A Tuscan Grape Mystery

4 generations ago, around the year 1950, Pietro Beconcini began to work land he had purchased near the city of San Miniato in Tuscany. His land was located along the ancient Via Francigena, the route pilgrims, from England, France, and Spain traveled to reach Rome. The importance of these passing pilgrims was likely not known to Beconcini at the time, but 4 generations later this has proved to be an important and most interesting fact. It has also contributed to a mystery.

The land Beconcini purchased was used to raise crops and animals. It also had some very old grape vines which were tended along with other crops.

Later generations of the family moved away from tending crops and instead turned their attention to those grapevines. Today the Pietro Beconcini Vineyard, now run by Leonardo Beconcini and Eva Bellagamba, produces several grape varieties and some very, very good wine.

Ah - but there is that mystery. A bit of a twist.

Some of those very old vines, at least 100 years old and perhaps as much as 900 years old, looked a bit strange. Unlike the other more typical vines of Sangiovese grapes grown throughout Tuscany, this vine was a mystery. They called the vines “X” for unknown.

Fast forward to modern viticulture and the ability to identify the genetic origins of grapes. It turns out these grape vines are actually Tempranillo. Tempranillo? Isn’t that a Spanish grape?

Let’s back up to those pilgrims walking the Via Francigena. Many came through Spain along the Santiago di Compostola. Those pilgrims likely carried grape seeds (not cuttings which would have been too hard to transport) some of which ended up in this very vineyard. The exact way that happened is unknown. Did clerics tending vineyards in the area plant them? Were they used in trade? Did some unlucky pilgrim spill them? This remains a mystery. But the production in the modern day Beconcini vineyard is now 30% Tempranillo. The Tempranillo grapes have of course changed a bit over time due to evolution and the unique terroir of this region which is rich in fossils and minerals.

I visited the Agricola Pietro Beconcini last week, along with a group of friends, for an afternoon of wine tasting. Definitely a family operation, Leonardo and Eva welcomed us, provided some of the history I have recounted here, and poured some of their wines. We tasted 3 wines made from Tempranillo grapes - a rosé and two 100% Tempranillo wines, the iXe and the Vigna Le Nicchie. The later comes from the oldest vines, those very hardy 100+ year old ones, vines that survived phylloxera. The flavors are a bit different than a Spanish Tempranillo, both due to the terroir here and to the way in which they are produced (less time in wood barrels, beginning fermentation in cement vats). Not being anything close to a wine expert, I would find it hard to describe the difference - perhaps a bit lighter, less intense than a Spanish wine. Both were good, the Vigna Le Nicchie was outstanding. Picture me carting home a bottle and wishing I could carry a case.

We also tasted a wine that was a 50/50 Sangiovese Malvasia blend (Maurleo) and one that was 100% Sangiovese (Reciso). The Recisco is the winery’s signature Sangiovese wine, the one that best represents the vines and their methods of production. Both were wonderful and a significant number of bottles accompanied our group back to Lucca. With this much wine tasting we were quite happy that we had arranged a driver to transport us to and from the winery!

We arrived back to Lucca happy with our day of wine tasting and pleased to have learned about the mystery and delight of Tuscan Tempranillo. We are looking forward to the Tempranillo Festival in San Miniato which takes place the first weekend in September. Ci vediamo lì ! (see you there)

Lucca in Bloom

April was quite cool and rainy this year; it seemed that spring would never arrive. Perhaps that long wait for spring has made May, with its lengthening days and beautiful weather, even more welcome. Right now the temperatures are perfect - just warm enough mornings, sunny warm afternoons, perfectly comfortable evenings. There are soft breezes and plenty of opportunities to stop and enjoy the feel of the sun on one’s face. Cool weather clothes have been packed away (finally!) and the midday sun gives a hint of the hot summer weather that is just around the corner. This is the in-between season, and it is one of the best times of year to be in Tuscany.

These roses can be found in the large park just behind the Church of San Francesco.

The magnolia blooms are long gone, the wisteria have mostly faded, and there are no poppies inside the historic center of the city (though they are a marvel out in the countryside). But that does not mean there is a shortage of color in town because in May Lucca erupts in roses and they are glorious.

This multi-colored rose garden is up on the walls that surround the historic center of Lucca.

I wish I could add a link that would share scent, because the roses fill the air with a soft, delicate perfume. This seems especially true for the banks of pink roses just outside Porta San Pietro, the main entrance into the city. Visitors to Lucca often enter this porta on their way from the train station into the city. And what a good first impression this makes!

Fragrant pink roses at Porta San Pietro. And why is there always a truck that “photo bombs” a good picture?

It’s impossible to walk past without stopping to appreciate the various shades of pink, the wonderful scent, the buzzing bees.

Not to be outdone by the pink roses just outside Porta San Pietro, these red ones are just inside the porta.

One of my favorite rose-filled places is the rose garden in the series of three small gardens in the chiostro (cloister) beside the Church of San Francesco. With an old well in the middle of the garden, and banks of roses fanning out in all directions, this is a delightful and well tended formal garden.

What a joy it is to walk through Lucca on a warm spring day and find these beautiful blooms.

Street side roses on Corso Garibaldi

Spring in Pietrasanta: Art, Philosophy, and Giraffes

Pietrasanta has everything a small town in Italy should have - beautiful scenery, a lively main piazza, historic buildings and statues, a lovely church, cafes, and good food. And art. It is the art that draws me back time after time.

One of many whimsical giraffes that can be seen throughout Pietrasanta this month.

Visiting is easy as it is just an hour-long train ride from my home in Lucca. Unless of course, as in my most recent visit, there is an interruption on the tracks, train delays, an extra change of trains, a track in a tiny station with no signage, and you hop on the wrong train and have to double back. But don’t let that discourage you! My friend and I laughed it off and eventually arrived to spend a lovely day in Pietrasanta.

Famous as a center of sculpture (the marble quarries of Carrara are nearby), the town has permanent outdoor installations of bronze and marble sculptures, from smaller pieces to Botero’s massive bronze warrior (below).

In addition to these permanent works, Pietrasanta hosts temporary exhibits which fill the main piazza and nearby spaces (as well as some indoor spots) with an ever-changing display of works by contemporary artists.

The current exhibit, in place until June 5th, features the artistry of Sandro Gorra. Gorra’s background is in commercial art where he worked as an illustrator and creative director for advertising campaigns. That was his work. Today, he concentrates on his art which includes sculpture, illustrations, and a sort of philosophical short poetry which accompanies his works. And then there are his giraffes.

Gorra says that this piece, made from 4 tons of marble, is one of his favorites. A loving mother giraffe tending to her baby.

Why giraffes? According to a published interview with Gorra, the giraffes serve as a parable, representing man’s desire for superiority. A giraffe towers above, looking down on everyone. Each one is unique in his spotted form.

This begs the question - without those spots, what would the giraffe be? Anonymous! Naked!

Change - a predictable part of life - in progress.

Change is inevitable and the spots on Gorra’s giraffes do indeed change. They fade away, they fall off, new ones appear. In fact, during my visit, two men, one looking suspiciously like the artist himself (or was that just my imagination?) were busy painting new spots on two of the giraffes. This would be consistent with Gorra’s view that change is to be expected and that irony is a part of the human (and giraffe) condition.

Alongside the works of art are illustrated phrases, providing an intriguing look into the artist’s mind and bits of his philosophy. I enjoyed these sprigs of wisdom just as much as the sculptures. Both made me smile, both made me think. Isn’t that the best part of art?

Here are some examples (any mistakes in translation are entirely my fault).

Don’t erase it, it is not a stain. It is your sign.

Ideas are always around, but if you don’t notice them they go away

And my favorite one of all - it just may become my personal mantra:

Everyone should read at least one giraffe a day.

A day in Pietrasanta is always a joy. Sipping a cafe in the Piazza del Duomo. Strolling through the piazza and the Chiostro di Sant’Agostino. A quick visit to the beautiful Duomo. Wandering the side streets. A quick stop at the Misericordia Chapel to see Botero’s Heaven and Hell frescoes. A relaxed lunch at a favorite spot. Add in Gorra’s giraffes and the day is just perfect!

The Irises of Florence

If it is spring in Tuscany, there will be irises. This is especially true in Florence where native varieties have existed dating all the way back to the Etruscan era and where they grow wild along the river Arno.

An iris and a lily look very much alike, with subtle differences in the leaves and the number of stamens. It is the fleur-di-lis, in the form of a red lily (or is it really meant to be an iris?) on a white background, that is emblematic of the city of Florence. However it is actually the look-alike iris that is much loved by Florentines.

Each spring, for 3 short weeks, the Giardino dell’Iris (Iris Garden) in Florence, in existence since 1957, opens for an amazing floral display. A seemingly endless variety of irises, from all over the world, are planted within the walls of the garden which lies just off Piazzale Michelangelo, up above the city.

The color palette delights the eye with pure white, deep purple, yellow, orange, blue, rust colored, and multicolored varieties in waves of color across the garden. All are gorgeous, but the multicolored ones are especially wonderful. One color that is missing - a true red as in Florence’s red fleur-di-lis. I’ve heard that a special prize awaits the person who can cultivate such an iris.

A small marsh-like pond, added in 1967, lies in a shady part of the garden. Water varieties of iris, growing quite tall, thrive there.

The setting, with its many olive trees and stone walls, is enchanting. Add in a few rose bushes, some grasses, rustic wooden fences, and views of Florence in the distance. The setting for the garden could not be more perfect. This was especially so on a mild spring morning under clear blue Florentine skies. Sharing the beauty with good friends made it even more special.

Adding to the enjoyment on the day I visited was a group of young school children in the garden. They came with sketch pads and colored pencils and were busy drawing the beautiful irises. What an experience in history, art, science, and beauty for these budding artists! There were also grown-up artists throughout the garden, with easels set up and paintbrushes in hand.

After visiting the garden there was ample opportunity to admire the views of Florence, and the remains of the ancient city wall, from Piazzale Michelangelo. A downhill walk through the rose garden on the other side of Piazzale Michelangelo brought us back into the city just in time for lunch.

After nearly 4 years in Italy, I still pinch myself over these small outings. What a gift to be able to hop on a train for Florence and spend a spring morning admiring her irises.

The garden is open, free of charge, from 10 am to 6 pm April 25 - May 20th in 2022. Next year’s dates will depend on the weather and the iris blooms!

Villa Torrigiani di Camigliano

For wealthy and prominent citizens of Lucca in the 16th and 17th century, having a villa outside of the city was both a summer getaway to the cool, fresh air of the hills and a status symbol. The villas were set in farmland, olive groves, or amid grape vines and were often surrounded by lovely gardens. Luckily for us, many of those historic villas still exist, are open to visitors, and are just a short distance from Lucca. A perfect day excursion.

The worker’s cottages are in Borgo Parigi, just outside the villa’s gates.

One such place is the Villa Torrigiani in the tiny village of Camigliano, in the commune of Capannori, about 6 miles from Lucca. The villa is framed by stone walls with large gates. The approach brings you slowly closer to the villa on a path that cuts through open fields. When I visited in mid-April, the fields were full of vibrant yellow buttercups and small purple flowers.

Close to the villa’s gates lies the small, picturesque Borgo Parigi which at one time housed the estate’s workers. After passing through the stone buildings of Borgo Parigi it is on to the villa itself, just across the road.

The “new” facade, from the 1600’s, was much more ornate than the original one

Villa Torrigiani sits in a park-like setting, surrounded by reflecting pools, broad lawns, trees, water features, and manicured gardens. The history of the villa is fascinating. The summer home of Lucca’s Buonvisi family in the 1500’s, it had a simple facade and was surrounded by vegetable gardens. When the Buonvisi fortunes changed (because the King of France failed to repay them money he owed) the villa had to be sold. Enter Marquis Nicolao Santini, the Ambassador from Lucca (at that time Lucca was an independent republic) to Versailles and the court of Louis XIV. Santini purchased the Villa in 1636 and began to rework the more simple Italian villa into a French style building and garden - a smaller version of Versailles. The facade was changed to the more elaborate style that we see today, complete with the columns, statues, arches, and a variety of colors.

This staircase leads down to the lower level garden and it hides a surprise - a narrow grotto passage full of mythical creatures. Don’t be afraid to enter!

The Marquis Santini also banished the vegetable gardens in favor of elegant reflecting pools surrounded by flower gardens and avenues of cypress trees. A stunning tiered staircase leading from the foot of a long pool down to a sunken garden, complete with a nymphaeum (the Ninfeo di Venti, middle photo below) at one end and a hidden grotto passage at the other, were also added. To create that French feel in the garden, the Marquis employed André Le Nötre, one of the designers of Versailles.

The villa landscape has continued to undergo changes, the biggest being a change in the 18th century to a more English style garden. Out went the flower beds around the reflecting pools and in came broad lawns, imported trees (including Magnolias, Cedars, and Camellias), and a wooded area. At some point the vineyards behind the house were also removed (though the old wine cellar remains).

The villa itself is also interesting. The ground floor is open for tours (arranged at the ticket booth just inside the entry gates). The tour guides provide wonderful historical perspective, plus with much of the information I’ve recounted here, along with family history of the occupants from the earliest Marquis to the present day owners. The glimpse inside the house is a chance to admire the still vibrant ceiling frescoes (look for camellias, a symbol of the family), the trompe l’oeil wall decorations, and many other artifacts on display.

The rear loggia of the Villa Torrigiani and the meeting place for tours of the home.

The villa is large but once past the ornate facade it has a very human scale. Perhaps that is because it remains to this day the summer home of descendants of the Santini-Torrigiani family. Family photos are scattered throughout, original fabrics adorn the beds, the dining table is set, there is even a dress worn by a previous occupant (1920’s style) on display in her bedroom. It is easy to imagine sitting on the back loggia with a book and a cup of tea, enjoying the birdsong, the breeze, and the history. Because this is still a family home (the family quarters are upstairs, tucked away from the visitors downstairs) photography is not permitted inside the villa. It was a challenge to keep my camera in my pocket and not to dash up the stairs to see the upper floors!

Just as it did for Lucca’s historic families, a visit to a villa outside of town provides a countryside experience different from that of the walled city. There are 6 historic villas to visit close to Lucca, Villa Torrigiani is a good place to start.

The villa is open from March through November. 10am - 1pm and 2:30 pm - 6 pm. Note that they may close earlier in bad weather.

Contact Info: Villa Torrigiani del Camigliano. Via del Gomberaio 3, Camigliano email: villacamigliano@gmail.com phone: +39 0583 928041 tickets available on site, 8€ for the garden only, 15€ garden plus villa

The family chapel on the grounds of the Villa Torrigiani