And The Travel Gods Laughed and Laughed

After 7 weeks away, I am finally back in Italy.  I feel fortunate to have the best of two worlds - being able to spend weeks of time with family and friends in New Mexico and then returning to my home in Lucca for most of the year.  The only real drawback to this divided existence is the necessity for international travel.  Travel used to be fun, didn’t it?  Jumping on a plane and flying off to an adventure felt joyful.  But these days, well, the shine is mostly off the travel experience for me.  Now, airports and airplanes are simply a means to an end. 

This carousel is always one of the first stops I make on my return to Lucca

 Now that all the pandemic restrictions and testing requirements have ended it should be easier, right?  No more covid swabs 24 hours before a flight, no green pass needed, even vaccines are optional (though very important).  And yet, air travel hasn’t quite returned to normal (whatever normal is).  With strikes common in Europe, shortages of baggage handlers, reduced numbers of flights, and US system meltdowns, it all feels like a roll of the dice. 

 Silly me, I was actually looking forward to my return flights from Albuquerque to Florence. I booked way ahead, and because February flights are generally not full, I was able to find an inexpensive business class (or, as I think of it, Princess Class) fare for my return flights.  What a treat! I was anticipating smooth, pampered flying on the way back to Italy. 

 And that’s when the travel Gods began to laugh.   I had an early morning flight out of Albuquerque.  Up at 4 am, I was greeted by an unusually heavy snowfall.  Shoveling a path to the car at 5:30 am was not in my travel day plans!  Luckily my friends arrived to pick me up, I rolled my luggage down my newly shoveled path, and arrived at the airport in plenty of time.  I should have paid attention to those travel Gods tittering in the background.

A typical Lucchese window within an ancient brick wall with its window box full of flowers. Just one reason to love Lucca.

The flight was delayed a bit, and required deicing, but no worries as my layover in Houston was long.  I thought the travel Gods had had their fun and that they were done with me. Not a chance. I will skip the details and just sum up the rest of my travels.  2 hour delay out of Houston waiting on “mechanical clearance paperwork”.  The delay was prolonged when, just as we put our seatbelts on and were ready to roll, a passenger demanded to be let off the plane!  Did you know that when that happens the airline must search for the passenger’s checked luggage and remove it from the flight?  Shocking that a person would force a planeload of people to endure a further delay because she was upset that her rebooked connection was in – gasp – economy class!  She simply could not tolerate that and so off the plane she went.  Another 45 minutes of delay. 

I will say that the United flight crew was fantastic on that flight. They were just as frustrated as the rest of us about the delays, but they didn’t let that stop them from being gracious and helpful. Of course, the long delay meant a missed connection and longer layover in Munich.  Booked on a later flight into Florence, I finally arrived, but, and you can anticipate this next bit, my luggage did not. Thankfully my airtag let me know exactly where the bags were and allowed me to track them until they arrived in Florence. The next day and a half was spent in my apartment waiting for the luggage to be delivered.  They never say in advance when the courier will arrive but if you are not home, well, back to Florence goes the luggage.  And so I waited.

The small piazza of the Booksellers, Lucca

 All I really wanted to do my first days back in Lucca was to get out and walk through town.  I had favorite places to see, changes to find, signs of spring to search for, and the need to just reconnect with all the beauty of this city.  Sitting at home was definitely not what I had planned.  The travel Gods seemed to still be laughing at me! Don’t get me wrong - I am immensely grateful for a safe arrival and know that the frustration of this flight is a minor inconvenience in the greater scheme of things. But still … waiting for that luggage to come was torture.

But then the luggage was delivered and I was free to roam about Lucca.  And what did I find on my initial wanderings?   The weather is still cold and the trees mostly bare but starkly beautiful.  The first fuzzy buds are out on the magnolia trees on Corso Garibaldi, a sure sign that spring is coming. 

The magnolias are budding!

How I will miss these fun windows at Chocolat, now sadly closed.

My favorite little sweet shop in Chiasso Barletti, Chocolat, has sadly closed. Where will I find the little chocolate Easter chickens that I buy each spring?  I’ve heard that the owners will soon open another shop in that location, hopefully continuing their tradition of ever changing fun window displays.

The Santa Zita Café has moved just across Piazza San Frediano.  I can’t wait to go inside for a morning coffee or an evening aperitivo. 

Carnevale events are still going on, the evidence found in colorful confetti on the streets and costumed ball goers last Saturday evening. 

Most of all Lucca still presents all the things I most love – the sound of Italian spoken in the streets, colorful window boxes, medieval streetscapes, the tall Torre Guinigi just around the corner from me, ancient brickwork, street musicians, the stalls of the booksellers, the monthly Antiques Market.   Add in the friends I’ve made here and the warm, gracious Italians that fill the city and I instantly feel at home.  It’s good to be back.

February, A Month That Isn't Spring

February, just 28 days long, is the shortest month of the year. Why then does it feel so long?  So very uninspiring? It’s not that I hate winter.  I enjoy brisk winter temperatures, the chilly beauty of winter holidays, and snow dusted trees. Paris in December was cold but wonderful, a recent quick trip to Colorado with its snow covered mountain peaks was fun, and I have had some wonderful winter experiences in Italy over the years.  But come the last weeks of February I grow tired of gray skies, cold air, and wintertime. 

February in Lucca, 2019. Cold and definitely not spring.

These little blossoms are the first hints of spring along Lucca’s walls.

As I write this, I am watching snow fall in New Mexico. The clouds obscure the mountains, it’s cold and gray. Spring, and Italy, seem very far away. But it is only three days until I board a plane and head back to Italy. I am hoping that the earliest signs of spring will be present when I arrive - delicate bulbs and tiny flowers sprouting along the walls and the earliest magnolia blossoms. I am even looking forward to the colorful umbrellas that accompany spring rains.   

I will spend the next few days dreaming about soft Italian breezes, spring blooms, lengthening days, and walks on Lucca’s walls. In the meantime, these photos will remind me that Spring is just around the corner and that warmer weather and Italy await.   

Camellias in Sant’Andrea di Compito in March 2019. The annual Camellia Festival is a sure sign of Spring!

Taking Tea

While visiting, and now living most of the year in, Italy I have learned to appreciate good coffee – a foamy morning cappuccino, a fragrant afternoon macchiato.  I have even learned to drink a straight espresso on occasion, providing it is laced with plenty of sugar.  

A breakfast tea in Florence at the hotel Morandi alla Crocetta

But, thanks to an Irish mother and grandmother, I was raised on tea. They firmly believed that there was no problem in life that was too big to be solved over a cup of tea, especially when served with sugar, milk, and a side of something sweet.

 They left a lasting legacy - I still love a good cup of hot tea.  It is the way I begin every morning.  When I travel I love to find a hotel with a good morning breakfast tea service. It starts the day off right. 

But “taking tea” is so much more than just a way to start the day.  Tea is an event! One thing to remember - it is nearly criminal to order tea without something sweet to go along with it because, as a British transplant to Lucca once told me, “without some cake your tea is just too wet”.   Words of wisdom!

While Italy does not have as much of a tea tradition as some places, there are several spots where, in addition to great coffee, pots of tea are served along with a pastry or a slice of cake. One such spot is Cafe Manon Lescaut in Piazza Cittadella. When my British friend Judy came to visit she was delighted with the afternoon tea there (pictured below).

These days one of my favorite places to take tea in Lucca is the H&G Coffee Lounge.  Don’t let the name fool you, it isn’t all about the coffee.  At H&G they also brew lovely pots of tea and describe tea as a “perfectly codified ritual”.  The loose leaf tea comes in a stoneware vessel alongside a little timer so that the brewing time is just right.  And they have a selection of tasty cakes to go with.  Best of all tea is served in a pretty room with comfy chairs and quiet music.  Unlike the Italian habit of quickly downing a coffee, here you can linger with your pot of tea. Sitting at H&G on a rainy afternoon, with a good book to read and a hot cup of tea, is a joy.

 One of my favorite things to do when I travel is to find a place, simple or elegant, to have tea.  I’ve taken tea in various US, Canadian, and European cities. Below are photos of some of my favorites. Top row: Lauduree in Paris (left and middle), Cassandras Cup Tea Room, near Jane Austen’s cottage in Chawton, England (right). Bottom row: Gilli Cafe in Florence, souvenirs from The Empress in Victoria, Canada, and (bottom right) the very elegant tea room at the Four Seasons Gresham Palace in Budapest. Each place had its own character and charm.

One of my all-time favorite teas was on board a Viking Ocean Cruise.  The ship had a bright and welcoming tea room that served a daily high tea.  Taking tea in their beautiful tea salon definitely made me feel spoiled! I could have gone every afternoon on the cruise, but oh the calories!

  When I return to Albuquerque to visit my family you can bet I will spend one afternoon at the Saint James Tea Room. They serve a high tea complete with savories, scones, lemon curd, and sweets.  The Saint James ranks right up there with the best tea rooms in Europe. The setting, with cozy alcoves, beautiful china, and a sweet gift shop, is part of the fun.

I am trying to introduce my granddaughters to the concept of tea.  I started with a simple home tea party a few years ago - complete with hats and Oreos. Tea manners were definitely in the infancy stage.

They’ve now graduated to the Saint James.  Let’s just say that dressing up for tea, using soft voices, and appropriate tea conversation is still a work in progress.  This was tea with giggles.

Do you have as favorite tea spot?  I’d love to see photos on the Two Parts Italy facebook page!

Tea and a Marionberry scone on the coast of Oregon

Pontremoli: A Walk, A Castle, and Prehistoric Rock Carvings

The Lunigiana region reaches from the northern part of Tuscany into Liguria, all the way to the coast. It is a unique area, quite different from the classic images of Italy. No grand cathedrals, huge museums, or rolling vineyards here. The region is mountainous, forested, and crossed by rivers. There are no large cities to be found, instead there are small medieval hamlets, many with ancient towers and castles. Some of the castles lie in ruins, complete or partial, but a few are remarkably well preserved.

Castello del Piagnaro, Pontremoli

One such castle is the Castello del Piagnaro in the town of Pontremoli. The castle dates from the 10th century, with cycles of expansion, destruction, and rebuilding over the ensuing centuries. Some components of the Castello have been lost to time, a drawbridge for example, and some elements are as new as the 15th century tower (if something that old can really be called new).

Today the restored castle compound stands guard high above Pontremoli and welcomes visitors to both the castle interior and the Museum of the Stele Statues of the Lunigiana which is housed within its ancient walls.

Half the joy of seeing the castle is the walk to it from the historic center of Pontremoli. The walk begins from the small main street and winds up even smaller alleys to the castle. Along the way are small shops, medieval buildings, arches, gates, views, and the occasional cat.

This sign marks a steep little alley that leads to the castle.

The walk winds uphill, but it is not terribly steep. For a less inspiring, but less strenuous, way to the castle take the elevator from Porta Parma at the north end of town directly to the castle grounds. I found the hike up to be definitely worth the effort. With stops along the way to admire the ancient buildings, chat with local residents, and enjoy the views to the town below it was a walk I would not have missed!

There is a ticket office just inside the castle gates where a combined ticket for the museum and castle can be purchased for 7 euro (4 euro for those over 65). From the ticket office you can enter the museum directly or cross to the castle entrance.

The museum is fascinating. Stele (not to be confused with the similar Italian word stelle which has a different meaning all together) are prehistoric carvings, representing human figures, found throughout the Lunigiana region. They have been housed in the castle museum since 1975 and are truly a treasure.

Both male and female figures are represented. The males seem to be warriors, armed with knives. The women, bare breasted, are adorned with necklaces. The dark rooms and dramatic lighting show the pieces off perfectly.

After the stele, it is time to wander through the castle. And I do mean wander - there are many rooms, courtyards, staircases, and roof top terraces to explore. Amazingly, there were no guards or “keep out” signs to be found, just freedom to explore and to wonder what life must have been like for the people who occupied this building over the centuries.

Perched high up on this hill, the castle offers spectacular views down the hill to the city and river below. Walking back down to the village, along a different small alley than on the way up, provides for another scenic walk through the oldest portions of Pontremoli.

A visit to Pontremoli, and a hike up to the castle, provides a wonderful contrast to the more touristed places in Tuscany and Liguria. It’s a special experience!

Paris in Winter Part Two: A Left Bank Neighborhood Walk

One of the best things to do in Paris is to simply wander the neighborhoods, each of which has its own unique atmosphere and history.  And while there are museums, churches, galleries, and famous sights to see in each neighborhood, there is also joy to be found in skipping all of those in favor of a slow amble, basically aimless, just to get a feel for an area.  And that is pretty much what I did on a day of wandering in Paris.

One of the many bridges across the Seine. This one connects the Île de la Cité with the Latin Quarter on the Left Bank.

On a visit of just a few days there are hard choices to be made. It simply isn’t possible to see all of Paris’s fascinating neighborhoods in a day or two.  On this trip the focus was the Left Bank – the Latin Quarter, St. Germain des Pres, and the area around Rue Cler.

 My day of wandering the Left Bank started near Notre Dame, crossing the Pont au Double to arrive on the Left Bank.   

At the end of the bridge lie the Bouquinistes, the iconic green stalls that line this part of the Seine. They are full of antique books, posters, and souvenirs.  Browsing these stalls feels like time travel, with magazine covers from many years ago and lots of old posters.  A stop at the Bouquinistes is an essential part of any Parisian experience.  

 From the Bouquinistes it is a short walk to Shakespeare and Company, the English language bookstore that has been in this location since 1951.  The shop began at an earlier location in 1919 with a pause only during WWII.  It is a Paris institution, attracting locals and visitors alike. I love the green of the building and matching green of the interesting fountain just in front. Imagine all the famous writers, and all the English language readers, who have passed through those doors! 

From there, a walk through the Latin Quarter evokes the spirit of an older Paris, before the renovations that brought wide boulevards and blocks of stately homes to other parts of the city. There are small cobblestoned alleys filled with cafes and bars, many host students from the nearby Sorbonne. There are markets, shops, and restaurants to be found along the winding streets.  

Passing by the churches and museums, we just strolled, soaking up the atmosphere of a unique neighborhood, visiting a Christmas market, peeking in windows, and stopping for lunch at a small cafe.

 After lunch, more walking. 

At the edge of the Latin Quarter, before entering the St. Germain des Prés district, the wide boulevards reappear near the Place Saint-Michel with its imposing monument. 

Build in 1860, the monument features a sculpture of Saint Michael the Archangel standing triumphantly over the devil.  Below, a fountain with water cascading down several steps to the level of the plaza.  On the day I visited, in mid-December, there was a wonderful Christmas market filling the square.

St. Germain des Prés, view to the magnificent altar

Next up, the St. Germain des Prés neighborhood.  This is a wonderful area to explore with its high-end shops, markets, galleries, and antique stores. This is where the Luxembourg gardens and Le Bon Marche department store are located.  St. Germain des Prés is also home to famous cafes such as Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore, once the haunts of writers and artists. Sip a coffee or a glass of wine outside under the awning and imagine Hemingway or Picasso sitting beside you. But not on this trip - it was much too cold to sit outside!

 The neighborhood gets its name from the Abbey of St. Germain des Prés.  The Abbey is more than 1000 years old.  The exterior is wonderful – with flying buttresses and a medieval bell tower.  And though my goal was to just wander, I couldn’t resist a chance to stop in to the abbey.  The interior seems to be several different churches in one due to many modifications over the years.  The long nave is flanked with arched columns and topped with a blue, star-filled ceiling.   There are sculptures and frescoes, colorful stained-glass windows, a beautiful choir space, side chapels, and candles flickering.  And, on this very cold day, there were grates in the floor blowing warm air into the church.  No surprise, visitors seemed to linger atop those grates!  

 We left the cathedral as the afternoon light was waning and the temperatures falling, the perfect time to hop on the batobus and return to the our hotel, just off Rue Cler. Rue Cler is in the 7th Arrondissement, where the Eiffel Tower is located. 

I love to stay in this part of Paris when I visit for many reasons – seeing the Eiffel tower all lit up at night as I walk through the neighborhood, the fabulous restaurants, cafes, and shops that line Rue Cler and the surrounding streets, the small and charming Hotel Champs du Mars, the graceful architecture of the buildings, and the walkability of the neighborhood. 

 Rue Cler itself is a pedestrian-mostly market street.  There are stalls and shops selling fresh produce and take-away meals, gorgeous French cheeses in all shapes and sizes, flowers, meats, fish, chocolates, pastries, crepes, ethnic foods.  There are also small cafes and restaurants perfect for a morning croissant or a meal.

 Nearby are streets full of elegant apartments with pretty balconies, small churches, shops, and fabulous restaurants.  And, just a short walk away, is the Eiffel Tower, the wonderful park that surrounds it, and a stop for the Batobus on the river. 

 It’s hard to talk about Paris without mentioning the food.  We ate most breakfasts and dinners in the Rue Cler neighborhood.  As we were celebrating my friend’s birthday, we decided to splurge on dinner at the classic restaurant La Fontaine de Mars on nearby Rue Saint-Dominique, between Rue Cler and the Eiffel Tower.  Definitely worth the splurge, everything was wonderful from the red and white checkered table cloths, to the friendly waiters, to a great wine selection, and fabulous food.  My dish of scallops on a bed of leeks with a butter vanilla sauce was spectacular. This was a birthday celebration to remember!   We also found a great wine bistro nearby, La Campanella Brasserie.  Best French Onion Soup ever!

 I am not sure when I will get back to Paris again but I definitely want to plan a return trip. I need a chance to explore the Right Bank neighborhoods. And I definitely need another bowl of onion soup!