Christmas in the Piazza

Piazza San Salvatore, Lucca

The historic center of Lucca has a medieval street plan which includes narrow streets, stone and brick buildings, towers, and a series of piazzas. The warmly colored buildings and the open spaces of the piazzas provide a perfect backdrop any time of year, but especially during the holiday season.

Each piazza in the historic center has some type of Christmas display. From traditional Christmas trees to oversize ornaments to metallic trees and old fashioned Christmas markets, the holiday vibe is everywhere. Overhead, the streets and piazzas have strings of lights and luminous stars. The ancient amphitheater has a projected light show on its curved walls, not to mention a giant Babbo Natale which delights the kids.

Piazza Napoleone is home to an ice skating rink and a Christmas market. The sounds of blades on ice, happy voices, and laughter accompany kids of all ages (and a few brave adults) as they skate around the rink. This is also where the carousel, decorated for the season, whirls kids and parents round and round.

Just beyond lies Piazza del Giglio, where the theater glows with lights and an oversize Christmas ornament lights up the piazza at night. The kids particularly like that they can walk through the ornament. As for the grownups, well there seem to be a lot of couples who stop inside for a photo or a kiss.

This year a group of artists were invited by the city of Lucca to create unique expressions reflecting Christmas themes. Their creativity fills the squares, streets, and even stretches to underneath the historic walls. Many of their creations are non-traditional or abstract, bringing a new sense of fun to the season. Pictured below: a recycled Christmas tree made entirely of plastic in Piazza Scalpellini and a very abstract tree, by Francesco Zavattari, which anchors a holiday chocolate market in Piazza Guidiccioni.

Piazza San Giovanni hosts a modern take on a woodland forest. Designed by local artist Emiliana Martinelli, it is edged with LED lights that cycle through a range of colors. Quite a contrast with the ancient church as a back drop.

Piazza del Duomo is host to one of my favorite installations. Designed by Michel Boucquillon and Donia Maaoui for the Alessi design company, this 18 foot high metallic tree, decorated with large round ornaments and a star at the top, is red on one side and silver on the other. During the day it reflects the surrounding buildings and at night it glows with reflective lights.

In the center of Lucca, the church of San Michele provides the backdrop for the largest Christmas tree in town. Locals turned out for the tree lighting ceremony on November 25th, a fun start to the Christmas installations throughout town. Under the loggia just across the square is a life size precepe (nativity scene). In Italy, nativity scenes include whole villages of people and this one is no exception. The figures are the work of the historic Giovacchino Marchi company, makers of nativity figurines since 1930.

Not all of the magic happens above ground. Underneath a section of the wall is a modern fairyland of snow and stars, another work by Francesco Zavattari. It is an unexpected surprise when taking the shortcut under the walls out into Lucca beyond the center.

Cold nights, bright lights, and Christmas magic - a perfect time for a walk through Lucca.

Piazza San Frediano

From Villa Bertolli to Villa Santo Stefano: An Italian Story of Olives, Grapes, and Families

Most Italian fairytales begin with these words: C’era una volta (loosely translated as “once upon a time”). Today I have a bit of a true-life fairytale to tell, so I will start with those words.

C’era una volta, around 160 years ago, when Francesco and Caterina Bertolli tended to their olives, pressed them, and sold the olive oil out of a small shop in the San Donato neighborhood of Lucca in Tuscany. They also grew grapes on their land and made a little wine, though the oil was their main product.

In the late 1800’s, some Bertolli family members emigrated to the United States and began to import the family’s olive oil, making Bertolli the first Italian olive oil to establish as US presence. Eventually the business in Lucca passed down through the generations. The company was nationalized by Mussolini in the 1930’s and by 1972 the family no longer owned the company or the rights to the Bertolli name for their olive oil. Not all fairytales have happy endings! The family did still own a lovely piece of property in the hills above Lucca, the Villa Bertolli, which had olive trees and around 1 hectare (about 2.5 acres) of vineyard. The fairytale doesn’t end yet though, for there is another chapter yet to come.

A view of the valley from the former Villa Bertolli

The tale continues in 2001 when a German couple, Wolfgang Reitzle and Nina Ruge, purchased the historic property from the Bertolli family. Originally they thought of it as a vacation property, and the property certainly had fairytale-like qualities that would make it perfect as a vacation spot. But Mr. Reitzle soon became interested in both the olive oil and the small production of wine on the estate. Since purchasing the property he has expanded it to include 12 hectares of land, made a serious study of winemaking, hired some very talented winemakers, and become the proprietor of a thriving vineyard and winery, now renamed Villa Santo Stefano. The name comes from the historic church of Santo Stefano which is just up the road from the villa. Today the villa not only produces wonderful wines but also their own label of extra virgin olive oil, a nod to those long ago Bertollis. The winery also gives tours and tastings, by appointment, and also offers guest lodging.

Villa Santo Stefano is an elegant estate. And the views! The property overlooks vineyards and valleys, has graceful covered pergolas, fountains, and immaculate landscaping. I would happily do any job needed, from trimming the flowers to sweeping out the cellars, if only I could live on site!

One of the restored buildings, now home to guest suites, at Villa Santo Stefano

Petra, sharing information about the wines of Vila Santo Stefano (the old rattan wrapped bottles at the bottom are left over from the Bertolli’s)

On a recent Sunday, a small group of friends and I made a visit to the villa. We were escorted through the property by the very knowledgeable estate manager, Petra Pforr.

Petra shared the history of the estate, the grape varietals grown, the evolution of the wine production, along with the details of Villa Santo Stefano’s production philosophy and processes. The information she shared was fascinating!

Several of the estate buildings have been restored and include exquisite, luxurious guest spaces. The suites range from cozy yet upscale mini-apartments to a large villa in the former barn. The large villa has multiple bedrooms, an elegant living room, a spectacular kitchen, and a large outdoor space with a private pool. Oh to be a guest there!

The winery may be a relatively small operation, producing around 50,000 bottles per year, but it is an incredibly high-tech one. No dark cellars or dusty old bottles here. No seen-better-days barrels. Each part of the facilty is modern and spacious. Computers control the temperature and humidity to create optimum conditions for maturing wines. The steel tanks gleam and clear glass rods along the sides of the tanks give a sneak peak of the red and rosato wines fermenting inside. I’ve never thought of steel vats as beautiful before, but the ones as Villa Santo Stefano seem like works of art crossed with modern scientific instruments.

The cellar is large with vaulted brick ceilings and soft lighting. Lining the space are beautiful French oak barrels, about 1/3 of which are replaced each year. That is a costly undertaking but essential in maintaining the quality of the wines. And quality is key at Villa Santo Stefano.

Of course the most important part of a winery is the wines themselves - and Villa Santo Stefano did not disappoint. During the tasting, in the estates beautiful banquet room, Petra discussed each wine including the grapes used and its unique characteristics.

The wines we sampled included a delicate pale pink Rosato (Luna), a crisp Vermentino (Gioia), and 3 different reds (Volo, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, and Alicante grapes), Sereno (an 80% Sangiovese blend, a Super Tuscan) and Loto (a Cabernet, Merlot, and Petit Verdot blend).

Loto is considered the Villa’s signature wine. It was the first one produced at Santo Stefano in 2006. Lots is a lovely wine, deep red in color with just the right fullness and dryness. I could tell you I tasted berries, smoke, and vanilla but that would only mean that I read the brochure! I just know that the first taste made me smile and want to sip some more. I liked all the wines we tasted, but this is the one I took home with me - though I may have to go back in summer for some of the Rosato, which would be the perfect crisp summer wine. Then again, the Vermentino and the other two reds were really good too. I think each of my friends had a different favorite. We definitely all carried some home with us.

A visit to Villa Santo Stefano is a treat. The setting is spectacular, the guest suites drool-worthy, the production areas high-tech yet with the personal touch of the winemakers. The vats and the barrel room are the stuff of fairytales for wine lovers. Thanks so much to Petra for sharing her knowledge and love of wine and of this very special property! Thanks also go to the long ago Bertolli family and the current Reitzle - Ruge family for sharing their property and their stories.

For more information: www.villa-santostefano.it or Petra.pforr@villa-santostefano.it

A Fountain of Beauty in Lucca

I probably have more photos of her than of any other subject in Lucca - photos taken from every angle, in every light, in every season.  She is a fascinating subject and one of Lucca’s most graceful landmarks.  She is The Naiade or Water Nymph.

 The Naiade rests atop one of Lucca’s many fountains, built in the 1800’s to bring fresh water to the city via Nottolini’s aqueduct. 

Some of the fountains are simple utilitarian structures but are few are quite decorative, none more so than the Naiade fountain. 

She was sculpted by Luigi Camolli from a design by Nottolini, one of Lucca’s most famous architects and sculptors.  She turns an ordinary fountain into a work of art.

The fountain itself is a marvel.  At the base is a large bathtub-like marble basin resting on claw feet and decorated with lion’s heads.  Above the large basin is a rectangular marble column with water spigots on 3 sides, each one placed above a small basin.  This is where so many Lucchese come to fill containers with fresh water direct from the hills beyond Lucca.  Locals swear this water is much better, and much more tasty, than either tap or bottled water.  Some even have a preferred spigot, always filling their bottles from one side of the fountain.   More than just a place to get water, this is also a gathering spot and a place for social connections.

 Above the fountain sits the Naiade who is commonly known by a much less proper nickname.  To locals she is “La Pupporona” which loosely translates to “The Busty One”, so called because of her one exposed breast (in Tuscan dialect the word puppora means breast).  That breast so scandalized a long-ago bishop that he tried to have the statue removed.  Fortunately he did not succeed! 

 The Pupporona is elegant, with softly draped folds in her garments, curvy hips, and perfectly coiffed hair.  She is made even more striking by the backdrop offered by the surrounding buildings, including the oche colored Church of San Salvatore (also known as the Church of the Misericordia).  The piazza where she resides is also named Salvatore, but don’t be surprised to hear it called Piazza della Pupporona, such is her fame.    

 Much loved by locals, she is occasionally adorned with a red scarf, a symbol of support for female victims of domestic violence.  Once, back in 2017, she was vandalized when someone drew a mustache on her face during the night.  Che peccato! The damage was quickly repaired.  I don’t believe the culprits were ever caught, but the vandalism caused quite an uproar. 

 On one of my first visits to Lucca I snapped a photo of the Naiade long before I knew the story behind her creation.  I just knew that she was lovely and she quickly became the representative image of Lucca in my memory.  Today, that photo is one I use as the symbol for Two Parts Italy and which accompanies each Monday morning email to subscribers.  It is still one of my all time favorite photos.  Be sure to stop by this small piazza when you visit Lucca. And don’t forget to fill your water bottle!

The statue of the Pupporona at Christmas time

An Artist In Tuscany

Flowers are often a focus of Kat’s work. Bright reds, yellows, purples, and shades of green - all stunning.

Could there be a more perfect place for an artist to live than Tuscany ?  The light is magnificent, the sky a special shade of blue.  The green hills shimmer and flowers appear in waves of color.  There is something in the very air of Tuscany that inspires.  All these magical Tuscan qualities come to life in the brushstrokes on canvas of artist Katerina (Kat) Ring. 

 Originally from California, Kat has lived and studied in many places. All of them have influenced her art – from Coronado Island, to Europe and even a decade of living in Zambia where she was inspired by African wildlife and vistas.  

 Today, Kat lives just outside the Tuscan town of Lucca where she paints local scenes, landscapes, flowers spilling from windows or blooming in fields, and slices of everyday Tuscan life. 

Of course there is Italian magic well beyond the borders of Tuscany, and so Kat often ventures to other areas of Italy, especially to the seaside, capturing the essence of these places in paint.

Lerici, on the Bay of Poets, captured in an oil painting.

 Painting mostly in oils, Kat is an artist “en plein air” – which means you are likely to find her easel set up alongside a rustic building, a sparking bay filled with boats, a field of flowers, an old bridge, or a pretty street.  And she is sure to stop for a field of sunflowers or a tree heavy with ripe figs.  

Kat describes her style like this: She prefers painting-in-place and capturing the sights, scents, light, and feel of a place. Her paintings do not strive to be photographic snapshots. Rather her scenes unfold as she perceives them - the periphery abstract, adding to the total picture but a bit out of focus. Moving toward the central image things become more clear, less abstract, more impressionistic. Finally, there is clarity and detail towards the center as the eye focuses on an object or group of objects.

Windows are always fascinating and this one is captured perfectly.

 Kat’s paintings are compelling for anyone who loves Italy – the use of color, the gorgeous flowers, the windows, the countryside, the sea. They transport the viewer directly into the heart of Italy.  To see more examples of Kat’s work, her portfolio can be found at www.katring.com and on Facebook.

This Tuscan landscape by Kat Ring hangs in my apartment in Italy. It evokes everything I love about the Tuscan countryside

The gallery is open from Sept 1 - Oct 16, lots of lovely works to see.

If you happen to be in Lucca this fall, you’ll find Kat’s “pop up gallery” at the north end of Via Fillungo, near the medieval Porta dei Borghi gate, from September 1st through October 22nd.  Her recent works are on display and she is on hand for questions about the places and scenes in the paintings.

 Contact info: 

Instagram: katringpaints

Website: www. katring.com 

Email: ringkat2@gmail.com

 All images used with permission.

An Italian Decade

August has come and gone, there are only a few weeks of summer left, and I have just arrived back in Lucca after a long visit with family in the US. Today I am feeling nostalgic - it was 10 years ago that I first came to Lucca, intending to have a “once in a lifetime” month of studying Italian here. Little did I know that the adventure would be much bigger than I realized at that time. Once in a lifetime turned quickly turned into once a year, then twice a year, and then, in 2018, a move to Lucca where I now spend the majority of each year. That first excursion to Lucca was a decade ago, my Italian decade. With that in mind, I thought I’d share some of my favorite photo memories from each of the last 10 years in Lucca, beginning with the gardens of Palazzo Pfanner, one of my favorite spots (top photo, from 2012).

2013 - Another garden, the Orto Botanico. I snapped this photo of two friends, some of the dearest people I have ever met, at the end of our garden visit.

2014 - An excursion to Pisa with Lucca Italian School. Those storm clouds !

2015 - One of the many Medieval celebrations in Lucca. I still never miss a chance to see one of these. I’ve gained a new appreciation for men in tights, ancient weaponry, and flag throwing.

2016 - The year I retired and went a little crazy - making three trips to Lucca. Spring (below left) and my favorite view from Lucca’s wall. Fall means beans for soup at Bottega di Prospero, one of Lucca’s oldest markets. Winter brought my first Christmas season in Lucca (made possible by a ridiculously low $400 round trip airfare!).

2017 - Spring in Lucca and another chance to study in the beautiful Liberty Style building that houses Lucca Italian School. The Santa Zita flower market, something to look forward to each spring. My favorite of the many beautiful stands of wisteria that herald spring in Lucca. The Rolling Stones came to Lucca in Fall of 2017, these posters were everywhere! The Volto Santo Procession and a medieval archery competition, both part of the Settembre Lucchese events.

2018 - Summer fun in the piazza. One of Lucca’s outdoor art exhibits. My first home in Lucca - what a thrill to see my own name on the doorbell.

2019 - A cold winter morning. Carnevale in Viareggio. A costumed participant at the Lucca Comics and Games Festival. A cooking class during Olive Oil week at Lucca Italian School.

2020 - Definitely a strange year ! Even the street art reflected the pandemic. Banners promising that all would be ok where everywhere, a sign of community spirit and hope. Christmas decorations were most welcome this year, especially with inspiring words from Dante.

2021 - Magnolias, the first sign of spring in Lucca. A sculpture from Cartasia, the celebration of paper art. Over the summer paintings of Puccini heroines appeared on many of the store shutters in Lucca, a delightful surprise.

2022 - This year marks 10 years of travel to Lucca and the easing of COVID travel rules, double the reason to celebrate. Verde Mura, the spring garden festival returned. My grandkids and daughter came to visit (finally)! The kids explored Lucca with local tour guide Diletta Barbieri. A happy group enjoying lunch after a cooking class at Extra Virgin Cooking. It has been a good year and it isn’t over yet ! Life is good in Lucca.