Wandering in Florence

It is easy to be overwhelmed by the city of Florence. The art. The architecture. The history. The crowds !

Even though I live most of the year a short hour and twenty minute train ride away, I’ve only spent short periods of time in Florence since moving to Italy. Most visits have been day trips or at best one night stays for a specific purpose - a birthday lunch for a friend, the dramatic Florentine Easter celebration, the annual Christmas market. I once spent a day in the city shoe shopping, which felt (and still does) rather decadent.

It had been a long time since I visited for a longer stay or did the things Florence is famous for - museums, churches, markets, exhibits.

But that changed this past week with a 5 day stay that gave me lots of time to catch up with Florence.

November is a great time to visit Florence. There are still crowds, but they are much smaller than in high season. The cool, but not cold, weather is perfect, even with on and off rain. It was fortunate that the heavy rains that caused so many problems in Tuscany last week happened mostly later in the evenings and overnight in Florence and that there was no flooding. Watching the umbrellas go up and down filled the streets with changing colors.

I arrived with a list of things I wanted to see and do, many of them favorites from long ago trips or classic Florentine sights. And yet, with the luxury of a longer stay, what I found myself doing first was just wandering.

I wandered through main piazzas and down tiny side streets. Past small markets and interesting shops. I even came across a brass band who filled a piazza with sound. I found a small sandwich stand that I first discovered 20+ years ago on a food tour and had been unable to find since. I got turned around and a little bit lost and found surprises around every corner. Perhaps best of all is just to people watch and observe Florentine daily life with camera in hand.

I crossed the Ponte Santa Trinità for views of the Ponte Vecchio. The dark and cloudy skies changed the character of the Arno, creating shadows and reflections in the water.

I spent some time looking up. There are lots of interesting things to be seen far above eye level.

Wandering through Florence presents so many small details to discover - pretty doors, carved stone decorations, street side shrines, and the outsides of famous churches. Wandering provides the luxury to sip a coffee in a pretty cafe with a view to a piazza and just daydream.

I did make time to visit some more well known places - including 2 museums, some churches, a market, the Piazza del Duomo, and a fabulous art nouveau exhibit. All were wonderful. I’ll write more about them in the next weeks.

But simply wandering the city, without a specific goal, was one of the best parts of my visit and those are the rather random photos i’m sharing this week.

Lucca in October

October 5th - still warm enough for an outdoor aperitivo. Perhaps the last one of the season?

October in Lucca can feel like an entire season wrapped up in a single month. Or maybe multiple seasons.

Early October brought some relief from summer’s intense heat but was still plenty warm with daytime highs in the 80’s.  Mornings and evenings began to cool off, but it was still warm enough for summer dresses. Perfect weather for an outdoor meal or an evening aperitivo.  

Swing music on an early fall evening. Perfect! Oct 7, 2023

By then end of the first week in October the days were still mild with daylight hours long enough to support outdoor activities in the evenings.  Definitely not yet time to pack away the summer clothes.

Listening to the lovely harmonies of Coro Puntacappo sing a cappella swing music under one of Lucca’s medieval arches - what a great way to spend a pleasant early fall evening.

A beautiful Ottobrata day

In the US this last gasp of summer-like weather would be called “Indian Summer”.  Here in Italy it is known as Ottobrata – a new word for me.  Ottobrata is a time to appreciate those last warm days, outdoor activities, and the final picnics of the season.  I like that new word and I love this season.

By mid-October the temperatures in the mornings and evenings were getting progressively chilly.  It was the “I have no idea how to dress today” season. A light jacket?  Perfect in the morning but way too warm in the afternoons when the temps were still reaching the mid-70’s.  Two changes of clothing per day seemed to be the norm. And it was still too soon to pack away summer shirts.  This in-between season is the ideal time for walks along Lucca’s walls.  The leaves are changing, chestnuts fall to the ground, and the weather is perfect. 

Mid-October along Lucca’s walls

Walking along the walls is wonderful at any time of day, but my favorite time for a stroll is at dusk.  The fall tramonti (sunsets) are glorious!

The end of October brought a big change in the weather and an early arrival of fall rainy season.  We had several days of dramatic thunder booms and some powerful downpours.  Added to that were howling winds which knocked branches small and large from many trees.  Out came the raincoats, boots, and scarfs.  And umbrellas of all colors! 

Now, in these last few days of the month, it still isn’t very cold, with daytime temperatures around 68 degrees. But the days when there is rain and wind feel quite a bit colder then the temperature would suggest.  Luckily breaks in the storms have allowed an opportunity to get outside, avoid a bad case of cabin fever, and see the leaves change color a little more each day.  

Lots of changing leaves during my walk on October 23rd.

Late October is the season to beware of a colpo di aria –  a cold air draft that leads to a stiff neck and other ailments – a cold, a sore throat, earaches or something much worse!  A belief in the colpo di aria is very strong here in Tuscany.  Even the doctors warn to always wear a scarf.  The English speaking people around here jokingly ask “Do you know what happens if you don’t wear a scarf?” The standard answer is “You get a sore throat and then you die”. An exaggeration for sure, but the Italian worry about the effects of the cold air has worn off on many of us. It is definitely scarf season now and also the start of “time to brew some chai, get a good book, and stay inside to avoid the rain” season. 

The tents for Lucca Comics and Games seem to multiply daily in October

October is also la stagione delle tende (tents season) here in Lucca.  Not tents for camping but tents, some of them huge, that pop up all over the city in preparation for Lucca’s big fall event – Lucca Comics and Games.  The tents start to go up at the beginning of October and slowly fill every piazza, the green spaces along the walls, parks, the large open areas just outside the walls, and just about any space where there is room to set one up. 

Costumed participants Comics, October 2019. This week the streets of Lucca will be filled with people in costumes.

Many people love the Comics event and it is important to Lucca’s economy.  The costumes are elaborate, there are special art and gaming venues, and there is a general air of excitement in town. Others of us (I admit to being one of them) dread the arrival of the tents and the huge crowds that we know will follow.  Picture 300,000+ people streaming into the historic center of Lucca over a 5 day period.  For me, this is a good season to head out of town on a short trip. This week I will go to Florence for my comics escape.

Of course, the end of October also brings Halloween.  Halloween is not a big deal in Italy, but is a little more so here in Lucca where it coincides with the beginning of Comics and Games.  Just last week these witch’s brooms appeared overhead in Chiasso Barletti, a small alley of shops. I think this is my favorite Halloween / Comics display ever.

Last week this scary monster was being erected in Piazza San Giusto. While it is meant for the big Comics festival, it feels quite Halloween-ish to me.

Scary !

The clocks have now been turned back an hour and dark falls much earlier.  Summer is definitely over and October, with all of its seasons, is just about over too. I wonder what November will bring?

Uva Fragola

Chianti Classico Wines - mostly Sangiovese grapes

Fall is harvest season in Italy.   First comes the vendemmia, the grape harvest, followed by the raccolta delle olive (olive harvest).  Both have important significance economically and culturally.  Participating in either is a combination of hard work and great fun.

 Many varieties of grapes are grown in Italy and produce excellent wines.  The names are familiar – Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Trebbiano, Lambrusco, Pinot Grigio and Vermentino to name a few.   All of those grapes are cultivated varieties of the Vitis Vinifera species.

And then there is the Uva Fragola (Strawberry Grape). It is a different species all together, the Vitis Labrusca. Not just that, but (gasp!) it is an American grape imported into Italy in part due to its resistance to the Phylloxera insect. This is a bit controversial as some sources say it is that very resistance to Phylloxera which allowed the American grapes to carry the insect to Europe where it devastated less resistant Italian vines.  Which story is true?  I don’t know nearly enough about grapes to offer an opinion.

 What I do know is that the Uva Fragola is not a respected wine grape. In fact, the EU bans it for commercial wine production due to high levels of methane, a poison, that occur in the distillation process.  There may be some home made Fragolino about if you are brave enough to drink it. Despite not being used in wine production, the grape is still grown in Italy where it is appreciated for its unique quality - grape with an underlying strawberry flavor. 

One interesting surprise for me was finding that the Uva Fragola is actually a type of Concord Grape.  Yes, this type of grape is the source of the Welch’s Grape Jam that topped all my peanut butter sandwiches when I was a kid.  A jam I abandoned as I grew up in favor of more interesting flavors.  I have to believe that, like most things (and people) transplanted to Italy, the American Concord Grape was transformed by the Italian soil, air, water, and perhaps even the music of the language.  The Italian Uva Fragola is delicious!

September is Uva Fragola season. The big, plump, purple grapes are used in several ways.

The grapes make wonderful jams and jellies. 

I was fortunate to receive a jar made from last year’s crop, a just-sweet-enough jam filled with bits of grape.  It was nothing like the Welch’s Grape of my childhood.

This was grape jam for grownups!

Another traditional use of the Uva Fragola is in a focaccia dolce, a grape studded bread glazed with sugar. It’s a simple, straightforward snack, perfect alongside a cup of coffee, and a great use for the September grape crop.

My favorite way to consume Uva Fragola is as gelato.  I was happy when a local gelateria advertised their September-only special of Uva Fragola gelato, made using local Tuscan grapes.  With its rich color and berry flavor it is the perfect end of summer treat.  With such a short season, one must take advantage with at least a weekly gelato serving, right?

Uva Fragola grapes grown right here in the historic center of Lucca.

Last week, a friend in Lucca invited me to snip some of the ripe bunches of Uva Fragola grapes that grow along the terrace above his apartment.  I was more than happy to help with his small harvest but wasn’t quite sure what I would do with so many grapes. 

I decided to make a syrup to drizzle over soft cheese, gelato, or perhaps pancakes.  I didn’t have an exact recipe, but used a proportion of grapes to sugar suggested in a jam recipe I found on line. I just didn’t add the pectin that the recipe called for.  In a happy accident, I reduced the grape syrup enough that it thickened into more of a jelly than a syrup even without adding pectin.  Perfect on my morning toast and still good as a topping for cheese.

Here's how I made the jelly:

Remove the Uva Fragola grapes from the stems, rinse them and discard any green ones. Hint: twisting the grapes from the stem instead of pulling them avoids that little bit of stem that can cling to the grape.  Twisting also opens the skin at the top of the grape which helps them soften as they cook.

To 700 grams of grapes add 200 grams (1 cup) of sugar and 3 tablespoons of water in a heavy bottom pot.

Heat the mixture over a low to medium flame, stirring frequently, until the sugar dissolves and the mixture begins to bubble gently.

Reduce the flame to low and cook for 1 hour, stirring and scrapping down the sides of the pot every once in a while.  Be sure the flame is low enough that the mixture doesn’t stick to the bottom of the pot. The kitchen will smell wonderful at this point!

After cooking for one hour, crush the grapes in the pan to release all the juices and then strain to remove the skins, leaving only the juice behind.   A food mill would work here, but I don’t have one so I just crushed the grapes well with a wooden spoon to squeeze out the juices.

Return the juice to the pan, bring to a simmer, and cook on low.  Less time would result in a syrup, 45 minutes and I got jelly.  Isn’t kitchen chemistry fun!   My 700 grams of grapes made one 6 oz jar of jelly.

Exploring Argegno's Back Streets

Argegno’s waterfront. The green building is where the ferries dock.

Don’t you find that “firsts” leave lasting impressions?  First day of school, first love, first taste of olive oil fresh from the press, first home, first big purchase with your own money, first Christmas with a new baby, first bottle of really good wine.  All of these firsts are important milestones in life and treasured memories. 

One of my memorable firsts is the first time I traveled to Italy.  I arrived in 1996 to one of the most beautiful places on earth – Lake Como in northern Italy.   I had no idea that when I first went to the small lake-side town of Argegno that I was embarking on a life-long love affair with a town, a lake, a country, and a way of life. 

I don’t know whether it was the stunning views, the sound of water lapping at the shoreline, the feeling of the wind as I traveled by boat across the lake, the friendly people, or dinners with fish fresh from the lake. Somehow they added up to magic.   Since that first trip I have visited Argegno a number of times and found a little something new to enjoy each time I visit. 

In Argegno, most of the action takes place right along the lakefront.  That’s where the main piazza sits, ringed with cafes, bars, and restaurants. It’s also where to find the morning hotspot - the really good Pasticceria and Caffè (officially called Pasticceria Grandi).  Its old wooden display cabinets, pretty bar, and wonderful aromas, along with a view of the lake, make it the perfect place to begin a day in Argegno. Even the neighborhood cat stops by!

Santissima Trinit Church, Argegno

The lakefront is also where the ferries stop to pick up passengers, carrying them to some of the better known towns along the lake. The wonderful hotel Villa Belvedere sits right at the edge of the lake in Argegno.  So does the local church of Santissima Trinità (The Holy Trinity).  Even the Monday market is set up next to the small harbor that fronts the lake.  All of these things are definitely worth exploring.

 But it would be a shame to stick only to the lakefront because Argegno’s back streets are fascinating. The mostly pedestrian lanes lead to mysterious dark passageways and alleys meandering up into the hills above town.

A wander towards the river Telo, which runs from up in the surrounding hills right into the lake, leads to an ancient stone bridge. Often there is just a trickle of water in this part of the Telo, but after a good rain the river swells and water flows quickly under the bridge. Standing on the bridge gives views of the houses further up along the river as well as views down to where the river meets the lake.

Argegno’s small lanes are filled with worn old doors, pretty flower boxes, and homes built where old mills once stood. 

There is so much to appreciate in the streets where few visitors wander.  Those back streets and steep alleys also provide some spectacular views high over the lake and a quiet escape from the lively Piazza Roma on the lakefront. 

Most visitors spend just a few days at Lake Como, exploring the famous towns of Bellagio, Tremezzo, and Varenna. But a longer stay provides a chance to explore the hidden spots in the smaller villages such as Argegno. Argegno was my first Italian experience, an introduction to a very different life. It still enchants and inspires me.

September in Lucca

September is one of my favorite months in Italy.  It starts out as summer – hot and humid – and then slowly transforms itself into autumn. By late September the mornings and evenings are cool enough that sweaters and scarves make their first appearance of the season. The cooler weather is perfect for a passeggiata, the Italian tradition of an evening stroll, yet still pleasant enough for sitting outdoors at a cafe.  The AC (if one is lucky enough to have it) has been turned off and the windows are open, letting in cool breezes and the hint of fall that is in the air.

Late September skies are beautiful and the weather is pleasant.

 In Lucca, September is a unique month. It even has a special name -  Settembre Lucchese.  It is a month of festivals, artisan markets, concerts, and celebrations. 

This year September kicked off with Murabilia, the annual fall garden show.  Murabilia has everything for the fall garden, from plants to yard art to terracotta pots.  For inside the home there are delicate orchids, fall gourds, and pretty linens.  Artisans demonstrate and sell their crafts and food stands offer local products – meats, cheese, breads, garlic, and flavored syrups.  

September also brings the Palio della Santa Croce. The Palio is has its roots in medieval times as members of the three contrade (districts) in the historic center of Lucca engage in a crossbow competition. The event starts with a procession of musicians, flag throwers, costumes, and the very medieval looking archers.  The procession weaves its way through Lucca, stopping to perform in some of the piazzas, eventually making their way to the area behind the Cathedral of San Martino where this year’s competition took place.

September’s most important event, The Luminaria of Santa Croce, takes place every year on the evening of September 13th.   The luminaria is in honor of Lucca’s most important ancient artifact, the wooden crucifix known as the Volto Santo (Holy Face). 

The legend of the Volto Santo is this: it was crafted by Nicodemus who fell asleep before carving the face.  When he awoke, he found that the face had been miraculously completed. The legend continues with a journey across the sea to the coast of Italy and then a trip by oxcart to Lucca more than 1000 years ago.  Both journeys are considered miracles as, according to the legend, the ship and the oxcart where unmanned and divinely guided to Lucca. The crucifix became a stop on the pilgrim’s route to Rome. It remains a venerated religious object to this day, drawing modern day pilgrims to Lucca. 

The crucifix usually rests in a small chapel within the Cathedral of San Martino where the figure of Christ is dressed in a gold vestments during the festival. This year was a bit different as the crucifix is undergoing restoration.  It has been moved from its small chapel to an area inside the cathedral where it is possible to watch the restoration in progress.   

During the luminaria procession religious and civic groups move through the candlelit streets of Lucca.  The Volto Santo is represented by a cloth image held aloft. Each year there is a large cross made of flowers. Participants hold candles and prayers are chanted along the route. It is a beautiful and moving event with both religious and cultural meaning.

Settembre Lucchese came to a close this year with the Festival of San Michele (St. Michael the Archangel).  A special mass was held in the Basilica of San Michele, one of Lucca’s historic churches.  A concert, on the evening of September 23rd, filled the church with music by the Polifonica Lucchese and the Boccherini Orchestra. The fullness of the music, along with beautiful voices in the setting of a historic church, combined to create a very special evening.

 September is an ideal time to visit Lucca. It is not too early to begin planning for a September 2024 visit !

By the third week of September the temperatures are cool enough for a late morning walk along Lucca’s shady walls.