The Mystery In Italian Details

Italy’s “big picture” is full of things to love - culture, art, architecture, music, food. Everywhere you turn there is something wonderful to be experienced. But sometimes, there is enchantment to be found in the smallest of details and in the little mysteries that no guide book can describe.

I am still amazed that after 3+ years of living in Lucca, I continue to find new small details to appreciate. The iron fixture near my apartment door that I noticed for the first time in April, the decorative brick arch just down the street, a small fountain tucked away in a rarely visited courtyard. Lucca presents a never ending series of discoveries!

Sometimes those little details are just noted in passing. Other times, a bit of mystery draws me back again and again, examining details, feeling intrigued, painting imaginary explanations in my mind. Often this occurs with some of Lucca’s many ruins and abandoned places. How I wish I could explore all the abandoned and locked churches, those ruined buildings with their encroaching vines and empty windows, the slowly decaying wooden doors.

Behind my apartment building lies one of those abandoned places. The mystery is why this one spot - a garage - lies abandoned. It is surrounded on all sides by restored buildings, in fact the rest of the attached building is painted a sunny yellow and is full of apartments, flower boxes, and pretty doors. A simple line of color separates the two spaces.

So why is this place, a garage with old wooden doors, chained shut and abandoned? And is the window above a sign that there might have once been a living space up there? Was it perhaps the home of a carriage driver for one of the surrounding palazzi? A rough apartment for a not-so-favorite relative? A storage space, hay for the horses? Who knows? Certainly not I. But I often find myself stopping to look at it, as if someday I expect the answer to come to me.

There is beauty in this abandoned structure, especially in the small details. My camera loves this space with its rusting bolts, peeling paint, and crumbling wood. I think I will be disappointed if ever anyone comes along and restores it. It is perfect just as it is, mysterious and aged.

Levanto: The Perfect Base for Exploring the Cinque Terre

I am still enjoying my August break, so I’m posting mostly photos again this week, all from the town of Levanto, my favorite base for exploring the Cinque Terre.

The harbor at Levanto. Ferries to the Cinque Terre and Portovenere call here.

Levanto is the first town just to the north of the Cinque Terre. It has many things in common with the 5 villages: beautiful views, a charming pedestrian center, good restaurants, a ferry dock with connections to the Cinque Terre villages.

Levanto (the locals pronounce it with the accent on the first syllable Lay-vanto) also has fewer crowds, lower prices, and a great stretch of sandy beach. There are gorgeous villas and gardens, an historic old town with winding lanes, a medieval loggia, ancient churches, and an easy hike to an old castle.

Although it is a definitely a beach town, somehow it feels more like a community, a place to settle in and relax. For me, this is in part because of the friendly welcome I always find at the charming B&B A Durmì where sisters Chiara and Elisa make you feel like part of their family. They have great rooms, the prettiest courtyard, and delicious breakfasts. All that and beach towels, umbrellas, and great recommendations for dining and local activities.

Or maybe it’s the small town activities, like the Infiorata Festival that took place during my June visit. A team of local women and children arranged a path of flower displays leading through town to the church in celebration of a religious holiday.

Of course there is also great food to be found in Levanto - seafood, pesto, and a local specialty of giant fried ravioli stuffed with herbs. It’s worth the effort to find wine bar La Compera. This is a small place tucked away in a hidden piazza, away from the tourist center. They serve amazing bruschetta and local delicacies along with a nice wine list and great cocktails. They even made “mocktails” for the kids!

Summer holidays + Levanto + the amazing coastline of Liguria = summer perfection!
Contacts: A Durmì Via Viviani 12 19015 Levanto SP email: info@adurmi.it

La Compera. Piazza della Compera 3. 19015 Levanto SP. email: lacompera@gmail.com

August Holidays in Italy

Italians head to the beach in August. This is a typical beach club in Bonassola.

It’s August, the Italian holiday month. Tradition says to close down the shops, take time off work, and head out of town.

Don’t be surprised to see the “chiuso per ferie” (closed for holiday) sign on a favorite restaurant or shop, especially mid-month for the Ferragosto public holiday.

The beach is a favorite destination, providing time to swim, relax, read, do crossword puzzles by the sea, or just refresh and cool off.

Think colorful beach umbrellas, boats on the horizon, and lots of bronzed bodies off all ages, sizes, and shapes - that is the unabashed Italian way. Isn’t it wonderful?

In that spirit, I am taking an August writing break. The next few posts will be mostly photos, many taken along Italy’s dramatic coastline. I hope they keep you cool and daydreaming of summer in Italy.

Today - Portofino, enclave of the rich and famous. The water is blue, the harbor charming, the surrounding cliffs dramatic, and the yachts the stuff of fantasy. It’s a picture postcard of a town.

Yachts from all over the world anchor in Portofino’s harbor. Here, if you have to ask what it costs, you definitely can’t afford it ! And that includes the gelato.

A walk through town weaves past colorful houses, pretty gardens, high-end shops, small churches, and even a view of the castle up on the cliff. Stop for a harbor side gelato before boarding the ferry back to Rapallo or Santa Margarita. It’s hard to beat summer along the Ligurian coast !

Off The Beaten Path in Vernazza

Vernazza is crowded in June (even before peak season).

Vernazza is one of the five little villages that make up the Cinque Terre, stretching along the Ligurian coast of Italy. 4 of the 5 towns are perched right along the sea (from north to south: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Manarola, and Riomaggiore). The fifth village is Corniglia which sits nearly 400 steps up a hillside. Once a string of isolated fishing villages, the railroad made the region more accessible and the tourists soon followed. Today the Cinque Terre is a UNESCO World Heritage site, part of a national park, and a popular tourist destination.

Many would argue that the whole region has become much too popular with tourists and that is probably most true of picturesque Vernazza. It can be a very crowded place, especially in the summer.

And yet, it is a magical place to visit. Vernazza has a natural harbor surrounded by dramatic cliffs with the ruins of a castle and tower, an ancient defense against pirates, facing out to sea. The small harbor plays host to the ferry dock, fishing boats, lots of sunbathers along the rocks, and a small beach.

Colorful boats in Vernazza’s harbor

Standing tall above the harbor is the church of Santa Margherita D’Antiochia with it’s unusual octagonal campanile (bell tower). It is this church and the harbor that is the classic view of Vernazza and the photo taken my countless visitors (top photo). Nearby is pretty Piazza Marconi ringed with cafes and restaurants. From there a single main street links the harbor with the train station on the opposite side of town. Along the street is an arch leading to another small beach, shops, gelaterie, a small street-side chapel, and lots and lots of tourists.

When I visited in mid-June, with my daughter and two oldest grandkids, the crowds had already arrived though had not yet peaked. After a harbor side lunch we headed out along Via Roma. After a while we decided to escape the crowds by taking a left hand turn and heading up some steps to get above the fray. What a good decision!

Just one street off the busy “main drag”, Via Agostino del Santo is another world entirely. Few people, no tourists spots. But so much to enjoy - small houses with painted doors, steep streets, little hidden alleys, a couple of galleries, enchanting corners, and a walk that ended high above the harbor with great views.

This off the beaten path walk was a wonderful break from the crowds and a glimpse of Vernazza that most visitors never see. As is so often the case when visiting Italy, it is the slices of everyday life and the hidden spots that are the most enchanting.

A Maritime Museum in Genoa

Columbus, pointing the way to the New World.

The city of Genova (Genoa) is famous for many things, but above all it is an important port city. For centuries it has been a center of ship building, maritime trade, and exploration. Genova is also the place where Cristofo Columbo (Christopher Columbus) was born. Throughout the region there are statues of Columbus, a local hero, depicted with his arm outstretched pointing the way to America. Of course in reality it wasn’t America he was searching for, not to mention he sailed for Spain not Italy. No matter, he is still a revered native son of Genova.

In the spirit of its seafaring history, Genova is also the site of a wonderful maritime museum, the Galata Museo del Mare (Galata Museum of the Sea). The Galeta is the largest maritime museum in the Mediterranean region and was high on my teenage grandson’s list of places to visit during our recent vacation in Liguria. From our base in Rapallo, Genoa was an easy day trip, less than an hour away by train. So, off we went one morning to Genoa where the museum is just a short walk from the Principe train station.

Genoa’s Porto Antico, where the Galata Museo del Mare is located.

Located in the Porto Antico (Old Port) area, the museum traces local history from the creation of the port, the construction of sailing vessels, the growth of trade, the work of the sailors and merchants, and the life of Columbus. There are also exhibits about Genoa as a point of embarkation for those emigrating from Italy, modern shipping and commerce, and the more recent arrival of immigrants to Italy. All this and a submarine exhibit too. For anyone interested in beautiful old wooden ships and maritime history this is a great place to visit.

The museum is spread over 4 floors. The exhibits are organized chronologically, with good signage in both Italian and English. The story begins on the ground floor with maps, illustrations, and exhibits dedicated to the earliest life of the port. One room is dedicated to the life of Columbus, with detailed models of his three famous ships. Another room is full of helmets, spears, cannons, and armor related to the port’s historic military role.

The largest exhibit on the first floor is a full size reproduction of a galleon ship. This is a hands (and feet) on exhibit - climb aboard, admire the beautiful craftsmanship, and get a feel for the sights and sounds of life on a 17th century ship. Fun!

A 17th century Genovese galleon vessel

The exhibit continues with aspects of the sailor’s daily life in scenes set around the ship. You can even try your hand at rowing the heavy oars. Kids love these hands on experiences.

The next floors are all about ships and sailing. Included is another large ship, this time a reproduction of the brigantine Anna. The era comes alive as you peer into the captain’s quarters, the map room, even the galley kitchen. Walk the decks, take a turn at the wheel, and you can almost feel the ship rising and falling with the waves. The detail is amazing.

The displays of navigational instruments and models of ships are impressive. Imagine those early sailors, with no satellite or radar or high tech communication methods, sailing off into the unknown. Che coraggioso!

I particularly enjoyed the exhibits about Italian emigration. After all, this is the story of my Italian great grandfather, Pasquale Marino.

The exhibit begins with a walk through an Italian neighborhood. Hear Italians while they lean out their windows and talk across the piazza about leaving their homes (via video technology).

Then go to the port’s office where the officer asks for your documents and gives you a passport, board the ship, and walk through the male and female dormitories to get a feel for life onboard. The rustic bathrooms, dining room, and ship’s hospital make clear that this was no luxury voyage for most of the people on board.

Finally, arrive to your destination, present your paperwork, and feel what it’s like to enter an unknown country. I am not sure who designed this exhibit, but it’s brilliant.

The uppermost exhibit floors display models of modern vessel and tell of more recent explorers. There is also a moving area telling the stories of the recent wave of immigrants to Italy.

Lastly, there is the submarine, which sits in the harbor. Inside the museum are exhibits about the vessel which give a feel for its technology and inner workings. The submarine itself was closed for cleaning the day we visited, but usually is available for visits.

The Porto Antico area also houses an aquarium, interesting ships anchored in the harbor, and several restaurants. After a harbor side lunch we hopped the train back to our base in Rapallo, having learned a lot about ships and Genoa’s maritime history.