An Autumn Weekend in Pontremoli

For 5 days at the end of October and beginning of November my Italian hometown of Lucca hosts the huge Lucca Comics and Games event.   Picture 75,000+ people a day descending on the small, walled city and a series of white tents lining the historic walls and filling the piazzas.   It is an important economic event for the city and a big deal for afficionados of costumes, gaming, anime, superheroes and the like.  Lots of people love it, but for some of us it is simply crowds and chaos.  This year, after two pandemic years in which the festival was cancelled (2020) or scaled back (2021), the crowds were predicted to be bigger than ever.  That made it the perfect time to for me to plan an out-of-town escape. 

One of Pontremoli’s small alleyways - an invitation to explore!

 This year my “escape from comics” destination was suggested by Nancy, one of Two Parts Italy’s readers. Just as I was trying to decide where to go over comics, I received a lovely email from her asking if I’d ever been to Pontremoli.  She went on to say that she had just spent several days there and thought it was just the kind of place I would love.  She included photos and recommendations for things to do.  What serendipity!  I had never been to Pontremoli and receiving that email was all the inspiration I needed.  I quickly found that I could get to Pontremoli by train from Lucca in under 2 hours.  I found a lovely Airbnb apartment to rent and a friend who was ready to share the adventure.  The more I read about the town, the more excited I was to visit. I am so glad that Nancy took the time to write to me!

Pontremoli is a village in the Massa-Carrara Province of Tuscany, population around 7000.  The town lies in the historical region of the Lunigiana, which straddles the regions of Tuscany and Liguria.  It is a region of mountains, forests, rivers, old towers, castles, and small medieval hamlets.  The Via Francigena, the pilgrim’s route between Canterbury and Rome, crosses the area including right through Pontremoli. 

Pontremoli’s historic center as seen from one of the foot bridges over the Torrente Verde

 Like many of the medieval towns in the region, Pontremoli has a well-preserved centro storico (historic center) which feels a world apart from the more modern town beyond.  The centro storico is wedged between two rivers, the Torrente Verde and the Fiume Magra.  The rivers are crossed by a series of old stone bridges.  Ponte is the Italian word for bridge and Pontremoli means trembling bridge.  Perhaps the original, ancient wooden bridges trembled, but today the bridges are rock solid. 

Several of the bridges are for foot traffic only. Strolling across them gives views of the green riverbanks, parks, medieval buildings, and the Castello del Piagnaro which sits high above the village. 

My companion and I quickly settled into the habit of a daily walk across the Ponte della Cresa to the north, down the green space along the Torrente Verde, across the Ponte Stemma on the south, and to the tip of Pontremoli where the Torrente Verde joins the Fiume Magra, forming one larger river. A green and peaceful park sits at this spot, quiet other than the sound of the tumbling waters of the two rivers. 

During this October visit the trees where changing colors and the fallen leaves made for a special landscape during our walks.

The Torre del Cacciaguerra, Pontremoli

 The historic center stretches between two tower gates along what is basically one long street, although the street name changes several times from Via Cavour to Via Armani to Via Garibaldi. 

Along the way are two side-by-side piazzas, the Piazza della Repubblica and the Piazza del Duomo.  Long ago the two piazzas divided the town between two opposing groups, the Guelphs and Ghibellines, preventing all-out conflict. 

A very tall campanile (bell tower), built in 1322 as part of a city fortress, stands between the two piazzas and is known by two names – The Campanone (meaning really big bell tower) and the Torre del Cacciaguerra (Tower of the War Fighters). 

Today there are no warring factions and the two pretty squares are ringed with cafes and shops. The piazzas are also where the Saturday market is held. Visiting a local Saturday market is a great cultural experience in any small village and the one in Pontremoli was no exception. Local produce, especially from the fall harvest, made for a colorful market.

The route to the castle

 Off the main street are several alleys which climb up towards the castle.  The walk is uphill but not terribly steep and the experience of wandering through the medieval castle village is well worth the climb.  The castle also houses a museum with pre-historic rock carvings called Stele.  More on the castle and the Stele in a future post !

 Pontremoli was a perfect fall getaway and wonderful spot for a long weekend.  Views over the river, the sound of rushing water, green spaces, changing leaves, and stone bridges made for a perfect weekend escape.

Adding to the fun, we found some wonderful restaurants serving local dishes such as Testaroli (a type of large round crepe) with Pesto and Frittelle di Farina di Castagna (little fried chestnut flour cakes) con Ricotta. 

For morning coffee and a pastry, the Antica Pasticceria e Caffè degli Svizzeri with its scrumptious pastries and beautiful liberty-style café, can’t be beat. 

Where the Torrente Verde joins the Fiume Magra

Agriturismo Cretaiole and Luciano's Farm

Some places, and some people, are special.  Agriturismo Cretaiole is one such place and Luciano Moricciani, its founder, is the special person who started it all.  Son Carlo and grandson Nicco, both of whom are pretty special too, have taken over much of the day-to-day operations at the Cretaiole with the help of the delightful Fernanda who is a whiz at organizing everything for guests. But it is Luciano, at 82 years of age, who remains the steady hand, keeper of history, and the warm heart behind the agriturismo and farm.  

Agriturismo Cretaiole - a classic Tuscan stone farmhouse with beautiful accommodations for up to 20 guests.

 I’ve written about Cretaiole before – after my first visit in 2016 and again in 2020. The 2020 visit took place during the pandemic when no other tourists were around. At that time, Carlo kindly allowed my friend and I to stay and participate in the olive harvest.  The quiet of that visit was quite a contrast to the laughter and activity during my first stay. For more info, the previous posts can be found here: www.twopartsitaly.com/2020/11/2/1erwrj2r1njhhb89nvw9j1b43wv5ic. www.twopartsitaly.com/2016/12/14/a-week-at-agriturismo-cretiaole

The living room / kitchen of the Il Granaio apartment at Cretaiole

This year the visitors have returned, many of whom waited nearly three years to reschedule pandemic cancelled trips.  They came for many reasons – the beauty of the Val d’Orcia, the excellent local wines, the peacefulness of Cretaiole’s setting. They also arrived to take part in the wonderful activities included in Cretaiole’s “Dolce Vita” package - pici making, truffle hunting, early morning hikes, group dinners, wine and olive oil tasting. And then there is “The Isabella Experience” which includes luxury linens and many special touches as well as the opportunity to visit all the small villages of the Val d’Orcia which are just a short drive from Cretaiole. 

And, as one guest told me, she came because she’d read about Luciano in several blog posts and had been waiting for 3 years to drink grappa with him! 

 One of the highlights of a Cretaiole stay is a chance to visit Luciano’s farm, Podere San Gregorio, just 10 minutes from Cretaiole.  During my October visit Luciano was recovering from a fall but he was still enthusiastic about walking the farm with us.  He is the person most involved with the animals including sheep, chickens, geese, guinea fowl, one goat, a friendly dog, and some very large pigs.  The sheep are pretty much pets but the pigs are the source of some of the farm’s specialties – prosciutto and salami – all prepared on-site. 

The farm tour includes a stop at the barn where some of the oldest farm tools can be seen and where fascinating tales of the old ways of picking olives and harvesting wheat are told by both Luciano and grandson Nicco.  It is easy to imagine the young Luciano scrambling up the trees on the rather rickety ladder that still hangs in the barn, basket at his waist, collecting olives and trying not to fall out of the tree (a common hazard in those days).

Luciano and me at Podere San Gregorio. I will present this photo on my return to claim a bottle of his Vin Santo.

Next stop: the building where the preparation of meats, sauces, and Vin Santo takes place.  A promise was made that anyone who returns to the farm and presents a photo of themselves with Luciano, hands on the Vin Santo casks, takes home a free bottle.  You can bet I have that photo saved, more because I hope to have another visit with Luciano then for the free bottle. Although that Vin Santo is really tasty!

 Behind the work room is the small room where the white grapes for vin santo are dried. The grapes were still quite moist in mid-October, having only been harvested two weeks before.  They tasted sweet and the aroma was wonderful.

 Besides the barn, garden, work rooms, and animals there is also the large space where the wine is made and the olive oil stored.  Next door is an aging room for pecorino cheese, prosciutto, and salami. The grape harvest had taken place a week or two before, the grapes pressed and the wine placed into the large vats to begin fermenting.  Huge piles of dried grape skins remained, waiting to be sent off to grappa makers.  The olive harvest will take place in late October / early November, so soon the olive oil tanks will be filled with the new 2022 oil.  I would like to go back even if just to buy some of the new oil.

 After the farm tour we all gathered around tables for a straight-from-the-farm lunch.  Slices of bread with Cretaiole olive oil (it is really, really good), local pecorino aged on the farm, platters of prosciutto and salami, caprese salad, and Cretaiole red wine (also quite good).  We finished with some of Luciano’s very special Vin Santo and cantucci for dipping. There may even have been a bit of grappa poured.

It was wonderful to have Luciano with us on the farm tour and again at Cretaiole’s group pici dinner.   He clearly enjoys sharing his stories and his farm with visitors.  He also enjoys talking with visitors and hearing the stories they tell (he speaks Italian and is also great at using google translate to speak with English speaking visitors).  He has a lifetime of experience as an authentic Tuscan contadino (farmer) but, even better, he shares the joy of his land, his family, his farm, and his heart.  Luciano is one very special part of the Cretaiole experience. 

Ti voglio bene Luciano!

A Walk Through Brisighella

The region of Emilia-Romagna stretches from Tuscany to the Adriatic coast. Many of its cities are well known for their cuisine. It is some of the best in Italy - think Bologna, Parma, and Modena. Of course this region also makes some outstanding cars and motorcycles with famous names like Ferrari, Ducati, Lamborghini, Maserati. Beyond that, there is one of the oldest universities in the world, the University of Bologna. It is a region full of diverse riches including a host of UNESCO World Heritage sites.

The Treno di Dante makes a 90 minute stop in Brisighella on some of its itineraries.

There are still some hidden gems in Emilia - Romagna, places off the usual tourist routes. One of these places is the borgo (small village) of Brisighella. I knew nothing about this hamlet before I booked my passage on the vintage Treno di Dante (Dante’s Train) which made a stop there on the way to Ravenna. I included a few photos of Brisighella in last week’s post about the Treno di Dante, but I had so many more photos of this intriguing little village that I had to give it its very own post.

A 90 minute whistle stop doesn’t give nearly enough time to get to know this medieval village. But it’s enough time to spark curiosity and a desire to return. I am already thinking about another visit, perhaps next spring when there is a celebration of the local specialty, the Moretto artichoke. In the meantime, I will share some glimpses of this intriguing borgo.

Looking over Brisighella’s rooftops from up above the Via degli Asini

“Main Street” in Brisighella

From the train station, it is a short walk through a pretty park to get to the center of town.

There is one primary street, lined with cafes, shops, and small restaurants. The buildings are colorful, artisan goods spill out of the shops to invite browsing, and there are lots of flowers. Even the street signs are interesting.

Small alleys and steep stairs branch out from the main road.

The views of the surrounding hills add to the joy of wandering through town.

Above the town are two landmarks. The first is the castle fortress, the Rocca Manfrediana, built in the 14th centrury. The second is the not-quite-so-old (19th century) Torre dell’Orologia (clock tower) that seems to rise magically from the rock formation at its base. In some ways the entire city seems to have risen from the rocks.

Rising above the main street is the Via del Borgo, also known as the Via degli Asini. Long ago this was an important defensive structure. Later asini (donkeys) climbed this street with their loads of gypsum. Today it is lined with small homes with characteristic wooden doors, pretty windows, and a series of arches framing views of the street below and the distant hills.

Up above the Via degli Asini is a pathway that leads to views of rooftops, distant hills, and the fortress. As for the donkeys, the only ones we saw were in a ceramic shop - a colorful souvenir of a stop in Brisighella.

Like other places in Emiglia - Romagna, Brisighella is supposed to have excellent food. On my short visit there was no time for lunch, just a quick coffee. This gives me one more reason to plan a return visit. Next time I will take the regular train, about a 3 1/2 hour journey from my home in Lucca. With winter coming up, I’ll enjoy doing some planning for spring adventures on cold winter morning.

Melograni (pomegranates) growing in Brisighella

November

November is a gentle month here in Lucca. The tourists, who returned this summer and lingered into September and October, have mostly returned to their homes. Lucca Comics and Games, smaller than usual this year but still bringing lots of costumed visitors to town over the Halloween weekend, has come and gone. We may have given up our summer Aperol Spritzes in favor of deep red wines but we are still enjoying outdoor seating at cafes. I am thankful for the ones that have set up heaters so that we can continue to sip a morning cappuccino or an evening aperitivo outside in a pretty piazza.

Of course the very best part of November is the explosion of color throughout Lucca. A walk along Le Mura (the ancient wall surrounding the historic center of town) is a kaleidoscope of changing views. The wall makes a complete circuit, so that some parts face north, others south, still others east or west. Each section is planted with different types of trees and receives varied amounts of sun and shade, so the type of foliage varies as does the progress of color change and the dropping of leaves. In November, the reds, golds, yellows, and browns provide a complex palette of hues. They contrast with the evergreen pine trees, the green of grass and moss, and the ever changing skies.

Along the southern stretch of the wall.

November walks along the wall engage other senses as well - the sound of dried leaves crunching under foot (or the squish of wet ones on rainy days) and the gentle touch of leaves drifting overhead like a colorful snow storm. But beware the less gentle feel of a chestnut falling on your head! And as a bonus - the distant sound of church bells ringing gives many of my November walks a pleasing soundtrack.

A view towards the Church of St. Gemma, outside the walls of Lucca.

Not all the colorful action takes place on the walls. From the walls, the views out over the larger city of Lucca are also full of fall beauty. And those distant hills!

Distant hills make a dramatic backdrop to the walls northern section.

Throughout town the season is changing too. A walk through the botanic gardens is enchanting at this time of year. The trees ringing Piazza Napoleone are changing colors too. Not all the color is on the trees - colorful scarfs are wrapped around the necks of everyone to ward off the chilly weather.

Piazza Napoleone

Street vendors are beginning to roast chestnuts, a smell that hints of winter just around the corner. And while many of the Americans here are beginning to plan Thanksgiving dinners (we are oh so thankful that we can gather together this year), local shops are already beginning to display Christmas goods (I am not ready for that yet!)

Fall in the Orto Botanico (Botanic Garden)

November here is so lovely - the chilly mornings, the long hours of dusk, the mild temperatures, the colorful trees, even the scattered rain showers. Lucca continues to enchant.

Hello Lucca

After several months away, it is a joy to be back in Lucca. I feel a bit like the little bunny in the children’s book Goodnight Moon - only instead of saying goodnight to every little thing, I wander around Lucca saying hello as I greet my favorite sights, sounds, and people.

Piazza San Frediano

Hello pretty square where I can sip a morning cappuccino or an evening cocktail. Hello Torre Guinigi with your tall trees on top. Hello church bells. Hello Saturday flower market in Piazza San Michele.

Hello to the music school with the sounds of practicing students spilling from the windows. Hello stunning architecture. Hello blue Tuscan skies. Hello to Le Mura, the tree-lined wall surrounding the historic center. Hello flower filled balconies. Hello to “La Pupporona”, the graceful nymph who sits atop my very favorite Lucchese fountain.

Hello to the musical Italian language. Hello Maestro Puccini. Hello aperol spritzes on warm summer evenings. Hello gelato! How I’ve missed you all.

Piazza Cittadella - always a favorite spot. That’s Puccini keeping watch over the piazza.

It’s wonderful to say hello to friends I’ve missed while I was away. We have so much catching up to do. And to all my favorite shopkeepers, teachers, and restaurant staff - hello and please excuse my rusty Italian

Some things have surprised me as I’ve slipped back into life in Lucca. I had almost forgotten how lively it is here in a “normal” summer. And while we are not really back to normal yet (masks are still required indoors, the green pass is the new essential, and COVID still poses a threat) there is a definite upbeat change in atmosphere. The streets are busy, tourists have returned, and social groups are meeting once again (outdoors mostly).

While most of the visitors right now are from EU countries, the Americans and Canadians are arriving too, despite frequently changing requirements. One example of those changes - when I arrived on August 28th I needed only to show proof of vaccination status and complete the EU PLF (the on-line passenger tracking form). As of September 1 however, visitors from the US and Canada also need a negative covid test 72 hours before arrival. No quarantine required if fully vaccinated and COVID negative but be prepared to show proof of vaccination and a photo ID to enter most venues.

The return of art exhibits is definitely something to savor. This one is a personal favorite of mine.

Another pleasant find is that while summer 2020 saw the cancellation of almost all events, this summer there are posters up throughout the city advertising concerts, garden shows, art exhibits, and other upcoming events. This past weekend the fall garden show (Murabilia), cancelled last September, took place along the city walls.

Perhaps best of all, the Cartasia (Biennale poster above) art show has returned (after a year’s delay) with installations all through town. I’m looking forward to exploring this always fascinating display of paper art.

One of the many paper art installations around Lucca, part of the Lucca Biennale Cartasia show.

I’m looking forward to visits from several American friends in the next few weeks and to doing some fall travel within Italy. And even though I already miss my family and friends in the US, it is good to be back. Hello Lucca!