A Weekly Market At Lake Como

There’s nothing quite like the weekly market in a small Italian village.  Larger towns and big cities have permanent covered markets and modern supermarkets, but that is not the case for many of the small towns.  In those villages, the weekly market is essential. Even better if the market comes with a view of Lake Como!

The Tuesday Market in Lenno takes place right along the shore of Lake Como

Argegno may not have a big grocery store but it sure has wonderful views, easy ferry access, and a lively main square.

Argegno, on the western shore of Lake Como, is a good example of a weekly small town market.  Argegno is small, with only around 700 permanent residents. In the summers the number increases with summer residents and lots of visitors.  There is only one tiny alimentari (grocery) which sits just off Piazza Roma in the center of town.  The alimentari is the place to pick up essential supplies – cheese, packaged prosciutto and salami, eggs, milk, wine, bottled water, ground coffee (but nothing as fancy as pods for the nespresso machine).  In the mornings you’ll find fresh bread from a nearby bakery.  There’s also a small selection of household products.  But there are no fresh meats, fish, vegetables, or fruits.  

Argegno also has a small mini-mart.  I found some frozen chicken thighs there and a limited selection of fresh vegetables along with small sized bottles of olive oil and vinegar. So, while I had lofty plans for cooking in the Airbnb apartment where my friend and I were staying, I found that buying fresh ingredients would have to wait until Monday when the market came to town.  Those first few days we muddled through with eating out (no complaints, the town has fabulous restaurants and it was really too hot to cook) and light meals “at home” of cheese and prosciutto.  It took a trip down to Como, about 30 minutes away, to find the capsules for the Nespresso machine, another essential. With 90+ degrees and high humidity in late August, making iced coffee in the apartment was a life-saver as we spent afternoons inside to escape the heat.

The weekly market in Argegno

 As in so many little villages, the weekly market sees a fleet of vans setting up temporary shop in a piazza, along a street, or in a parking lot.  In Argegno the market is across the street from Piazza Roma, down near the small boat harbor next to Bar Il Porto, a good place for a post-market coffee.  It’s nice to be able to look out over Lake Como after a turn around the market and Bar Il Porto offers fabulous views.

 Argegno’s market is typical – a combination of fresh fruits and vegetables, a wide variety of cheeses and salumi, and the tantalizing aroma of chickens and pork roasting on the spit.  The market was the place to find salad ingredients - deep green and red heads of lettuce, perfectly ripe tomatoes, a red onion.  Two small zucchini with flowers came home with me for a frittata the next day.  We asked the fruit vendor for peaches pronto per domani o dopodomani (ready for tomorrow or the next day), trusting him to pick them for us.  And boy did he come through!  We had two of the juiciest, sweetest, most perfectly ripe peaches exactly as requested - “the day after tomorrow”.  A roasted chicken also went into our shopping bag, half for a salad that day and some saved for a later time. 

 In addition to food, most weekly markets have an assortment of other items, a sort of “Walmart on wheels”.   In Argegno there were dresses, shoes and socks, underwear, bracelets, hats, and purses.  The next day the market moved up to the town of Lenno, where it was even larger. The Tuesday Lenno market had housewares and garden plants in addition to the things found in Argegno.  That’s where I was able to buy an umbrella, something that came in very handy when the storms rolled in a few days later. I love markets wherever I travel, but taking a boat across beautiful Lake Como to reach the market in Lenno made that market even more special.

My previous visits to Argegno have all been brief, no more than 3 or 4 days, all spent in Hotel Villa Belvedere.  This visit was my first long stay, 2 weeks.  That gave me the chance to shop the markets in Argegno and Lenno, do some cooking in the Airbnb kitchen, and experience a little of what life would be like living in one of the most gorgeous places on earth. As wonderful as being spoiled at a nice hotel is, having a kitchen and a chance to use some of the freshest produce and wonderful meats and cheeses was pretty nice too. And the hotel Belvedere was just around the corner for an occasional aperitivo (hint: the Belvedere makes a really good Cosmopolitan, served with a view of the lake).

Mid-August in Lucca

Last week, on the 15th, the Italian mid-August holiday of Ferragosto was celebrated. Just a few days before that, I arrived back in Lucca after a long visit to the USA. With all the angst that accompanies international travel these days, I must say I am feeling quite fortunate. Not only am I back in Italy, but all my flights were on time and problem free. My luggage even arrived in Florence at the same time as I did. These days that feels like a minor miracle.

The mid-week flower market in Piazza San Michele, Lucca

The all important receipt showing that my permesso renewal is in progress. I definitely don’t want to lose this !

In another stroke of luck, I was able to turn in my “permesso kit” - the big stack of documents required to renew my permit to stay legally in Italy - without any of the problems that many people have recently experienced. There has been a major backup in the Italian Immigration pipeline this summer. Some people applying for renewals were given appointments at the Questura (the next step in the permesso process) many months into the future, long after their current permesso expires. Worse, some were told no appointments were available at all and they would receive a text or a letter when one became available. Yikes - talk about stressful. While this delay doesn’t preclude staying in Italy during the waiting period, it does make it nearly impossible to travel to, or through, any other Schengen country while waiting for the new permesso di soggiorno card to arrive. Somehow, luck was on my side and I walked out of the post office last Monday with an appointment just 5 1/2 weeks later. I have to assume that my luck coincided with the fact that the immigration backlog is now beginning to clear.

I am happy to be back in Lucca. The heat is a bit overwhelming but I’ve been able to walk through town in the early mornings or early evenings, keeping to the shady side streets. And now that I’ve unpacked and turned in the all important permesso paperwork I am headed off for a real vacation at one of my favorite spots - Lago di Como (Lake Como). I’m leaving my computer at home, so there will be no blog post next Monday.

I’ll put some photos from Lake Como on the Two Parts Italy Facebook page over the next 10 days, otherwise look for me to be back on Monday September 4th with a new post and lots of photos from my time at the lake! In the meantime, enjoy these photos from my first days back in Lucca.

Linda's Dolci. A Taste of Italy in New Mexico

I’ve spent most of this summer visiting my family in Albuquerque, New Mexico. It’s always good to spend time with my kids and grandkids, but at the same time I really miss Italy.  I long for walks around Lucca, Medieval streetscapes, and the sounds of the Italian language. I especially miss an early morning coffee or an aperitivo in a local bar. Those are cultural experiences that just can not be recreated here.

There’s nothing more Italian than a cornetto filled with jam, pastry cream, or pistachio creme. At Linda’s Dolci they are delicious!

 Albuquerque is not like some of the bigger cities in the US, such as New York or Boston.  There is no Little Italy neighborhood here, no part of town where Italian is spoken, no area where the culture of Italy prevails. I am always searching for something to bring a little taste of Italy to me when I am here in New Mexico. I found an Italian language class which was a big help this summer as was the local Italian Culture and Language Group.  But the best surprise was finding a new Italian pasticceria just a few minutes from my New Mexico condo. You just don’t expect to find an authentic Italian bakery in an Albuquerque shopping center, but that is exactly where I found one. Lucky me!

 Linda Manias is from Pordenone in the Friuli-Venezia-Guilia region of northeastern Italy.  While living in the US with her American husband she found she really missed Italian pastries (boy can I relate to that).  Her solution was to begin baking, recreating all the flavors she missed. And wow - can Linda bake! 

Linda’s Zeppole

In 2022, Linda moved to Albuquerque, along with her husband, where she began to offer Italian cakes and pastries, operating out of shared space in a local cafe.  Her business grew and now Linda has opened her very own Pasticceria – Linda’s Dolci – where she serves a wide variety of treats, both to enjoy in the cafe along with a coffee or portare via (to take away).

Prima colazione (breakfast) at Linda’s Dolci

 For me, a morning cappuccino and a cornetto at Linda’s Dolci brings me that slice of Italian flavor that I crave.  It’s no surprise that I always seem to run into another local Italophile there. Linda’s is the place where you just might hear Italian spoken by customers who come by for conversation as well as pastries.

Besides those breakfasts goodies, Linda fills her pastry case with all kinds of treats. The selection varies each day. You may find crisp cookies, jam filled squares, vanilla or chocolate glazed cream puffs, fruit topped delights, tiramisu, zeppole, cannoli, and delicious cakes.  You’ll even find gluten free and vegan options. Orders for custom cakes or pasty trays are always welcome.

 If you are in the Albuquerque area, be sure to stop in and say Buongiorno to the delightful Linda (you’ll find her back in the kitchen, hard at work).  Even better if you want to practice your Italian with her! 

 Don’t these photos make you hungry?

By the time this blog posts on Monday August 14th I will be back in Italy. Look for me enjoying a cappuccino and cornetto at one of the wonderful bars or pastry shops in Lucca!

A big thanks to Linda for giving me permission to use some photos from her website in this post.

August, Relaxation, and Bicycles

Summer is prime time for all ages to bike along Lucca’s walls

It’s hard for me to believe that another August has rolled around. Where did June and July go? Like many, no matter where we find ourselves this month, I am a bit tired of the heat. Isn’t there a summer equivalent of Ground Hog’s Day to tell us how many more weeks of hot weather lie ahead?

In Italy, this is the month for holidays at the seaside, doing crossword puzzles on a lounge chair, celebrating Ferragosto with friends in mid-August, and taking time to slow down and relax. This week, as I prepare to return to Italy from my summer visit in the US, I am embracing the Italian attitude toward August and taking a bit of break. And while I haven’t even caught a glimpse of the Italian seaside this summer, I am looking forward to spending some time later this month at an Italian lake. Fingers crossed there will be some cool lake breezes!

Instead of writing for this week’s blog post, I have been looking through some old photos. In doing so, I realized just how many times a stray person walks into the perfect shot I had lined up, a car messes up a photo of an ancient building, or a big ugly trash can ruins the photographic potential of a little alley.

This fading fresco (since restored) is even more interesting with the blue bicycle.

The one thing that shows up in a photo and always seems to make a scene even more interesting and classically Italian is a bicycle. Lucca is full of them and they often show up in my photos.

A bike may be parked in front of an ancient vista, chained to a window grate, peeking out from behind a gate, or cruising along the wall that circles the historic center of Lucca. Sometimes the bike is just a serendipitous part of the photo and sometimes it is the main focus.

Bikes can be handy when visiting the flower markets.

It’s not unusual to see a group of bicycle racers flying around the walls or a couple of Lucca’s local police.

Some bikes are workhorses, moving goods - or children - around town. Some even deliver gelato!

Bicycles really are an integral part of life in Lucca. I can’t seem to stop taking photos of them! And here’s one that offers a glimpse of fall.

Castles and Vineyards Along the Middle Rhine Valley

One of the highlights of a Viking Rhine River cruise is sailing the stretch of the Rhine between the cities of Koblenz and Rüdesheim. The day I sailed this stretch of the river (in early Spring) it was gray, windy, and chilly. But that didn’t stop me from standing along the rail on the open sun deck at the top of the ship.  That’s where the best views were! 

Burg Thurnberg is also known as Berg Maus - the “mouse” castle is just a bit away from the “cat” castle. The on-board narration explained the long-ago rivalry between the two owners.

 For about 4 hours the Viking Baldur moved slowly past breathtaking scenery.  There were steep vineyards, small medieval villages, steepled churches, and – best of all – ancient castles.   Some were ruins but others were remarkably well preserved.

The Lorelei Rock - we got close, but not too close when navigating this tricky bend in the Rhine

We also sailed by the Lorelei Rock which sits at the narrowest and deepest section of the Rhine. Legend has it that many sailors were lost here. Enchanted by the song of the Lorelei maiden they lost their way and crashed into the rock.

I didn’t hear her song that afternoon and luckily neither did our captain as we passed safely by the Lorelei without crashing into it. 

Our afternoon of sailing ended in the charming town of Rüdesheim where we had just enough time for a stroll through the streets of the Drosselgasse before returning to our ship for dinner. 

Marketplatz, Rüdesheim

 The Drosseslgasse is an area of narrow streets which wind through the oldest part of Rüdesheim.  The alleys are lined with half-timber houses, shops, wines cellars, pubs, and restaurants.  On the evening we visited there was jazz music spilling out of one pub, intriguing wines on display in a shop, and some really enticing aromas coming from the restaurants.   

Rüdesheim Caffe. (thanks to M. Bird for this photo)

 Rüdesheim is famous for both its wine and for Rüdesheim Caffe.  The coffee, laced with a local brandy and served in a fancy cup, is just the thing to warm up a gray afternoon. To make the coffee, brandy and sugar cubes are flamed before adding the coffee. Then it is topped off with whipped cream and chocolate shavings.  Delicious! We had an on-board demonstration of the preparation before arriving in Rüdesheim, with a tasting of course.  The specialty coffee cups - all curves and pretty patterns - were on sale in many of the local shops.  

 Our ship left Rüdesheim close to midnight, headed for a short stop in Speyer the next day. 

Speyer is where the Protestant Reformation began. It was here, in 1517, that Martin Luther presented his theses against the Roman Catholic Church.   The historic center of the city was full of beautiful architecture, monuments, the remains of a 13th century gate, and a remarkable Romanesque Cathedral which is a UNESCO World Heritage site. 

As in every stop, a local guide was provided by Viking. She gave us a good dose of history as well as interesting information about modern day Speyer. And while it just wasn’t possible to fully explore the city, we did manage to get a good sense of it between the guided walk and some free time for exploration. It’s a charming and beautiful small city.

Next stop on my cruise itinerary: Strasbourg, France. More on that in a future post.