Two Parts Italy

When I mentioned to friends that I was headed to Trieste, I inevitably got two reactions. First was that it is a wonderful city with really good coffee. Second was to watch out for La Bora, Trieste’s famously frigid wind which creates havoc as it roars down from the northeast. During my stay I experienced both.

The coffee was great, especially when sipped inside one of the city’s historic cafes. Their elegant settings reminded me of Vienna, which is no surprise since Trieste was part of the Austro-Hungarian empire for centuries. That influence can be seen throughout Trieste in the grand architecture, large squares, statues, cafes, and even in its culinary traditions. Triest is a blend of Italy and those Habsburg roots which makes it a unique place to visit. (below, Caffè degli Specchi)

As for the Bora, it struck one day after a week of pleasant weather. And when I say it struck, that is not an exaggeration. The cold (with a wind chill down to about 30 degrees) and wind together just about knock you over. I was very glad to have brought a winter sweater, heavy scarf, gloves, and a warm hat that covered my ears. Fortunately, the Bora lasted only one day and then we were back to mild weather.

But Trieste is much more than coffee and wind. The Citta Vecchia runs along the part of Trieste that follows the coastline and is flat before the city heads uphill to Castello San Giusto. Better still is its long stretch of pedestrian only streets that run from Piazza Venezia through the pretty garden of Piazza Hortis with the statue of Italo Svevo, and to the Piazza Unita d’ Italia which is Trieste’s grand public square (top photo). Along the way are shops, bars, restaurants, pastry shops, and some interesting meandering side streets.

Locals call the 2 Moors who ring the bell atop the clock tower Michez and Jachez

The centerpiece of the Piazza Unita d’Italia is the 1870’s City Hall with its tall clock tower. Up at the top, two bronze Moors strike the bell to mark time.

In front of the city hall is the Fontana dei Quatro Continenti (4 Continents Fountain). Designed in the 1700’s when only 4 continents were known (Europe, Asia, Africa, the Americas), each is represented by sculptures at the corners of the fountain. On top is a winged female figure, facing the sea, who represents Trieste.

Removed from the piazza in the 1930’s (our guide said that Mussolini ordered it removed because he didn’t like the non-Italian cultures depicted), it was restored and put back in place only about 25 years ago. Today it is a fountain without water, in part because when the Bora blows the spray of water would turn the piazza into an icy hazard.

Fontana dei Quatro Continenti, the African corner

From Piazza Unita d’Italia the pedestrian path continues through Piazza della Borsa (site of the old Stock Exchange, below).

Then it is on to the Grand Canal and Piazza del Ponterosso (look for the famous statue of James Joyce). This is the perfect place to end a walk through town with a spritz.

Further inland from the Gulf, Trieste becomes hilly with a steep climb up to its high point and the Castello San Giusto. More on that coming up in future posts along with some of Trieste’s Roman History.

Looking down on the Gulf of Trieste from our apartment building - a steep 15 minute walk to the Piccolo Università Italiana where we studied for 2 weeks

When a friend writes and suggests meeting in Trieste for some fun and a couple of weeks of language study, there really is only one correct answer - Si !!

That is especially true if Trieste is a city I you’ve never visited, in a part of Italy that you don’t know well. Both were true for me. Not to mention that my Italian grammar is always in need of a tune up, so two weeks of organized and directed study is always a good idea.

Add to the above the fact that Trieste sits right on a big body of water - the Gulf of Trieste. And, where there is a sea there is sure to be seafood. Having lived many years in land-locked New Mexico, anywhere with water and seafood is a big draw. No surprise then that on the first day there we headed to the waterfront for a first glance of the city. Or that my first meal was a wonderful Spaghetti alle Vongole.

Trieste is an important port, not only for Italy but for the central and eastern European countries, several of which have no sea access of their own. The center and surrounding areas are a center for shipping, ship building, and commerce. Trieste also has a harbor for smaller recreational boats. There is just something joyful about seeing all those small boats with their tall masts, even if the still cold weather meant it wasn’t quite sailing seasdurinon yet.

The strip of city along the water is also a place where people go to stroll, for recreation, and for dining. Turn one direction and see tall masts, large ships, and even an impounded Russian yacht which has become a sort of landmark. A series of bronze statues at one of the piers speaks to Trieste’s history.

Look further down the waterfront and find the old Aquarium (now an exhibit space). During my visit the Aquarium was hosting an interesting exhibit of objects made from recycled materials and some gigantic robots who were named for their roles in maintaining the environment.

Turn around and the city begins to unfold before you with ornate buildings, fancy hotels, and a historic square, the Piazza Unita d’Italia. Beautiful by day and even better when lit up at night.

There is even a rather short Grand Canal which leads from the bay a runs a little way into the city. It’s a hint of Venice in Trieste and a great spot for an aperitivo.

Trieste’s Grand Canal once moved goods into the city from the port. Today it is a great place to sit for an aperitivo or begin a walk through the pedestrian areas of Trieste

There is so much more to say about Trieste, but for now I am happy to just appreciate its waterfront.

Città Vecchia, Trieste

Trieste at First Glance