Everyday Art in Italy

Italy offers endless opportunities to enjoy art. Here, art is everywhere. Ancient and modern art works fill museums large and small, famous or obscure. Art lives in the great cathedrals and surprises us in small chapels. Sculptures grace many piazzas and small ones fill tiny niches along village streets. Gardens and roadside shrines are decorated with graceful sculpture and artistic fountains.

If the definition of art is expanded to include architecture (as I believe it should be), then Italy truly surrounds us with art in the graceful form of buildings, the curlicue iron work of balconies, the moorish arch of windows, and the decorative brick work along medieval streets. These all help to paint the picture of Italy and fill our senses with artistic beauty.

Sand sculpture - the detail and expression delights, even if only for a short while.

Art or graffiti ? Either way, it certainly captures a certain moment in everyday life in Italy during the pandemic

But there are other, less traditional, forms of art to be found. I think of this as “everyday art”. It changes quickly as street artists and art students, working in paint, chalk, or even sand, lend their decorative talents to city streets, doorways, and just about any surface they can find along buildings and alleyways.

As much as I love the classic pieces to be found in more formal settings, the unexpected works of everyday art really delight me.

A recent form of everyday art found in Lucca graces several of the “garage door” type shutters that are pulled down over the entrances of many businesses. These paintings, done by groups of art students from the Passaglia Institute of Art and by local street artists last summer, are found in the area near the museum dedicated to Puccini in Piazza Cittadella. The series is dedicated to “le donne” (the women) of Puccini’s operas. It’s a fun activity to search these out and determine just which opera they represent. During the day the shops open, the shutters go up, and the paintings disappear. At night, down come the shutters and the works reappear. What fun it is to walk through Lucca early in the morning, before the shops open for the day, and see these works of everyday art.

Another example of everyday art, and one of my favorites, is the street art by Blub. Blub - think of it as the sound of bubbles rising through seawater - paints famous figures from art and history, each in an underwater diving mask. He chooses to remain anonymous, painting in his Florence studio by day and attaching the works under cover of darkness on the outdoor panels (often rusty ones) which enclose gas, electric, and water meters. The painting below, one of my favorites, is just around the corner from my apartment in Lucca. It’s not unusual to see people stop to take a photo !

Blub’s message has been described as “art knows how to swim” but I tend to think of it as saying that when the flood comes, and you are about to drown, put on your diving gear and get a move on.

Blub isn’t the only artist covering utility meter cabinets with his work. On a recent walk through the village of Barga I enjoyed a series of scenes which were also painted on utility boxes.

And this one was found in Lucca’s anfiteatro (the site of the ancient Roman amphitheater). A classic scene on a modern surface.

Street art can also be graffiti painted on the walls of buildings (probably not legal, but still enjoyable) like this one found in Rome in 2019.

It is always a surprise when a new piece of street art appears and each new one makes me smile. Just one more reason that it is delightful to spend time in Italy.

Chalk art in Lucca

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The Pharmacy of Santa Maria Novella in Florence

As I stand at the entrance to the Pharmacy of Santa Maria Novella I have a sudden thought - this must be what heaven smells like. I can hardly wait to go inside!

The official name is Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, in English that translates to the Workshop of Perfumes and Pharmaceuticals of Santa Maria Novella. That is a fairly ordinary name for an extraordinary place.

The pharmacy was established by Dominican friars from the nearby church of Santa Maria Novella during the early 13th century, making it one of the oldest European apothecaries still in operation. Centuries ago the friars cultivated herbs and used them to make herbal medicines, tinctures, and ointments for the monastery. Some of their brews, scented with rose water, herbs, and spices, were designed to fight the plagues that ravaged Florence and to treat a variety of other ailments. The friars became famous for their potions and in the 1600’s they opened their pharmacy to the public.

It has been a long time since the pharmacy was run by monks. Fortunately they left behind both their legacy and the formulas they created. For several generations the pharmacy was owned by a family who honored the traditions left by those long-ago friars. They expanded the business to many countries and gave it an on-line presence (in the US the website is: us.smnovella.com). This year ownership was acquired by an Italian beauty products company, Italmobiliare. Let’s hope they continue the wonderful legacy of those long ago monks.

The pharmacy still operates in its historic location on Via della Scala in what was once the Chapel of San Niccolò. The original chapel was built in thanks for the care given to a local merchant, Dardano Acciaioli, by the friars of the church of Santa Maria Novella. It is no surprise then that a trip to the pharmacy feels a bit like a religious pilgrimage.

Walking down Via della Scala towards number 16, you will know you have arrived when you become aware of that most enticing scent. The outside of the building is unremarkable, so allow the scent to draw you in. The experience begins just inside the doors as you cross the ornate marble floor and pass through the elaborate floral decorations. Just follow that scent!

The experience begins at the entrance to the antique pharmacy

Just off the entry hall is a room that was once the sacristy of the the Chapel of San Niccolò. Adorned with beautiful frescoes from around the year 1400 (below), today this room is part museum and part showroom.

Each subsequent room in the pharmacy evokes the ancient apothecary, provides interesting historical artifacts, and contains elegantly displayed products.

Shop here and you follow in the footsteps of Catherine di Medici, an early patron of the pharmacy. A unique perfume was developed for her, named Acqua della Regina. It was the first perfume to be made with alcohol as a base and it traveled with her to France. The scent is still produced today along with a host of other wonderful scents.

Perhaps Catherine di Medici wore an amulet like this one on display in the pharmacy, filled with a potion to ward off illness.

In addition to perfumes, the other products sold here include elixirs, liquors, soaps, potpourri, lozenges, scented candles, and skin care products. There are also some beautiful accessories for the home. All are manufactured locally using traditional methods.

I visited just before Christmas when the seasonal decorations were fabulous and the gift buying opportunities were endless. Every product was beautifully presented, even a simple package of mints came in an artfully designed tin. The delicate filigree items (candle and potpourri holders) are handmade by a local craftsman. They make lovely Christmas ornaments, with or without potpourri. Each gift comes in a box tied with an elegant ribbon.

The Christmas tree at Santa Maria Novella pharmacy, 2021

Florence is full of churches and museums - a host of “must see” places. The Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella provides a different Florentine experience. It is a feast for the senses and a taste of luxury both ancient and contemporary. It is a unique way to step back into the history of this remarkable Italian city.

No-Fuss Holiday Entertaining

This is a busy time of year! The days between Thanksgiving and the New Year are filled with activities -shopping, decorating, holiday baking, and dinners just for starters. For me, these weeks have also included a couple of out-of-town visitors, two quick trips out of town, and the birthdays of four friends. It has been a happy whirlwind as every week seemed to include a gathering or a short trip.

With all this activity, entertaining can either be a joy or it can cause stress. And stress is no fun! To keep the holidays fun and avoid entertaining burn-out, opting for a no-fuss approach is the way to go. No-fuss means that most of what is served can be purchased or prepared in advance with a minimum of actual cooking. That way, the effort goes into choosing a good mix of items with a variety of tastes and textures, presenting them in a visually appealing way, pouring something festive to drink and then relaxing with the guests. This is just the approach I used for the small gathering that I recently hosted. My no-fuss choice was to create a festive cheese board for an aperitivo celebration. No cooking required!

Here are some ideas for putting together a tasty cheese board.

Herbed goat cheese - tangy, creamy, spicy and store bought

First, choose a variety of cheeses, even better if they are local specialties. For a light cocktail hour, an ideal combination is one soft cheese and one that is medium or hard. For a more substantial appetizer add a third cheese. Since my gathering was a pre-dinner aperitivo, I kept things light with just two cheeses.

I purchased rounds of a creamy herb-crusted goat cheese (2 varieties, chive and red pepper) at the local grocery. They paired well with a wedge of good quality pecorino fresca from one of Lucca’s specialty cheese shops. A bit of jam or honey alongside the pecorino added a bit of flavor complexity.

The twisted shape gives these bread sticks an added visual boost

Next, some type of bread to go with the cheese. Using a variety of shapes, sizes, and forms makes the presentation more interesting.

Crackers are easier than fresh bread as there is no last minute slicing and the crispness holds up well with just about any cheese. For my board I purchased some pretty bread stick twists and two types of crackers.

These marinated green olives are salty and a bit briny, they complement the cheeses nicely.

Now, add in some salty and stronger flavors. Good olives are perfect. Marinated small tomatoes or cornichons work well too. For a more hearty appetizer tray, some flavorful meats are a good addition. Prosciutto or salami would be typical Italian choices.

Next comes fruit. Grapes always go well with cheese. Added bonus - they look great on the platter! Apples or pears would have been another good choice (but grapes don’t require any slicing and can be put out well ahead of time, making them the perfect no-fuss choice). Dried fruit adds additional flavor, color, and texture. Dried apricots worked especially well with the pecorino.

Last, some sweet flavors. In this case I used candied walnuts, the only thing that actually required me to cook (if melting sugar and tossing in the nuts really counts as cooking). The combination of sweet and crunchy was a good contrast to the salty olives and creamy cheese. A small cup of honey to drizzle over the pecorino added another layer of sweet flavor.

Something bubbly to toast with comes next. Prosecco is ideal for an aperitivo and is the perfect choice for any celebration.

Start with a simple cutting board or platter, add a pedestal dish for height, and begin layering foods until you are happy with the presentation.

Once all the foods are chosen, the next consideration is presentation. This is the fun and creative part; a chance to tap into your inner Martha Stewart!

Cutting boards, platters, and trays can all serve as a base for a cheese board. I don’t have a fancy cheese board, but my IKEA wooden cutting board worked just fine as a base for the grapes and cheeses. For some height variation, a small pedestal plate on, or alongside, the cutting board adds a bit of “oomph” to the presentation. Tall breadsticks standing upright in a glass do the same.

Color and texture are also important. Two colors of grapes, one green and one red, colorful herbs topping the goat cheese, and a combination of creamy and firm cheeses is a good start. A halved pomegranate provided color variation, contrasting texture, and served as a space filler on the cheese board. Plus it was a sparkly seasonal fruit. Additional color and texture came from the dried apricots.

Pomegranates are “jewels” that add sparkle to a cheese board

A variety of plates, bowls, and boards can be positioned alongside the main board to expand the spread. No need for everything to match! And no special tableware is needed, just mix and match whatever you have available (though having some good cheese knives is a big help; I borrowed some from a friend). And a pretty table cloth always helps to set the stage.

Ready to serve !

With everything in place I was able to enjoy my guests with no worry about keeping things warm or fussing over serving. All I had to do was pour the Prosecco (and truth be told, a friend volunteered for that job!).

There you have my strategies for no-fuss holiday entertaining. What tricks do you use for stress-free parties at this time of year?

With New Year’s Eve right around the corner, another no-fuss cheese board just may be in my future.

Happy New Year! Buon Anno !

Buon Natale from Two Parts Italy

Wishing all of you the merriest of holidays, wherever you may be.

Buon Natale !

Firenze at Christmas: Lights, Sparkle, Magic

It is hard not to compare Christmas this year with last year’s holiday in Italy. Hands down, this year wins! In 2020 the holiday came with increased COVID restrictions which prevented travel between cities. That meant no trip to Firenze (Florence) to marvel at the Christmas decorations (a small thing in light of the more serious issues associated with the pandemic, but still, one more small loss). A little bit of sparkle would have been most welcome at the end of last year!

As of mid-December 2021 no such restrictions on travel are in place. Firenze is aglow and welcoming visitors. There are precautions in place, including a requirement to wear masks outdoors in the main piazzas during certain times (I actually witnessed local police enforcing this rule). And while there were definitely crowds when I visited in early December, by Florentine standards they were fairly modest. Best of all, Firenze at Christmas is as magical as ever!

By day there is un sacco (a whole lot) of things to see and do. I started my day in Firenze with a lunchtime stroll through the Mercato di Natale. The market sits in front of the church of Santa Croce and brings a blend of Italian and German holiday celebrations to the city. After a year’s absence, the 2021 market marked a return to tradition. Plus I enjoyed a German flavored lunch from one of the many stalls.

Many hours can be spent along the streets of Firenze peeking into shops filled with Christmas goods, seeing the elaborately decorated shop windows, and enjoying all the greenery that frames the doorways of shops, cafes, and hotels. (Some of my favorites below)

There are many other things to see during the day - the stunning terra cotta nativity in front of the Duomo, the nearby Christmas tree made even more beautiful by the back drop of the marble clad cathedral, happy kids riding the carousel in Piazza della Repubblica. In Firenze, Christmas is everywhere.

Life size terracotta figures make a simple but beautiful nativity scene outside of the Duomo. Note that there is no infant Jesus yet - he arrives Christmas Eve.

For a time out, I recommend a stop at Caffè Gilli for a pot of tea and a little dolce (sweet). Gilli has an old world elegance and provides the perfect setting to sit, catch your breath, and appreciate the Italian Christmas spirit. An added bonus is that the cafe offers a view of the carousel in Piazza della Repubblica and also has one of the best windows in town, full of whimsical Christmas chocolate creations.

As wonderful as the city is by day, it is at night that the magic really happens.

Once the sun goes down the streets sparkle with lights. A walk down Via dei Servi, from Piazza SS Annunziata toward the glowing lantern atop the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore (the Duomo), is a breathtaking sight.

Another not-to-be missed sight is a nighttime view of the ever-changing display on the facade of the Rinascente department store in Piazza della Repubblica.

For intense sparkle, head to the area around the intersection of Via Tornabuoni and Via degli Strozzi and prepare to be amazed.

The lights here are intertwined with gold and silver ornaments. They dazzle and seem to fill the sky. It is impossible to stand here and not smile.

I was in Firenze the night of the tree lighting, which meant there were some special celebrations. Drummers and flag bearers in medieval costume and a brass band attended the ceremony. Afterwards, a train load of Santas arrived and then wandered through town throughout the evening, delighting adults and children alike.

I love Firenze any time of year. But at Christmas, and especially this year, it made the perfect holiday excursion. Grazie Firenze!