Carnevale!

Burlamacco, the offical symbol of Carnevale since 1931. He is based on several figures from the Comedia dell’Arte and his red and white colors reflect the beach umbrellas of Viareggio.

In Italy, you just about have time to catch your breath after the festivities of the new year and Epiphany when you begin to see signs that Carnevale - the raucous month-long celebration that precedes the beginning of Lent - is upon you.

The dates vary depending on when Lent begins. This year March 6 is the first day of Lent, so the Carnevale celebrations occur from late February to March 5 (Fat Tuesday).

And what celebrations they are! Colorful, noisy, fun - Carnevale is the ultimate late winter party.

In Italy, the largest and most famous Carnevale celebrations are in Venice and Viareggio, though many other towns also have impressive Carnevale events.

Each city’s celebration has a unique character. In Viareggio, the parade floats are known for political and social themes, making great use of satire and allegory to express current issues and, perhaps, rattle a few cages.

The return of fascism

Recognize any of these Italian politicans?

The master drone

The Carnevale parade in Viareggio occurs on five days - one day each weekend for the four weeks preceding Lent and the final parade on Fat Tuesday. Viareggio is not far from Lucca (about 25 minutes by car and 40 by bus) so it was the perfect place to experience my first Carnevale celebration. And the fact that the parade route covers a 1.25-mile stretch along Viareggio’s famous seaside promenade was an added bonus.

The Siren - with her false mask - luring us all into perilous waters.

One of the largest floats - beautiful against a blue sky

The parade kicked off with an announcement of “Buon Carnevale,” a brass band complete with baton twirlers, and lots of excitement from the crowd.

What followed was a feast for the eyes - huge, colorful, animated paper mache creations that moved along the parade circuit accompanied by performers and often smoke, glitter, pyrotechnics, and music.

There was colorful confetti - lots of confetti - sold by the bagful to spectators who flung it all about. Not to worry - in the name of environmental awareness, this was a plastic-free event and all the confetti recyclable paper.

The floats, chosen based on sketches submitted in advance, expressed current parade themes (this year celebrated women) and relevant social issues. Below are three of the sketches that were chosen and became floats in this year’s parade. You can see the the Italians find the current U.S. president to be a good subject for politically themed entries.

Mind Pollution

Medusa

Moon Dream

This year’s entries addressed themes of bullying, environmental pollution, and migration, as well as Italian and American politics.

High Tide (Ocean Pollution)

A Raft of Migrants

The Pack (anti-bullying message)

Other floats and performers represented the classical Carnevale theme of clowns and comedia dell’arte figures. In addition to the large floats, which take a small army of handlers to animate, there are many smaller “one-man” creations that join the parade.

Parade spectators are part of the show as many dress in colorful wigs, as clowns, or in other costumes. The celebration is family friendly and some of the best costumes are worn by the children or entire families. Spectators can sit in grandstands to watch the parade but many simply stand along the parade route and are free to join in the procession. The atmosphere is vivacious and noisy and crowded but also very safe. I loved every minute.

Having experienced my first Carnevale in Viareggio, I’m thinking that Venice might be just the spot for Carnevale 2020. Anyone want to join me? -post by JMB

Winter in Lucca

The big snow of 2018 created a magical winter tableau. We’re still waiting for snow this year. Photo by David Priest, used with permission.

Winter in Lucca – short days, chilly to downright cold temperatures, bare tree branches and vines, rain (sometimes LOTS of rain), and occasional snow. The weeks after the end of the holiday season, between Epiphany in early January and the beginning of Carnevale in late February / early March are quiet. This is time to catch one’s breath and rest after the hectic holidays. The city of Lucca is resting too. There are fewer tourists in general and a notable absence of larger tour groups wandering through the streets.

Spring, with a promise of sunny days and the emergence of green leaves and flowers, feels a long way off. The big summer music festival is months away, though the advertising has many people here excited with anticipation – Elton John in June, Sting in July – something to look forward to on long winter evenings.

Bare wisteria vines await the blooms of spring

While it is definitely “off season” here in Lucca, there is still a lot going on, which makes winter a pleasurable time of year. The cold temperatures are invigorating (so different than the milder winters of New Mexico). I now have a collection of hats and scarves and happily venture out even when the temperatures are low or it is dark outside. The cafes have mostly pulled their tables indoors but they remain open and people still meet for the evening aperitivo hour – though the bright orange of a summer spritz has mostly given way to glasses of wine and warm drinks.

Bundled up to shop at the outdoor Saturday market

The local markets continue throughout winter. At the antiques market, shoppers dress warmly to browse furniture, linens, books, tableware, clothing, and assorted collectibles. I’ve done a bit of shopping there this winter – a tablecloth for my terrace awaits warmer weather, a pretty glass vase graces my dining room table, and colorful digestivo glasses make me smile every time I see them.

The weekly household market, just outside the walls in Piazzale Don Baroni, sells everything from shoes to lightbulbs, frying pans to bras. There are also plenty of flowers to buy and food products (including meats, cheeses, honey, fresh fish, nuts, and beautiful oranges and clementines from Sicily).

Lucca’s wall as seen from a window at Lucca Italian School

Lucca is known for its music, which continues even at this time of year. The Associazione Musicale Lucchese has concerts scheduled throughout winter – often in the small theater of the Boccherini Institute. 

There are also performances at the Teatro del Giglio – opera, plays, concerts.

And, of course, Lucca Italian School is still busy with students who have come to study Italian during the quiet season.

In addition to these activities, winter in Lucca is simply beautiful. Picture walks through uncrowded Medieval streets, strolls along the wall on bright winter afternoons, dazzling winter sunsets, and distant views of snow-capped mountains – that is winter in Lucca.  I’m still hoping for a dusting of snow. -post by JMB

A sunny winter day on the walls

Distant snow capped mountains

Winter sunset

A Recommended Hotel in Florence: The Morandi alla Crocetta

What do you look for when you choose a hotel in Italy?

A courtyard at Hotel Morandi alla Crocetta

I look for places that are small, unique to the city I’m visiting, simple yet charming, and reasonably priced. I avoid the big chains and international brands in favor of places that are family-owned and offer local character and personal touches. I find the smaller hotels to be welcoming and friendly with great connections to local culture and wonderful service to guests.

The first time I traveled to Florence, 20-some years ago, I came across a gem of a small hotel called the Morandi alla Crocetta. I’ve stayed there many times since and it never disappoints – in fact, it’s the only place I stay when I’m in Florence. It has the perfect combination of history, charm, location, service, and price.

Wearing the laurel wreath of a graduate of the law school, right next to the hotel

The hotel is at 50 Via Laura in the section of Florence near the Ospedale degli Innocenti, Church of SS. Annunziata, the Academia (home of the David), and the Archeological Museum. It’s an easy walk to all the major points of interest in Florence, about eight minutes to the Duomo. This is a lively (but not noisy) neighborhood, which is also home to the University of Florence School of Law. During my recent visit, I was able to watch the graduation celebrations as law students and their families marked the completion of degrees (laurea in Italian). What fun it was to witness this event!

Many artifacts related to Sister Domenica are displayed in the hotel

The Morandi alla Crocetta is a unique property, originally a convent founded by Sister Domenica del Paradiso (what a name!) in the early 16th century, during the era of the Medici. According to the history provided in the hotel literature, Sister Domenica sided with the Medici family in their conflict with the powerful cleric Savonarola, and so the Medici rulers gave her this land on which to build her convent. The convent was called the Convent of the Cross (cross is crocetta in Italian) as all the nuns had a small red cross on their habits. The convent was later enlarged by a Medici princess and connected by an overpass to her palazzo so she could worship at the convent’s small chapel. With time, and a period of religious suppression, the nuns moved away and the convent ceased to exist.

Today’s hotel Morandi includes the cloister and gardens from the historic convent. It is a small hotel with two floors (ground and first, with an elevator). The convent’s chapel is no longer accessible, but the former entry to the chapel is perhaps the most interesting room in the hotel - complete with 17th century frescoes and illustrations of the life of Sister Domenica. This room is a bit of a splurge, but definitely worth it.

Ceiling Fresco, Chapel Room

Chapel Room

Fresco, Chapel Room

Other rooms range from small (comfortable and economical) singles to large suites, some with private outdoor patios. There are several gracious lounge areas with a variety of books, magazines, and newspapers for browsing.

Single Room

Desk area in single room

Double Room

Since I was staying in one of the small single rooms during my most recent visit, I made good use of the comfortable public areas as a place to read and do some writing.

The hotel provides a full breakfast in an elegant room overlooking a small courtyard garden. Breakfast includes a basket of cornetti (Italian style croissants) and bread with jam, yogurt, fruit, cereal, juice, coffee, and tea. Also available are eggs, bacon, ham, salami, and cheeses. It’s a great place to meet other travelers and compare experiences over morning coffee. In the evening, the breakfast room transforms into a bar.

My most recent stay at the hotel Morandi alla Crocetta (October 2018) was a delight. This is a place that I happily recommend.  I’m already planning a return next summer with my family.       - post by JMB

Contact info: 

Hotel Morandi alla Crocetta

Via Laura 50, Firenze 50121   

phone: +39 055 234 4748

email: welcome@hotelmorandi.it

Volterra

The days between the hubbub of Christmas and the celebrations of the new year are perfect for a low-key day trip into the Tuscan countryside. I’m always a bit lazy during this time of year, so a drive, a walk around a pretty town, and a good lunch were all that was on the agenda, saving museums and other more in-depth explorations for a later visit.

One of the entrances into the city of Volterra

Volterra is a place I’ve always wanted to explore but until now had never visited. So, when a couple of friends suggested a day trip, I jumped at the chance. On a crisp and foggy morning a few days after Christmas, we set out from Lucca and headed for Volterra, about an hour and a half away by car. Because Volterra is a little out of the way, without a train station or easy bus connections, it has fewer tourists than some of the other Tuscan hill towns (such as Arezzo or Cortona) and doesn’t seem to get the large tour groups that visit San Gimignano. And on this winter day it was almost free of tourists.

Volterra is a very old city, dating to Etruscan times. It is particularly known for two things - Etruscan artifacts and the creation of objects made of alabaster. We skipped the museum  but did manage to do a little shopping for alabaster.  It was fascinating to watch an artisan at work in her small shop (Gloria Giannelli Alabastri). Her work was gorgeous - delicate small carvings, bowls, vases, light fixtures. She was happy to talk about her work and the process of making alabaster pieces. She demonstrated how she began with raw alabaster and worked it to create objects made either from a solid alabaster block or as a mosaic from slabs of different colors of alabaster. Of course, I bought a small piece!

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All pieces are handmade by the artist

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Raw Alabaster

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I couldn’t resist this little bowl

​The town of Volterra is beautiful, with it’s old castello (castle), town wall and arches, beautiful stone buildings, little alleys, carved doors, and ornate iron windows.  

A small vicolo with steep stairs heading to the castello

The wide gently sloped streets are lined with homes, shops, and restaurants. And at this time of year it was made festive with Christmas lights and decorations all through town. 

Our lunch stop, at Ristorante La Terra di Mezzo, was a treat. We chose several pasta dishes, all delicious. The chocolate soufflé dessert, recommended by our waiter, was fantastic.

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Pappardelle with ham and truffles

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A spicy Arrabbiata alla Calabrese

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A warm chocolate soufflé

After lunch and a bit more wandering  around town, we headed home to Lucca, knowing that we’d have to return soon for more exploration and to visit the Etruscan Museum. I couldn’t have asked for a more perfect late December day in Tuscany!         -post by JMB

Looking out over the valley from a viewpoint in Volterra

An Italian Christmas

Christmas in Italy is enchanting. Cold days and even colder nights bring out shoppers and strollers wrapped in colorful scarves, hats, and, in many cases, fur coats. Here in Lucca the streets and squares are strung with lights and filled with greens. Even the smallest alley glows with Christmas magic.

Shoppers on Chiasso Barletti

Lucca’s Piazza Anfiteatro at night

Shop windows are magical at this time of year, decorated with holiday goodies and winter scenes.

The window of this chocolate shop is one of my favorites.

Christmas trees fill shops and squares. Small trees, decorated with white bows, line the street on which I live. Between the trees and the overhead lights, walking along my Via Mordini is beautiful day or night.

This simple tree sits inside the old mercato alongside a small art show.

Greens are everywhere - wreaths and swags and clusters of mistletoe – they cheer up doorways, fill restaurants, and make a beautiful sight against the stone walls of the buildings in this Medieval city.

There are also Christmas concerts and carolers and, from the shops, mostly American music (an unexpected sound and a surprise to me).  Piazza Napoleone is holiday central with its outdoor Christmas market, ice skating rink, and lighted sculptural tree.  Even the carousel is decked out for Christmas. 

Foods are another important part of the season.

Chocolates, biscotti, nuts, pandoro and panettone all make for interesting shop displays.  

While the traditional panettone is made with dried fruit, this pistacchio version sounds delicious! 

Pretty decorations in the courtyard of a favorite restaurant, Osteria Via San Georgio

There is much to see, taste, smell, hear and experience, and all of it is new to me on this, my first Italian Christmas. As I walked through town the other evening, admiring all the lights and activity, all of my senses were tuned to Christmas. And I was joyful.  -Post by JMB

From both of us at Two Parts Italy, we wish you joy wherever you may be this holiday season.

Buon Natale.  Buone Feste.

Merry Christmas.  Happy Holidays.                                             

A pretty window in Piazza San Salvatore, Lucca