September in Lucca

September is one of my favorite months in Italy.  It starts out as summer – hot and humid – and then slowly transforms itself into autumn. By late September the mornings and evenings are cool enough that sweaters and scarves make their first appearance of the season. The cooler weather is perfect for a passeggiata, the Italian tradition of an evening stroll, yet still pleasant enough for sitting outdoors at a cafe.  The AC (if one is lucky enough to have it) has been turned off and the windows are open, letting in cool breezes and the hint of fall that is in the air.

Late September skies are beautiful and the weather is pleasant.

 In Lucca, September is a unique month. It even has a special name -  Settembre Lucchese.  It is a month of festivals, artisan markets, concerts, and celebrations. 

This year September kicked off with Murabilia, the annual fall garden show.  Murabilia has everything for the fall garden, from plants to yard art to terracotta pots.  For inside the home there are delicate orchids, fall gourds, and pretty linens.  Artisans demonstrate and sell their crafts and food stands offer local products – meats, cheese, breads, garlic, and flavored syrups.  

September also brings the Palio della Santa Croce. The Palio is has its roots in medieval times as members of the three contrade (districts) in the historic center of Lucca engage in a crossbow competition. The event starts with a procession of musicians, flag throwers, costumes, and the very medieval looking archers.  The procession weaves its way through Lucca, stopping to perform in some of the piazzas, eventually making their way to the area behind the Cathedral of San Martino where this year’s competition took place.

September’s most important event, The Luminaria of Santa Croce, takes place every year on the evening of September 13th.   The luminaria is in honor of Lucca’s most important ancient artifact, the wooden crucifix known as the Volto Santo (Holy Face). 

The legend of the Volto Santo is this: it was crafted by Nicodemus who fell asleep before carving the face.  When he awoke, he found that the face had been miraculously completed. The legend continues with a journey across the sea to the coast of Italy and then a trip by oxcart to Lucca more than 1000 years ago.  Both journeys are considered miracles as, according to the legend, the ship and the oxcart where unmanned and divinely guided to Lucca. The crucifix became a stop on the pilgrim’s route to Rome. It remains a venerated religious object to this day, drawing modern day pilgrims to Lucca. 

The crucifix usually rests in a small chapel within the Cathedral of San Martino where the figure of Christ is dressed in a gold vestments during the festival. This year was a bit different as the crucifix is undergoing restoration.  It has been moved from its small chapel to an area inside the cathedral where it is possible to watch the restoration in progress.   

During the luminaria procession religious and civic groups move through the candlelit streets of Lucca.  The Volto Santo is represented by a cloth image held aloft. Each year there is a large cross made of flowers. Participants hold candles and prayers are chanted along the route. It is a beautiful and moving event with both religious and cultural meaning.

Settembre Lucchese came to a close this year with the Festival of San Michele (St. Michael the Archangel).  A special mass was held in the Basilica of San Michele, one of Lucca’s historic churches.  A concert, on the evening of September 23rd, filled the church with music by the Polifonica Lucchese and the Boccherini Orchestra. The fullness of the music, along with beautiful voices in the setting of a historic church, combined to create a very special evening.

 September is an ideal time to visit Lucca. It is not too early to begin planning for a September 2024 visit !

By the third week of September the temperatures are cool enough for a late morning walk along Lucca’s shady walls.

Linda's Dolci. A Taste of Italy in New Mexico

I’ve spent most of this summer visiting my family in Albuquerque, New Mexico. It’s always good to spend time with my kids and grandkids, but at the same time I really miss Italy.  I long for walks around Lucca, Medieval streetscapes, and the sounds of the Italian language. I especially miss an early morning coffee or an aperitivo in a local bar. Those are cultural experiences that just can not be recreated here.

There’s nothing more Italian than a cornetto filled with jam, pastry cream, or pistachio creme. At Linda’s Dolci they are delicious!

 Albuquerque is not like some of the bigger cities in the US, such as New York or Boston.  There is no Little Italy neighborhood here, no part of town where Italian is spoken, no area where the culture of Italy prevails. I am always searching for something to bring a little taste of Italy to me when I am here in New Mexico. I found an Italian language class which was a big help this summer as was the local Italian Culture and Language Group.  But the best surprise was finding a new Italian pasticceria just a few minutes from my New Mexico condo. You just don’t expect to find an authentic Italian bakery in an Albuquerque shopping center, but that is exactly where I found one. Lucky me!

 Linda Manias is from Pordenone in the Friuli-Venezia-Guilia region of northeastern Italy.  While living in the US with her American husband she found she really missed Italian pastries (boy can I relate to that).  Her solution was to begin baking, recreating all the flavors she missed. And wow - can Linda bake! 

Linda’s Zeppole

In 2022, Linda moved to Albuquerque, along with her husband, where she began to offer Italian cakes and pastries, operating out of shared space in a local cafe.  Her business grew and now Linda has opened her very own Pasticceria – Linda’s Dolci – where she serves a wide variety of treats, both to enjoy in the cafe along with a coffee or portare via (to take away).

Prima colazione (breakfast) at Linda’s Dolci

 For me, a morning cappuccino and a cornetto at Linda’s Dolci brings me that slice of Italian flavor that I crave.  It’s no surprise that I always seem to run into another local Italophile there. Linda’s is the place where you just might hear Italian spoken by customers who come by for conversation as well as pastries.

Besides those breakfasts goodies, Linda fills her pastry case with all kinds of treats. The selection varies each day. You may find crisp cookies, jam filled squares, vanilla or chocolate glazed cream puffs, fruit topped delights, tiramisu, zeppole, cannoli, and delicious cakes.  You’ll even find gluten free and vegan options. Orders for custom cakes or pasty trays are always welcome.

 If you are in the Albuquerque area, be sure to stop in and say Buongiorno to the delightful Linda (you’ll find her back in the kitchen, hard at work).  Even better if you want to practice your Italian with her! 

 Don’t these photos make you hungry?

By the time this blog posts on Monday August 14th I will be back in Italy. Look for me enjoying a cappuccino and cornetto at one of the wonderful bars or pastry shops in Lucca!

A big thanks to Linda for giving me permission to use some photos from her website in this post.

August, Relaxation, and Bicycles

Summer is prime time for all ages to bike along Lucca’s walls

It’s hard for me to believe that another August has rolled around. Where did June and July go? Like many, no matter where we find ourselves this month, I am a bit tired of the heat. Isn’t there a summer equivalent of Ground Hog’s Day to tell us how many more weeks of hot weather lie ahead?

In Italy, this is the month for holidays at the seaside, doing crossword puzzles on a lounge chair, celebrating Ferragosto with friends in mid-August, and taking time to slow down and relax. This week, as I prepare to return to Italy from my summer visit in the US, I am embracing the Italian attitude toward August and taking a bit of break. And while I haven’t even caught a glimpse of the Italian seaside this summer, I am looking forward to spending some time later this month at an Italian lake. Fingers crossed there will be some cool lake breezes!

Instead of writing for this week’s blog post, I have been looking through some old photos. In doing so, I realized just how many times a stray person walks into the perfect shot I had lined up, a car messes up a photo of an ancient building, or a big ugly trash can ruins the photographic potential of a little alley.

This fading fresco (since restored) is even more interesting with the blue bicycle.

The one thing that shows up in a photo and always seems to make a scene even more interesting and classically Italian is a bicycle. Lucca is full of them and they often show up in my photos.

A bike may be parked in front of an ancient vista, chained to a window grate, peeking out from behind a gate, or cruising along the wall that circles the historic center of Lucca. Sometimes the bike is just a serendipitous part of the photo and sometimes it is the main focus.

Bikes can be handy when visiting the flower markets.

It’s not unusual to see a group of bicycle racers flying around the walls or a couple of Lucca’s local police.

Some bikes are workhorses, moving goods - or children - around town. Some even deliver gelato!

Bicycles really are an integral part of life in Lucca. I can’t seem to stop taking photos of them! And here’s one that offers a glimpse of fall.

Yes, David is Naked

When I travel, I often collect magnets from various places. Monet’s Giverny, La Foce Gardens, the Eiffel Tower - all reside on my refrigerator, a constant reminder of wonderful trips.   

One of the magnets, which I brought home from an early trip to Florence, is of the David.

Years ago, I noticed my then 8-year-old grandson staring at it.  “Nana”, he asked, “why do you have a naked man on your fridge?”.   That was a great opportunity to begin a conversation about classical art, the Italian renaissance, a sculptor’s skill in recreating the human body, and the nude as an art form.  My grandson was not buying any of it.  “Well’, he countered, “I just think it’s inappropriate”.   All I could do was laugh.   

On a later trip I purchased a matching game for my even younger grandkids.  Each card had a photo of a famous Tuscan landmark or piece of art.  Included were, I think you can guess this, a photo of the David. Another card had a photo of Morgante the Dwarf, often known as the “Fat Man on the Turtle”, from the Boboli Gardens. Morgante is, of course, naked. This matching game has been a favorite of my grandkids for years.  And yes, the two nudes get lots of giggles, but the kids have learned a lot about art and Tuscany in their search to be the first one to uncover “the naked guy”.  All 4 grandkids have survived the nudity just fine. 

 My grandson’s opinion, as an 8-year-old, was understandable.  But I expect a more sophisticated and open-minded attitude from adults.  I am still scratching my head over the outrage of some parents in Florida over photos of the David used in a 6th grade art class.  Male nudes have been present in classic sculpture since at least the time of the Greeks.  Most people understand the artistic value and the role of important art pieces in education.  And most understand the difference between art and pornography.  But, a few parents in that school did not and wielded an inordinate amount of influence, leading to the principal resigning.

The much discussed and analyzed hand of David.

David during the fig leaf years (public domain photo)

Granted, Floridians are not the only ones to be a bit bothered by David’s nudity.  Some long-ago residents of Florence also objected, and after the statue’s completion Michelangelo was asked to cover the genitals with leaves.  Those were later removed, restoring the statue to Michelangelo’s original vision. It has remained thus ever since.  A replica of the David in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London was covered in a fig leaf whenever Queen Victoria visited.  Apparently, the Queen was outraged.  One wonders if Albert was asked to sport a fig leaf when visiting the Queen’s chamber.

 Still, I was saddened to see a principal lose her job over the inclusion of the biblical David in a class.  But I was delighted when the city of Florence brought that school principal to Florence to see the statue in person. How great was that?

This reproduction stands in the Piazza della Signoria in Florence, where the original statue was displayed before being moved to the Accademia Gallery.

I am happy to say that as my grandson has grown so has his appreciation for this magnificent work of art. When he visited me in Italy for the first time several years ago, along with his sister and their mother (my daughter), I took them all to Florence to the Academia Gallery where the David commands an entire room. 

We walked around him, noting the unique size of his…. hands. We marveled at the muscles in his legs and his 6-pack abs. In the end both of my grandkids found that the David was so amazing that they hardly noticed he was naked! 

David is, of course, not the only naked statue in Florence.  There are many nudes, partial nudes, and exposed breasts in Italian sculpture.  Many of the fountains in Italy are anchored by nudes, including the Fountain of Neptune in Florence (below).

Fountain of Neptune, Florence

And not all the nudes are male. There are some beautiful female nudes to be found. Here are a few of my favorites from the Accademia Gallery in Florence, the Neptune Fountain in Bologna, and a modern piece in the Museo del Bozzetti in Pietrasanta. I hope you find all of these sculptures as beautiful as I do.

A Quiet Monday Morning in Lucca

A crowded Piazza Anfiteatro during the Santa Zita celebration.

Lucca’s tourist season begins in earnest as soon as April arrives.  Between a host of holidays, a major music festival, and the arrival of gorgeous spring weather, the last few weekends have seen this small city bursting with activity and people.  

 This year it also seems as if the big tour groups, many of them coming from cruise ships docked in Livorno, have arrived early and in bigger numbers than ever.  The tour groups come from all over.  I’ve heard guides speaking in Italian, German, English, and French.  I am happy to see visitors introduced to Lucca, but …. and this is a big but … the small streets and alleyways of Lucca were not made for so many large groups. 

The smaller groups accompanied by private local groups move through town with ease (and are an ideal way to see Lucca), but the really big groups tend to obstruct traffic, clog the streets, and make moving through town quite difficult for locals. 

How I wish the large groups would be advised to keep to one side of the street to allow room for people to pass!  If I had a euro for every time I say “permesso” as I try to get through a large group, well, my rent would be paid for the next 3 months.   Do I sound grumpy?  Well, yes, I guess I am a bit.  After a quiet winter and early spring, the sudden arrival of crowds feels a bit overwhelming.

 The good news is that Monday mornings bring a bit of relief.  Last Monday I was out early to run some errands - a trip to the lavanderia (laundry) to pick up my linens, to the Ortofrutta (fruit and vegetable market) for some vegetables, and to the little shop that sells all kinds of electric lights and appliances to get a replacement light bulb for my kitchen.  I avoided doing these errands over the weekend, but a Monday morning seemed like the right time.  The quiet streets were just perfect for being out and about. 

Early on a Monday morning is the perfect time to go to the Ortofrutta. Look at those gorgeous fruits and veggies!

 Even the main piazzas were nearly empty and the streets around my apartment were quiet too. I encountered just a few locals going about their daily tasks. Shopkeepers were opening up and delivery trucks were bringing supplies to shops and restaurants. Birds sang and their songs were not lost in the hubbub of a busy weekend.

 Mild temperatures, a soft breeze, and uncrowded streets made for a perfect morning of wandering through town and noticing all the wonderful things about spring in Lucca.  Green trees, pretty flowers in pots and on balconies, the old brick of medieval buildings, pretty doors and windows, hidden corners, and the sounds of the city waking up and coming to life. 

Even the street leading to the Torre Guinigi was nearly empty on this Monday morning.

 Around town the warm weather means that windows are open and the sounds of daily life pour out.  A baby crying.  Someone singing.  A radio on.  The sound of a brass horn coming from the music school near my apartment.  The musical sound of Italian chatter drifting out to the street.  These are some of the things I love most about life in Italy.

 The summer crowds, along with the heat and humidity of an Italian summer will soon be here. Those are some of the reasons I will soon head to New Mexico for much of the summer.  There I also have the bonus of a good long visit with my family – including my eldest grandson who will graduate from high school next week (does that ever make me feel old!).   But come August I will be glad to get back to Lucca, so glad that even the crowds won’t make me grumpy.

A few more photos of Lucca on a quiet Monday morning -