When Italy's Prime Minister Speaks, Would-be Travelers Listen

Things are looking up in Italy. COVID infection rates are falling, with the all important Rt rate last week at 0.81 (this value reflects the number of people who will become infected by one person with the virus). A number below 1.0 is good and means that the rate of spread is decreasing. That doesn’t mean the pandemic is over, or that we should throw caution to the wind, but new infections are down significantly, a hopeful sign.

In the last week of April most of Italy returned to the yellow zone, with the least restrictive measures. Last week Sardinia remained red and 5 regions (mostly in the south) remained orange. As of today, no regions are in the dreaded red zone and only Sardinia and Sicily remain in the orange zone. The rest of Italy is yellow. That’s progress!

The view from the terrace at Lucca Italian School. With the lovely weather, and Italy getting ready to welcome tourists, lessons on the terrace or down in the large garden are once again possible.

With the decrease in restrictions in much of Italy, including Tuscany, life has become a bit more normal. The restaurants, bars, and cafes have dusted off their tables and chairs, put out the umbrellas, and opened for outdoor dining. For the first time in a very long while both daytime and evening meals can be served (though a mandatory 10pm closure remains in place, very early by Italian standards). Movie theaters have reopened at 50% capacity, museums and galleries are also open with controlled numbers admitted. Language schools are able to hold in-person classes. A huge development is the ok to travel outside of one’s community to visit other yellow zone areas.

On June 1st beach clubs can re-open. No doubt the chairs will be a bit further apart than in this photo from Lerici in the summer of 2020.

Is there an aperitivo in your future ? It is once again possible in bars throughout most of Italy.

June 1st will see beach clubs and swimming pools reopen - just in time for summer recreation. Masks are still important, as is hand washing and social distancing. But, to sit in a piazza and share a drink with friends, go to a movie, visit a friend’s home, head to the beach, take a day trip or an out of town vacation - those are things everyone has missed. I hope we never take them for granted! Mask wearing and attention to social distancing seem a small price to pay for the return of these possibilities.

Immunizations, which have progressed very slowly in Italy due to limited supplies, are also picking up. Efforts to increase the supply are on-going and more doses are expected soon. This is further cause for optimism.

Italy’s Prime Minister, Mario Draghi, made big news last week when he declared “Italy is ready to welcome back the world” and “The time has come to book your vacations in Italy” (of course he said it in lovely Italian, making the announcement even sweeter). This is news that many have been waiting for. Italy is heavily dependent on tourism, especially visitors from North America, and their return will go a long way to helping the economy begin to recover.

Early October is a perfect time to visit Lake Como

Rome awaits tourists with the Green Pass

Both Italy and the EU Commission are supporting the relaxation of travel restrictions, both for EU and non-EU visitors. In the most recent proposal, entering Italy will require proof of one of these 3 criteria: fully vaccinated status, documented recovery from previous COVID infection, or a negative COVID test within days of travel. This is referred to as a “green pass”. Those with the green pass will not have to quarantine when entering Italy (or anywhere in the EU). The details aren’t entirely clear, and the procedure for obtaining the green pass has not yet been published. More specifics are expected in the next weeks with travel set to resume as early as later this month in Italy. A slightly later mid-June date was set by the EU commission. These announcements are exciting news for Americans and Canadians who want to visit Italy and for the many part-year residents who have been anxiously awaiting a return to their Italian homes.

But there is also concern - many who live in Italy remember that the arrival of European tourists last summer led to an increase in COVID cases and a new round of restrictions. The hope is that with vaccinated tourists, or those screened for disease, there will not be a repeat of that increase. It will be necessary for all visitors to follow the rules for masking, avoid large gatherings, and to not travel with any signs of illness.

And so … travel planning begins anew. With caution. With immunizations. With joy.

A Winter Without Carnevale

It should be starting this week - the annual late winter celebration of Carnevale. Unfortunately, the on-going COVID crisis has forced cancellation or delay of the festivities, including the two best known events here in Italy - Venice (cancelled) and Viareggio (postponed until fall).

Venice 2020

In the past few years, I’ve experienced both the craziness and political / social mischief of the Viareggio celebration (photos below) and the drama and elegance of the festivities in Venice.

Last year I enjoyed Venice during the opening weekend of Carnevale, just before the first wave of virus arrived in Italy and shut it all down. What an air of excitement! Such a spectacular weekend - from the opening night time water parade with its aerial performers and light shows (below), to the next morning’s parade of boats on the Grand Canal, to all the costumed and masked people in the Piazza San Marco. And - though it seems strange this year - we didn’t worry at all about crowd size and we still found the idea of masks charming (those masks being a huge step up from this year’s standard Covid ones). Carnevale is Venice’s big annual event and this year, without the spectacles, the glamour, the balls and visitors, will have a huge impact - economic, cultural, and psychological.

Last February, I think we all expected that by 2021 things would have returned to normal and we would once again be celebrating Carnevale in the usual way. But - here we are a year later, approaching the season of Lent without Carnevale celebrations to usher it in.

This week I found many of the traditional Carnevale sweets in the pastry shop windows, but that seemed sad knowing that all the events were canceled. Still - I felt it my civic duty to purchase some (any excuse for a sweet, right?)

As I returned home with my Carnevale mask cookies on a cold, rainy, late January day, I soon found myself looking at photos of past Carnevale events. The photos reminded me of the exuberance of Carnevale and all of a sudden the day didn’t seem so dreary. I hope these photos might brighten your winter day too.

And let’s all hope that, by next year, Carnevale will return. I imagine the floats and costumes will seem even more grand after a year’s absence.

San Quirico d'Orcia

The small villages in the Val d’Orcia have much in common.  They sit on hilltops and look out over rolling hills, olive groves, vineyards, and cypress trees. They are often fortified by city walls, the legacy of ancient conflicts. The street plans are mostly Medieval, often with a single main street and a large main piazza ringed with stone and brick buildings. They are filled with churches large and small.

Classic Val d’Orcia scenes, in the village of San Quirico

And the history!  From Etruscan tombs to Roman roads, from Medieval streetscapes to World War II bombs, the history of these villages is rich and fascinating.  That they have so much in common, and yet each village has its own unique character, makes a trip through this area especially wonderful. Think of Monticchiello with its Teatro Povero and stone houses, Montalcino with its famed Brunello wine and steep streets, Bagno Vignoni with its thermal pools, and Pienza - the perfect Renaissance city - with its pretty houses and flowers filled window boxes.

 San Quirico d’Orcia is yet another of the villages found in the Val d’Orcia. Named after a martyred child saint, it lies between Montalcino and Pienza, situated along the ancient Via Francigena, the pilgrim’s route between Canterbury and Rome.  Today, modern pilgrims and adventurous walkers still pass through San Quirico as they follow the ancient path. Other tourists arrive more conventionally by car and stay to enjoy the many things that make this a most pleasant spot.

The ancient wall around San Quirico

Most of the wall surrounding the city remains, with 2 gates providing entrance to the historic center of town and several of the former watchtowers still standing (though now repurposed, some into tall and narrow homes).  The Porta Cappuccini is the old and most historic gate – a lovely way to enter the town.

 The best way to explore San Quirico is to simply wander.  A stroll along the main street, Via Dante Alighieri, takes you both along the route of the Via Francigena and past most of the main sights in town. At one end, just inside the city walls, is the Collegiata Church (12th century) with its interesting shape, three very different entrances, and beautiful bell tower.  

The Collegiata Church (also known as the church of Santi Quirico e Giulitta)

Further down the street is the church of San Francesco, with its famous terracotta della Robbia madonna (moved here from the Chapel of the Vitaleta) and its combination bell and clock tower. In front of the church is the Piazza della Liberta`. This lively square is the center of town and a hub of activity.  It’s a great place to stop for a coffee or a glass of wine and to soak in the atmosphere. 

Piazza della Liberta` and the Church of San Francesco

In this square is also the entry to one of San Quirico’s special spaces – the Horti Leonini, a 16th century garden.  The centerpiece is a statue of Cosimo III di Medici. All around him is classic Italian garden design. 

Stepping back into the Piazza della Liberta`, and continuing down Via Dante Aligheri, are two of my favorite spots.  One, is a hidden courtyard which contains an old well and the pilgrim’s refuge the Ospedale della Scala.  The other, right on the street, is the small church of Santa Maria Assunta, which is over 1000 years old (but no interior photos allowed!)

The old well in front of the Ospedale della Scala

 It’s also fun to wander the small side streets.  On my most recent visit, during the height of the olive harvest, I found an active but very old frantoio (olive press) which was still using old stones to grind the olives.  The friendly staff invited me inside to watch the process.  The smell of the fresh olive oil was delicious!

And on a side street just along the church of San Francesco is the wonderful Trattoria al Vecchio Forno, built on the site of the old town bakery (forno).  I’ve eaten here on previous visits and it’s a place that never fails to please.  My lunch, a honey drizzled sformatino and a pappa al pomodoro, eaten outside in the garden on a warm fall day, was delicious.

 Heading back to Pienza, the Chapel of the Madonna of Vitaleta is visible from the road.  It is well worth the detour to stop and visit this tiny chapel, which is one of the most photographed spots in Tuscany.   The chapel itself is not usually open, but the surrounding vistas are spectacular.  

 San Quirico was the last stop on my trip through the Val d’Orcia.  There are so many other places left to explore, among them the famous wine towns of Montalcino and Montepulciano (which is just outside the Val d’Orcia) and also the gardens at La Foce.  

I guess I’d better start planning a return trip!

Pienza - A Renaissance Jewel of a Town

This frescoed arch tops the entry gate in Pienza. Note the marker saying it was destroyed in 1944 and restored in 1955. Near the end of WW II, an RAF bomb hit Pienza (which was occupied by the German army), destroying buildings on this end of the city and killing 22 residents.

Now that the holidays are over, it is time to return to writing about the Val d’Orcia. Today - the city of Pienza. To really appreciate Pienza, a little history provides important context.

During the 15th and 16th centuries, the Italian Renaissance led Europe out of the Dark Ages. With a fresh look at classical Greek and Roman culture, and a hefty dose of humanistic philosophy, this was a period of great advances in science, art, literature, and economics.

One important figure during this time was Eneo Silvio Piccolomini, born in 1405 in the village of Corsignano near Siena. Eneo Piccolomini grew up to become Pope Pio (Pius) II. A true Renaissance man, he was a poet, historian, humanist, and - something I greatly appreciate - a proponent of urban planning based on Renaissance principles of beauty, proportion, and classical form.

As Pope, Piccolomini decided to restructure Corsignano, transforming it from a Medieval village into the ideal Renaissance city. The newly renamed Pienza (meaning the City of Pius - I guess he wasn’t a modest man) would serve as his summer residence, a respite from the Vatican. Working with the architect Bernardo Rossellino, the new town was designed to maximize the views from its hilltop position above the surrounding valley as well as to create a beautiful and harmonious atmosphere inside the city walls.

Pienza is situated high above the valley, with beautiful views.

Today, the historic center of Pienza remains much as it was during Renaissance times. The central square, Piazza Pio II, is anchored by the duomo (cathedral). A modest size church, it makes a statement with gorgeous painted and arched ceilings and a central nave lined with massive stone pillars. The soaring bell tower guarantees that Pienza can be seen, sitting high on the hill top, from across the valley.

On one side of the church is the Piccolomini Palace, once home to Pope Pio II. This is a beautiful building with an inner courtyard surrounded by an arched loggia. The rear of the palace has 3 levels of terrace overlooking gardens and the valley - it’s a “can’t miss” place for the spectacular views. The palace is open for tours and also has a wonderful small gift shop. Opposite the Piccolomini Palace is a second palace, the Palazzo Vescovile, now a museum. These buildings, along with the duomo, frame three sides of Piazza Pio.

The interior courtyard of the Piccolomini Palace

The final anchor in the piazza is the Palazzo Comunale, a civic building. Small in size, the building has a beautiful loggia complete with historic markers and faded emblems as well as a clock tower. A stop for coffee at the nearby Caffe la Posta, provides an opportunity to sit and imagine this piazza as it must have been in the time of Pope Pio II while simultaneously experiencing a small slice of life in modern day Pienza (and a really good cappuccino).

Clocktower of Palazzo Comunale, Pienza

Pienza is not just a place of history. It is also a vibrant small community and one of the prettiest villages I have ever seen.

There is one main street, Corso Rossellino, lined with shops and cafes, and several smaller, charming side streets. As a plus, Pienza sits atop a flat mesa rather than a steep hill which makes for easy walking. For shoppers, Pienza is a treat. There are several shops selling local products, including its most famous product, Pecorino cheese. Just follow your nose and you can’t miss them!

Pienza is a great place to buy artisanal crafts including art work and ceramics. My favorite shop - the sign at the door says Bai Laboratorio Ceramica (officially it’s called Ceramiche d’Arte Bai Linda) - is a bit off Corso Rossellino at Via Gozzante 33. The shop is built into an Etruscan cave, the beautiful ceramics are made and painted on site (you might even get a glimpse of the artist at work in her studio), and the husband and wife owners are warm and friendly. On the day I visited they were about to host a workshop on-line because the pandemic had cancelled the in-person visit of an American group. At the end of my visit they gave me a painted ceramic magnet, a wonderful souvenir which now sits above my stove and reminds me to plan a return visit ASAP. This is exactly the type of small, local artisan’s shop that I like to support.

Much of the pretty in Pienza comes from the homes found on the smaller streets. They are immaculate townhomes made of stone with pretty wooden doors and ceramic house numbers. There are vines climbing the stone walls and flowers spilling from window boxes, steps, and railings. With such beautiful surroundings, it is easy to imagine living here.

Pienza is one of my favorite places to visit. The village is small but full of life, the surrounding countryside is peaceful and spectacularly gorgeous, the food is wonderful (I can still taste the delicate lemon pasta I had at La Bandita Townhouse), the people are friendly and welcoming, and the artisan workshops delightful. And, just outside of Pienza (a 10 minute drive), is the wonderful Agriturismo Cretaiole, which provides the perfect home base for exploring Pienza and the surrounding areas. Staying there makes any trip magical.

Agriturismo Cretaiole, a wonderful home base for exploring Pienza and the whole of the Val d’Orcia

Christmas in Italy 2020

In the weeks leading up to Christmas, Lucca remained stubbornly in the Orange Zone of Covid restrictions. Shops were open, but restaurants and cafes stayed closed except for “to-go” food and drink. It also meant no trips to nearby cities to marvel at the decorations (how I miss seeing Florence at Christmas).

Via Sant’Andrea, Lucca looking very festive with the Torre Guinigi in the distance

Mild weather and a few days of being in the yellow zone made it possible to enjoy a holiday coffee with a friend

And then, a small Christmas gift. For 4 short days before Christmas, Dec 20 - 23, Tuscany became a yellow zone. Overnight cafes reopened and the piazzas and city streets once again seemed lively. This of course was a mixed blessing. It was a delight to sit in a cafe and sip a cappuccino with a friend, but the temptation to let down one’s guard also became a little more challenging.

With fears that holiday gatherings would lead to an increase in COVID spread, those 4 days came to an end on Christmas Eve as all of Italy was placed back into the red zone - maximum restrictions.

But that did not stop Lucca from displaying holiday spirit. The piazzas and main streets of the historic center are strung with lights, including those wonderful words from Dante pictured in last week’s post.

Piazza Anfiteatro, Lucca. Christmas 2020

Doorways are decorated on homes throughout town. Shop windows are full of holiday treats and Christmas trees have appeared in piazzas.

The always charming Chiasso Barletti is once again the prettiest little alley in town. It’s also one of the best places to buy gifts with its artisan shops (think chocolate, ceramics, jewelry, hats) and Etta’s - the most wonderful English language bookstore.

Even though our holiday get togethers are limited this year (if not discouraged all together) it is still possible to wander the streets, gaze into windows, stroll down red-carpeted alleys filled with little Christmas trees, pop into churches to see the presepe (nativity scenes), and to enjoy the decorated doorways.

San Michele Church, Lucca at Christmas

And because the holiday season here lasts all the way to Epiphany on January 6th, the day when Old Befana arrives with gifts of socks and candy, there is still plenty of time to enjoy the festivities. Buon Feste!