Planes, Trains, and Epiphanies

It took me 3 planes, 3 trains, 2 airport shuttles, and an overnight in Rome to bring me from New Mexico back to Lucca a few days ago.  This was a considerably more complicated itinerary than my usual return to Italy. The why of it will be a familiar story to anyone who has experienced a long delay in the process of renewing their permesso (the permit for a long term stay in Italy).

If only the Befana delivered long delayed permessi

 My current permesso, which I have renewed annually for the last 6 years without difficulty, has been expired now since the end of August, caught up in bureaucratic delays.  Without a valid permesso, and possessing only the receipt as proof that I am waiting for it to arrive, I am OK legally to be in Italy. But boy is travel complicated! Without it, travel is permitted only directly between Italy and one’s home country. No stopping in any other Schengen zone country allowed.  Not even an airport layover to change planes is permitted.  That meant that my usual path into Italy – the US through Germany and onto Florence was not possible and I would need to fly from Albuquerque, where I was visiting my family over the holidays, to a US city with a direct flight into Italy. 

So, my return from New Mexico involved 3 legs – Albuquerque to Denver, Denver to Washington DC, and DC overnight to Rome.  Getting from the Rome airport to Lucca required a short train ride on the Leonardo Express into the Roma Termini train station, followed by a fast train to Florence, and then a slower local train from Florence to Lucca. This seemed a bit much to do all at once, so I broke the trip up with an overnight near the Rome airport.  So, 2 days of travel. 4 airports. 3 planes. 3 trains. 2 airport hotel shuttles. 1 hotel. Whew!  Luckily all went smoothly and I am now happily back in cold, rainy beautiful Lucca.

The stage is set for La Befana’s arrival in Lucca later today.

I have arrived just in time for the final event of the Christmas season here in Italy – the celebration of Epiphany.  Epiphany, or Three Kings Day, is the 12th day of Christmas.  It marks the day when the Magi, following the Christmas star, arrived in Bethlehem with their gifts of gold, frankincense, and myrrh.   But, they arrived without one important person – the Befana. 

The Befana is an old woman, portrayed as a crone or a witch.  The story goes that the three wise men stopped her to ask for directions on their way to Bethlehem.  She directed them along, but declined to accompany them for she had much housework to do.  Later, she tried to follow them but got lost.  Ever after she has wandered around, on her broomstick, leaving goodies in the stockings of good children on the eve of Epiphany. 

This Befana roamed the streets, along with a chorus and musicians, in Lucca on the evening before Epiphany.

In Italy, Epiphany is marked by re-creations of the Magi arriving in Bethlehem and by festivities related to the Befana. There are Befanas wandering the villages, Befana themed cakes, songs, dolls, and images.  

In Lucca, on the eve of Epiphany, a troupe of musicians and singers gathered to sing about the Befana (video on Instagram and Facebook). The Befana herself accompanied them, delighting children with her basket of sweets. The legend of La Befana is an old tradition that remains an important part of the Christmas season here.

 In Lucca, an annual event marks the arrival of the Befana in the Piazza San Francesco.  She arrives from a rooftop in the piazza (with help from the local fire department).

Each year her arrival is just a little bit different (photos below are from 2 previous years). Later today she will arrive and rumor has it she will come in Babbo Natale’s sleigh (I will be on hand to watch, look for some photos on Instagram and Facebook late today).  

The little ones will gather around as she tosses candies to the crowd on her way down from the roof top.  And they’ll wait to receive stockings filled with candies or other goodies. 

 La Befana - what a fun way to bring the holiday season to a close.

 As for the other meaning of epiphany – a sudden “ah ha” moment – I had one when I realized that the last two quarter century years have marked major turning points in my life.  1975 (the first quarter century year of my life) was the beginning of my “adult ” phase marked by graduation from college, my first professional job, a marriage. 25 years later, 2000 brought a big career change, the launching of my youngest child, and being suddenly single.  Now, 2025 is here, possibly my last quarter century year unless I live to be 97 in 2050. I plan to make the most of it!  I am hoping for joy in small things, some great travel, gentle opportunities for growth, pleasant surprises, and – finally – the arrival of my long term Italian permesso! 

Steampunk, Italian Style

Steampunk is a type of science fiction that transports us not to the future but back to the past.  Back to an era of Victorian style combined with early industrial era mechanical devices.  

It’s almost as if a person in the 18th century was looking 100 years into the future and imagining what the world would be like.  Machines powered by steam, dark magic, devices made of bronze, time travelers, flying machines, good guys and evil. 

Steampunk fashion reflects this in its elaborate Victorian style costumes embellished with all sorts of mechanical Industrial Revolution era devices.  Think ladies in dresses with corsets, lace, and full skirts.  Victorian, but with an edgy feel.

Picture men in brocade suits, breeches, leather vests or jackets, top hats, and boots.  Men and women both sport goggles - they seem to be hallmarks of Steampunk style

 And it’s not just the adults - Steampunk kids are beautifully costumed as well.

Now, add in the industrial bits: clocks, gears, pocket watches, moveable wings, mechanical arms, metal face masks, fancy canes and weapons.   

One of my favorite parts of Lucca Comics and Games is the Steampunk Italia group which has a big presence throughout the event.  This year, there were 3 separate Steampunk gathering days.  All took place in Piazza San Michele and were followed by a parade through the center of Lucca.    Many of the participants wore different costumes on different days – some days black, other days white, one day even an a Puccini opera theme.

The costumes were elaborate, very individual, and nothing short of amazing. I can’t even guess at the number of hours that go into crafting each one. The little details – mechanical arms, elaborate face masks, industrial style devices strapped to backs, arms, embellished hats, fancy canes – just wow!

Steampunk Italia is one of the most photographed groups during the Comics event.  It’s easy to see why!

The 2025 Edition of Lucca Comics and Games will take place from Oct 30 to November 3rd. It’s not too soon to make plans to attend. 

Lucca Comics and Games 2024

I must admit that I have a bit of a “bah humbug” attitude about the huge Comic Con held each fall in Lucca. I think this is mostly due to not liking big crowds.  And Lucca is definitely crowded during Comics. Just imagine 80,000 people flowing into this small walled city each day of the 5 day event!   The streets are packed and going about normal business is pretty much impossible for those who live here.   

To escape the madness that is Comics, I usually plan an out of the city escape.  Last year, Florence.  The year before, Pontremoli. The year before that, PIenza. 

My one and only experience with Comics was in 2019, my first year living in Lucca.  But this year, I found myself in Lucca for the big event.

Perhaps my general feelings are better expressed in Italian - after all, doesn’t everything sound better in Italian?   So I will simply say that my usual attitude is Bah, che sciocchezza! (Oh, what nonsense). And yet, circumstances having conspired to keep me in Lucca this year, I decided to get out for a bit each day and experience Comics.  I found the “nonsense” to be a lot of fun!

 Even though the crowds were a bit overwhelming, I found several things to enjoy about Comics. Top of my list were the costumes.  For 5 days the streets of Lucca were filled with an amazing assortment of characters – superheroes, cartoon characters, pirates, medieval maidens, clowns, historical figures (both Dante and Jesus roamed the streets), monsters, sprites, and animals. 

 Another thing to appreciate were the children.  Comics is a family affair and a safe space to bring the kids.  The evening of Halloween was especially enjoyable due to all the costumed little ones roaming about. What’s more adorable then costumed kids, happy and smiling?

Even pets became part of the action!

The crowds, while large, were also very well behaved.  Costumed participants gladly posed for photos, there were a lot of oohs and aahs at the remarkable get ups, and everyone just seemed to want to have a good time.  Another plus - no worries about bad behavior and no safety concerns despite the huge number of people.

 A lot of the activity related to gaming, comic books, and movies took place in large tents erected throughout Lucca.  These were mostly ticketed events with lines to enter.  Definitely not my thing, but clearly a big draw to participants in the Comics and Games event.

 The pictures posted here are from the first 2 ½ days of the event.  More photos and can found on the Two Parts Italy Facebook page and IG.

Photos from the last couple of days to come next week.

Street Theater on a Saturday Night in Lucca

Some of this year's special guests at Lucca Film Festival 2024

The busy month of September came to a close with Lucca’s annual Film Festival.  This year marked the 20th anniversary of the event which screens feature and short films and awards prizes in each category. Genres include everything from horror to war to musicals and westerns.

Lucca’s event doesn’t rival the glamour or importance of the film festivals in Cannes or Venice.  There were no red-carpet gowns or tuxedos.  No paparazzi. There were several honorees, Italian premiers of films, cinema related conferences and exhibitions.  This year there was also a fun Saturday evening of amateur theater, dance, and music in the streets and piazzas throughout Lucca. Many bars and restaurants decorated for the event and their employees wore film related costumes.

The Screwdriver Bar turned into a Willy Wonka's chocolate factory.  La Fabbrica di Cioccolato in Italian.

The mild evening was perfect for wandering through Lucca and catching a few of the short performances.   Some were related to well known films, both English language and Italian ones. Piazza San Salvatore was the setting for the Wizard of Oz. Who knew that Dorothy, the Wizard, the Lion, the TinMan, and the Scarecrow all were fluent in Italian?

 Aladdin made an appearance in Piazza Anfiteatro. He even brought some belly dancers.

Can you guess what film these actors represented? Hint - just outside the photo was a grand piano.

Mozart, and not Puccini, was the opera composer on this night in Lucca.

Italian Films were represented too, including the classic comedy Amci Miei. These amateur performers really brought the spirit of this comedy to life.

Other performances seemed to be just for fun.  From roller skaters in Piazza San Frediano to a Macarena flash mob in Piazza San Michele (video on the Two Parts Italy Facebook page) it was the kind of simple local fun that is so much a part of Lucca. 

 And now … on to fall.

Bentornato Giugno (Welcome Back June)

Is there a better place to people watch on a June morning than a piazza in Tuscany?

The month of June has arrived, bringing ideal weather to Lucca. Blue skies are dotted with wispy clouds, the temperature is unusually mild, and there is just a hint of breeze.   An occasional rain helps keep things cool. Perfetto!

 Along with the lovely weather, the beginning of June also brings the start of the busy summer season.  The piazze (that’s plural for piazza, the squares that make Italian cities so enjoyable in summer) are filled with big umbrellas, outdoor tables, bustling waiters, lively visitors and locals, and street musicians.   This morning, as I sipped a cappuccino in Piazza San Michele,  the gentle, just-right-volume sound of Beatles music drifted in from under the nearby loggia.  Mornings like this feel cinematic, with me starring in my very own set-in-Italy film, complete with soundtrack.  

Piazza del Giglio, Lucca

 Another piazza, Piazza del Giglio, hosted a ceramic market last weekend.  The booths were filled with all types of ceramic goods.   Many featured items that were both beautiful and well suited to daily use – coffee and tea cups, bowls, pitchers, oil carafes, teapots.  The designs and colors were eye-catching.

The booth that I found most enchanting was full of ceramic buttons, earrings, and small ornaments.  The buttons were all sizes, from tiny to extra-large, and decorated with hand painted designs.  It was impossible to look at them and not smile.  There were flowers, hearts, birds, houses and fish made into bottoni (buttons) and orecchini (earrings). 

Ceramic art pieces and jewelry were also a feature of the market.  From whimsical dogs and cats to pretty pins and earrings to stunning sculptural pieces there was something to please everyone.

The first weekend end of June also saw the start of the Lucca Summer Festival (LSF 24). 

The season-long music festival is the big event of summer, drawing large crowds and big acts to town.  A huge stage is constructed on the green space just outside the walls. This is there where the largest concerts will take place. 

Booths with box seats are placed along the walls high above the stage.   Eric Clapton, on June 2nd, was the first concert on the big stage.  Fortunately an afternoon thunderstorm ended in time so that it did not impact the concert.

Ed Sheeran will follow with two concerts next week.   

People without tickets often catch the music from the street just inside the walls, nearest to the stage. Years ago I heard the Rolling Stones from that spot, along with about 1,000 other ticket-less persons.

 Smaller concerts will take place in Piazza Napoleone.  A few lucky persons will be able to catch those concerts from their terraces a short distance from the piazza. 

The list of performers is varied with something to appeal to everyone.   All this and it is just the first weekend of June!  It is going to be a busy summer in Lucca.

Ceramic flowers - no watering required!