Taking Tea

While visiting, and now living most of the year in, Italy I have learned to appreciate good coffee – a foamy morning cappuccino, a fragrant afternoon macchiato.  I have even learned to drink a straight espresso on occasion, providing it is laced with plenty of sugar.  

A breakfast tea in Florence at the hotel Morandi alla Crocetta

But, thanks to an Irish mother and grandmother, I was raised on tea. They firmly believed that there was no problem in life that was too big to be solved over a cup of tea, especially when served with sugar, milk, and a side of something sweet.

 They left a lasting legacy - I still love a good cup of hot tea.  It is the way I begin every morning.  When I travel I love to find a hotel with a good morning breakfast tea service. It starts the day off right. 

But “taking tea” is so much more than just a way to start the day.  Tea is an event! One thing to remember - it is nearly criminal to order tea without something sweet to go along with it because, as a British transplant to Lucca once told me, “without some cake your tea is just too wet”.   Words of wisdom!

While Italy does not have as much of a tea tradition as some places, there are several spots where, in addition to great coffee, pots of tea are served along with a pastry or a slice of cake. One such spot is Cafe Manon Lescaut in Piazza Cittadella. When my British friend Judy came to visit she was delighted with the afternoon tea there (pictured below).

These days one of my favorite places to take tea in Lucca is the H&G Coffee Lounge.  Don’t let the name fool you, it isn’t all about the coffee.  At H&G they also brew lovely pots of tea and describe tea as a “perfectly codified ritual”.  The loose leaf tea comes in a stoneware vessel alongside a little timer so that the brewing time is just right.  And they have a selection of tasty cakes to go with.  Best of all tea is served in a pretty room with comfy chairs and quiet music.  Unlike the Italian habit of quickly downing a coffee, here you can linger with your pot of tea. Sitting at H&G on a rainy afternoon, with a good book to read and a hot cup of tea, is a joy.

 One of my favorite things to do when I travel is to find a place, simple or elegant, to have tea.  I’ve taken tea in various US, Canadian, and European cities. Below are photos of some of my favorites. Top row: Lauduree in Paris (left and middle), Cassandras Cup Tea Room, near Jane Austen’s cottage in Chawton, England (right). Bottom row: Gilli Cafe in Florence, souvenirs from The Empress in Victoria, Canada, and (bottom right) the very elegant tea room at the Four Seasons Gresham Palace in Budapest. Each place had its own character and charm.

One of my all-time favorite teas was on board a Viking Ocean Cruise.  The ship had a bright and welcoming tea room that served a daily high tea.  Taking tea in their beautiful tea salon definitely made me feel spoiled! I could have gone every afternoon on the cruise, but oh the calories!

  When I return to Albuquerque to visit my family you can bet I will spend one afternoon at the Saint James Tea Room. They serve a high tea complete with savories, scones, lemon curd, and sweets.  The Saint James ranks right up there with the best tea rooms in Europe. The setting, with cozy alcoves, beautiful china, and a sweet gift shop, is part of the fun.

I am trying to introduce my granddaughters to the concept of tea.  I started with a simple home tea party a few years ago - complete with hats and Oreos. Tea manners were definitely in the infancy stage.

They’ve now graduated to the Saint James.  Let’s just say that dressing up for tea, using soft voices, and appropriate tea conversation is still a work in progress.  This was tea with giggles.

Do you have as favorite tea spot?  I’d love to see photos on the Two Parts Italy facebook page!

Tea and a Marionberry scone on the coast of Oregon

Pontremoli: A Walk, A Castle, and Prehistoric Rock Carvings

The Lunigiana region reaches from the northern part of Tuscany into Liguria, all the way to the coast. It is a unique area, quite different from the classic images of Italy. No grand cathedrals, huge museums, or rolling vineyards here. The region is mountainous, forested, and crossed by rivers. There are no large cities to be found, instead there are small medieval hamlets, many with ancient towers and castles. Some of the castles lie in ruins, complete or partial, but a few are remarkably well preserved.

Castello del Piagnaro, Pontremoli

One such castle is the Castello del Piagnaro in the town of Pontremoli. The castle dates from the 10th century, with cycles of expansion, destruction, and rebuilding over the ensuing centuries. Some components of the Castello have been lost to time, a drawbridge for example, and some elements are as new as the 15th century tower (if something that old can really be called new).

Today the restored castle compound stands guard high above Pontremoli and welcomes visitors to both the castle interior and the Museum of the Stele Statues of the Lunigiana which is housed within its ancient walls.

Half the joy of seeing the castle is the walk to it from the historic center of Pontremoli. The walk begins from the small main street and winds up even smaller alleys to the castle. Along the way are small shops, medieval buildings, arches, gates, views, and the occasional cat.

This sign marks a steep little alley that leads to the castle.

The walk winds uphill, but it is not terribly steep. For a less inspiring, but less strenuous, way to the castle take the elevator from Porta Parma at the north end of town directly to the castle grounds. I found the hike up to be definitely worth the effort. With stops along the way to admire the ancient buildings, chat with local residents, and enjoy the views to the town below it was a walk I would not have missed!

There is a ticket office just inside the castle gates where a combined ticket for the museum and castle can be purchased for 7 euro (4 euro for those over 65). From the ticket office you can enter the museum directly or cross to the castle entrance.

The museum is fascinating. Stele (not to be confused with the similar Italian word stelle which has a different meaning all together) are prehistoric carvings, representing human figures, found throughout the Lunigiana region. They have been housed in the castle museum since 1975 and are truly a treasure.

Both male and female figures are represented. The males seem to be warriors, armed with knives. The women, bare breasted, are adorned with necklaces. The dark rooms and dramatic lighting show the pieces off perfectly.

After the stele, it is time to wander through the castle. And I do mean wander - there are many rooms, courtyards, staircases, and roof top terraces to explore. Amazingly, there were no guards or “keep out” signs to be found, just freedom to explore and to wonder what life must have been like for the people who occupied this building over the centuries.

Perched high up on this hill, the castle offers spectacular views down the hill to the city and river below. Walking back down to the village, along a different small alley than on the way up, provides for another scenic walk through the oldest portions of Pontremoli.

A visit to Pontremoli, and a hike up to the castle, provides a wonderful contrast to the more touristed places in Tuscany and Liguria. It’s a special experience!

Paris in Winter Part Two: A Left Bank Neighborhood Walk

One of the best things to do in Paris is to simply wander the neighborhoods, each of which has its own unique atmosphere and history.  And while there are museums, churches, galleries, and famous sights to see in each neighborhood, there is also joy to be found in skipping all of those in favor of a slow amble, basically aimless, just to get a feel for an area.  And that is pretty much what I did on a day of wandering in Paris.

One of the many bridges across the Seine. This one connects the Île de la Cité with the Latin Quarter on the Left Bank.

On a visit of just a few days there are hard choices to be made. It simply isn’t possible to see all of Paris’s fascinating neighborhoods in a day or two.  On this trip the focus was the Left Bank – the Latin Quarter, St. Germain des Pres, and the area around Rue Cler.

 My day of wandering the Left Bank started near Notre Dame, crossing the Pont au Double to arrive on the Left Bank.   

At the end of the bridge lie the Bouquinistes, the iconic green stalls that line this part of the Seine. They are full of antique books, posters, and souvenirs.  Browsing these stalls feels like time travel, with magazine covers from many years ago and lots of old posters.  A stop at the Bouquinistes is an essential part of any Parisian experience.  

 From the Bouquinistes it is a short walk to Shakespeare and Company, the English language bookstore that has been in this location since 1951.  The shop began at an earlier location in 1919 with a pause only during WWII.  It is a Paris institution, attracting locals and visitors alike. I love the green of the building and matching green of the interesting fountain just in front. Imagine all the famous writers, and all the English language readers, who have passed through those doors! 

From there, a walk through the Latin Quarter evokes the spirit of an older Paris, before the renovations that brought wide boulevards and blocks of stately homes to other parts of the city. There are small cobblestoned alleys filled with cafes and bars, many host students from the nearby Sorbonne. There are markets, shops, and restaurants to be found along the winding streets.  

Passing by the churches and museums, we just strolled, soaking up the atmosphere of a unique neighborhood, visiting a Christmas market, peeking in windows, and stopping for lunch at a small cafe.

 After lunch, more walking. 

At the edge of the Latin Quarter, before entering the St. Germain des Prés district, the wide boulevards reappear near the Place Saint-Michel with its imposing monument. 

Build in 1860, the monument features a sculpture of Saint Michael the Archangel standing triumphantly over the devil.  Below, a fountain with water cascading down several steps to the level of the plaza.  On the day I visited, in mid-December, there was a wonderful Christmas market filling the square.

St. Germain des Prés, view to the magnificent altar

Next up, the St. Germain des Prés neighborhood.  This is a wonderful area to explore with its high-end shops, markets, galleries, and antique stores. This is where the Luxembourg gardens and Le Bon Marche department store are located.  St. Germain des Prés is also home to famous cafes such as Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore, once the haunts of writers and artists. Sip a coffee or a glass of wine outside under the awning and imagine Hemingway or Picasso sitting beside you. But not on this trip - it was much too cold to sit outside!

 The neighborhood gets its name from the Abbey of St. Germain des Prés.  The Abbey is more than 1000 years old.  The exterior is wonderful – with flying buttresses and a medieval bell tower.  And though my goal was to just wander, I couldn’t resist a chance to stop in to the abbey.  The interior seems to be several different churches in one due to many modifications over the years.  The long nave is flanked with arched columns and topped with a blue, star-filled ceiling.   There are sculptures and frescoes, colorful stained-glass windows, a beautiful choir space, side chapels, and candles flickering.  And, on this very cold day, there were grates in the floor blowing warm air into the church.  No surprise, visitors seemed to linger atop those grates!  

 We left the cathedral as the afternoon light was waning and the temperatures falling, the perfect time to hop on the batobus and return to the our hotel, just off Rue Cler. Rue Cler is in the 7th Arrondissement, where the Eiffel Tower is located. 

I love to stay in this part of Paris when I visit for many reasons – seeing the Eiffel tower all lit up at night as I walk through the neighborhood, the fabulous restaurants, cafes, and shops that line Rue Cler and the surrounding streets, the small and charming Hotel Champs du Mars, the graceful architecture of the buildings, and the walkability of the neighborhood. 

 Rue Cler itself is a pedestrian-mostly market street.  There are stalls and shops selling fresh produce and take-away meals, gorgeous French cheeses in all shapes and sizes, flowers, meats, fish, chocolates, pastries, crepes, ethnic foods.  There are also small cafes and restaurants perfect for a morning croissant or a meal.

 Nearby are streets full of elegant apartments with pretty balconies, small churches, shops, and fabulous restaurants.  And, just a short walk away, is the Eiffel Tower, the wonderful park that surrounds it, and a stop for the Batobus on the river. 

 It’s hard to talk about Paris without mentioning the food.  We ate most breakfasts and dinners in the Rue Cler neighborhood.  As we were celebrating my friend’s birthday, we decided to splurge on dinner at the classic restaurant La Fontaine de Mars on nearby Rue Saint-Dominique, between Rue Cler and the Eiffel Tower.  Definitely worth the splurge, everything was wonderful from the red and white checkered table cloths, to the friendly waiters, to a great wine selection, and fabulous food.  My dish of scallops on a bed of leeks with a butter vanilla sauce was spectacular. This was a birthday celebration to remember!   We also found a great wine bistro nearby, La Campanella Brasserie.  Best French Onion Soup ever!

 I am not sure when I will get back to Paris again but I definitely want to plan a return trip. I need a chance to explore the Right Bank neighborhoods. And I definitely need another bowl of onion soup!

Paris in Winter (Part One)

Paris in winter.  Yes, it is cold.  Very cold!  A bit gray.  Sometimes misty and rainy.  But still - it’s Paris and less crowded than in peak season.  And, as the saying goes, Paris is always a good idea! With that in mind, I recently packed my warmest coat, gloves, scarf, hat, even my winter-silk long underwear. Then I grabbed a friend and jumped on a flight from Florence to Paris for a long weekend of fun, French style.

Walking across some of Paris’s ornate bridges was definitely on my must-do list. Here, the view towards the Eiffel Tower from the Pont Alexandre III

With only 3 full days, and a goal to mostly just soak up being in Paris and visit the Christmas markets, my travel companion and I had a short “must-do” list. 

We began each day over a breakfast of croissants or baguettes with jam, along with hot cups of café crème, at one of the cafes near our hotel. Not a bad way to warm up before heading into the brisk air of wintertime Paris.

 A good way to start a visit to Paris is with a boat trip along the Seine on the Batobus.  Not to be confused with the narrated tours and tourist dinners on the Bateau Mouche, the Batobus really is a floating bus with stops near all the major sights in central Paris.  The circuit begins near the Eiffel Tower and stops near the Invalides, Musée d’Orsay, Saint-Germain des Près, the Jardin des Plantes, the Hotel de Ville, Notre Dame, the Louvre, and the Place de la Concorde.   It is a hop-on, hop-off service and an easy way to get around.  Along the route you pass by stunning architecture, famous monuments, houseboats, working boats, and under Paris’s many beautiful bridges.  Doing the full circuit late on a winter afternoon, as the lights slowly come on along the Seine, is a special experience.   And since the temperatures were brutally cold in December, hoping on the warm Batobus allows for views of Paris from the warmth of the boat. 

First stop, the Tuileries Garden.  Created as a private garden by Catherine de’Medici in the 1500’s, today it is an inviting public space.  With its central location, Grade Allée promenade, trees, fountains, benches, and views of the Louvre Palace, it is the place Parisians come to meet friends, stroll, picnic, entertain their children, and paint.  It is also where the huge Ferris wheel, providing views high above the city, is currently located. 

One of many intriguing sculptures in the Tuileries Garden

There were no spring flowers or children’s boats in the round basin of the Tuileries on that cold winter morning.  And yet the park was an still an elegant green space filled with sculptures and long views.  It was a lively spot too – the chairs and benches filled with people despite the chill and the sights, sounds, and delicious scents of the large nearby Christmas market. 

 From the Tuileries Garden it is an easy walk to the Musée d’Orsay, the only museum on our must-do this trip. 

The building itself, a train station in 1900’s Beaux-Arts style, is a marvel.  How amazing it must have been to arrive in Paris to that gorgeous station.  Today, it hosts large numbers of visitors and from the upper stories gives one of my favorite Paris views - looking through the giant clocks out towards the Tuileries Garden.

 The galleries display many different art forms -  sculpture, painting, furniture, photographs.  It is a lot to take in, so we concentrated on the ground floor sculptures and the incomparable collection of Impressionist paintings.   I am always most drawn to the Monet’s, but the rest of the collection, including works by Renoir, Manet, Pissarro, Van Gogh, Cassatt, Degas, are equally fascinating.  

Below are a few of my favorite Impressionist works (left to right, Country Dance by Renoir, Degas’s Little Dancer, and Field of Poppies by Monet). Enchanting works!

 A visit to Notre Dame was another must. 

Since the horrific fire it is not possible to enter the church or even approach the front doors. The damage to the roof and spire is heartbreaking.  The area surrounding the cathedral is fenced off but along the fence a series of illustrations tell the story of the reconstruction efforts. 

The fence is low enough to allow a good look at what is still a beautiful cathedral and to pick out the gargoyles that still stand watch. 

 One of the best things to do in Paris is to simply wander the neighborhoods.  More about that next week. For now, I leave you with the the best ways to warm up when you think you’ve gotten frostbite from taking your gloves off to use your camera. A stop into a little cafe for a chocolate chaud, a bowl of onion soup, or a glass of good red wine will do the trick.

Inspiration from an Italian Spice Market: Chai

Does anything taste better on a cold winter afternoon than a cup of chai? Hot, peppery, spicy, sweet, milky - it is the perfect winter warm up. Brewed Chai is not a typical offering in Italy, and the available Chai tea bags just don’t approach the taste of the real thing. There was only one solution, I needed to learn to brew it myself !

A trip to an outdoor holiday market in December gave me just the inspiration I needed to work on my chai brewing skills. A big basket of star anise and another of tiny cubes of candied ginger first caught my eye. There were also displays of cinnamon sticks, whole black peppercorns, cloves, and cardamom pods. It was impossible to see all of these spices and not think of chai!

I have experimented with several different ways of brewing chai. I’ve used whole, ground, and crushed spices. I’ve tried making batches of spice mix ahead of time to keep on hand. In the end I have found that the easiest method, and the one that achieves the flavor I crave, is to brew individual small batches of chai using whole spices, pieces of crystallized ginger, and a good strong base of black tea. Whole milk is perfect for chai, though 2% works pretty well too. There are lots of possibilities for sweeteners - I tend to use stevia.

The brewed chai will keep in the refrigerator for a few days, just reheat as needed.

The recipe is flexible. Like more pepper? Just increase the amount to taste. More cinnamon? Throw in another stick. Don’t like cloves? They can be eliminated all together. No cardamom on hand? It will still taste great without it. The ginger, cinnamon, and some black pepper are essentials though. And a good, strong black tea. And while I have tried powdered spices, they just don’t work as well.

As I write this I have a batch brewing and my apartment is filled with the wonderful aroma of chai spices.

Simple Chai Recipe (makes 3 cups)

In a saucepan, cover 3 black tea bags (or an equivalent amount of loose black tea) with 3 cups of boiling water.

Add the following:

3 cinnamon sticks

1 ounce of crystallized ginger, either thin flakes or cut into small bits (note: ginger varies a lot in intensity - this is a starting point, adjust to taste)

3/4 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

12 whole cloves

15 cardamom pods, cracked

4 whole star anise pods

Steep over lowest flame x 45 minutes and then strain to remove the whole spices.

Add sweetener and milk to taste (4 ounces of milk is about right)

Bring to a simmer and enjoy!

A hot cup of chai provides inspiration for writing too!