Varenna and Villa Monastero

A busy August day in Varenna

There is a lot to love about the town of Varenna on Lake Como’s eastern shore.  Smaller and less glamorous than nearby Bellagio, Varenna still has echoes of the simple fishing village it once was.  Quieter than some of the mid-lake towns, it is less crowded, has spectacular scenery and offers lots of opportunities to explore history, art, and nature. 

 Don’t get me wrong, there are still tourists here (especially in July and August) and the stretch of town along the small harbor can get busy.  But the crowds disappear just a few steps away from the harbor and after the last ferry leaves!

 I think of Varenna as having 3 parts.  To the north end of town, well above the lakefront, is the train station.  The ability to arrive by train is one of Varenna’s advantages, especially for those staying in town.  Most visitors arrive via ferry from one of the other lake towns and the ferry dock is also at the north end of town. I enjoyed my ferry ride from my base in Argegno across the lake to Varenna, there is just something special about those boat trips!

The Passegiata degli Innamorati, Varenna

 From the ferry dock, to the south, is the second part of town, the fishing village.  The two areas are connected by one of Lake Como’s best walks - the Passegiata degli Innamorati (the Lover’s Walk).  This passarella (walkway) is dramatic – a long pathway balanced right above the shore.  You will know it by its red railings and the big red heart at a viewpoint along the way.   Along the passarella are windswept trees, greenery, stone walls, flowers, villas, and big views.  You may even be serenaded by an accordion player as you pass by.

At the end of the walkway lies a tiny harbor full of small fishing boats and then the lakeside village.  This is the southwestern part of Varenna.  The village has nice shops, artisans, restaurants, cafes and some wonderful views over the lake.  It also has some of those typical Lake Como alleys, called contrade, with steep steps leading up to Varenna’s third part – the “upper village” and the town’s main piazza.

Rather than going straight up to the main piazza, I prefer to take a more circuitous walk.   By continuing south along the Riva Garibaldi and east along Contrade del Prestino you pass by the luxurious hotel Du Lac.  Once a villa, now turned into an elegant hotel, it has fantastic views from its terrace restaurant and bar.  Just past the hotel are more contrade leading up towards Piazza San Giorgio, the main square in Varenna, and the Villa Monastero. 

A good lunch spot along the way is the Bar Giardini, part of the Hotel Royal Victoria, reached by heading up Contrada della Fontana. Dining under the loggia, wisteria overhead, sipping a glass of wine (this is vacation after all) while gazing at the lake and the mountains beyond made for a quiet, peaceful, and elegant break in the middle of my day in Varenna.  Lunch here was a splurge but worth it!

Piazza San Georgio

In the upper village sits Varenna’s main square, the pretty and shady Piazza San Giorgio. Across from the piazza is the 14th century Chiesa di San Georgio with its tall bell tower.

 Continuing east (away from the waterfront) up Via IV Novembre is the Tourist Information Office, a good place to stop for a city map.  Further along was the main goal for my one day visit to Varenna - the Villa Monastero.  Visiting gardens, especially in Italy, is one of my favorite things to do.  I came across this one almost 30 years ago on my first trip to Italy. I was looking forward to a return visit.

Villa Monastero, Varenna

The villa, which began as a Cistercian Monastery in the 12th century, later became a private home.  The last owners donated it and today it is a public museum and botanical garden.  

The garden, which has evolved over more than a century, meanders for about a mile along the lake.  The plants, many quite unusual, have come from all over the world.  There are evergreen trees, giant cacti, palms, citrus trees, vines and flowers.  The combination of colors, sizes, forms and textures creates a truly special garden.

 The garden is more than just plants. It’s an architectural and artistic wonder as well.  The setting includes terraces, fountains, sculptures, ornately carved balustrades, ironwork, and breathtaking views. 

 I spent so much time in the garden that there wasn’t time to explore the villa museum.  That will call me back to Varenna on a future trip.

website: villamonastero.eu

A Walk Through Peccioli

Tuscany is dotted with hill towns, including several that are close enough to visit as a day trip from my home base in Lucca.  Barga and Montecatini Alto are easily reachable by train or bus.  Others, including Montecarlo, Collodi, Volterra, and San Gimignano, are an easy car ride away.  I’ve been lucky to spend time in each over the years I’ve been in Lucca but there are still so many hill towns left for me to explore!

 On a recent outing, arranged by The Tuscan Wanderer, we drove through the Valdera, the Valley of the Era River, as we returned to Lucca after a visit to a winery in the town of Terricciola.  This is not a region that I’ve visited before, and it requires a car, so I was pleased to join this group adventure.

Peccioli, viewed from the modern terrace suspended over the edge of town.

The Era River runs between Volterra and Pontedera in the Province of Pisa.  At Pontedera the Era joins the river Arno as it flows towards the sea.  High above the river valley lies the small hilltop village of Peccioli, easily spotted from a distance by the tall bell tower of its church.  How fortunate that this little hill town was one of our destinations! 

Peccioli’s most recognizable landmark, the campanile of the church of San Verano, can be seen from a distance down in the valley.

 Peccioli, like so many of Tuscany’s hill towns, has a Medieval layout and a long history of territorial wars as Pisa and Florence battled for control of the town.  Built in the 11th century around a now ruined castle, Peccioli has an historic center with a central piazza, an ancient church, and a series of narrow streets and small alleys. 

 Like most hill towns, there are great views. In Peccioli the vistas are down to the valley from one side of town and out onto Tuscan hillsides and farmland from the other side.  But much as Peccioli has in common with other Tuscan hill towns, it also has its own unique character.

What gives Peccioli its special flavor is the series of contemporary art installations found throughout town. 

Artists from around the world have created works of art and architecture specifically designed for display in Peccioli.  The contrast between the ancient and the modern is intriguing and lots of fun.

Throughout town are old doors, ancient brick structures, and houses fronted by pretty flowerpots mixed in with the more contemporary art pieces.

 Along an old brick wall are hundreds of photos of eyes, an installation called the Squardo di Peccioli.  The artist, Vittorio Corsini, photographed the eyes of Peccioli’s residents for his work.

A sky bridge connects the historic center with an elevator down to the newer parts of town below in the valley.  Titled Endless Sunset, the work by Patrick Tuttofuoco spirals around the walkway with a ribbon of color.  It turns what might be an ordinary bridge into a work of art.

 A large terrace designed by architect Mario Cuninella juts out from the edge of town, giving long views to the farmland and hills surrounding the town – a classic Tuscan view.

Our time in Piccioli was brief, a short detour on the drive between Terricciola and Lucca.  There are many more art installations to explore, museums to visit, and an historic center with shops and cafes in which to linger.  I am looking forward to a return visit.

Exploring Argegno's Back Streets

Argegno’s waterfront. The green building is where the ferries dock.

Don’t you find that “firsts” leave lasting impressions?  First day of school, first love, first taste of olive oil fresh from the press, first home, first big purchase with your own money, first Christmas with a new baby, first bottle of really good wine.  All of these firsts are important milestones in life and treasured memories. 

One of my memorable firsts is the first time I traveled to Italy.  I arrived in 1996 to one of the most beautiful places on earth – Lake Como in northern Italy.   I had no idea that when I first went to the small lake-side town of Argegno that I was embarking on a life-long love affair with a town, a lake, a country, and a way of life. 

I don’t know whether it was the stunning views, the sound of water lapping at the shoreline, the feeling of the wind as I traveled by boat across the lake, the friendly people, or dinners with fish fresh from the lake. Somehow they added up to magic.   Since that first trip I have visited Argegno a number of times and found a little something new to enjoy each time I visit. 

In Argegno, most of the action takes place right along the lakefront.  That’s where the main piazza sits, ringed with cafes, bars, and restaurants. It’s also where to find the morning hotspot - the really good Pasticceria and Caffè (officially called Pasticceria Grandi).  Its old wooden display cabinets, pretty bar, and wonderful aromas, along with a view of the lake, make it the perfect place to begin a day in Argegno. Even the neighborhood cat stops by!

Santissima Trinit Church, Argegno

The lakefront is also where the ferries stop to pick up passengers, carrying them to some of the better known towns along the lake. The wonderful hotel Villa Belvedere sits right at the edge of the lake in Argegno.  So does the local church of Santissima Trinità (The Holy Trinity).  Even the Monday market is set up next to the small harbor that fronts the lake.  All of these things are definitely worth exploring.

 But it would be a shame to stick only to the lakefront because Argegno’s back streets are fascinating. The mostly pedestrian lanes lead to mysterious dark passageways and alleys meandering up into the hills above town.

A wander towards the river Telo, which runs from up in the surrounding hills right into the lake, leads to an ancient stone bridge. Often there is just a trickle of water in this part of the Telo, but after a good rain the river swells and water flows quickly under the bridge. Standing on the bridge gives views of the houses further up along the river as well as views down to where the river meets the lake.

Argegno’s small lanes are filled with worn old doors, pretty flower boxes, and homes built where old mills once stood. 

There is so much to appreciate in the streets where few visitors wander.  Those back streets and steep alleys also provide some spectacular views high over the lake and a quiet escape from the lively Piazza Roma on the lakefront. 

Most visitors spend just a few days at Lake Como, exploring the famous towns of Bellagio, Tremezzo, and Varenna. But a longer stay provides a chance to explore the hidden spots in the smaller villages such as Argegno. Argegno was my first Italian experience, an introduction to a very different life. It still enchants and inspires me.

September in Lucca

September is one of my favorite months in Italy.  It starts out as summer – hot and humid – and then slowly transforms itself into autumn. By late September the mornings and evenings are cool enough that sweaters and scarves make their first appearance of the season. The cooler weather is perfect for a passeggiata, the Italian tradition of an evening stroll, yet still pleasant enough for sitting outdoors at a cafe.  The AC (if one is lucky enough to have it) has been turned off and the windows are open, letting in cool breezes and the hint of fall that is in the air.

Late September skies are beautiful and the weather is pleasant.

 In Lucca, September is a unique month. It even has a special name -  Settembre Lucchese.  It is a month of festivals, artisan markets, concerts, and celebrations. 

This year September kicked off with Murabilia, the annual fall garden show.  Murabilia has everything for the fall garden, from plants to yard art to terracotta pots.  For inside the home there are delicate orchids, fall gourds, and pretty linens.  Artisans demonstrate and sell their crafts and food stands offer local products – meats, cheese, breads, garlic, and flavored syrups.  

September also brings the Palio della Santa Croce. The Palio is has its roots in medieval times as members of the three contrade (districts) in the historic center of Lucca engage in a crossbow competition. The event starts with a procession of musicians, flag throwers, costumes, and the very medieval looking archers.  The procession weaves its way through Lucca, stopping to perform in some of the piazzas, eventually making their way to the area behind the Cathedral of San Martino where this year’s competition took place.

September’s most important event, The Luminaria of Santa Croce, takes place every year on the evening of September 13th.   The luminaria is in honor of Lucca’s most important ancient artifact, the wooden crucifix known as the Volto Santo (Holy Face). 

The legend of the Volto Santo is this: it was crafted by Nicodemus who fell asleep before carving the face.  When he awoke, he found that the face had been miraculously completed. The legend continues with a journey across the sea to the coast of Italy and then a trip by oxcart to Lucca more than 1000 years ago.  Both journeys are considered miracles as, according to the legend, the ship and the oxcart where unmanned and divinely guided to Lucca. The crucifix became a stop on the pilgrim’s route to Rome. It remains a venerated religious object to this day, drawing modern day pilgrims to Lucca. 

The crucifix usually rests in a small chapel within the Cathedral of San Martino where the figure of Christ is dressed in a gold vestments during the festival. This year was a bit different as the crucifix is undergoing restoration.  It has been moved from its small chapel to an area inside the cathedral where it is possible to watch the restoration in progress.   

During the luminaria procession religious and civic groups move through the candlelit streets of Lucca.  The Volto Santo is represented by a cloth image held aloft. Each year there is a large cross made of flowers. Participants hold candles and prayers are chanted along the route. It is a beautiful and moving event with both religious and cultural meaning.

Settembre Lucchese came to a close this year with the Festival of San Michele (St. Michael the Archangel).  A special mass was held in the Basilica of San Michele, one of Lucca’s historic churches.  A concert, on the evening of September 23rd, filled the church with music by the Polifonica Lucchese and the Boccherini Orchestra. The fullness of the music, along with beautiful voices in the setting of a historic church, combined to create a very special evening.

 September is an ideal time to visit Lucca. It is not too early to begin planning for a September 2024 visit !

By the third week of September the temperatures are cool enough for a late morning walk along Lucca’s shady walls.

A Day in Bellagio

Bellagio is the most famous of the towns along the shores of Lake Como. It is considered a touristic “must see” and has more visitors than any of the other towns.  Blessed by an enviable location, Bellagio sits at the very spot where the lower lake splits into two branches, Lake Como continuing to the southwest and Lake Lecco to the southeast.  The dividing spot at the tip of the peninsula is named the Punta Spartivento, the point where the wind divides.  The views of the lake from this spot are hard to beat.

A Traghetto (car ferry) is one type of ferry that brings visitors to Bellagio.

With such a prime location, and with frequent boats ferrying visitors between Bellagio and the other mid-lake cities, Bellagio has a little something for everyone – stunning scenery, a flower filled waterfront promenade, beautiful hotels, wine tasting, fine dining, and some great shopping.

There is an upper part of town, along Via Garibaldi, and a lower part along the lake shore. The two are connected by a series of “streets” which are not streets at all but staircases.  Salita Serbelloni is the most famous of these staircases.  This wide series of steps, lined with shops, galleries and restaurants, leads from Via Garibaldi in the upper portion of Bellagio down to the waterfront.  The views are fabulous and the shops have beautiful things, but beware - the often crowded steps and lack of handrails are not ideal for anyone with balance or mobility issues.  Sure-footed people seem to bounce up and down the steps with ease, often stopping for photos of the lake view and selfies. 

Salita Serbelloni

For anyone wanting to avoid the stairs, it is possible to reach the upper portion of Bellagio by walking left when exiting the boat dock, past the pretty Hotel Villa Serbelloni, and up Via Roma where a sidewalk leads more gently up the hill to Via Garibaldi. I like to follow that path, explore the upper part of Bellagio, and then take one of the less crowded staircases at the far end of Via Garibaldi down to the lake front. 

San Giacomo Church

Near the north end of Via Garibaldi is Piazza della Chiesa, home to the church of San Giacomo.  The stone church, built in the 11th century, is plain on the outside but the inside shines with gold adornments – mosaics, an ornate golden altar, and a shimmering apse.  When the bells ring the entire piazza is filled with their beautiful sound. 

Piazza della Chiesa has a central fountain, an ancient tower, and a ring of shops, art galleries, and cafes.  It’s a great spot to stop for a coffee or to begin some serious Bellagio shopping. My first shopping stop was in the L’Angelo delle Idea, filled with hand made glass pieces and glass Christmas ornaments (always a good souvenir). 

Continue down the narrow street to find a variety of shops.  If in need of provisions for the kitchen, they can be found at the fruttivendolo (green grocer), the Macellaria e Salumeria (butcher and deli shop), or the shop selling fresh pastas.  You’ll also find shops with beautiful silks, good quality handbags, shoes, and jewelry. 

My favorite shop, and one of the best for good quality souvenirs, is the Bottega di Legno della Famiglia Tacchi, situated near the top of the Salita Serbelloni.  The Tacchi family have been woodworkers since 1855.  The shop is is one of the oldest in Bellagio.  Here you’ll find beautiful wood housewares (don’t miss the rolling pins!), wooden toys, Christmas ornaments and beautifully carved nativities along with an assortment of other wooden products.  Peak into the back room with its workbench and old tools and you can imagine a long ago craftsmen at work. 

 After exploring Via Garibaldi, a walk down any one of the Salitas leads down to the waterfront.  Salita Genazzini (a few minutes walk past Salita Serbelloni) is a good choice.  Not only is it narrower and less crowded, but it leads to my favorite spot for a light lunch or a wine tasting, Enoteca Cava Turacciolo..  Inside, the low stone ceilings, wooden tables and rows upon rows of wine bottles provide a moody, cozy atmosphere.  In warm weather, small tables sit outside and run up the steps of the salita.  The generous platters of meats and cheeses, along with bread and buttery green olives, paired with a choice from over 300 wines, is a perfect Bellagio lunch and a great break before exploring the waterfront areas.

From the base of Salita Genazzi, a left turn leads to Bellagio’s pretty lakeside promenade lined with trees, flowers, and wonderful views.  Stop for a minute at the memorial commemorating a visit by President Kennedy in June of 1963. Further on are the gardens of Villa Melzi.  

A right turns leads back toward the ferry stops.  Bellagio has two – one for the traghetti (car ferries) and one for the passenger ferries.  Along the way are more shops and a covered passageway (a nice break from the summer sun) with upscale shops, mostly aimed at tourists, and restaurants.

Bellagio’s ferry docks get crowded in high season - best to arrive well before departure time.

Many tourists make a quick stop in Bellagio and then hurry on to the next village on a hop-on, hop-off boat tour of the lake.  I prefer to spend a full day in Bellagio with plenty of time to wander, enjoy the scenery, stop for a coffee or a gelato (maybe both), visit the church, have a leisurely lunch, do some shopping, and take a late ferry back to my home base in Argegno. No matter which plan suits your travel style, Bellagio is definitely a lake town worth visiting.