Yes, David is Naked

When I travel, I often collect magnets from various places. Monet’s Giverny, La Foce Gardens, the Eiffel Tower - all reside on my refrigerator, a constant reminder of wonderful trips.   

One of the magnets, which I brought home from an early trip to Florence, is of the David.

Years ago, I noticed my then 8-year-old grandson staring at it.  “Nana”, he asked, “why do you have a naked man on your fridge?”.   That was a great opportunity to begin a conversation about classical art, the Italian renaissance, a sculptor’s skill in recreating the human body, and the nude as an art form.  My grandson was not buying any of it.  “Well’, he countered, “I just think it’s inappropriate”.   All I could do was laugh.   

On a later trip I purchased a matching game for my even younger grandkids.  Each card had a photo of a famous Tuscan landmark or piece of art.  Included were, I think you can guess this, a photo of the David. Another card had a photo of Morgante the Dwarf, often known as the “Fat Man on the Turtle”, from the Boboli Gardens. Morgante is, of course, naked. This matching game has been a favorite of my grandkids for years.  And yes, the two nudes get lots of giggles, but the kids have learned a lot about art and Tuscany in their search to be the first one to uncover “the naked guy”.  All 4 grandkids have survived the nudity just fine. 

 My grandson’s opinion, as an 8-year-old, was understandable.  But I expect a more sophisticated and open-minded attitude from adults.  I am still scratching my head over the outrage of some parents in Florida over photos of the David used in a 6th grade art class.  Male nudes have been present in classic sculpture since at least the time of the Greeks.  Most people understand the artistic value and the role of important art pieces in education.  And most understand the difference between art and pornography.  But, a few parents in that school did not and wielded an inordinate amount of influence, leading to the principal resigning.

The much discussed and analyzed hand of David.

David during the fig leaf years (public domain photo)

Granted, Floridians are not the only ones to be a bit bothered by David’s nudity.  Some long-ago residents of Florence also objected, and after the statue’s completion Michelangelo was asked to cover the genitals with leaves.  Those were later removed, restoring the statue to Michelangelo’s original vision. It has remained thus ever since.  A replica of the David in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London was covered in a fig leaf whenever Queen Victoria visited.  Apparently, the Queen was outraged.  One wonders if Albert was asked to sport a fig leaf when visiting the Queen’s chamber.

 Still, I was saddened to see a principal lose her job over the inclusion of the biblical David in a class.  But I was delighted when the city of Florence brought that school principal to Florence to see the statue in person. How great was that?

This reproduction stands in the Piazza della Signoria in Florence, where the original statue was displayed before being moved to the Accademia Gallery.

I am happy to say that as my grandson has grown so has his appreciation for this magnificent work of art. When he visited me in Italy for the first time several years ago, along with his sister and their mother (my daughter), I took them all to Florence to the Academia Gallery where the David commands an entire room. 

We walked around him, noting the unique size of his…. hands. We marveled at the muscles in his legs and his 6-pack abs. In the end both of my grandkids found that the David was so amazing that they hardly noticed he was naked! 

David is, of course, not the only naked statue in Florence.  There are many nudes, partial nudes, and exposed breasts in Italian sculpture.  Many of the fountains in Italy are anchored by nudes, including the Fountain of Neptune in Florence (below).

Fountain of Neptune, Florence

And not all the nudes are male. There are some beautiful female nudes to be found. Here are a few of my favorites from the Accademia Gallery in Florence, the Neptune Fountain in Bologna, and a modern piece in the Museo del Bozzetti in Pietrasanta. I hope you find all of these sculptures as beautiful as I do.

The Pharmacy of Santa Maria Novella in Florence

As I stand at the entrance to the Pharmacy of Santa Maria Novella I have a sudden thought - this must be what heaven smells like. I can hardly wait to go inside!

The official name is Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, in English that translates to the Workshop of Perfumes and Pharmaceuticals of Santa Maria Novella. That is a fairly ordinary name for an extraordinary place.

The pharmacy was established by Dominican friars from the nearby church of Santa Maria Novella during the early 13th century, making it one of the oldest European apothecaries still in operation. Centuries ago the friars cultivated herbs and used them to make herbal medicines, tinctures, and ointments for the monastery. Some of their brews, scented with rose water, herbs, and spices, were designed to fight the plagues that ravaged Florence and to treat a variety of other ailments. The friars became famous for their potions and in the 1600’s they opened their pharmacy to the public.

It has been a long time since the pharmacy was run by monks. Fortunately they left behind both their legacy and the formulas they created. For several generations the pharmacy was owned by a family who honored the traditions left by those long-ago friars. They expanded the business to many countries and gave it an on-line presence (in the US the website is: us.smnovella.com). This year ownership was acquired by an Italian beauty products company, Italmobiliare. Let’s hope they continue the wonderful legacy of those long ago monks.

The pharmacy still operates in its historic location on Via della Scala in what was once the Chapel of San Niccolò. The original chapel was built in thanks for the care given to a local merchant, Dardano Acciaioli, by the friars of the church of Santa Maria Novella. It is no surprise then that a trip to the pharmacy feels a bit like a religious pilgrimage.

Walking down Via della Scala towards number 16, you will know you have arrived when you become aware of that most enticing scent. The outside of the building is unremarkable, so allow the scent to draw you in. The experience begins just inside the doors as you cross the ornate marble floor and pass through the elaborate floral decorations. Just follow that scent!

The experience begins at the entrance to the antique pharmacy

Just off the entry hall is a room that was once the sacristy of the the Chapel of San Niccolò. Adorned with beautiful frescoes from around the year 1400 (below), today this room is part museum and part showroom.

Each subsequent room in the pharmacy evokes the ancient apothecary, provides interesting historical artifacts, and contains elegantly displayed products.

Shop here and you follow in the footsteps of Catherine di Medici, an early patron of the pharmacy. A unique perfume was developed for her, named Acqua della Regina. It was the first perfume to be made with alcohol as a base and it traveled with her to France. The scent is still produced today along with a host of other wonderful scents.

Perhaps Catherine di Medici wore an amulet like this one on display in the pharmacy, filled with a potion to ward off illness.

In addition to perfumes, the other products sold here include elixirs, liquors, soaps, potpourri, lozenges, scented candles, and skin care products. There are also some beautiful accessories for the home. All are manufactured locally using traditional methods.

I visited just before Christmas when the seasonal decorations were fabulous and the gift buying opportunities were endless. Every product was beautifully presented, even a simple package of mints came in an artfully designed tin. The delicate filigree items (candle and potpourri holders) are handmade by a local craftsman. They make lovely Christmas ornaments, with or without potpourri. Each gift comes in a box tied with an elegant ribbon.

The Christmas tree at Santa Maria Novella pharmacy, 2021

Florence is full of churches and museums - a host of “must see” places. The Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella provides a different Florentine experience. It is a feast for the senses and a taste of luxury both ancient and contemporary. It is a unique way to step back into the history of this remarkable Italian city.

Firenze at Christmas: Lights, Sparkle, Magic

It is hard not to compare Christmas this year with last year’s holiday in Italy. Hands down, this year wins! In 2020 the holiday came with increased COVID restrictions which prevented travel between cities. That meant no trip to Firenze (Florence) to marvel at the Christmas decorations (a small thing in light of the more serious issues associated with the pandemic, but still, one more small loss). A little bit of sparkle would have been most welcome at the end of last year!

As of mid-December 2021 no such restrictions on travel are in place. Firenze is aglow and welcoming visitors. There are precautions in place, including a requirement to wear masks outdoors in the main piazzas during certain times (I actually witnessed local police enforcing this rule). And while there were definitely crowds when I visited in early December, by Florentine standards they were fairly modest. Best of all, Firenze at Christmas is as magical as ever!

By day there is un sacco (a whole lot) of things to see and do. I started my day in Firenze with a lunchtime stroll through the Mercato di Natale. The market sits in front of the church of Santa Croce and brings a blend of Italian and German holiday celebrations to the city. After a year’s absence, the 2021 market marked a return to tradition. Plus I enjoyed a German flavored lunch from one of the many stalls.

Many hours can be spent along the streets of Firenze peeking into shops filled with Christmas goods, seeing the elaborately decorated shop windows, and enjoying all the greenery that frames the doorways of shops, cafes, and hotels. (Some of my favorites below)

There are many other things to see during the day - the stunning terra cotta nativity in front of the Duomo, the nearby Christmas tree made even more beautiful by the back drop of the marble clad cathedral, happy kids riding the carousel in Piazza della Repubblica. In Firenze, Christmas is everywhere.

Life size terracotta figures make a simple but beautiful nativity scene outside of the Duomo. Note that there is no infant Jesus yet - he arrives Christmas Eve.

For a time out, I recommend a stop at Caffè Gilli for a pot of tea and a little dolce (sweet). Gilli has an old world elegance and provides the perfect setting to sit, catch your breath, and appreciate the Italian Christmas spirit. An added bonus is that the cafe offers a view of the carousel in Piazza della Repubblica and also has one of the best windows in town, full of whimsical Christmas chocolate creations.

As wonderful as the city is by day, it is at night that the magic really happens.

Once the sun goes down the streets sparkle with lights. A walk down Via dei Servi, from Piazza SS Annunziata toward the glowing lantern atop the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore (the Duomo), is a breathtaking sight.

Another not-to-be missed sight is a nighttime view of the ever-changing display on the facade of the Rinascente department store in Piazza della Repubblica.

For intense sparkle, head to the area around the intersection of Via Tornabuoni and Via degli Strozzi and prepare to be amazed.

The lights here are intertwined with gold and silver ornaments. They dazzle and seem to fill the sky. It is impossible to stand here and not smile.

I was in Firenze the night of the tree lighting, which meant there were some special celebrations. Drummers and flag bearers in medieval costume and a brass band attended the ceremony. Afterwards, a train load of Santas arrived and then wandered through town throughout the evening, delighting adults and children alike.

I love Firenze any time of year. But at Christmas, and especially this year, it made the perfect holiday excursion. Grazie Firenze!

Outdoor Sculpture in Florence

The city of Florence is a gift, one I can receive time after time and find just as thrilling as I did on my first visit more than 20 years ago. There is so much to see - cathedrals, small churches, bridges, museums, architecture, hills, and beautiful Tuscan skies. Usually all of these things are enjoyed while simultaneously dealing with (and grumbling about) large groups of tourists. However, this past year has been a bit different (in so many ways) and with fewer people about, there is little competition for close-up views of Florence’s wonderful art and architecture. Even better if, like me, sculpture is one of your favorite art forms. On my last visit I was happy to just wander, never even entering a museum. Instead, I spent my time immersed in the beauty of the many outdoor sculptures and statues in Florence.
It’s impossible to see all of Florence’s sculptural wonders in one visit, but described below is a walk that I love which includes some of my Florentine favorites. And although right now travel is impossible for many of us - I can’t even go to Florence from my home an hour away in Lucca due to our most recent COVID restrictions - I hope this walk is a path we might all enjoy on a future trip to this special city.

The walk begins north of the Duomo in Piazza SS Annunziata (named for the church at the north end). When in Florence I always try to make time for this church. While the rest of my walk across Florence is outdoors, inside this church is one of the loveliest tomb monuments I’ve ever seen. How graceful, and sad, is this woman who keeps eternal watch over the tomb of a loved one? A stop here is a great way to begin a sculpture walk.

A tomb monument inside the church of SS Annunziata, Florence

In the piazza in front of the church are two fountains featuring sculptures of mythical creatures (by the artist Pietro Tacca) as well as a massive bronze statue of Ferdinand I on horseback (by Giambologna). If you look closely, you’ll also see a series of round della Robbia pieces above the arches of the Ospedale degli Innocenti (you can see one above and to the right of the fountain in the photo below).

Next stop - the Duomo, where the sculptures include both large statues and countless small, detailed sculptures adorning the facade and doorways.

On my last visit I did not approach them with an eye toward the historical significance of each piece - who is that saint? that pope? that angel? (for that it is better to visit the Duomo museum) but rather just with an appreciation for the craftsmanship and beauty of the work.

The intricacy of the carvings, the stunning colors, the gracefulness of the faces, they way they are placed on the colorful facade - what a display of artistry.

A much smaller, but equally beautiful sculpture. Many of these small marble figures surround the doorways and windows of the cathedral.

After spending time at the Duomo, the walk continues to the Piazza della Signoria and the Loggia dei Lanzi, full of famous statues including a scaled-down reproduction of Michelangelo’s David and the fascinating but brutal Rape of the Sabines by Giambologna.

Walking further towards the river Arno, at the far end of the piazza, is the Fountain of Neptune. Statues are wonderful, but a statue that is also part of a large fountain is fantastic (especially is you happen to visit on a warm day).

The Fountain of Neptune, Florence

Wandering past the Palazzo Vecchio and along the Uffizi courtyard are a series of statues of famous artists, scientists, and literary giants. From left to right below: Cellini, DaVinci, and Donatello.

Walking across the Ponte Vecchio, there is a bust of Cellini. He was a master goldsmith, as well as an artist and writer. He may have been a bit of a troublemaker, but he’s a home town boy and it is fitting to honor him on the bridge where today so much of the Florentine gold is sold.

The inscription reads: Benvenuto Cellini Maestro Gli Orafi di Firenze

Across the Ponte Vecchio, the walk comes to an end. For me, the perfect ending to a wander through Florence’s outdoor sculptures is a lunch “oltrarno” at the restaurant 4 Leone. After all, fabulous food is another Italian art form!

Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (The Museum of the Works of the Cathedral, Florence)

Many years ago, on my first visit to Florence, I visited the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (the museum associated with the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, usually referred to as “the Duomo”). At that time (1996), the museum was a jumble of a space, small and crowded with poorly displayed art and artifacts from the famous cathedral. I was not inspired to return.

Detail from a sculpture by Ticciati, once part of the main altar in the Duomo, now in the redesigned museum entry

 In recent years, the museum has been enlarged and has undergone a top-to-bottom renovation (completed in 2015). On a recent trip to Florence I decided to revisit the museum to see the changes – and my only word is WOW - what a change! 

16th century bust of Mary Magdalene, Giovanni Bandini

The museum is now an amazing space, full of light, open galleries, and fascinating art and artifacts from throughout the cathedral’s history.

The displays are well organized, beautifully presented, and provide good historical context.

Many of the pieces are original, moved from the cathedral itself. These include Ghiberti’s bronze baptistery doors, an evocative Pietà by Michelangelo, a carved wooden Mary Magdalene by Donatello, and portions of a larger-than-life sculpture from what was once a main altar in an earlier version of the cathedral (top photo).

A reproduction of the church facade, lined with statuary, fills the long, high gallery on the ground floor. How wonderful to get a closer look at these examples of statues that are so high up on the actual cathedral’s exterior. The facade can also be enjoyed from a viewing gallery on the floor above, which provides an even closer look at the statues high up on the recreated facade.

Statue gallery

 Across from this wall of statues are the two massive bronze baptistery doors by Ghiberti. I could spend hours looking at the details of the panels that make up these doors. Each panel tells a story in intricate detail.

Detail of panels from the north baptistry doors

Wooden model of the lantern that rises above the cupola

Central to the history of the cathedral is the building of the cupola (dome). Designed by Brunelleschi, it is a marvel of engineering and architecture.

The museum has an area dedicated to its construction that includes models of the dome and the lantern that caps it, a video presentation, and a display of tools used in the dome’s construction.

 Considering that the cupola was built in the 15th century, is this impressive engineering or miracle?

 One of my favorite displays was the reproductions of the stained glass windows.  More than a static display, the dynamic technology brings the windows up close, allowing the brilliant colors and designs to unfold before one’s eyes to be viewed in detail.

Of course a cathedral must have music and  the museum includes beautifully illustrated books of sacred music and two marble choir lofts (actually designed for organs not choirs). One loft was designed by della Robbia and the other by Donatello.  Both are beautiful but quite different in character.

Joyful children play across della Robbia’s sculpted choir loft

Detail from large book of sacred music

To end a visit here, be sure to view the actual dome from the viewing platform on the museum’s top floor.

The redesigned Museo dell’Opera del Duomo is nothing short of marvelous. Kudos to the redesign team - what a gift they have given us.   - Post by JMB

Location:   Piazza del Duomo 9, 50122 Florence, Italy

Hours:  Sunday through Saturday 9 a.m. to 7 p.m., Sunday 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.  Closed Mondays and first Tuesday of the month.  Hours subject to change; best to check ahead of time

Cost: an 18 euro ticket allows access to the museum and baptistery .  Several combined museum tickets also area available