Two Parts Italy

A cold and rainy March gave way to an April with very erratic weather in northern Italy. Some days felt very much like spring, a couple of days brought summer temperatures, and other days were unseasonably cold. But that didn’t stop spring produce from appearing in the markets, providing lots of inspiration for early spring cooking. I spent some time earlier this month in Padova, a city with an exceptionally good food market. Fortunately, I had a sunny day perfect for exploring the market. A morning spent shopping here is, to me at least, every bit as wonderful as visiting the major attractions of the city.

The Palazzo della Ragione provides a beautiful and historic backdrop for Padova’s market

Part of the market takes place outdoors in front of the beautiful Palazzo della Ragione where a piazza full of stalls sell the freshest, most beautiful produce. It would be hard to ask for a better setting than this historic spot.

In April the spring vegetables take center stage. The colorful choices start with a whole palette of shades of green. Fat green asparagus sit alongside the white variety, playing off the thin deep green shoots of the nearby agretti and bags of shelled peas.

The leeks are pale with green tops while the fresh pea pods are a vibrant shade of green. There are green with a yellow tinge fava beans, perfect to snack on paired with a bit of salty cheese. And broad, flat green beans which remind me of the ones my Italian grandfather grew in his New York backyard.

For contrast, yellow and red peppers provide some brilliant color alongside pale white new onions and golden brown new potatoes.

Purple tinged artichokes are piled up to be sold whole or already trimmed and either cut in half or pared down to just the heart (why can’t I find these in Lucca?).

The strawberries are mouthwatering – they were bright red, sweet, and delicious.

The second half of the market takes place indoors underneath the Palazzo della Ragione.

Here you’ll find carnivore heaven with the most wonderful selection of meats. The Macellai (butchers) display everything from simple cuts to prepared rolled and stuffed roasts of beef, chicken, guinea fowl, and turkey. Prepared polpette (meatballs) too. The salumeria (delis) have salami, prosciutto, bresaola, and other meats for slicing.

The Pescivendoli (fishmongers) sell whole fish, fillets, big piovra (octopus), sardines and anchovies, shrimp, and lots of shellfish varieties. Whipped baccala (a specialy of the Venetian area) is available by the scoopful.

And the formaggi (cheeses)! The scent is swoon-worthy and the choices seemingly endless.

Other stalls display olives, cicchetti (those small Venetian style bites of goodness), fresh pasta, grains, spices, honey, and a wide selection of prepared foods. The flower stall was colorful and featured spring tulips.

Everytime I visit this market I begin to think that I should move to Padova - it really is a cook’s dream. My next visit will have to be longer and in an apartment with a kitchen! If the springtime market is this wonderful, just imagine what summer will bring!

Padova (Padua) is a wonderful, vibrant university town located just 30 minutes by train from Venezia (Venice) and about 4 1/2 hours from my home in Lucca. It’s a wonderful place, full of important churches, art, museums, and historic buildings. It is one of my favorite cities to visit in Italy.

The architecture of Padova has a Byzantine influence.

One of the city’s major attractions, the stunning Scrovegni Chapel, is filled with Giotto frescoes. They are exquisite and beautifully preserved.

The Basilica of Saint Anthony draws worshippers along with those who appreciate art, architecture, history, and Italian culture. They are two of Padova’s major attractions, essential to see on a first visit to the city.

One of the major advantages of living in Lucca is the ability to visit places like Padova easily and often, sometimes just using it as a base for exploring nearby places.

That was the case on my most recent visit, one in which I didn’t (gasp!) visit either the Scrovegni Chapel or the Basilica of Saint Anthony.

Instead, my travel companion and I spent time leisurely walking through town. We popped into lesser-known churches. We visited the market (and drooled over the food choices). We spent time in two of the city’s wonderful parks.

We made a spontaneous stop at a fantastic Monet exhibit in one of the city’s museums. The closest we got to Saint Anthony’s Basilica was sitting in a nearby cafe where we sipped an Aperol Spritz while gazing at the beautiful and unique domes of the church.

Along with a small group of friends, I boarded a boat for a day-long Brenta Canal cruise between Padova and Venezia and a chance to visit 3 historic villas along the way. More detail about that in some future coming posts.

One afternoon, we hopped a train to nearby Vicenza to get a flavor for the city and see a 500+ year old theater designed by Palladio.

For anyone who has not yet been to Padova, a 4 day stay would allow for a visit to the Scrovegni Chapel (advance tickets required) and the Basilica of Saint Anthony, a one day Brenta Canal cruise, and a couple of days to wander the city visiting some of the other historic places, churches, the market, the Prate della Valle park and leisurely strolling around this beautiful and vibrant city.

And don’t forget to try the Venetian style cicchetti ! It makes a wonderful dinner.

A Spring Time Market in Padova

Out and About in Padova