Two Parts Italy

When I mentioned to friends that I was headed to Trieste, I inevitably got two reactions. First was that it is a wonderful city with really good coffee. Second was to watch out for La Bora, Trieste’s famously frigid wind which creates havoc as it roars down from the northeast. During my stay I experienced both.

The coffee was great, especially when sipped inside one of the city’s historic cafes. Their elegant settings reminded me of Vienna, which is no surprise since Trieste was part of the Austro-Hungarian empire for centuries. That influence can be seen throughout Trieste in the grand architecture, large squares, statues, cafes, and even in its culinary traditions. Triest is a blend of Italy and those Habsburg roots which makes it a unique place to visit. (below, Caffè degli Specchi)

As for the Bora, it struck one day after a week of pleasant weather. And when I say it struck, that is not an exaggeration. The cold (with a wind chill down to about 30 degrees) and wind together just about knock you over. I was very glad to have brought a winter sweater, heavy scarf, gloves, and a warm hat that covered my ears. Fortunately, the Bora lasted only one day and then we were back to mild weather.

But Trieste is much more than coffee and wind. The Citta Vecchia runs along the part of Trieste that follows the coastline and is flat before the city heads uphill to Castello San Giusto. Better still is its long stretch of pedestrian only streets that run from Piazza Venezia through the pretty garden of Piazza Hortis with the statue of Italo Svevo, and to the Piazza Unita d’ Italia which is Trieste’s grand public square (top photo). Along the way are shops, bars, restaurants, pastry shops, and some interesting meandering side streets.

Locals call the 2 Moors who ring the bell atop the clock tower Michez and Jachez

The centerpiece of the Piazza Unita d’Italia is the 1870’s City Hall with its tall clock tower. Up at the top, two bronze Moors strike the bell to mark time.

In front of the city hall is the Fontana dei Quatro Continenti (4 Continents Fountain). Designed in the 1700’s when only 4 continents were known (Europe, Asia, Africa, the Americas), each is represented by sculptures at the corners of the fountain. On top is a winged female figure, facing the sea, who represents Trieste.

Removed from the piazza in the 1930’s (our guide said that Mussolini ordered it removed because he didn’t like the non-Italian cultures depicted), it was restored and put back in place only about 25 years ago. Today it is a fountain without water, in part because when the Bora blows the spray of water would turn the piazza into an icy hazard.

Fontana dei Quatro Continenti, the African corner

From Piazza Unita d’Italia the pedestrian path continues through Piazza della Borsa (site of the old Stock Exchange, below).

Then it is on to the Grand Canal and Piazza del Ponterosso (look for the famous statue of James Joyce). This is the perfect place to end a walk through town with a spritz.

Further inland from the Gulf, Trieste becomes hilly with a steep climb up to its high point and the Castello San Giusto. More on that coming up in future posts along with some of Trieste’s Roman History.