From My Italian Kitchen: A Simple Dessert

February 11, 2019 by Joanne Bartram in Cooking, food, Italian recipes, recipes

It’s easy to find good (and decadent) desserts in Italy - it seems as though there is a pasticceria on every corner. Their windows and display cases are filled with tarts, cakes, sweet breads, and cookies - all of which are sure to taste delicious. Think rich ricotta, pastry cream, chocolate, and jam-filled delicacies (the ones pictured below are from the wonderful Pasticceria Sandra L’Angolo Dolce in Lucca)..

As wonderful as these are, sometimes I want to serve a dessert that is homemade and a little less rich. That was certainly true the first time I entertained friends after the hubbub (and feasting) of the holidays. The lunch I served was simple - a pasta with spinach and ricotta and oven-roasted chicken. For dessert I wanted to continue the simplicity of the meal but also wanted something really tasty to brighten up the cold winter afternoon. I think berry desserts are perfect in any season and so that is what I made.

No fancy ingredients needed for this dessert, just berries, cream, mascarpone, powered sugar. and a balsamic glaze.

My first task was shopping for the ingredients - zucchero al velo (powdered sugar), panna fresca (not quite whipping cream, but a close substitute) and crema all’aceto balsamico (a thick glaze made of balsamic vinegar). I had to search for the powdered sugar as not every store carries it (and some comes flavored with added vanilla, which wasn’t what I needed). Grocery shopping here is still an adventure for me and part of the joy of learning to live in Italy. I didn’t even mind going to three grocery stores to gather the ingredients.

To prepare this dessert, start by making the topping. Once prepared it will hold in the fridge for about 12 hours (after that it begins to separate). It works best when made with a metal bowl and whisk (or beaters from an electric mixer) that are really cold - a couple of hours in the fridge is perfect. There are just three ingredients:

250 gms mascarpone (about 4.5 oz)

125 ml (1/2 cup) of panna fresca (whipping cream)

2 Tablespoons of zucchero al velo (powered sugar)

Let the mascarpone sit out for about 15 minutes and then soften with a spoon.

Place mascarpone in the chilled bowl along with the panna fresca and the powdered sugar.

Whip until thickened (thick, creamy, and very soft peaks). I used a whisk, but an electric mixer works well too. Don’t over beat it though.

Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until just before serving. This mixture would be plenty for six servings.

Next, prepare the berries, which are the base of this dessert. You will need:

A mixture of berries ( any combination will work or use a single type of berry); adjust quantities as needed for the amount of servings you’d like to make, one half to three quarters of a cup per serving.

Crema all’aceto Balsamico (Balsamic Glaze)

Slice strawberries and combine with whole blackberries and raspberries (I used about 10 large strawberries, a large handful of blackberries, and a large handful of raspberries to make 3 servings).

Since off-season berries are not the most flavorful, about an hour before serving, put the berries in small serving bowls and drizzle them with the balsamic glaze. A little drizzle is all that is needed. Were I more ambitious, I would have made the glaze by reducing balsamic vinegar and adding a bit of sugar and lemon juice, but in the name of keeping things simple, I just picked up a store-bought ready-made glaze. Shh. Don’t tell Martha Stewart. The balsamic glaze really adds a flavor punch to less than perfect berries.

Berries drizzled with the balsamic glaze

Let the berries sit for an hour (either at room temperature or in the fridge) before topping them with a generous spoonful of the whipped topping. Serve right away after adding the topping.

This dessert is easy to make, looks pretty in clear glass bowls or wine glasses, and tastes delicious. My guests gave it a big thumbs up! - post by JMB

Reception area, Hotel Morandi alla Crocetta

A Recommended Hotel in Florence: The Morandi alla Crocetta

February 04, 2019 by Joanne Bartram in Florence, Hotels Florence, Tuscany, Italy travel

What do you look for when you choose a hotel in Italy?

A courtyard at Hotel Morandi alla Crocetta

I look for places that are small, unique to the city I’m visiting, simple yet charming, and reasonably priced. I avoid the big chains and international brands in favor of places that are family-owned and offer local character and personal touches. I find the smaller hotels to be welcoming and friendly with great connections to local culture and wonderful service to guests.

The first time I traveled to Florence, 20-some years ago, I came across a gem of a small hotel called the Morandi alla Crocetta. I’ve stayed there many times since and it never disappoints – in fact, it’s the only place I stay when I’m in Florence. It has the perfect combination of history, charm, location, service, and price.

Wearing the laurel wreath of a graduate of the law school, right next to the hotel

The hotel is at 50 Via Laura in the section of Florence near the Ospedale degli Innocenti, Church of SS. Annunziata, the Academia (home of the David), and the Archeological Museum. It’s an easy walk to all the major points of interest in Florence, about eight minutes to the Duomo. This is a lively (but not noisy) neighborhood, which is also home to the University of Florence School of Law. During my recent visit, I was able to watch the graduation celebrations as law students and their families marked the completion of degrees (laurea in Italian). What fun it was to witness this event!

Many artifacts related to Sister Domenica are displayed in the hotel

The Morandi alla Crocetta is a unique property, originally a convent founded by Sister Domenica del Paradiso (what a name!) in the early 16th century, during the era of the Medici. According to the history provided in the hotel literature, Sister Domenica sided with the Medici family in their conflict with the powerful cleric Savonarola, and so the Medici rulers gave her this land on which to build her convent. The convent was called the Convent of the Cross (cross is crocetta in Italian) as all the nuns had a small red cross on their habits. The convent was later enlarged by a Medici princess and connected by an overpass to her palazzo so she could worship at the convent’s small chapel. With time, and a period of religious suppression, the nuns moved away and the convent ceased to exist.

Today’s hotel Morandi includes the cloister and gardens from the historic convent. It is a small hotel with two floors (ground and first, with an elevator). The convent’s chapel is no longer accessible, but the former entry to the chapel is perhaps the most interesting room in the hotel - complete with 17th century frescoes and illustrations of the life of Sister Domenica. This room is a bit of a splurge, but definitely worth it.

Ceiling Fresco, Chapel Room

Chapel Room

Fresco, Chapel Room

Other rooms range from small (comfortable and economical) singles to large suites, some with private outdoor patios. There are several gracious lounge areas with a variety of books, magazines, and newspapers for browsing.

Single Room

Desk area in single room

Double Room

Since I was staying in one of the small single rooms during my most recent visit, I made good use of the comfortable public areas as a place to read and do some writing.

The hotel provides a full breakfast in an elegant room overlooking a small courtyard garden. Breakfast includes a basket of cornetti (Italian style croissants) and bread with jam, yogurt, fruit, cereal, juice, coffee, and tea. Also available are eggs, bacon, ham, salami, and cheeses. It’s a great place to meet other travelers and compare experiences over morning coffee. In the evening, the breakfast room transforms into a bar.

My most recent stay at the hotel Morandi alla Crocetta (October 2018) was a delight. This is a place that I happily recommend. I’m already planning a return next summer with my family. - post by JMB

Contact info:

Hotel Morandi alla Crocetta

Via Laura 50, Firenze 50121

phone: +39 055 234 4748

email: welcome@hotelmorandi.it

Celebrating Lucca’s Traditional Foods

January 28, 2019 by Joanne Bartram

Italy gave birth to the Slow Food movement, which promotes the flavors (sapori) of local food and knowledge (saperi) about regional culinary traditions. Lucca’s recent slow food festival, Il Desco, was described as a “tribute to the food and wine heritage of the Lucchese territory.” And what a tribute it was!

This annual event, held over two weekends in late November and early December, showcased the varied products grown, raised, and produced in the area around Lucca. The many booths provided the chance to sample delicious flavors and learn about production of wines, beers, olive oils, meats, cheeses, breads, pastries, nuts and more.

Even better than grazing through and tasting at the displays is to have lunch at Il Desco. Plates of salumi, prosciutto and cheeses, roasted porchetta, and a variety of panini are sold. I was most delighted to find the booth where they were cooking necci, chestnut flour crepes. One of these, filled with ricotta, made a perfect lunch for me (and cost just 2 euro). They were popular with children too - who seemed to have a definite preference for Nutella as a filling.

I’m a huge fan of these local food celebrations - wandering around taking in the sight of all this beautifully displayed food, not to mention the fragrance, is the perfect way to develop an appreciation for local small-batch production methods and the exquisite quality of products that demonstrate why slow food is good food and Lucchese food is great food. -post by JMB

The views from Capri are beyond compare. These are the famous faraglioni (rock formations eroded by waves) off the coast of the island.

Capri, Italy: Not Just for Honeymooners

January 21, 2019 by Judy Giannnettino

The beautiful Italian island of Capri is often thought of as a honeymoon destination, but you don’t have to be a newlywed or even part of a couple to appreciate the romance of the place.

Just a 50-minute ferry ride from the bustling city of Naples, Capri has been a resort destination since ancient Roman times. Sunshine, beaches, clear turquoise water, unique shopping, delicious food, outdoor activities, and the Italian flair for living la dolce vita – Capri has all that and more.

Because it can be reached so easily from the mainland, many visitors see the island only as a day trip. Staying longer, however, allows for a much more thorough investigation. Whether there for a romantic getaway or simply because you need to get away, Capri is a treat for the senses.

The island’s famous Blue Grotto is a highlight for many people. A word of caution: It often can’t be visited due to rough water. Don’t worry – there are many other highlights. Marina Piccola offers swimming, snorkeling and a small beach (as well as the legend that it is where Odysseus almost surrendered to the Sirens’ song).

Shops offer high-end items and low-end souvenirs. You can find a cobbler who will handcraft a pair of leather sandals for you, spas with extensive menus of treatments, one-of-a-kind art and bottles of limoncello galore. The island’s restaurants will have you drooling over fresh fish, tomatoes, eggplant and herbs. If you like to hike, there are several trails that will give you a great workout (think steep limestone cliffs) and even greater views.

The island of Capri has only two towns: Capri and Anacapri. Capri has the more expensive hotels, shops and restaurants, and is the town most visited by tourists. Anacapri has a much less touristy feel, more hiking opportunities and much less nightlife. It also has no waterfront beaches. I think everyone should visit both. In Anacapri, a chairlift will slowly carry you to the top, where you can choose to hike down or ride back the way you came.

While Capri gets packed with tourists in high season, its beauty is simply something that shouldn’t be missed. Just looking at photos from my last trip to the island has me wondering when I can return. -post by JG

Volterra

January 14, 2019 by Joanne Bartram in Italy travel, Hill Towns Italy, Tuscany, Volterra, #italytravel, #volterra, Italy

The days between the hubbub of Christmas and the celebrations of the new year are perfect for a low-key day trip into the Tuscan countryside. I’m always a bit lazy during this time of year, so a drive, a walk around a pretty town, and a good lunch were all that was on the agenda, saving museums and other more in-depth explorations for a later visit.

One of the entrances into the city of Volterra

Volterra is a place I’ve always wanted to explore but until now had never visited. So, when a couple of friends suggested a day trip, I jumped at the chance. On a crisp and foggy morning a few days after Christmas, we set out from Lucca and headed for Volterra, about an hour and a half away by car. Because Volterra is a little out of the way, without a train station or easy bus connections, it has fewer tourists than some of the other Tuscan hill towns (such as Arezzo or Cortona) and doesn’t seem to get the large tour groups that visit San Gimignano. And on this winter day it was almost free of tourists.

Volterra is a very old city, dating to Etruscan times. It is particularly known for two things - Etruscan artifacts and the creation of objects made of alabaster. We skipped the museum but did manage to do a little shopping for alabaster. It was fascinating to watch an artisan at work in her small shop (Gloria Giannelli Alabastri). Her work was gorgeous - delicate small carvings, bowls, vases, light fixtures. She was happy to talk about her work and the process of making alabaster pieces. She demonstrated how she began with raw alabaster and worked it to create objects made either from a solid alabaster block or as a mosaic from slabs of different colors of alabaster. Of course, I bought a small piece!

All pieces are handmade by the artist

Raw Alabaster

I couldn’t resist this little bowl

The town of Volterra is beautiful, with it’s old castello (castle), town wall and arches, beautiful stone buildings, little alleys, carved doors, and ornate iron windows.

A small vicolo with steep stairs heading to the castello

The wide gently sloped streets are lined with homes, shops, and restaurants. And at this time of year it was made festive with Christmas lights and decorations all through town.

Our lunch stop, at Ristorante La Terra di Mezzo, was a treat. We chose several pasta dishes, all delicious. The chocolate soufflé dessert, recommended by our waiter, was fantastic.

Pappardelle with ham and truffles

A spicy Arrabbiata alla Calabrese

A warm chocolate soufflé

After lunch and a bit more wandering around town, we headed home to Lucca, knowing that we’d have to return soon for more exploration and to visit the Etruscan Museum. I couldn’t have asked for a more perfect late December day in Tuscany! -post by JMB

Looking out over the valley from a viewpoint in Volterra