Lucca In A Few Words

September 02, 2024 by Joanne Bartram in #italy2024, #lucca, Italian culture, Italy, Living in Italy, Lucca

I am often asked to describe what it is about Lucca that I love and why I have chosen it as my base in Italy. Sometimes it is American friends who want the answer but very often it is an Italian, un proprio Lucchese (a true Lucchese), who asks me these questions. They are curious about where I came from and why I moved here. This often leads to a conversation about the joys of living in Lucca. Best of all, these conversations take place in Italian, a language I am still struggling to learn.

Recently I went to a local shop to buy some replacement lampadine (light bulbs) and a lampada (a lamp) for my bedroom. The delightful owner started the conversation – where was I from, how long have I been in Lucca, where in Lucca do I live, and why Lucca. I explained that I come from a big city in the United States, always in the car, lots of chaos and not so safe. Then I used the words I know best to describe why I love it here.

The Torre Guinigi, famously topped with Oak trees, rises up just around the corner from my Lucca apartment.

A glimpse of a church window on an early morning walk is one of Lucca’s delights

I said that Lucca was una città bella (a beautiful city), tranquilla (calm), sicuro (safe), accogliente (welcoming), con musica e arte (with music and art). Also that I loved le strade Medievale (the Medieval streets). He replied with a word that was new to me, but whose meaning was immediately clear, a word that made perfect sense. Lucca, he said, is vivibile.

Vivibile means livable. That is a perfect word to describe Lucca. Building a life here is wonderful because the city is livable. The historic walls are like a big hug (un abbraccio) and also serve as a place to walk, run, bike, and socialize.

Lucca has all the characteristics and charm of a Medieval Italian hill town but without the hills (good for aging knees and hips). The piazzas are filled with churches, statues, and fountains. The many beautiful wooden doors, some ancient and worn others newly painted, often with ironwork atop, are a photographers dream. Balconies are filled with flowers. There are enticing cafes, pasticcerie (pastry shops), and restaurants. Fresh food and good wine are available at reasonable prices. Lucca hosts events that make life more enjoyable – concerts, festivals, art shows, garden shows, opera – year round. All within walking distance! Above all the people of Lucca are amichevole (friendly).

One of Lucca’s many cafes, The Santa Zita, where you can enjoy a coffee or a drink with a view of the mosaic capped church of San Frediano.

I was happy to add this new word – vivibile - to my vocabulary of words that describe Lucca.

Sunday Morning at Lucca’s Antiques Market

July 08, 2024 by Joanne Bartram in #italiansummer, #italy2024, #lucca, Italian culture, Italian markets, Italy, Living in Italy, Lucca

I am trying to imagine how this old wheel barrow would have been used.

The monthly antiques market in Lucca takes place the weekend of the 3rd Sunday of each month. If planning a visit pay careful attention to the calendar - count Sundays, not Saturdays, else you might miss it!

Strolling through the market, which spills across several large piazzas in town, is a once a month ritual for me. The small size of my apartment in Lucca doesn’t allow me to buy much, but I always have fun looking.

Some vendors show up every month with similar wares - glass demijohns, old cameras, silver serving wear, chandeliers, glassware, tea cups, old brass, vintage clothing. But I often find either something new and different or a particularly eye catching object. That’s what keeps the market interesting month after month !

Blue skies and mild temperatures enhance the experience of a market stroll.

At the June market, I was really taken by this vintage brass espresso machine. If only I had room for it in my tiny kitchen.

And this - is it a small Grappa press ? I imagine a home grape producer using it to press his leftover grape skins to make some excellent small batch grappa. A perfect hobby for a grape growing Nonno.

I’ve seen several metal chickens and other animal sculptures over the years, but this is the first cockatoo I have found. At least cockatoo is my best guess for this yellow plumed bird.

I would love to know his story.

The assortment of intriguing objects, and the artful way they are displayed, brings out my camera every time. These are just a few of the interesting finds from the June market.

As an added bonus last month, a brass band, complete with pompom girls, marched straight through the market. They stopped in front of Lucca’s Duomo to entertain a crowd of market goers. Just a little extra fun on market day !

Blue skies over the church of San Giovanni, Lucca

A Spring Weekend in Lucca

May 27, 2024 by Joanne Bartram in #italy2024, #italytravel, #lucca, #medievalitaly, #springintuscany, Italian culture, Italy, Living in Italy, Lucca, Tuscany

It seems as if we waited a long time for spring to arrive this year. Cold and rainy weather lasted well into May. But finally, on the last weekend in May, spring finally showed up. And it is glorious!

The temperatures are mild, the breezes gentle, and the skies are filled with cotton ball clouds with only the smallest hint of rain. The trees are green, the scent of Jasmine fills the air, and pretty flower boxes fill balconies. Is there a better place to spend spring than in Tuscany?

The final days of May also brought two very enjoyable festivals to Lucca.

The first is the Lucca Medievale Festival. The event took place on the mura storiche (historic walls) where a medieval encampment sprang up along one of the large green bulwarks that jut out from the walls.

Throughout the camp craftsmen and women, all in costume, demonstrated medieval crafts. There were woodturners, blacksmiths, and chainmail makers.

Weavers and clothmakers worked alongside pottery artisans and clog makers. Rough beeswax candles were on display as were some ancient (and quite scary) medical instruments. A stone carver worked with small tools to create delicate designs.

Musicians played antique instruments; there was no shortage of medieval weapons. Throughout the weekend-long festival were exhibitions of historic dances, arts, crossbow competitions, and music. Lucca is in so many ways still a medieval town and the festival really brings that era to life. It’s an annual event - now is the time to make plans to visit Lucca next spring!

The second event to enliven the city in late May was the French Market. It is always exciting when this market comes to town. It is only fitting that the market fills Piazza Napoleone, Lucca’s largest piazza. The large open piazza was created during the time when Napoleon’s sister, Elisa Bonaparte Baciocchi, was the Principessa of Lucca. Her impact on Lucca is felt to this day. I think she would approve of hosting a French market in front of her palace!

The market featured typical French products – soaps, perfumes, and table linens as well as French foods. French breads were baked on site. French pastries and French cheeses filled the booths. And the quiches! Quiche Lorraine, goat cheese and tomato, veggie and even salmon quiches warm from the oven were ready to take home for a tasty French themed lunch.

Whenever the French market comes to Lucca, I line up to buy some bastoncini. These breads – much thicker than a breadstick but thinner than a small baguette – are a bit of an addiction for me. Crisp on the outside and soft on the inside, they are studded with olives, walnuts, pancetta, or cheese. Paired with a market quiche and a salad they transport me right back to Provence.

The spring days in Lucca are meant to be enjoyed - a wonderful pause between the cold, rainy season and the advent of hot weather and busy summer activities. Welcome spring!

Out and About in Padova

April 29, 2024 by Joanne Bartram in #italytravel, #italy2024, #padova, #padua, Italy travel, Italy, Padova, Padua

Padova (Padua) is a wonderful, vibrant university town located just 30 minutes by train from Venezia (Venice) and about 4 1/2 hours from my home in Lucca. It’s a wonderful place, full of important churches, art, museums, and historic buildings. It is one of my favorite cities to visit in Italy.

The architecture of Padova has a Byzantine influence.

One of the city’s major attractions, the stunning Scrovegni Chapel, is filled with Giotto frescoes. They are exquisite and beautifully preserved.

The Basilica of Saint Anthony draws worshippers along with those who appreciate art, architecture, history, and Italian culture. They are two of Padova’s major attractions, essential to see on a first visit to the city.

One of the major advantages of living in Lucca is the ability to visit places like Padova easily and often, sometimes just using it as a base for exploring nearby places.

That was the case on my most recent visit, one in which I didn’t (gasp!) visit either the Scrovegni Chapel or the Basilica of Saint Anthony.

Instead, my travel companion and I spent time leisurely walking through town. We popped into lesser-known churches. We visited the market (and drooled over the food choices). We spent time in two of the city’s wonderful parks.

We made a spontaneous stop at a fantastic Monet exhibit in one of the city’s museums. The closest we got to Saint Anthony’s Basilica was sitting in a nearby cafe where we sipped an Aperol Spritz while gazing at the beautiful and unique domes of the church.

Along with a small group of friends, I boarded a boat for a day-long Brenta Canal cruise between Padova and Venezia and a chance to visit 3 historic villas along the way. More detail about that in some future coming posts.

One afternoon, we hopped a train to nearby Vicenza to get a flavor for the city and see a 500+ year old theater designed by Palladio.

For anyone who has not yet been to Padova, a 4 day stay would allow for a visit to the Scrovegni Chapel (advance tickets required) and the Basilica of Saint Anthony, a one day Brenta Canal cruise, and a couple of days to wander the city visiting some of the other historic places, churches, the market, the Prate della Valle park and leisurely strolling around this beautiful and vibrant city.

And don’t forget to try the Venetian style cicchetti ! It makes a wonderful dinner.

The Piazza del Salvatore is a busy hub of activity in Lucca. It’s all too easy to focus on Nottolini’s fountain and the graceful statue of the Naiade on top and miss the church of San Salvatore which sits across the piazza.

The Church of San Salvatore in Lucca

March 18, 2024 by Joanne Bartram in #italy2024, #lucca, #italytravel, #luccafountains, #medievalitaly, Churches Italy, Italian culture, Italy, Living in Italy, Lucca

A painted door in Piazza del Salvatore, Lucca

A couple of days in Lucca last week were rain free – perfect for catching up on errands. My tasks included a stop at the lavandaria (cleaners), a quick visit to a local shop to buy a pretty pot for the chives I’ll grow on a sunny windowsill, a meet up with a friend for a coffee (there may have been a pastry involved), and a trip to the Ortofrutta to stock up on vegetables.

The best part of running errands here is that it never feels like a chore. No drudgery involved. How could there be when the errands are done on foot and all involve a walk through historic Medieval streets? There are ancient stone buildings, centuries old decorative brick work around windows, balconies full of flowers, and beautiful old wooden doors along every route. Add to that the sound of spoken Italian providing a soundtrack to daily life here and chores are fun.

On my errands I stopped into one of Lucca’s small and lesser known (at least to visitors; it’s a favorite of locals) churches. It was empty, silent, and unguarded. I was the only person inside, free to admire the architecture, artwork, and treasures within. To leave such a historic place, filled with valuable artifacts, so accessible would be unheard of in the US. Here in Lucca it is not unusual at all.

The Church of San Salvatore, also known as the Church of the Misericordia, Lucca

The church, officially the Church of San Salvatore in Mustolio, is more commonly known as the Church of the Misericordia because it is located right next to what was for many years the office of the Misericordia Ambulance Service.

A few months ago the ambulance service moved outside of central Lucca, leaving a spot for some benches and flower pots in the space where the ambulances used to sit. The stone wall of the church is now easy to see and the historic carved lintel above the side door more visible.

This new sitting area, once filled with parked ambulances, is now a pretty place to sit facing the piazza along the side of the church.

A church has stood here for over 1000 years**, with major renovations and modifications over time. Some of the most important elements of the current church are the exterior lintels, one over the front right door (below, right) and one over the side door (below, left), that date from the 12th century. Each lintel tells a story from the life of Saint Nicholas. They are beautifully carved, in wonderful shape, and are important examples of decorative elements from that time period.

The interior of the church has a main altar that contains a 14th century wooden crucifix. Two smaller altars are placed along the sides of the small church. One, an ornate sculpted piece, frames a Christ with bound wrists. The other is a depiction of Our Lady of Fatima surrounded by children.

There are several paintings inside the church, including an Ascension from the year 1561 by the local artist Vezzano and another that depicts local favorite Santa Zita in the company of several saints.

I always find the little details in a church fascinating. A memorial marker, a lantern, a holy water font, a small shrine, a simple stature, a bit of faded fresco. This are the things that capture my attention and there are plenty to see in the Church of San Salvatore.

The quiet church provides an oasis of calm. As an added bonus, it sits within the Piazza del Salvatore with Nottolini’s famous fountain topped by the Naiade statue. What a beautiful place to stop in the midst of running errands!

** A huge thanks to The Wanderer’s Guide to Lucca by Brian Lindquist for the history of San Salvatore church. His book, and the accompanying Wanderer’s Map, remain the most valuable English language source for information on the historic churches and buildings in Lucca. It’s a must have for anyone living here or interested in Lucca’s history.