Volterra

The days between the hubbub of Christmas and the celebrations of the new year are perfect for a low-key day trip into the Tuscan countryside. I’m always a bit lazy during this time of year, so a drive, a walk around a pretty town, and a good lunch were all that was on the agenda, saving museums and other more in-depth explorations for a later visit.

One of the entrances into the city of Volterra

Volterra is a place I’ve always wanted to explore but until now had never visited. So, when a couple of friends suggested a day trip, I jumped at the chance. On a crisp and foggy morning a few days after Christmas, we set out from Lucca and headed for Volterra, about an hour and a half away by car. Because Volterra is a little out of the way, without a train station or easy bus connections, it has fewer tourists than some of the other Tuscan hill towns (such as Arezzo or Cortona) and doesn’t seem to get the large tour groups that visit San Gimignano. And on this winter day it was almost free of tourists.

Volterra is a very old city, dating to Etruscan times. It is particularly known for two things - Etruscan artifacts and the creation of objects made of alabaster. We skipped the museum  but did manage to do a little shopping for alabaster.  It was fascinating to watch an artisan at work in her small shop (Gloria Giannelli Alabastri). Her work was gorgeous - delicate small carvings, bowls, vases, light fixtures. She was happy to talk about her work and the process of making alabaster pieces. She demonstrated how she began with raw alabaster and worked it to create objects made either from a solid alabaster block or as a mosaic from slabs of different colors of alabaster. Of course, I bought a small piece!

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All pieces are handmade by the artist

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Raw Alabaster

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I couldn’t resist this little bowl

​The town of Volterra is beautiful, with it’s old castello (castle), town wall and arches, beautiful stone buildings, little alleys, carved doors, and ornate iron windows.  

A small vicolo with steep stairs heading to the castello

The wide gently sloped streets are lined with homes, shops, and restaurants. And at this time of year it was made festive with Christmas lights and decorations all through town. 

Our lunch stop, at Ristorante La Terra di Mezzo, was a treat. We chose several pasta dishes, all delicious. The chocolate soufflé dessert, recommended by our waiter, was fantastic.

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Pappardelle with ham and truffles

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A spicy Arrabbiata alla Calabrese

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A warm chocolate soufflé

After lunch and a bit more wandering  around town, we headed home to Lucca, knowing that we’d have to return soon for more exploration and to visit the Etruscan Museum. I couldn’t have asked for a more perfect late December day in Tuscany!         -post by JMB

Looking out over the valley from a viewpoint in Volterra

Finding Luck in the New Year - The Italian Way

Italy is a land of traditions and fun-to-embrace superstitions. As in many cultures, some of these relate to the beginning of a new year and finding good luck, love, and fortune in the coming months - and who doesn't want all that?

Store window, Lucca

One tradition, the wearing of new red underwear, is said to bring romance and even fertility in the coming year. Store windows display pretty red underthings that are supposed to be given as gifts and worn just on New Year’s Eve (I’m not sure if this is an old superstition or just a good marketing tool).  In a pinch, a red article of clothing seems a reasonable compromise.

In the spirit of “out with the old to make room for the new,” getting rid of old things by tossing them out the window is an old tradition that I have never encountered, though I’ve heard it still happens in small towns in southern Italy  If visiting there on New Year’s Eve, be prepared to duck! Maybe we should just toss out old problems and outdated ways of doing things instead?

It is also said that the first person you see in the new year will determine the type of year it will be. Good luck follows if you meet an elderly person (if of the opposite gender - or a hunchback - that’s even better), but worry if you first encounter a child or a priest.

Winter skies in Lucca - starting the new year here makes me feel pretty lucky!

Lentils for good luck and fortune

Of course some of the new year traditions involve food. Eating 12 grapes is good luck, as is eating pomegranate. Perhaps the best luck (at least financially) comes from eating lentils (lenticchie), which are coin shaped. Increase the luck factor by including rounds of sausage in the dish. Not one to ignore superstition (except maybe for the new red underwear), I was sure to have a pot of lentil soup over the holiday. Mine was full of carrots and celery and included sausage, though I skipped the traditional round (another coin shape) cotechino sausage, which was just too big for my small pot of lentils. I used crumbled small sausages instead (hopefully that does not mean my fortunes will crumble!). This made a flavorful soup and, if the superstition holds, will ensure that I have all the coins I need to stay in Italy throughout 2019. Fingers crossed!      -post by JMB

Rome window, 1996. I hope to visit here in 2019.

Presepi: An Italian Christmas Tradition

Italians celebrate Christmas in many ways, both modern and traditional. Christmas trees, which have become more common here, are a modern twist. An older and more symbolic Christmas tradition is that of the presepe (Nativity scene). 

A small portion of the presepe at the church of San Salvatore in Lucca

Presepi (the plural form of presepe) are displayed in family homes, churches, piazzas, and shop windows throughout the Christmas season, which stretches from the Feast of the Immaculate Conception on December 8 through Epiphany on January 6. They range from small displays to life-size scenes and even to living Nativities. The very first presepe is said to have been a living Nativity created in the 13th century by St. Francis of Assisi as a way to tell the Christmas story.

A traditional Nativity in the church of Santa Maria Corteorlandini, Lucca

Traditional presepi have some common elements - figurines of Mary, Joseph, and the infant Jesus, a manger, and often some animals. Wise men are commonly included too, through the most simple presepi have only the figures of the Holy Family. The setting for the crèche varies - it’s common to see barns, caves, or stables.

This unusual presepe gives just a glimpse of the Madonna, through a stable window, as she nurses her infant.

Beyond those common elements, each presepe is a unique work of art. The more elaborate ones contain whole villages, which show daily life in amazing detail. These can be modern or very traditional. The villages may represent a biblical setting or they may be set in a local village. Many contain “special effects” such as water features (fountains, streams, mills with running water), lights, and even fires (with glowing embers created by tiny red lights).

This Nativity, set in a rustic barn, includes cows, chickens and farm workers along with the holy family.

This Christmas season the church of Santa Maria Corteorlandini has on display more than 20 handcrafted presepi (many pictured here). The tiniest was built in a seashell, the largest ones were comprised of whole villages, barns with haylofts and stables, desert scenes complete with camels, and one set in front of one of Lucca’s historic gates.

This presepe places the Nativity at one of Lucca’s medieval gates.

Although this was a competition to choose the best presepe, I wasn’t able to choose just one favorite. Seeing all of these beautiful works of art together, in the setting of 12th century church, was a moving experience. One more reason to love Christmas in Italy!                                               - post by JMB

A simple and beautiful scene

An Italian Christmas

Christmas in Italy is enchanting. Cold days and even colder nights bring out shoppers and strollers wrapped in colorful scarves, hats, and, in many cases, fur coats. Here in Lucca the streets and squares are strung with lights and filled with greens. Even the smallest alley glows with Christmas magic.

Shoppers on Chiasso Barletti

Lucca’s Piazza Anfiteatro at night

Shop windows are magical at this time of year, decorated with holiday goodies and winter scenes.

The window of this chocolate shop is one of my favorites.

Christmas trees fill shops and squares. Small trees, decorated with white bows, line the street on which I live. Between the trees and the overhead lights, walking along my Via Mordini is beautiful day or night.

This simple tree sits inside the old mercato alongside a small art show.

Greens are everywhere - wreaths and swags and clusters of mistletoe – they cheer up doorways, fill restaurants, and make a beautiful sight against the stone walls of the buildings in this Medieval city.

There are also Christmas concerts and carolers and, from the shops, mostly American music (an unexpected sound and a surprise to me).  Piazza Napoleone is holiday central with its outdoor Christmas market, ice skating rink, and lighted sculptural tree.  Even the carousel is decked out for Christmas. 

Foods are another important part of the season.

Chocolates, biscotti, nuts, pandoro and panettone all make for interesting shop displays.  

While the traditional panettone is made with dried fruit, this pistacchio version sounds delicious! 

Pretty decorations in the courtyard of a favorite restaurant, Osteria Via San Georgio

There is much to see, taste, smell, hear and experience, and all of it is new to me on this, my first Italian Christmas. As I walked through town the other evening, admiring all the lights and activity, all of my senses were tuned to Christmas. And I was joyful.  -Post by JMB

From both of us at Two Parts Italy, we wish you joy wherever you may be this holiday season.

Buon Natale.  Buone Feste.

Merry Christmas.  Happy Holidays.                                             

A pretty window in Piazza San Salvatore, Lucca

Giving the Gift of Italy

It’s the week before Christmas and if you have an Italy lover on your list, here are some great last-minute items you can easily order online.

Music

Italy means many things to me, with music being high on the list. Native Italian Andrea Bocelli recently released his first new album in 14 years, titled “Sí.” The album features ballads and songs of love and includes the beautiful song he recorded with his son, Matteo. If you have not heard “Fall on Me,” you’ll find a video of it here. You can find "Sí" where you typically buy music.

Olive Oil

An easy-to-give and unique gift is to adopt an olive tree in Italy on behalf of your gift recipient. I adopted a tree in Umbria several years ago and in addition to the wonderful olive oil I received as part of my adoption, this simple act has allowed to feel I truly own a piece of Italy (I renew my adoption every year). You can find numerous olive oil farms to choose from by searching on the Internet for “olive tree adoption Italy.” Choose the farm, choose the tree, choose to whom you want to send the gift, and pay – all online. You’ll be giving a part of Italy to someone you love and helping Italy continue to produce some of the best olive oil in the world.

Lotion

Speaking of olive oil, my favorite lotion and soap is made in Italy and derived from organic olive oil and extracts of olive leaf. I first bought the products while in Italy but discovered after returning home that I can buy them online. The website emporioitaliano.com carries the Erbario Toscano products I enjoy, along with a host of other items from Italy. I have found the service to be great and I re-order my lotion and soap solely online now so I don’t have to worry about fitting them in my suitcase any more.

Books

The list of books about Italy or set in Italy is long. Whether it’s mysteries (try authors Donna Leon or Andrea Camilleri) or romances (“Letters to Juliet,” “Italy: My Beautiful Obsession” are two) or philosophy (Marcus Aurelius’ “Meditations” is among my favorites), you can find something to fit almost any Italophile’s tastes.

Food

For “Two Parts Italy” readers in Albuquerque, I highly recommend the food of my friend Michelle. She offers community-sourced meals that include fresh pasta, ravioli, sauces and other prepared food each week. The quality is high, the taste is scrumptious and the love put into the preparations is Italian. You can find her website here.

Buon Natale to you all! -post by JG