One Spring Weekend in Lucca — Two Parts Italy

Perfect spring weather has finally arrived! Blue skies, temperatures in the mid to high 70’s, and slight breezes made for a wonderful weekend in Lucca. The weekend was full of activity and the city was filled with blossoms. There is no better time to be in Tuscany than spring.

On Friday, the first of a series of events took place at the Antico Caffè di Simo. The caffè has been closed since 2012, other than for a brief reopening for performances 2 years ago to mark the 100 years since Puccini’s death. The historic café, with its elegant wood and glass interior, was a favorite “hang-out” for Puccini and his pals and looks untouched from his time. It’s easy to imagine him sitting here, smoking (of course), and having great discussions with the literati of his time.

This year a collaboration between the city government, a local cultural group, and the owners of the property will see the caffè opened for music, dance, and literary events on weekends from mid-April until mid-June. This past Friday, the first performance was jazz with a lovely singer and an outstanding pianist. At one point a man in the audience, who seemed to know the singer, got up and spontaneously began singing with her. So much fun to watch! No tickets needed, the free performances are limited only by the small number of seats in the caffè. What a great way to start a weekend. Of course spring weather means outdoor aperitivi and the official start of Aperol Spritz season. No one had to twist my arm to get me to enjoy a post-concert aperitivo on a pretty piazza.

The monthly antiques market is always fun to visit.

Saturday also brought the monthly antiques market, especially enjoyable with the spring weather. The vendors are nearly always the same, but they bring some new and interesting items each time they set up their booths. I still daydream about buying some of the bigger pieces of furniture (not practical with my small apartment) but have a hard time resisting other items - especially the vintage linens.

The local Misericordia (the ambulance service) hosted a Saturday fair in Piazza Napoleone. On display were some very old wooden “ambulances” alongside the more modern ones. Need to learn how to use a defibrillator? This was the place to go.

Sunday brought church bells and more great weather - a perfect morning for a coffee with a friend. We weren’t the only ones with that idea, as many of the pastry shops and cafes were filled with people enjoying the chance to sit outside, enjoying the weather and a simple breakfast.

Pasticerria Pinelli has a great spot under the arches on Via Beccheria

After coffee, a wander through town led to Piazza San Michele where the local Puccini Marching Band, complete with baton twirlers, was performing. The youngest twirlers were a delight. Always fun to watch, the music was lively and the crowd that gathered appreciative. (You can find a short video on IG two_parts_italy and on Facebook).

On a different side of the musical spectrum, a one-man band street musician entertained passersby on a street corner. From the look of his harmonipan, you might have expected some Ragtime music. Instead, he was playing a lovely Ave Maria.

It is hard to navigate around big tour groups

Spring weather also means an influx of visitors to Lucca. Walking through town this weekend I’ve heard German, French, Japanese, and a variety of English accents spoken along with lots of Italian speaking visitors too. I enjoy meeting the visitors that spend some time here, especially blog readers who write me to say they are coming to Lucca. I’ve met several of them in just the past week – all delightful.

The big tour groups however can be trying. I admit to already having had a few moments of frustration with groups who take up an entire street, oblivious of people trying to get around them. I am trying to remember to be patient, but I definitely do some mumbling about this. An occasional Italian parolaccia (swear word) might creep in, sotto voce (under my breath). If only I had a euro for each time I had to say “permesso” and squeeze by. Those euros just might overcome the worsening dollar to euro exchange rate!

It’s hard to beat a spring weekend in Lucca. I can’t wait to see what next week brings!