Good Memories of Traditional Italian Cuisine

The flavors, tastes, colors, and the scents of food can make special memories, lingering in our subconscious to be recalled at later times. These memories may be associated with certain people (the scent of the butter my father always added as the last ingredient in pancake batter) or places (the aroma of an espresso on the shores of Lake Como) or events (the smell of mushrooms filling the kitchen in a cooking class at The Olive Press Kitchen).  Specific dishes also evoke memories, often of family or culture specific foods.  We remember where, when, and with whom we shared them. 

This 2025 book lists all of the restaurants in the Union del Buon Ricordo along with information about the specialty dishes.

The best taste memories reflect the traditional ways of preparing foods.  With this in mind, in 1964, a group of restauranteurs in Italy formed an association to recall classic food memories and to work to preserve them. Called the Unione Ristoranti del Buon Ricordo (the Union of Good Memory Restaurants) the group is headquartered in Parma and includes restaurants that feature local, authentic, and traditional dishes. Some of the restaurants are small and simple places while others are more upscale dining spots that use traditional ingredients in new ways. 

In addition to preparing traditional dishes, all have one other special thing in common – a unique ceramic plate that represents the restaurant’s special “buon ricordo” dish. Each plate is created and hand painted by artisans in the town of Vetri sul Mare. Order the dish (or the special Buon Ricordo menu) and you get to take the plate home with you. The plates make wonderful collections. Many of the restaurants display not only their own plate but also plates from other Buon Ricordo places. What a great way to make lasting memories!

Until recently, despite 30 years of travel in Italy, I had never heard of this association. Considering my interest in Italian regional cuisine, I fear that I’ve missed a great many culinary opportunities over the years. Fortunately for me, two friends from Santa Fe, travelers and collectors of plates and memories, introduced me to the idea of these “plate” restaurants. They took me for my first Buon Ricordo experience in Pietrasanta, a small town not far from Lucca. The restaurant, Osteria La Tecchia, was small and charming. The very personable chef and waitress were delighted when we requested the Buon Ricordo menu, which featured local seafood. They were happy to explain the origin of the local, traditional dishes of this part of Tuscany which lies close to the sea.

As an extra regalo (gift), they started us with a plate of fried anchovies – crisp, non-greasy, and delicious. The menu progressed with an antipasto of cozze (mussels) in a tomato broth. These were followed by a primi of Spaghetti with arselle (a tiny clam local to this area, the restaurants specialty dish and the one depicted on their plate). The secondi (second or main course) was a delicate white fish in a flavorful puttanesca broth fragrant with olives, capers and tomatoes. 

Of course, there was a lovely local white wine and a dessert - a warm apple cake topped with gelato.  Each dish was delicious and the portions just the right size to allow us to enjoy them all.

This was a special day, thanks to my visiting friends.  I was happy to take home my very first plate along with a book detailing all of the Buon Ricordo restaurants. And I was hooked on the idea of beginning my own collection of plates.

Since that first experience, I have enjoyed two more Ristorante del Buon Ricordo adventures.  One in Parma and one in Assisi.  Look for more on those in next week’s post!

The start of my collection of plates and Buon Ricordi.

Spring in Pietrasanta: Art, Philosophy, and Giraffes

Pietrasanta has everything a small town in Italy should have - beautiful scenery, a lively main piazza, historic buildings and statues, a lovely church, cafes, and good food. And art. It is the art that draws me back time after time.

One of many whimsical giraffes that can be seen throughout Pietrasanta this month.

Visiting is easy as it is just an hour-long train ride from my home in Lucca. Unless of course, as in my most recent visit, there is an interruption on the tracks, train delays, an extra change of trains, a track in a tiny station with no signage, and you hop on the wrong train and have to double back. But don’t let that discourage you! My friend and I laughed it off and eventually arrived to spend a lovely day in Pietrasanta.

Famous as a center of sculpture (the marble quarries of Carrara are nearby), the town has permanent outdoor installations of bronze and marble sculptures, from smaller pieces to Botero’s massive bronze warrior (below).

In addition to these permanent works, Pietrasanta hosts temporary exhibits which fill the main piazza and nearby spaces (as well as some indoor spots) with an ever-changing display of works by contemporary artists.

The current exhibit, in place until June 5th, features the artistry of Sandro Gorra. Gorra’s background is in commercial art where he worked as an illustrator and creative director for advertising campaigns. That was his work. Today, he concentrates on his art which includes sculpture, illustrations, and a sort of philosophical short poetry which accompanies his works. And then there are his giraffes.

Gorra says that this piece, made from 4 tons of marble, is one of his favorites. A loving mother giraffe tending to her baby.

Why giraffes? According to a published interview with Gorra, the giraffes serve as a parable, representing man’s desire for superiority. A giraffe towers above, looking down on everyone. Each one is unique in his spotted form.

This begs the question - without those spots, what would the giraffe be? Anonymous! Naked!

Change - a predictable part of life - in progress.

Change is inevitable and the spots on Gorra’s giraffes do indeed change. They fade away, they fall off, new ones appear. In fact, during my visit, two men, one looking suspiciously like the artist himself (or was that just my imagination?) were busy painting new spots on two of the giraffes. This would be consistent with Gorra’s view that change is to be expected and that irony is a part of the human (and giraffe) condition.

Alongside the works of art are illustrated phrases, providing an intriguing look into the artist’s mind and bits of his philosophy. I enjoyed these sprigs of wisdom just as much as the sculptures. Both made me smile, both made me think. Isn’t that the best part of art?

Here are some examples (any mistakes in translation are entirely my fault).

Don’t erase it, it is not a stain. It is your sign.

Ideas are always around, but if you don’t notice them they go away

And my favorite one of all - it just may become my personal mantra:

Everyone should read at least one giraffe a day.

A day in Pietrasanta is always a joy. Sipping a cafe in the Piazza del Duomo. Strolling through the piazza and the Chiostro di Sant’Agostino. A quick visit to the beautiful Duomo. Wandering the side streets. A quick stop at the Misericordia Chapel to see Botero’s Heaven and Hell frescoes. A relaxed lunch at a favorite spot. Add in Gorra’s giraffes and the day is just perfect!