Christmas Windows in Lucca, Italy

Casa Antica, on Via San Giorgio, is one of the best places in Lucca to find Christmas decorations. It is also great if just browsing.

Walking through Lucca at night in December is all about the lights. Strings of lights glow overhead along the streets. Trees and oversize ornaments fill the piazzas. A stroll through town on a December evening is pure joy.

Day time brings a different kind of joy. The days are all about popping into shops and gazing into shop windows.

The stores are full of decorations ranging from simple to extravagant. Much as I tell myself that I really don’t need more decorations for my small apartment, it seems that I always find something that I just have to have.

All through the city, shop owners create fanciful window displays that capture the attention of children and adults alike.

Candy shops and gift shops are especially well decorated but jewelry shops, pharmacies, butchers, bakers, and even a woodworking shop have fun window displays.

A temporary exhibit under the loggia in Piazza San Michele has wonderful presepe (nativity scenes) on display along with hand-painted traditional nativity figures for sale. Italian presepe are fascinating and include whole villages of craftsmen, workers, and villagers in detailed settings.

Other shops have draped their doorways in lights and greenery. Chiasso Barletti, a pedestrian alley filled with shops, rolls out the red carpet and decorates all along the passageway.

Ditta Galliani, on Via Roma, sells exquisite housewares. Their spectacular widow displays (below) change weekly during the holiday season. Each one showcases a different collection of holiday china, ceramics, glassware, and ornaments. The ever changing arrangements attract a lot of attention as people stop at the window to admire the latest version. Lots of photos are taken here!

This year I am headed to New Mexico to spend the holidays with my family and Albuquerque friends. I am happy to have experienced all of Lucca’s holiday cheer before I jumped on a plane for Christmas in New Mexico, where the traditions are very different from those in Italy but still wonderful. It will be fun to experience Christmas on two continents this year !

Another of Ditta Galliani’s window displays

Holiday Magic Arrives in Lucca

Via Fillungo, in the evenings after the Tree Lighting ceremony

The winter holidays officially began in Lucca on the evening of November 26th with a community event marking the beginning of Lucca Magico Natale (Lucca Magical Christmas), a season that will last until Epiphany on January 6th. 

Over the preceding week, lights were strung along the streets in the historic center of town.  Next, decorations began to appear in the form of large Christmas trees and oversized Christmas ornaments in many of the piazzas.  However, none of the lights on the trees or ornaments were turned on until the ceremony on the 26th.

 The festivities began in Piazza Napoleone, the largest piazza in Lucca, with the opening of the pista di pattenaggio (ice skating rink).  This is a favorite of local kids, as is the full size sleigh with two sparkly reindeer in the lead.    

 Then came the big event – the lighting of the Albero di Natale, a massive 45 foot tall Christmas tree.  A crowd gathered to ooh and aah as the lights came on.  Not just simple lights, but ones that change color and pattern with swirls of light moving up the tree.  

The event next moved on to Piazza San Michele where a different kind to tree stood. That tree is much more modern, a multidimensional metal sculpture standing 16 feet tall.  The tree is a large version of the tabletop ones designed for Alessi, the very fashionable Italian housewares company, for their Christmas collection “Bark for Christmas”.

Across the piazza stands a large, modern Presepe (nativity), also an Alessi design.

Babbo Natale (Father Christmas) also made an appearance, accompanied by a princess who was definitely not Mrs. Claus!

Could she be Elsa from the Frozen movies? The children with delighted to pose for photos with both of them. 

Perhaps the best part of the ceremony in Piazza San Michele was the projection on the church of moving stars and baubles on a blue background.  It is a beautiful and festive display.

Mother Nature contributed a bit of magic too, providing a full moon rising over the rooftops surrounding the piazza.

The Church of San Michele at Christmastime.

The final stop on the lighting ceremony was in Piazza Anfiteatro (the Amphitheater Piazza) where a huge star with a comet-like tail filled the piazza with sparkle.  

Piazza Anfiteatro in the evenings after the lighting ceremony

Before the lights of the decorations were illuminated, a full moon brightened the piazza

Music was provided at each stop by the very lively Large Street Band, an energetic group of horn players. Babbo Natale and his companion danced to the music, holding hands with a circle of children.

The full moon hung over the Anfiteatro and there really was magic.

Piazza San Frediano, Lucca.

Walking through town after the ceremony, more large decorations were found in Piazza Scalpellini, Piazza San Frediano, and Piazza San Salvatore.   

Lucca is full of lights and sparkles this holiday season. Evening walks are going to be wonderful between now and January 6th!

Piazza Scalpellini, Lucca

September in Lucca

September is one of my favorite months in Italy.  It starts out as summer – hot and humid – and then slowly transforms itself into autumn. By late September the mornings and evenings are cool enough that sweaters and scarves make their first appearance of the season. The cooler weather is perfect for a passeggiata, the Italian tradition of an evening stroll, yet still pleasant enough for sitting outdoors at a cafe.  The AC (if one is lucky enough to have it) has been turned off and the windows are open, letting in cool breezes and the hint of fall that is in the air.

Late September skies are beautiful and the weather is pleasant.

 In Lucca, September is a unique month. It even has a special name -  Settembre Lucchese.  It is a month of festivals, artisan markets, concerts, and celebrations. 

This year September kicked off with Murabilia, the annual fall garden show.  Murabilia has everything for the fall garden, from plants to yard art to terracotta pots.  For inside the home there are delicate orchids, fall gourds, and pretty linens.  Artisans demonstrate and sell their crafts and food stands offer local products – meats, cheese, breads, garlic, and flavored syrups.  

September also brings the Palio della Santa Croce. The Palio is has its roots in medieval times as members of the three contrade (districts) in the historic center of Lucca engage in a crossbow competition. The event starts with a procession of musicians, flag throwers, costumes, and the very medieval looking archers.  The procession weaves its way through Lucca, stopping to perform in some of the piazzas, eventually making their way to the area behind the Cathedral of San Martino where this year’s competition took place.

September’s most important event, The Luminaria of Santa Croce, takes place every year on the evening of September 13th.   The luminaria is in honor of Lucca’s most important ancient artifact, the wooden crucifix known as the Volto Santo (Holy Face). 

The legend of the Volto Santo is this: it was crafted by Nicodemus who fell asleep before carving the face.  When he awoke, he found that the face had been miraculously completed. The legend continues with a journey across the sea to the coast of Italy and then a trip by oxcart to Lucca more than 1000 years ago.  Both journeys are considered miracles as, according to the legend, the ship and the oxcart where unmanned and divinely guided to Lucca. The crucifix became a stop on the pilgrim’s route to Rome. It remains a venerated religious object to this day, drawing modern day pilgrims to Lucca. 

The crucifix usually rests in a small chapel within the Cathedral of San Martino where the figure of Christ is dressed in a gold vestments during the festival. This year was a bit different as the crucifix is undergoing restoration.  It has been moved from its small chapel to an area inside the cathedral where it is possible to watch the restoration in progress.   

During the luminaria procession religious and civic groups move through the candlelit streets of Lucca.  The Volto Santo is represented by a cloth image held aloft. Each year there is a large cross made of flowers. Participants hold candles and prayers are chanted along the route. It is a beautiful and moving event with both religious and cultural meaning.

Settembre Lucchese came to a close this year with the Festival of San Michele (St. Michael the Archangel).  A special mass was held in the Basilica of San Michele, one of Lucca’s historic churches.  A concert, on the evening of September 23rd, filled the church with music by the Polifonica Lucchese and the Boccherini Orchestra. The fullness of the music, along with beautiful voices in the setting of a historic church, combined to create a very special evening.

 September is an ideal time to visit Lucca. It is not too early to begin planning for a September 2024 visit !

By the third week of September the temperatures are cool enough for a late morning walk along Lucca’s shady walls.

Mid-August in Lucca

Last week, on the 15th, the Italian mid-August holiday of Ferragosto was celebrated. Just a few days before that, I arrived back in Lucca after a long visit to the USA. With all the angst that accompanies international travel these days, I must say I am feeling quite fortunate. Not only am I back in Italy, but all my flights were on time and problem free. My luggage even arrived in Florence at the same time as I did. These days that feels like a minor miracle.

The mid-week flower market in Piazza San Michele, Lucca

The all important receipt showing that my permesso renewal is in progress. I definitely don’t want to lose this !

In another stroke of luck, I was able to turn in my “permesso kit” - the big stack of documents required to renew my permit to stay legally in Italy - without any of the problems that many people have recently experienced. There has been a major backup in the Italian Immigration pipeline this summer. Some people applying for renewals were given appointments at the Questura (the next step in the permesso process) many months into the future, long after their current permesso expires. Worse, some were told no appointments were available at all and they would receive a text or a letter when one became available. Yikes - talk about stressful. While this delay doesn’t preclude staying in Italy during the waiting period, it does make it nearly impossible to travel to, or through, any other Schengen country while waiting for the new permesso di soggiorno card to arrive. Somehow, luck was on my side and I walked out of the post office last Monday with an appointment just 5 1/2 weeks later. I have to assume that my luck coincided with the fact that the immigration backlog is now beginning to clear.

I am happy to be back in Lucca. The heat is a bit overwhelming but I’ve been able to walk through town in the early mornings or early evenings, keeping to the shady side streets. And now that I’ve unpacked and turned in the all important permesso paperwork I am headed off for a real vacation at one of my favorite spots - Lago di Como (Lake Como). I’m leaving my computer at home, so there will be no blog post next Monday.

I’ll put some photos from Lake Como on the Two Parts Italy Facebook page over the next 10 days, otherwise look for me to be back on Monday September 4th with a new post and lots of photos from my time at the lake! In the meantime, enjoy these photos from my first days back in Lucca.

August, Relaxation, and Bicycles

Summer is prime time for all ages to bike along Lucca’s walls

It’s hard for me to believe that another August has rolled around. Where did June and July go? Like many, no matter where we find ourselves this month, I am a bit tired of the heat. Isn’t there a summer equivalent of Ground Hog’s Day to tell us how many more weeks of hot weather lie ahead?

In Italy, this is the month for holidays at the seaside, doing crossword puzzles on a lounge chair, celebrating Ferragosto with friends in mid-August, and taking time to slow down and relax. This week, as I prepare to return to Italy from my summer visit in the US, I am embracing the Italian attitude toward August and taking a bit of break. And while I haven’t even caught a glimpse of the Italian seaside this summer, I am looking forward to spending some time later this month at an Italian lake. Fingers crossed there will be some cool lake breezes!

Instead of writing for this week’s blog post, I have been looking through some old photos. In doing so, I realized just how many times a stray person walks into the perfect shot I had lined up, a car messes up a photo of an ancient building, or a big ugly trash can ruins the photographic potential of a little alley.

This fading fresco (since restored) is even more interesting with the blue bicycle.

The one thing that shows up in a photo and always seems to make a scene even more interesting and classically Italian is a bicycle. Lucca is full of them and they often show up in my photos.

A bike may be parked in front of an ancient vista, chained to a window grate, peeking out from behind a gate, or cruising along the wall that circles the historic center of Lucca. Sometimes the bike is just a serendipitous part of the photo and sometimes it is the main focus.

Bikes can be handy when visiting the flower markets.

It’s not unusual to see a group of bicycle racers flying around the walls or a couple of Lucca’s local police.

Some bikes are workhorses, moving goods - or children - around town. Some even deliver gelato!

Bicycles really are an integral part of life in Lucca. I can’t seem to stop taking photos of them! And here’s one that offers a glimpse of fall.