for some of us it is simply crowds and chaos.  This year, after two pandemic years in which the festival was cancelled (2020) or scaled back (2021), the crowds were predicted to be bigger than ever.  That made it the perfect time to for me to plan an out-of-town escape. 

One of Pontremoli’s small alleyways - an invitation to explore!

 This year my “escape from comics” destination was suggested by Nancy, one of Two Parts Italy’s readers. Just as I was trying to decide where to go over comics, I received a lovely email from her asking if I’d ever been to Pontremoli.  She went on to say that she had just spent several days there and thought it was just the kind of place I would love.  She included photos and recommendations for things to do.  What serendipity!  I had never been to Pontremoli and receiving that email was all the inspiration I needed.  I quickly found that I could get to Pontremoli by train from Lucca in under 2 hours.  I found a lovely Airbnb apartment to rent and a friend who was ready to share the adventure.  The more I read about the town, the more excited I was to visit. I am so glad that Nancy took the time to write to me!

Pontremoli is a village in the Massa-Carrara Province of Tuscany, population around 7000.  The town lies in the historical region of the Lunigiana, which straddles the regions of Tuscany and Liguria.  It is a region of mountains, forests, rivers, old towers, castles, and small medieval hamlets.  The Via Francigena, the pilgrim’s route between Canterbury and Rome, crosses the area including right through Pontremoli. 

Pontremoli’s historic center as seen from one of the foot bridges over the Torrente Verde

 Like many of the medieval towns in the region, Pontremoli has a well-preserved centro storico (historic center) which feels a world apart from the more modern town beyond.  The centro storico is wedged between two rivers, the Torrente Verde and the Fiume Magra.  The rivers are crossed by a series of old stone bridges.  Ponte is the Italian word for bridge and Pontremoli means trembling bridge.  Perhaps the original, ancient wooden bridges trembled, but today the bridges are rock solid. 

Several of the bridges are for foot traffic only. Strolling across them gives views of the green riverbanks, parks, medieval buildings, and the Castello del Piagnaro which sits high above the village. 

My companion and I quickly settled into the habit of a daily walk across the Ponte della Cresa to the north, down the green space along the Torrente Verde, across the Ponte Stemma on the south, and to the tip of Pontremoli where the Torrente Verde joins the Fiume Magra, forming one larger river. A green and peaceful park sits at this spot, quiet other than the sound of the tumbling waters of the two rivers. 

During this October visit the trees where changing colors and the fallen leaves made for a special landscape during our walks.

The Torre del Cacciaguerra, Pontremoli

 The historic center stretches between two tower gates along what is basically one long street, although the street name changes several times from Via Cavour to Via Armani to Via Garibaldi. 

Along the way are two side-by-side piazzas, the Piazza della Repubblica and the Piazza del Duomo.  Long ago the two piazzas divided the town between two opposing groups, the Guelphs and Ghibellines, preventing all-out conflict. 

A very tall campanile (bell tower), built in 1322 as part of a city fortress, stands between the two piazzas and is known by two names – The Campanone (meaning really big bell tower) and the Torre del Cacciaguerra (Tower of the War Fighters). 

Today there are no warring factions and the two pretty squares are ringed with cafes and shops. The piazzas are also where the Saturday market is held. Visiting a local Saturday market is a great cultural experience in any small village and the one in Pontremoli was no exception. Local produce, especially from the fall harvest, made for a colorful market.

The route to the castle

 Off the main street are several alleys which climb up towards the castle.  The walk is uphill but not terribly steep and the experience of wandering through the medieval castle village is well worth the climb.  The castle also houses a museum with pre-historic rock carvings called Stele.  More on the castle and the Stele in a future post !

 Pontremoli was a perfect fall getaway and wonderful spot for a long weekend.  Views over the river, the sound of rushing water, green spaces, changing leaves, and stone bridges made for a perfect weekend escape.

Adding to the fun, we found some wonderful restaurants serving local dishes such as Testaroli (a type of large round crepe) with Pesto and Frittelle di Farina di Castagna (little fried chestnut flour cakes) con Ricotta. 

For morning coffee and a pastry, the Antica Pasticceria e Caffè degli Svizzeri with its scrumptious pastries and beautiful liberty-style café, can’t be beat. 

Where the Torrente Verde joins the Fiume Magra

Agriturismo Cretaiole and Luciano's Farm

Some places, and some people, are special.  Agriturismo Cretaiole is one such place and Luciano Moricciani, its founder, is the special person who started it all.  Son Carlo and grandson Nicco, both of whom are pretty special too, have taken over much of the day-to-day operations at the Cretaiole with the help of the delightful Fernanda who is a whiz at organizing everything for guests. But it is Luciano, at 82 years of age, who remains the steady hand, keeper of history, and the warm heart behind the agriturismo and farm.  

Agriturismo Cretaiole - a classic Tuscan stone farmhouse with beautiful accommodations for up to 20 guests.

 I’ve written about Cretaiole before – after my first visit in 2016 and again in 2020. The 2020 visit took place during the pandemic when no other tourists were around. At that time, Carlo kindly allowed my friend and I to stay and participate in the olive harvest.  The quiet of that visit was quite a contrast to the laughter and activity during my first stay. For more info, the previous posts can be found here: www.twopartsitaly.com/2020/11/2/1erwrj2r1njhhb89nvw9j1b43wv5ic. www.twopartsitaly.com/2016/12/14/a-week-at-agriturismo-cretiaole

The living room / kitchen of the Il Granaio apartment at Cretaiole

This year the visitors have returned, many of whom waited nearly three years to reschedule pandemic cancelled trips.  They came for many reasons – the beauty of the Val d’Orcia, the excellent local wines, the peacefulness of Cretaiole’s setting. They also arrived to take part in the wonderful activities included in Cretaiole’s “Dolce Vita” package - pici making, truffle hunting, early morning hikes, group dinners, wine and olive oil tasting. And then there is “The Isabella Experience” which includes luxury linens and many special touches as well as the opportunity to visit all the small villages of the Val d’Orcia which are just a short drive from Cretaiole. 

And, as one guest told me, she came because she’d read about Luciano in several blog posts and had been waiting for 3 years to drink grappa with him! 

 One of the highlights of a Cretaiole stay is a chance to visit Luciano’s farm, Podere San Gregorio, just 10 minutes from Cretaiole.  During my October visit Luciano was recovering from a fall but he was still enthusiastic about walking the farm with us.  He is the person most involved with the animals including sheep, chickens, geese, guinea fowl, one goat, a friendly dog, and some very large pigs.  The sheep are pretty much pets but the pigs are the source of some of the farm’s specialties – prosciutto and salami – all prepared on-site. 

The farm tour includes a stop at the barn where some of the oldest farm tools can be seen and where fascinating tales of the old ways of picking olives and harvesting wheat are told by both Luciano and grandson Nicco.  It is easy to imagine the young Luciano scrambling up the trees on the rather rickety ladder that still hangs in the barn, basket at his waist, collecting olives and trying not to fall out of the tree (a common hazard in those days).

Luciano and me at Podere San Gregorio. I will present this photo on my return to claim a bottle of his Vin Santo.

Next stop: the building where the preparation of meats, sauces, and Vin Santo takes place.  A promise was made that anyone who returns to the farm and presents a photo of themselves with Luciano, hands on the Vin Santo casks, takes home a free bottle.  You can bet I have that photo saved, more because I hope to have another visit with Luciano then for the free bottle. Although that Vin Santo is really tasty!

 Behind the work room is the small room where the white grapes for vin santo are dried. The grapes were still quite moist in mid-October, having only been harvested two weeks before.  They tasted sweet and the aroma was wonderful.

 Besides the barn, garden, work rooms, and animals there is also the large space where the wine is made and the olive oil stored.  Next door is an aging room for pecorino cheese, prosciutto, and salami. The grape harvest had taken place a week or two before, the grapes pressed and the wine placed into the large vats to begin fermenting.  Huge piles of dried grape skins remained, waiting to be sent off to grappa makers.  The olive harvest will take place in late October / early November, so soon the olive oil tanks will be filled with the new 2022 oil.  I would like to go back even if just to buy some of the new oil.

 After the farm tour we all gathered around tables for a straight-from-the-farm lunch.  Slices of bread with Cretaiole olive oil (it is really, really good), local pecorino aged on the farm, platters of prosciutto and salami, caprese salad, and Cretaiole red wine (also quite good).  We finished with some of Luciano’s very special Vin Santo and cantucci for dipping. There may even have been a bit of grappa poured.

It was wonderful to have Luciano with us on the farm tour and again at Cretaiole’s group pici dinner.   He clearly enjoys sharing his stories and his farm with visitors.  He also enjoys talking with visitors and hearing the stories they tell (he speaks Italian and is also great at using google translate to speak with English speaking visitors).  He has a lifetime of experience as an authentic Tuscan contadino (farmer) but, even better, he shares the joy of his land, his family, his farm, and his heart.  Luciano is one very special part of the Cretaiole experience. 

Ti voglio bene Luciano!