A cafe just off Piazza San Michele, Lucca

Even a Wanderer Sometimes Needs a Map

July 02, 2018 by Joanne Bartram in Italy, Lucca, Italy travel, Italian art architecture, History

One of the joys of having plenty of time in an Italian city is the opportunity to simply wander. Strolling through vibrant neighborhoods and discovering for oneself a fountain, piazza, church, cafe, monument, garden, or historic building is a wonderful experience. Stumbling into an unexpected and intriguing street scene, full of Italian chatter and maybe even some music, is the stuff of Italian daydreams. Getting lost, and finding your way back to a familiar landmark, is part of the fun. But still, even an inveterate wanderer sometimes needs a map.

Maps provide more than just direction; they can give context to a place, delineate neighborhoods, link important landmarks (rivers, bridges, buildings) to discoveries made while wandering, and provide a quick and efficient orientation to a new place. A good map is a treasure.

A View from Lucca's Wall

Portico, Lucca

When visiting larger cities, it's fairly easy to find a detailed map, or a good guidebook. There are so many choices for Rome or Florence that it's easy to find just the right one to suit any need. But in the smaller cities, places less visited by tourists, finding a good map can be a challenge. I certainly found this to be true when I first visited Lucca. The American guidebooks devoted just a quick page or two to Lucca, seemingly an afterthought in a guide otherwise devoted to Florence. If a map was included at all it showed just a few main streets and sites. I found better guidebooks in the local bookstores once I arrived, but the maps available were still small and lacking in detail. I often found myself wandering down a small vicolo (lane) that I simply could not locate on any of the available maps, or looking at a marvelous building, garden, or church with no idea of what I was seeing.

And then, several years ago during an online search before a return visit to Lucca, I stumbled across The Wanderer's Map of Lucca and it's accompanying guidebook, "The Wanderer's Guide to Lucca." Both map and guidebook were written by Brian Lindquist, an American who came here for a visit and, in his own words, "got waylaid." How fortunate for us that he did, because he has written what I consider to be the essential tool for getting to know Lucca. The book is divided into sections that cover the history of Lucca, the churches, the palazzi, the families who played an important role in the history of Lucca, the city streets, and the three generations of city walls.

The book is a fascinating and informative read for those who want to dive deep into the history of Lucca, those who love its Medieval streetscapes and architecture (count me among them), and anyone who has looked at a structure such as the Torre Guinigi (Guinigi Tower) and wondered who the heck those Guinigis were and why they have a tower named after them. Readers interested in art history will also find the information about art, especially the art original to the many churches, invaluable.

But the map - or should I say THE map - is an essential tool for getting to know Lucca. My copy is so creased and worn after accompanying me on many trips that I recently ordered a new one. I now have one to bring with me and one posted on a wall in my house to feed my recollections, mental meanderings, and daydreams!

Why is the Wanderer's Map so important? To begin with, it's big (19 x 26 inches) and easy to read. It shows the important features of Lucca, including the footprint of all 3 walls (Roman, Medieval, and Renaissance) and all the streets, from main drag Via Filungo to the smallest vicolo. The existing churches are shown as are the locations of churches that used to stand but are no more (Lucca used to be called the City of 100 Churches; today there are about 40 within the 2.5-mile circumference of the city walls). Each palazzo is named and its location shown. The map key is clear and easy to use - in the section pictured below, churches are in red, palazzi in purple. The orange lines signify Medieval streetscapes. Flip the map over to find that it is annotated (linked to the numbers shown on the map below), giving information about each church, the walls, and the families whose names still are important in Lucca, as seen in the many local streets and palazzi that bear their names.

The map and guidebook are my companions in Lucca. They provide a wealth of information and inspiration. I love having at my fingertips a resource that tells me that the church of Santa Caterina, one of the recently restored small churches in Lucca, was built in 1575 or that San Giovanni e Reparata church (shown in the photo below) once housed the relics of St. Pantaleone. My visiting friends tell me that I make a good tour guide - if so, it is thanks in large part to all that I have learned from the Wanderer's Map and Wanderer's Guide to Lucca.

Piazza Antelminelli, Lucca with a view of the back of the church of San Giovanni e Reparata

Both map and guidebook are available from Lindquist Historical Guides, Inc. 119 Midland Street Bridgeport, Conn. 06605 or oline from www.lindquistguides.com. The book with a copy of the map is available for $27.95 (includes shipping); map alone for $9.95. Note that they only ship to addresses within the United States. Book without map is also available on Amazon.

Grazie mille to Brian Lindquist for kindly giving permission to include photos of the Wanderer's Map in this post. Post by JMB

The Fortezza di Montecarlo (also known as the Rocca del Cerruglio) in Tuscany.

La Fortezza (The Fortress)

June 25, 2018 by Joanne Bartram in Tuscany, History, Italy travel, Montecarlo, Italy, Italian culture, Lucca

In Medieval times, long before it became a nation, Italy was made up of independent city-states and kingdoms that were often at war with each other. In Tuscany, the cities of Florence, Pisa, and Lucca engaged in ongoing battles for control of the region. Traces of this historic rivalry still exist - for example, in Lucca's annual celebration of its liberation from Pisa (shown in photos below), an event that occurred in the mid-1300s. And don't even mention the intercity soccer rivalries!

During the 14th century the armies of Lucca, needing a strategic vantage point on higher ground, constructed a fortezza (fortress) on the Cerruglio hill in the countryside between Lucca and Valdinievole. This fortress, with its strategic position and high tower, allowed the Lucchese to have advance warning of an enemy approaching from the direction of Florence and also to send signals back to Lucca. In the 15th century, the Florentines (then in control of the region) expanded the fortress to its current size and configuration.

The fortezza with original construction on the left and more recent addition to the right of the two central towers (note the change in materials from stone to brick).

Original 14th century "door within a door"

Today, the fortezza remains an imposing structure, sitting above the small town of Montecarlo, about a 30-minute drive from Lucca. The original portion of the fortress, built in the 14th century, includes a rounded tower (the mastio, far left in the aerial photo above), two square towers, and a central courtyard all connected by exterior walls in a roughly triangular shape.

The entrance, in one of the square towers, is through an ancient wooden door with a "door within a door" design that prevented armed intruders from entering (the smaller door could be opened but was too small to permit the weapons carried by a soldier to pass through). Amazingly, this massive door is original to the fortress.

The current family home, once the quarters of the military person in charge of the fortress, also lies in this section, as does a large outdoor kitchen and an old cistern. In the central courtyard wall another door leads out of the fortress and onto beautiful views of the valley below.

The more recent construction (15th century) is in brick rather than stone and includes a long room with beamed ceilings and a fireplace at what is now the front of the property, and two smaller towers. Its walls enclose a formal Italian garden, which lies between the newer and older portions of the fortezza.

The Italian garden lies between the oldest and newer portions of the fortezza .

Eventually, the wars between the city-states ended and the fortezza was sold to a private owner. Today it remains a private property, in the family of the current owner since 1905. Imagine having a Medieval fortress as your family home! What must it be like to live day-to-day amid such history? Luckily it is possible to experience the fortezza as the current owners, who are dedicated to restoration and upkeep of this unique piece of history, occasionally open it to the public for tours and private events. Even better, I recently had the chance to tour the property with a small group of students and teachers from Lucca Italian School. One of the current owners, Signor Valter Menchini, was a delightful tour guide and shared his vast knowledge of the fortezza’s construction and history. He so clearly loves his home, and this region’s history, that he made it all come alive with his descriptions of events in the fortress and his interesting anecdotes, such as the story of the two elderly sisters who once lived here and for whom the Torre delle Gobbine (Tower of the Hunchbacks) is named.

Looking out from the entry to the Torre delle Gobbine toward one of the towers in the oldest part of the fortezza.

Hearing that story, as we stood at the top of the tower, overlooking the valley below, was awe inspiring. We also climbed up into the mastio and the second tower at the front of the fortezza, which was accessed by a narrow, winding stone staircase and opened onto views of the town, the valley beyond, and several distant towns. Signor Menchini suggested that this might be the perfect spot for an aperitivo. What a good idea - if I lived here I would spend every summer evening doing just that.

The village of Montecarlo viewed from a window in the fortezza.

The town of Montecarlo, which sits just below the fortezza, is small and very charming. Sections of the old city walls remain and there are shops, restaurants, and wine bars to enjoy in addition to wonderful views. Montecarlo is a stop on the Strada del Vino delle Colline Lucchesi e di Montecarlo (the Wine Road of the Lucchese Hills and Montecarlo). Surrounded by vineyards, Montecarlo is known for its very nice white and red wines, which are often served in the restaurants of the surrounding towns, including Lucca. When in doubt as to what wine to order, I always ask for "un bicchiere di vino bianco di Montecarlo" (a glass of Montecarlo white) and I'm never disappointed.

When I'm in Italy, I often declare "what a perfect day". My visit to the fortezza certainly qualified for that description. Grazie to Lucca Italian School for arranging this visit and to the Pardocchi - Menchini family for opening their family property to us ! - post by JMB

Our host and tour guide, Signor Menchini (front left) and my group from Lucca Italian School.

Fattoria di Fubbiano - A Winery with Tuscan Views

June 11, 2018 by Joanne Bartram in Tuscany, Lucca, Italy travel, Walking, Italy, Travel, Wine, Cooking

If you close your eyes and picture the perfect Tuscan landscape, what comes to mind will likely look a lot like the area surrounding the Fattoria di Fubbiano. If your picture includes rolling hills, tall cedars, ancient farmsteads, vineyards, olive groves, and a small hill town in the distance, then you have it just right.

The direct translation of the Italian word fattoria is farm - but direct translations don't always capture the essence of a word. A fattoria can be anyplace involved in agriculture - from the classic farm with rows of vegetables and barnyard animals to a terraced hillside where grapes and olives are grown. The Fattoria di Fubbiano is the latter - 130 some acres of vineyards and olive groves tucked into the hills 15 kilometers (9 miles) east of Lucca just below the hilltop town of San Gennaro.

A fattoria has existed in this spot for a long time - the property dates to the late 1600s. Local tax records list an even earlier date for the first cultivation of vines and olive trees here. Ownership of the fattoria has changed hands many times, with the current owners purchasing the antique property in 2002. They have since restored the fattoria buildings and original villa, converted some buildings into guest quarters and tended the gardens and view terraces.

The biggest project was the construction of a new and very modern cantina. This is where the harvested grapes arrive and where the Fubbiano wines are produced and bottled. The original cantina, a beautiful building with arching brick ceilings, now serves as an events space.

Several wines are produced at Fattoria di Fubbiano, including three reds, two whites, and a Vin Santo. All are DOC-certified (which assures place of origin as being from the Lucchese hills, as well as variety of grape and quality). Also produced is a rosé (labeled Schiller, the name of the family that owns the fattoria) and a super Tuscan (labeled I Pampini and a personal favorite). Along with these excellent wines, the grapes are used to produce grappa and a wine vinegar. The wines are well respected locally and internationally. Thirty percent of the produced wines are exported to the United States.

My visit to the Fattoria di Fubbiano was to tour the grounds and winery and then to participate in a cooking class in the old cantina building. The winery tour was informative and interesting (even if it was hard not to be distracted by the amazing views of the surrounding vineyards and hillsides). The cooking class, offered as an afternoon cultural excursion by Lucca Italian School, was a delight. Together we prepared an appetizer of fried zucchini flowers with a filling of ricotta, basil, and pecorino cheese, a handmade-filled pasta (Tordelli Lucchese), a fragrant roasted pork, and a classic local dessert (Zuppa Lucchese).

After the meal prep was complete, our group of about 20 shared an aperitivo of Fubbiano wines and the crisp, melt-in-your-mouth zucchini flowers out on a wisteria-covered terrace overlooking a stunning Tuscan landscape. Sitting on that terrace in the soft light of a spring evening, sipping wine, and talking to the interesting people who come to Lucca to study Italian, was a special kind of wonderful.

Eventually we went back inside to eat the meal we had prepared. We dressed our salads with olive oil and vinegar from the fattoria, and had some of the white and red Fubbiano wines to accompany our dinner. Everyone agreed that all of the work to prepare the meal was well worth the effort, producing a delicious cena (dinner). Cooking classes are always a highlight of my time in Lucca and when combined with the setting of this characteristic Tuscan fattoria, they are especially wonderful. -post by JMB

A cooking class in the old cantina, Fattoria di Fubbiano

Contact information:

Fattoria di Fubbiano 55010 San Gennaro, Lucca, Italy. Website: Fattoria di Fubbiano.it

Lucca Italian School. Via dei Bacchettoni, 25 55100 Lucca, Italy Website: luccaitalianschool.com

A Lunch in Arezzo

June 04, 2018 by Joanne Bartram in Tuscany, Italy travel, Italy, Italian art architecture, Arezzo, Italian restaurants, Restaurants Italy

If you’ve read this blog for a while you likely know that there are two authors - Judy (the tall blonde one) and Joanne (me, the short brunette one). We have a lot in common, especially our love of travel in general and Italy in particular. But we also have differences, including very different travel schedules. As an example, Judy tends to take more frequent, shorter trips while I go for fewer but longer trips. This means that we don't often get to travel together, but we do try to find a way to meet up in Italy every year, which is always fun.

In spring of this year we had overlapping trips to Italy and were able to spend a week in Lucca at the same time. During this time, Judy proposed renting a car and taking a day trip. Here is another of our differences - I never drive in Italy while Judy, well …. Judy was born to drive on Italian roads. Her skill is impressive; she can drive a standard transmission at Italian speeds and hold her own with all those Italian lane changes. I'm in awe! I like to read maps and navigate so we make a good team.

One morning in early May we rented a car (tip: do not forget your passport when you go the car rental agency) and set off for the town of Arezzo, about an hour and 40 minutes southeast of Lucca. Because this day trip was fairly spontaneous, we’d done only minimal research about Arezzo and hadn’t researched restaurants at all, even though lunch was definitely in our plans. In fact, we were essentially driving to Arezzo for a long lunch and a “get to you know” look around town.

Sometimes you get lucky despite a lack of planning and that’s what happened in Arezzo. As we walked toward the historic center we came down some stairs and straight into a loggia built in 1572 by Vasari (the same architect who built the Vasari Corridor and the loggia of the Palazzo degli Uffizi in Florence).

It turns out that Vasari was a hometown boy, born in Arezzo in 1511, and he graced the city of his birth with some of his stunning architecture. Lucky for us!

Because we'd left Lucca a little later than planned (remember what I said about not forgetting your passport when you rent a car), we arrived hungry and ready for lunch. I was immediately seduced by the beautiful loggia as well as by the sight of a woman standing under it making homemade pasta. She worked on a marble surface, rolling the dough by hand, topping it with generous dabs of ricotta and borragine (borage). She then folded the pasta dough, sealed the edges, and cut it by hand into half-moon shapes (called agnolotti). The filled agnolotti were perfectly symmetric (a pasta-making skill that escapes me). On top of all this, there was a delicious scent coming from the restaurant. We went no further, settling into a table at the beautiful Logge Vasari Restaurant.

The tables were nestled beneath the arched ceiling and graceful columns of the long loggia. The soft murmur of Italian surrounded us, and music played in the distance. Our table faced outward toward Piazza Grande, the central square of Arezzo, ringed with interesting buildings and without the crowds of visitors found in more "touristy" cities. The setting was perfect for a leisurely lunch.

And the food did not disappoint. A basket of warm, house-made breads with imported French Insigny butter (how can butter taste this good?) began the meal, quickly followed by an appetizer (a gift from the chef) of spinach timbale.

As a starter, we shared a plate of melon with prosciutto and mozzarella. The sweet melon was a perfect partner for the salty prosciutto and the creamy cheese. The presentation was artful!

Almost (but not quite) too pretty to eat.

My main course - those ricotta and borage agnolotti topped with a light truffle butter and zucchini flowers - was delicate, fragrant, and delicious. Judy's dish of Parmesan ravioli with porcini was equally wonderful.

Agnolotti

Parmesan Ravioli

A post-meal caffe macchiato arrived with a plate of small cookies. Perfetto! post by JMB

This marble piece is titled Plenitud. It is on display in Piazza San Michele with the basilica rising up behind it.

Modern Sculpture in a Medieval Tuscan Town

May 28, 2018 by Judy Giannnettino in Italian art architecture, Tuscany, Italy, Lucca

The marble quarried in the Italian town of Carrara has inspired artists for centuries and been used to create some of the most well-known buildings and sculptures in Italy. Michelangelo’s David in Florence and the Pantheon in Rome are just two examples. More recent work by the Costa Rican artist Jorge Jiménez Deredia, who also studied and sculpted near Carrara, is on display around Lucca this summer. This type of temporary art exhibit is common here, gracing the squares and areas along the old city walls. The effect is that Lucca is an evolving art gallery of pieces that can be viewed, and touched, simply by wandering through the town. There is something unique and special about art in public squares, accessible to all, without the boundaries of museum walls.

This piece, on display in the remains of a Roman amphitheater, is from the series Genesis.

The Deredia exhibit, with its rounded and spherical figures in black or white, juxtaposed against buildings constructed six or seven centuries earlier, makes for a most interesting walk through town.

Deredia was born in Costa Rica in 1954. He moved to Italy 22 years later and started working in marble and bronze. His work has been displayed around the world and he has created permanent pieces for public spaces in Europe, Asia, the United States and Latin America during his career. He was honored by the Academy of Design Arts in Florence with the Academic Correspondant of the Class of Sculpture award - the same award given to Michelangelo, Titian, and Tintoretto.

In Lucca, three of his massive sculptures are displayed prominently in Piazza San Michele against the backdrop of San Michele in Foro, the basilica built over the ancient Roman Forum. Others are placed in piazzas around town and at Porta San Pietro. Deredia’s work will be in Lucca until September 10 of this year. Don’t miss it if you’re in Tuscany! It's a chance to see this amazing artist's work in what is essentially an open-air museum.

-post by JG