No-Fuss Holiday Entertaining

This is a busy time of year! The days between Thanksgiving and the New Year are filled with activities -shopping, decorating, holiday baking, and dinners just for starters. For me, these weeks have also included a couple of out-of-town visitors, two quick trips out of town, and the birthdays of four friends. It has been a happy whirlwind as every week seemed to include a gathering or a short trip.

With all this activity, entertaining can either be a joy or it can cause stress. And stress is no fun! To keep the holidays fun and avoid entertaining burn-out, opting for a no-fuss approach is the way to go. No-fuss means that most of what is served can be purchased or prepared in advance with a minimum of actual cooking. That way, the effort goes into choosing a good mix of items with a variety of tastes and textures, presenting them in a visually appealing way, pouring something festive to drink and then relaxing with the guests. This is just the approach I used for the small gathering that I recently hosted. My no-fuss choice was to create a festive cheese board for an aperitivo celebration. No cooking required!

Here are some ideas for putting together a tasty cheese board.

Herbed goat cheese - tangy, creamy, spicy and store bought

First, choose a variety of cheeses, even better if they are local specialties. For a light cocktail hour, an ideal combination is one soft cheese and one that is medium or hard. For a more substantial appetizer add a third cheese. Since my gathering was a pre-dinner aperitivo, I kept things light with just two cheeses.

I purchased rounds of a creamy herb-crusted goat cheese (2 varieties, chive and red pepper) at the local grocery. They paired well with a wedge of good quality pecorino fresca from one of Lucca’s specialty cheese shops. A bit of jam or honey alongside the pecorino added a bit of flavor complexity.

The twisted shape gives these bread sticks an added visual boost

Next, some type of bread to go with the cheese. Using a variety of shapes, sizes, and forms makes the presentation more interesting.

Crackers are easier than fresh bread as there is no last minute slicing and the crispness holds up well with just about any cheese. For my board I purchased some pretty bread stick twists and two types of crackers.

These marinated green olives are salty and a bit briny, they complement the cheeses nicely.

Now, add in some salty and stronger flavors. Good olives are perfect. Marinated small tomatoes or cornichons work well too. For a more hearty appetizer tray, some flavorful meats are a good addition. Prosciutto or salami would be typical Italian choices.

Next comes fruit. Grapes always go well with cheese. Added bonus - they look great on the platter! Apples or pears would have been another good choice (but grapes don’t require any slicing and can be put out well ahead of time, making them the perfect no-fuss choice). Dried fruit adds additional flavor, color, and texture. Dried apricots worked especially well with the pecorino.

Last, some sweet flavors. In this case I used candied walnuts, the only thing that actually required me to cook (if melting sugar and tossing in the nuts really counts as cooking). The combination of sweet and crunchy was a good contrast to the salty olives and creamy cheese. A small cup of honey to drizzle over the pecorino added another layer of sweet flavor.

Something bubbly to toast with comes next. Prosecco is ideal for an aperitivo and is the perfect choice for any celebration.

Start with a simple cutting board or platter, add a pedestal dish for height, and begin layering foods until you are happy with the presentation.

Once all the foods are chosen, the next consideration is presentation. This is the fun and creative part; a chance to tap into your inner Martha Stewart!

Cutting boards, platters, and trays can all serve as a base for a cheese board. I don’t have a fancy cheese board, but my IKEA wooden cutting board worked just fine as a base for the grapes and cheeses. For some height variation, a small pedestal plate on, or alongside, the cutting board adds a bit of “oomph” to the presentation. Tall breadsticks standing upright in a glass do the same.

Color and texture are also important. Two colors of grapes, one green and one red, colorful herbs topping the goat cheese, and a combination of creamy and firm cheeses is a good start. A halved pomegranate provided color variation, contrasting texture, and served as a space filler on the cheese board. Plus it was a sparkly seasonal fruit. Additional color and texture came from the dried apricots.

Pomegranates are “jewels” that add sparkle to a cheese board

A variety of plates, bowls, and boards can be positioned alongside the main board to expand the spread. No need for everything to match! And no special tableware is needed, just mix and match whatever you have available (though having some good cheese knives is a big help; I borrowed some from a friend). And a pretty table cloth always helps to set the stage.

Ready to serve !

With everything in place I was able to enjoy my guests with no worry about keeping things warm or fussing over serving. All I had to do was pour the Prosecco (and truth be told, a friend volunteered for that job!).

There you have my strategies for no-fuss holiday entertaining. What tricks do you use for stress-free parties at this time of year?

With New Year’s Eve right around the corner, another no-fuss cheese board just may be in my future.

Happy New Year! Buon Anno !

Buon Natale from Two Parts Italy

Wishing all of you the merriest of holidays, wherever you may be.

Buon Natale !

Firenze at Christmas: Lights, Sparkle, Magic

It is hard not to compare Christmas this year with last year’s holiday in Italy. Hands down, this year wins! In 2020 the holiday came with increased COVID restrictions which prevented travel between cities. That meant no trip to Firenze (Florence) to marvel at the Christmas decorations (a small thing in light of the more serious issues associated with the pandemic, but still, one more small loss). A little bit of sparkle would have been most welcome at the end of last year!

As of mid-December 2021 no such restrictions on travel are in place. Firenze is aglow and welcoming visitors. There are precautions in place, including a requirement to wear masks outdoors in the main piazzas during certain times (I actually witnessed local police enforcing this rule). And while there were definitely crowds when I visited in early December, by Florentine standards they were fairly modest. Best of all, Firenze at Christmas is as magical as ever!

By day there is un sacco (a whole lot) of things to see and do. I started my day in Firenze with a lunchtime stroll through the Mercato di Natale. The market sits in front of the church of Santa Croce and brings a blend of Italian and German holiday celebrations to the city. After a year’s absence, the 2021 market marked a return to tradition. Plus I enjoyed a German flavored lunch from one of the many stalls.

Many hours can be spent along the streets of Firenze peeking into shops filled with Christmas goods, seeing the elaborately decorated shop windows, and enjoying all the greenery that frames the doorways of shops, cafes, and hotels. (Some of my favorites below)

There are many other things to see during the day - the stunning terra cotta nativity in front of the Duomo, the nearby Christmas tree made even more beautiful by the back drop of the marble clad cathedral, happy kids riding the carousel in Piazza della Repubblica. In Firenze, Christmas is everywhere.

Life size terracotta figures make a simple but beautiful nativity scene outside of the Duomo. Note that there is no infant Jesus yet - he arrives Christmas Eve.

For a time out, I recommend a stop at Caffè Gilli for a pot of tea and a little dolce (sweet). Gilli has an old world elegance and provides the perfect setting to sit, catch your breath, and appreciate the Italian Christmas spirit. An added bonus is that the cafe offers a view of the carousel in Piazza della Repubblica and also has one of the best windows in town, full of whimsical Christmas chocolate creations.

As wonderful as the city is by day, it is at night that the magic really happens.

Once the sun goes down the streets sparkle with lights. A walk down Via dei Servi, from Piazza SS Annunziata toward the glowing lantern atop the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore (the Duomo), is a breathtaking sight.

Another not-to-be missed sight is a nighttime view of the ever-changing display on the facade of the Rinascente department store in Piazza della Repubblica.

For intense sparkle, head to the area around the intersection of Via Tornabuoni and Via degli Strozzi and prepare to be amazed.

The lights here are intertwined with gold and silver ornaments. They dazzle and seem to fill the sky. It is impossible to stand here and not smile.

I was in Firenze the night of the tree lighting, which meant there were some special celebrations. Drummers and flag bearers in medieval costume and a brass band attended the ceremony. Afterwards, a train load of Santas arrived and then wandered through town throughout the evening, delighting adults and children alike.

I love Firenze any time of year. But at Christmas, and especially this year, it made the perfect holiday excursion. Grazie Firenze!

A Christmas Market in Pietrasanta

What a busy, Christmas-y week it has been! December 8th, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception and an Italian national holiday, marked the official start of the Christmas season here in Italy. It is the traditional day for cities to hold tree lighting ceremonies and for families to put up decorations, including a presepe (nativity scene) and a Christmas tree. Some towns and shops start a bit earlier, so that by the first week in December there are a lot of holiday events to be found.

This year it seems that everyone is ready to celebrate. Unlike last year, when much of Italy was under pandemic restrictions that kept holiday markets closed and celebrations curtailed, this year the holiday season has arrived in festive fashion. For me, that means gathering with friends (in small, fully vaccinated groups), entering all the beautifully decorated shops in Lucca (with mask in place), and sipping a hot drink at a chilly outdoor cafe in a light filled piazza. It also means being able to visit nearby towns to browse through Christmas markets, marvel at lights and decorations, and appreciate the joy of the season. With that spirit in mind, the past week has been filled with events - a holiday market and lunch in Pietrasanta, an overnight in Firenze (Florence) which is pure magic at this time of year, and several meet-ups with friends. I am filling up on Italian Christmas before I head to New Mexico for some family time and a southwestern holiday. Whew! I may be a bit tired, but I am smiling.

Babbo Natale greets visitors to Pietrasanta

The first stop on my list of Christmas events was Pietrasanta, a delightful small village in the province of Lucca. About an hour by train from my home (30 minutes by car), it is one of my favorite day trips. I have visited Pietrasanta many times, enjoying its artsy atmosphere and beautiful city center (for more on Pietrasanta: https://twopartsitaly.com/blog/2021/5/26/heaven-and-hell-in-pietrasanta) but I had never made a visit during the winter. After reading about the local Christmas market, I decided it was time to go. And so last week I hopped on a train with some friends to spend a Sunday exploring holiday time in Pietrasanta.

One of Pisano’s imaginative creations in Pietrasanta.

There was plenty of holiday spirit to be found! Just outside the arched entryway to the city center, in Piazza Carducci, was a larger-than-life Santa Claus and the first of a series of really interesting pieces of art. The large, colorful pieces struck me as a cross between the metal parts of old erector sets (anyone else old enough to remember those?) and legos. That may sound strange, but it made for some really fun sculptures, several of which fit the Christmas theme including the brightly colored tree pictured here. They were created by the Italian artist name Tano Pisano; the series is called Meccano. It continues with several large pieces in Piazza del Duomo and at the facade of the Church of Sant’Agostino (there are more of his pieces within the church and cloister - all will be on display through February 2022).

The center of Piazza del Duomo, the main square, is where the Christmas tree sits, surrounded by over-sized holiday ornaments and more sculptures by Pisano.

At the far end of the piazza, the market was filled with handcrafted and specialty Christmas items. Each booth had something different to offer - from hats to housewares, lamps to ceramic pieces, ornaments to beautifully turned wooden toys.

And the setting! Browsing through the stalls while enjoying views of nearby bell towers, statues, the old town fortress walls, blue Tuscan skies dotted with soft white clouds was just perfect . A Christmas card worthy scene.

Wandering the streets from Piazza del Duomo through town to Piazza Matteotti took us past art galleries, shops, fanciful windows, wonderful decorations, and an outdoor antiques market.

After a stop for lunch at the small and cozy restaurant Quarantuno (my go to lunch spot in Pietrasanta) it was time for a train back to Lucca. A wonderful day and a great start to the holiday season.

My busy week continued a few days later when I headed to Florence. More on that next week!

All dressed up for the holidays

The Artisans and Shopkeepers of Chiasso Barletti

Little touches like a basket of flowers add to the charm of Chiasso Barletti

Tucked away just a bit off the main drag of Via Fillungo in Lucca lies the small vicolo (alley) of Chiasso Barletti. Home to a collection of small artisan workshops and wonderful negozi (shops), it is one of the few completely pedestrian lanes in town. That makes it the perfect place both to “vedere le vetrine” (window shop) and to “fare shopping” (go shopping - the Italians often use the English word shopping in this context). With the holidays approaching, shopping is certainly on my mind and Chiasso Barletti is sure to be one of my first stops.

The vicolo itself is interesting year round with its old doors, cobbled streets, outdoor displays of goods and art, plants, newsstand headlines, and even interesting bits of art dangling overhead. Most recently that has included a collection of colorful wooden cutouts of houses and suns; this week they’ve added Christmas decorations above the street and all along the lane. In addition to being one of my favorite shopping streets, its character also makes it my favorite detour when walking though town.

Copper pans on display in the shop Chocolat

It has been good to watch new shops put down roots here over the past few years. Each shop offers something unique and shows off the best of Lucca’s art and culture in its own way. Several of the workshops offer a chance to see an artist at work, something that makes owning one of their pieces even more special.

This collection of shops have inviting goods, enchanting and ever changing window displays, personal touches, and a warmth that draws you into to the shops and makes you want to stay awhile. The friendliness of the owners makes it even more wonderful. Stop by and chat for awhile!

Here is a sample of my favorite shops in Chiasso Barletti. First, the artisan workshops:

It’s always enjoyable to see an artist at work. Here, Stefano makes beautiful ceramic pieces.

Rossoramina offers beautiful hand painted ceramics and table linens. Step inside and watch Federica and Stefano as they create everything from tiny espresso cups and larger mugs to plates and platters as well as decorative pieces. Their designs use color and pattern in eye-catching ways. A set of their smaller size coffee cups (a perfect size for a macchiato) sits in my china cabinet and is a joy to use. This is a great go-to place for special home goods and for gifts at any time of year.

Next door, find hand-crafted jewelry at the studio of Elena Camilla Bertellotti.

This is another place where you can see artisans at work as they use their tools to create contemporary jewelry in silver and brass (or gold by special request).

The pieces are unique and the window display always makes me stop to admire the newest necklaces, rings, and earrings.

Just across the way, you can sometimes catch the artist painting at Maria Guida Studio d’Arte. Her work is both colorful and whimsical and always makes me smile. This is another great place for artwork and gifts that are unique to Lucca.

In addition to the artisan workshops, there are other special shops along this alleyway. Here are my favorites:

Chocolat, the tastiest shop in Chiasso Barletti

The tastiest shop in Chiasso Barletti is Chocolat. Not only can you find beautiful creations in chocolate here but also a variety of caramelle (candies) and loose teas. They also create whimsical window displays that change to reflect seasonal events and holidays. Their Christmas windows are especially delightful.

I love to buy table decorations in chocolate here (like their oh-so-Italian Easter Chickens) or small bags of chocolate truffles as hostess gifts. After all, one can never go wrong with chocolate, right?

Elisabetta Santi has worked in affari di cappelli (the hat business) for many years. But when the legendary Lucchese hat shop where she worked sadly closed she decided it was time to open her own shop and so created Santi punto. She opened in Chiasso Barletti during the pandemic. What a leap of faith that must have been!

Her shop sells gorgeous hats for women and men as well as scarfs, bags, coats, and umbrellas. They are artfully arranged inside the shop as well as in colorful window displays. This is the go to spot for summer sun hats, warm winter hats, rain hats, and year-round fashionable hats. Elisabetta makes her colorful hats and collections of umbrellas look like art.

Last, but definitely not least, is one of my favorite places in Lucca - Etta’s Bookshop. Run by the delightful Julia (and named after her cat Etta), the shop sells English language books and lots of fun things for book lovers. It is a cozy, friendly place - everything that a neighborhood bookshop should be.

There are many English speakers here in Lucca and Etta’s bookstore has quickly built a devoted fan base, myself included. A quick wave from Julia as I pass her shop brightens any day considerably. Even better is to stop in, chat a bit, browse, and head home with a new literary treasure (or a mind-candy guilty pleasure). Often I will do an informal “orientation walk” with newcomers to Lucca (if you’re a blog reader coming to Lucca for a long stay I am happy to do this!) and Etta’s Bookshop is always a stop on the tour.

I walk through Chiasso Barletti nearly everyday, often going out of my way just because I enjoy the atmosphere here (and the lack of automobiles). There is always something new to see in the changing window displays, the vignettes outside of storefronts, the flowers along the lane, the decorations overhead. It’s fun to see the shopkeepers, a small community of their own making, chatting outside their shops. It is especially wonderful at this time of year, with a red carpet rolled out down the center of the alley, little trees decorated with ribbons on the walls, and holiday colors in all the shop windows. It’s the perfect spot for some holiday shopping!

One of my all-time favorite window displays at Chocolat.

Note: No paid advertising here - these are just a few of my favorite places!