Italian Coffee (Part One)

If you ask an American to name the Italian national drink, they will likely answer “wine”, but they’d be wrong. In Italy, the national drink is coffee - un caffe` - generally meaning an espresso. Coffee wasn’t invented here, but it just may have been the Italians who perfected it. Coffee is an important part of daily life, almost a ritual. Most Italians drink at least 1 cup a day (for breakfast). But it is not uncommon to add a mid-morning, after lunch, mid-afternoon, and even an after dinner or late night cup. There certainly are Italians who don’t drink coffee, but they are a definite minority.

I wasn’t much of a coffee drinker before I started visiting Italy. I grew up with an Irish mother and we drank a lot of tea. The occasional cup of coffee she made generally meant instant Sanka. I was not impressed. Later, as a nurse working night shifts, coffee became a necessity. I brought a thermos of it to work every night. I experimented with drip coffee, percolated coffee, and cold brew concentrate mixed with boiling water. To each I added lots of milk and sugar. I drank it, it helped get me though those night shifts, but I still wasn't a big fan. I didn’t love it.

Italian coffees - a cappuccino (left) and a macchiato (right)

And then I came to Italy. My first Italian coffee was served on the shores of Lake Como during breakfast at a small family run inn. “Cosa prende signora”, asked the server, “un caffe` latte”? I was presented with a pot of freshly brewed espresso and a second pot of steamed milk. Whether it was the fabulous coffee, the beautiful service, the musical sound of the Italian language, or the views of the lake doesn’t really matter. I was hooked. Many things kept me excited about coming back to Italy after that trip and coffee was definitely one of them.

A caffe` latte, hot milk and a shot of espresso - in this version you mix it yourself

Now that I live in Italy, I can indulge my love of Italian coffee on a daily basis. Standing at the bar for a quick morning coffee is the Italian way. It’s practically medicinal and it costs less (around 1.20 Euro) if you stand rather than sit at a table. But for me, sitting at a table in a cafe, snug inside in winter or outdoors with a glorious view of a piazza in warmer weather, is one of the joys of life in Italy. I’ll pay a little more for that joy. It’s one of the things I’ve missed most during the past year when bars and cafes were closed for long stretches of time due to COVID restrictions. Anytime there was a pause in the lockdown you could find me at an outside table in a bar or cafe ordering a coffee. What a joy that the cafes have now reopened!

And what exactly does one order ? Well, certainly not a half-caff, skinny latte! In fact, don’t ask for a “latte” at all as that will get you just a cup of milk.

Italian coffee drinks can be divided into 3 categories: straight coffee, coffees with varying amounts of milk, or coffees with an added punch from alcohol.

In Italy, ask for un caffe` and you will get a shot of espresso in a tiny cup. A caffe` ristretto is even smaller, an espresso brewed with half as much water. A caffe` lungo is brewed with extra water and a caffe` doppia is simply a double shot of espresso (that will get you going!). None of these drinks come with milk. A caffe` Americano is a bit different - rather than varying the amount of water used to brew the espresso, an Americano is a normally brewed shot of espresso with hot water added after brewing.

A cappuccino is a perfect breakfast coffee

Espresso drinks often have milk added, either steamed or as a topping of frothy goodness (the froth is la schiuma) or some of each. For the most milk, order a caffe` latte which has one shot of espresso and lots of milk (more milk than espresso). This is Italian coffee for beginners. My grandchildren, then ages 10 and 13, started each day with one when they visited me. “Nana”, the 10 year old would say, “I’m not awake yet. I need my coffee”.

Caffe` shakerato con latte - my favorite summertime coffee drink. In Lucca the best ones are found at Manon Lescaut in Piazza Cittadella.

A cappuccino is espresso with some streamed milk topped with a layer of schiuma - about equal parts of each - served in a medium size cup. Italians typically only drink cappuccino in the mornings, as milk is considered not compatible with digestion after meals later in the day. Ordering a cappuccino in the afternoon is possible but definitely brands you as a straniero (foreigner).

In summer a cold coffee with milk (a caffe` shakerato con latte) is a treat !

Later in the day, if you aren’t up for a straight espresso, try a caffe` macchiato. This drink is a shot of espresso with just a splash of milk. I’ve found a lot of variation in the preparation of macchiato. Some have just the tiniest spot of milk, others have milk equivalent to about half the volume of the espresso, still others serve the milk on the side. After living here for a couple of years I have acquired a taste for a macchiato - but I had to work at it.

The Ponce Livornese, made with espresso and rum, is a type of caffe` corretto unique to the town of Livorno

Then there is the caffe` corretto, or “corrected” coffee. Mostly served as an after dinner or evening drink, this is espresso laced with a small amount of grappa, sambuca, or rum. It’s a good nighttime choice, as the caffeine and alcohol balance each other and soften that caffeine buzz.

What happens when it is not possible to go out for an espresso drink at a bar or cafe? Good coffee can be brewed at home, but usually does not result in a true espresso as few homes have the needed equipment. One alternative is a machine that uses coffee in a pod (a Nespresso type machine) but it just isn’t the same. A better alternative for home brewed coffee exists - the Moka Express pot - more about that in Italian Coffee Part 2.

Prosciutto and Asparagus Bundles Marcella Style

Marcella Hazan introduced me, and many Americans, to authentic Italian recipes. Her food, and the details she described about Italian cuisine, were part of what first brought me to Italy in search of the flavors and ingredients in her dishes. (For more on her story, here is a link to a post from the summer of 2018: https://www.twopartsitaly.com/blog/2018/8/8/cooking-with-marcella).

On that first trip I marveled at the fresh produce in the markets, the meats, the cheeses, the variety of fresh pasta, and the delicious meals I had in Florence, Venice, and along the shores of Lake Como. And I took notes!

Returning home, I began a journey to recreate all those flavors with the best ingredients I could find, often guided by one of Marcella’s cookbooks. Now that I live most of the year in Italy (something I never even dreamed of back then) I have access to those wonderful ingredients and I enjoy making these recipes even more.

When spring arrives in Italy so does asparagus season. Heading into summer, the markets in Tuscany have gorgeous bright green bundles of asparagus - I try to pick the nice fat ones which I prefer to the more slender stalks.

When the asparagus appears, I know that it is time to make one of my favorite Marcella recipes - Involtini di Asparagi e Prosciutto (originally published in her book More Classic Italian Cooking). The flavors of fresh asparagus, slightly salty prosciutto, fontina cheese and a generous amount of butter combine to make a flavorful dish perfect for a spring or early summer brunch or luncheon.

3 basic ingredients - prosciutto, fontina cheese, fresh asparagus. Just add some butter !

The prosciutto is topped with the asparagus, cheese, and butter before rolling into a tight bundle.

The preparation is easy and involves only 4 ingredients. The asparagus is cooked ever so briefly in boiling water (my non-Marcella shortcut is to wrap the spears in a wet paper towel and microwave for 90 seconds or so) and then flash cooled in cold water. 3 spears are placed across a slice of prosciutto, topped with slices of fontina, dabbed with butter, and rolled up tight.

Another couple of cheese slices are placed on top, with a bit more butter (ok, maybe more than a bit), and baked until the cheese is melted and golden, a quick 15 - 20 minutes. They look beautiful on a platter drizzled with the flavorful pan drippings. For exact measurements, just google “Marcella’s Asparagus Prosciutto Bundles” and the recipe will pop up - or better yet get a copy of the cookbook which is chock full of wonderful recipes.

Ready to bake !

A couple of keys: Medium to large asparagus are best, and that first cooking in boiling water is just until they begin to soften. If overcooked they will get mushy in the oven. It’s also important to use a good quality, soft prosciutto. If the prosciutto is leathery to begin with it will become more so when baked and that’s not good (the same is true if baked too long). In Italy I buy “prosciutto di Parma morbida” (morbida means soft). My Italian butcher tells me that one end of the prosciutto is actually softer than the other, and so that is what he slices for me. Who knew? In the US, I find that Costco actually has a nice, fairly soft, thinly sliced imported prosciutto that works quite well (brand name Citterio). If the slices are small I overlap two for each bundle so that the prosciutto base is wide enough to just let the tips and ends of the asparagus spears stick out.

These involtini make a wonderful brunch / lunch when paired with a poached egg or a salad. For dinner, a side of rice goes nicely.

Grazie Marcella !

Involtini di asparagi e prosciutto - flavorful rolls of prosciutto filled with asparagus and fontina cheese.

Travel to Italy: A 2021 Summer Update

Last summer I wrote about the challenges of air travel due to the impact of COVID. I had just flown from Italy to the US on one of the first post COVID-lockdown summer flights out of Italy. A month after that post I flew back to Italy, my permesso di soggiorno / residency permit making my return not only possible but smooth. I quarantined for two weeks on each end of that trip, which for me was the most difficult aspect of travel. Now, almost one year later, I have just made another international trip, returning to the United States from Italy for a family visit. COVID is still having a major impact on travel, but some things have changed over the past year and so it seems a good time for an update.

In some ways travel is even more complicated than a year ago, mostly because the rules seem to change on a weekly (daily?) basis and because different countries, even within the EU, have different requirements related to entry and testing. The complications mean this will be a pretty long post !

Dulles Airport was still fairly empty in late April. I was shocked when I arrived in Denver to find it crowded, busy, and with open seating in restaurants. Culture shock!

So, what’s new this year for those who want to travel to (or from) Italy? At this point, there may be more questions than answers.

Question #1 Has Italy reopened to tourists?

The answer here is yes, but…. it depends on where (ie, what country) the tourist is coming from. Residents of EU and Schengen Zone countries, along with just a few other places, can fly into Italy with a negative COVID test 48 hours prior to arrival. No quarantine required.

Visitors coming from the United States (along with Canada, Japan and the United Arab Emirates) are welcome, but the rules vary depending on the type of flight on which they arrive. Those arriving on flights designated as “COVID tested” (offered by Delta, American, and Alitalia) do not have to quarantine on arrival in Italy. These flights arrive to select airports in Italy (Rome, Milan, Venice and Naples) and operate on limited schedules. They require PCR testing before flying with proof submitted to the airline and an antigen (rapid) test at the airport on arrival in Italy. Passengers must also fill out a “self-declaration form”. These travelers do not have to quarantine on arrival, a definite plus for short term visitors.

Summer in the Cinque Terre.

The rules are different if arriving on a flight that is not designated as “COVID tested”. In this case, a test 72 hours prior to arrival is required and a 10 day quarantine is a must. The “self-declaration” form must also be submitted on arrival, with contact information about where the quarantine will take place (the traveler may be contacted by Italian authorities during the quarantine period). A repeat COVID test at the end of the quarantine is also required. It is tempting to think that additional testing on arrival, arranged by individual travelers, is equivalent to the testing done on those “COVID tested” flights but it is not and can not be used as a substitute for arrival via one of the specifically designed “COVID tested” flights.

Question #2 Does vaccine status matter?

Well, of course it matters and it is highly recommended that all travelers are fully immunized before heading to Italy, but at this moment vaccine status is not a factor in who can enter Italy or who has to quarantine. This is an evolving issue - the EU is working on a standardized electronic system for proving vaccine status (with information uploaded directly from the agency administering the vaccine) and it is likely that fully vaccinated EU citizens will be able to skip COVID testing prior to travel in the near future (perhaps as early as this week). It is not clear how this will work for those vaccinated outside of the EU. The United States, for example, does not have a national registry of vaccinations and the many different systems for administration (pharmacies, grocery stores, mass vaccination events, etc) do not contribute identifying information to a centralized data base. That makes proving vaccination status a bit tricky. Will my CDC card, which shows my name and birthdate, along with the manufacturer, lot number, and dates of my vaccines, be sufficient? Fingers crossed! It may well be another month or so before this is sorted out.

Buonconvento, a lovely little village.

Question #3 What about travel from Italy to the US?

The first challenge is finding flights, as flight schedules are still not back to normal. Flying directly from Italy (Rome, Milan) to a major US airport, especially on the east coast, is quite easy but getting to smaller cities can be a challenge. When I traveled in April my choice was to either get a flight out of Rome or wait until the airport in Florence reopened (it was completely closed for months). I waited for Florence. My preferred route appeared available when I booked, but by the next day all those flights had been changed (did they ever really exist?) and the new ones required 2 days, 4 flights, and an overnight stay in Washington, D.C. to get from Italy to New Mexico. Staying flexible, and anticipating that these changes would occur, kept me relatively sane throughout the process. Luckily, flights are expected to increase this summer so routes and schedules should improve.

Question # 4 What about testing and quarantine to enter the United States?

Sipping a Lambrusco in Bologna would be wonderful this summer.

The US requires a negative COVID test 72 hours before entry, including for passengers holding American citizenship and returning from vacation travel. Both PCR and antigen (rapid) tests are acceptable; even travelers who are fully vaccinated must be tested. For my recent trip to the US, I had a rapid test at a pharmacy in Italy with results available in 20 minutes. I was able to upload the results to my airline (United) 72 hours before travel. The airline approved this test for entry into the US. So far so good. But … not so fast. My route took me though Germany where the testing requirement was changed a week before I traveled to require a test 48 hours (not 72) before boarding, and was expanded to include passengers just transiting to a connecting flight. To further complicate things, Germany would not accept results written in Italian. Really, wouldn’t you think that a big NEGATIVO was clear? Or that results in any of the EU country languages would be ok? Nope. To get results in English I had to schedule another test at a different lab (cost about $150, which included same day results in English). In Munich, I encountered people who had been refused boarding because their results were more than 48 hours old or not in an acceptable language. These were not suggestions but absolute rules, as was clear when arriving in Germany to a checkpoint staffed with police who carefully checked the COVID results and wanted to see that I had a boarding pass for my connecting flight. (It ooks like the EU has since agreed to accept test results in any of the EU languages, along with English, but it’s not clear if that agreement is being implemented yet). A direct flight from Italy into the US simplifies things immensely - the fewer countries to pass through the better because travelers must meet the requirements of every country through which they transit!
Current CDC guidelines do not require quarantine on return to the US for fully vaccinated persons (ie, more than 2 weeks after the second dose) but do recommend repeat testing 3-5 days after arrival in the US. Persons not fully vaccinated should retest and quarantine for 7 days. Individual states may have different guidelines. The US does not seem to track returning travelers as carefully as does Italy.

Perhaps a fall trip - just in time for chestnut roasting - is in your plans?

Question # 5 The biggest question of all is whether to travel now or wait until things become more clear. That is a question everyone must answer for themselves. It depends a lot on one’s tolerance for risk and ambiguity along with just how desperately in need of Italy they are! Travel insurance, to cover costs of transportation, hotels, activities and illness is always a good idea (but check the fine print to be sure they cover COVID-related issues).

For those who decide to go ahead, I have a few tips :

First, It is essential to check the requirements for every airline and every country that is part of one’s travel itinerary. Information can be found on airline and airport websites as well as government web pages. The US State Department website has up to date US information. The rules change quite frequently, so keep checking! When I looked this week, Germany’s rules were already different from when I traveled a month ago. And Italy’s rules were not the same as Germany’s.

Next, be sure to know what types of COVID tests are acceptable. PCR tests are always good, some countries accept antigen (rapid) tests but may be specific about which brands of test are ok. Very few countries accept self-administered tests (though the US does for returning travelers if the test is video monitored). United Airlines has advertised that they will provide international travelers with self-administered tests to use when returning to the US, but those may not be sufficient to transit through other countries.
Also consider when results will be available from the lab. Many PCR test results take 48 -72 hours to be reported, so coordination with flight times can be a challenge. I was able to get same day PCR results on a Saturday, critical timing since the lab was closed on Sunday and I needed results before they reopened on Monday morning to meet the 48 hour before travel requirement. I was certainly holding my breath until those results arrived late in the day. If I were doing this again I would not fly on a Monday or Tuesday. Scheduling flights later in the week avoids needing to test on a weekend and weekend delays in getting results. Also be aware if results are needed 48 - 72 hours before departure or before arrival. With flight times of 10+ hours this can make a big difference.

I’m happy to be able to visit family and friends in New Mexico, but II sure miss Lucca and these beautiful streets.

A COVID-tested flight or a negative test before travel is not a guarantee against contracting the virus during travel or spreading it during a trip. Being a good guest in Italy means doing everything possible to avoid this by being fully immunized and testing negative before arrival plus using precautions while in Italy (masks, avoiding crowds, quarantine if required and using common sense). It goes without saying that, even with negative test results, anyone who develops last minute symptoms of illness absolutely must not fly.

What’s next ? Much depends on the trends in COVID infections and vaccine rates over the coming weeks and months. If COVID rates go up, restrictions may return. It looks like some combination of vaccine status and/or COVID testing or documentation of recovery from COVID infection will be required to skip the need for quarantine on arrival in Italy as well as other EU countries. The systems for documenting vaccine status are still in development for non-EU citizens. It’s impossible to know exactly what will be required as proof of vaccination - stay tuned!

A good source of info for Italy is the website esteri.it This is the Ministry for Foreign Affairs site, with info in Italian and in English. It has the most current information on travel restrictions and a downloadable copy of the self-declaration form. I will be checking that site carefully before my return flight to Italy in August.

Heaven and Hell in Pietrasanta

Pietrasanta has long been an artistic center in the Versilia (the coastal area of Tuscany).  It is not far from the Carrara marble quarries favored by Michelangelo in the 16th century and by generations of sculptors ever since.  The name itself reflects this history, Pietra = stone and Santa = sacred or holy.  Marble, and the art of sculpture, is the artistic heart of this small town but sculpture is not the only art form to see in Pietrasanta. Art in all of its forms can be found here in museums, churches, galleries, studios, and in the ever-changing outdoor exhibits in piazzas and parks throughout the city. 

How graceful is this outdoor sculpture ?

 My last visit to Pietrasanta was just before the COVID emergency began. Now that Italy is opening up to travel again, it is one of the places I can hardly wait to revisit.  My next visit is sure to include two of my favorite places – The Museo dei Bozzetti and the Church of the Misericordia (officially named the church of Sant’Antonio abate e San Biagio).

One of a group of sculpted nudes who seem to be watching and waiting in the Museo dei Bozzetti

For anyone with an interest in sculpture, the Museo dei Bozzetti is a must see.  Bozzetti are small scale “rough drafts” of sculptures.  The museum includes hundreds of these along with many scale models, displays demonstrating the process of creating sculptures, and stunning full-size works.  Entrance is free, the museum is located just off Pietrasanta’s main square, near the Duomo.   Below are some photos from my pre-COVID visits to the Bozzetti.

My second “must” is a visit to the Church of the Misericordia. This small church is easy to miss, nestled between store fronts on Via Mazzini.  But once seen, it is not easily forgotten.  Here the Colombian artist Fernando Botero, who has lived and worked in Pietrasanta, painted two large panels – The Gates of Paradise and the Gates of the Inferno.  In typical Botero style the figures are large, round, and fleshy (he has been quoted as saying that he doesn’t paint fat people but rather paints volume).  This work is clearly modern (from 1993) and not at all in the style of the ancient frescoes that are usually found in Italian churches.  

Botero’s Paradise

There are vivid colors and even more vivid depictions, especially of the horrors of hell.  Look closely at the details below and you’ll find some recognizable figures.  Mother Teresa resides in heaven, Hitler in hell. Every time I look at these two paintings I discover something new and something thought provoking.  I wonder why the artist placed his own self-portrait in the inferno panel?   More of Botero’s work can be found outdoors in Pietrasanta where his super sized Roman Warrior stands in Matteotti Piazza.

Spending a day in Pietrasanta is a treat. The main square is a wonderful place to sit and have a coffee or an aperitivo, with a view of the old town walls and the Rocca di Sala fortress up the hill. The Duomo is beautiful and peaceful. Artists are often set up around town; watching them work is fun. The artists studios welcome visitors. The outdoor sculptures surprise and delight. All this is easily reachable by train from Lucca or Viareggio. Andiamo!

La Polleria (The Poultry Shop)

Shopping for groceries (fare la spessa in Italian) is one of the great cultural experiences for stranieri (foreigners) living in Italy. Food, and the process of obtaining it, helps to define a culture. And the act of shopping itself provides a language lesson as it requires use of a specialized vocabulary - after all one wouldn’t want to request uva (grapes) when needing uova (eggs) or pesche (peaches) instead of pesce (fish). I look forward to grocery shopping in Lucca with an enthusiasm that I lack when in the United States.

While there are some big grocery stores here (true supermarkets), they are outside of the historic center of the town where I live. I do use one of the small grocery stores inside Lucca’s walls for essentials - pasta, rice, coffee, sugar, etc. But for other items it remains common in Lucca to visit a number of small specialty shops, something I love to do. Two years of living here has made me a bit fussy about foods. I prefer milk from the region of the Maremma, available at a nearby latteria (dairy store). It just tastes better than what I can buy at the grocery store, plus that same latteria sells the nicest cheeses and lovely little slices of frittata and vegetable tartlets. I buy only local olive oil, freshly pressed each fall. I have a couple of favorite meat markets, delis, and vegetable markets. As for bread - well it seems everyone has their favorite panificio (bread bakery). I will gladly walk across town for the best focaccia.

One of my favorite shopping experiences is to venture to the local polleria (poultry shop) where they specialize in the freshest, tastiest chicken. In Lucca that’s the Polleria Volpe on Via San Paolino. In addition to wonderful chicken they also have a variety of other meats and shelves full of pasta, beans, olive oils, and other staples.

Just some of the ready-to-cook meats available at Polleria Volpe

The yellowish color is typical of chicken found in Italy (apologies to my vegetarian friends, but these birds are tasty!)

As someone who was used to purchasing chicken on a white styrofoam tray wrapped in plastic, my first visit to Polleria Volpe was an eye-opener. I did not see what I wanted in the display case, so I asked if they had chicken thighs of the bone-in and skin-on variety. They did, but would need to cut them for me. The macellaio (butcher) then proceeded to remove a large chicken from a huge box full of chickens. Next, out came a big cleaver which she used to expertly removed the thigh / leg quarters from the chickens. Then she separated the thighs from the lower legs with a slightly smaller knife. They way she did it made it look more like an art form, or an ancient weaponry display, then butchering. Along the way she taught me the difference between cosce (which my dictionary said was a thigh but actually means the thigh / leg combination) and anca (hip - meaning just the upper thigh).

As if that weren’t enough, she then asked me “bruciate?”. HUH? Burned? Why would I want my chicken thighs burned? As it turned out, she was asking if I wanted her to singe the bits of remaining feathers, something no American butcher has ever asked me. That process leaves little brown singe marks on the skin and I swear it adds to the flavor once those thighs are roasted. That first visit to the polleria was a valuable cultural, language, and culinary, experience!

Who knew a butcher shop could be this colorful and interesting ?

Over time, I’ve come to know the butchers at Volpe and depend on their recommendations. They were most helpful in picking out a large roasting chicken to do stand-in for a Thanksgiving turkey last year. I was only a bit surprised when the chicken they pulled out for me had both its head and two very, very long legs. Thankfully the butcher removed both before wrapping it up in paper for me to take home. The bird also came with their best wishes for a Happy Thanksgiving, which they called the “American holiday”.

A while back I saw small involtini (little rolled pieces of meat) in their display case. At first I thought they were chicken but they were actually strips of rabbit (coniglio) laid on top of thin strips of lardo (pork fat), rolled up and secured with a toothpick. I was intrigued, but since I had never cooked rabbit I asked the butcher how to prepare it - in the forno (oven) or in a padella (frying pan)? Her recommendation: frying pan with a bit of olive oil and some white wine. I followed those instructions, but first I rolled them in finely chopped herbs (sage and rosemary) along with salt & some garlic. Then I seared them, added the white wine, squeezed in a bit of lemon juice, and let them cook for about 30 minutes. I finished the sauce with a little knob of butter and served the finished involtini over rice. The flavor was heavenly!

Pre-packed chicken wrapped in plastic just can’t compete, either for flavor or for the sheer delight of shopping at the polleria. And trying new dishes, like the rabbit involtini, adds to the fun! I wonder what I’ll find on my next visit ?