The Pharmacy of Santa Maria Novella in Florence

As I stand at the entrance to the Pharmacy of Santa Maria Novella I have a sudden thought - this must be what heaven smells like. I can hardly wait to go inside!

The official name is Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, in English that translates to the Workshop of Perfumes and Pharmaceuticals of Santa Maria Novella. That is a fairly ordinary name for an extraordinary place.

The pharmacy was established by Dominican friars from the nearby church of Santa Maria Novella during the early 13th century, making it one of the oldest European apothecaries still in operation. Centuries ago the friars cultivated herbs and used them to make herbal medicines, tinctures, and ointments for the monastery. Some of their brews, scented with rose water, herbs, and spices, were designed to fight the plagues that ravaged Florence and to treat a variety of other ailments. The friars became famous for their potions and in the 1600’s they opened their pharmacy to the public.

It has been a long time since the pharmacy was run by monks. Fortunately they left behind both their legacy and the formulas they created. For several generations the pharmacy was owned by a family who honored the traditions left by those long-ago friars. They expanded the business to many countries and gave it an on-line presence (in the US the website is: us.smnovella.com). This year ownership was acquired by an Italian beauty products company, Italmobiliare. Let’s hope they continue the wonderful legacy of those long ago monks.

The pharmacy still operates in its historic location on Via della Scala in what was once the Chapel of San Niccolò. The original chapel was built in thanks for the care given to a local merchant, Dardano Acciaioli, by the friars of the church of Santa Maria Novella. It is no surprise then that a trip to the pharmacy feels a bit like a religious pilgrimage.

Walking down Via della Scala towards number 16, you will know you have arrived when you become aware of that most enticing scent. The outside of the building is unremarkable, so allow the scent to draw you in. The experience begins just inside the doors as you cross the ornate marble floor and pass through the elaborate floral decorations. Just follow that scent!

The experience begins at the entrance to the antique pharmacy

Just off the entry hall is a room that was once the sacristy of the the Chapel of San Niccolò. Adorned with beautiful frescoes from around the year 1400 (below), today this room is part museum and part showroom.

Each subsequent room in the pharmacy evokes the ancient apothecary, provides interesting historical artifacts, and contains elegantly displayed products.

Shop here and you follow in the footsteps of Catherine di Medici, an early patron of the pharmacy. A unique perfume was developed for her, named Acqua della Regina. It was the first perfume to be made with alcohol as a base and it traveled with her to France. The scent is still produced today along with a host of other wonderful scents.

Perhaps Catherine di Medici wore an amulet like this one on display in the pharmacy, filled with a potion to ward off illness.

In addition to perfumes, the other products sold here include elixirs, liquors, soaps, potpourri, lozenges, scented candles, and skin care products. There are also some beautiful accessories for the home. All are manufactured locally using traditional methods.

I visited just before Christmas when the seasonal decorations were fabulous and the gift buying opportunities were endless. Every product was beautifully presented, even a simple package of mints came in an artfully designed tin. The delicate filigree items (candle and potpourri holders) are handmade by a local craftsman. They make lovely Christmas ornaments, with or without potpourri. Each gift comes in a box tied with an elegant ribbon.

The Christmas tree at Santa Maria Novella pharmacy, 2021

Florence is full of churches and museums - a host of “must see” places. The Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella provides a different Florentine experience. It is a feast for the senses and a taste of luxury both ancient and contemporary. It is a unique way to step back into the history of this remarkable Italian city.

Firenze at Christmas: Lights, Sparkle, Magic

It is hard not to compare Christmas this year with last year’s holiday in Italy. Hands down, this year wins! In 2020 the holiday came with increased COVID restrictions which prevented travel between cities. That meant no trip to Firenze (Florence) to marvel at the Christmas decorations (a small thing in light of the more serious issues associated with the pandemic, but still, one more small loss). A little bit of sparkle would have been most welcome at the end of last year!

As of mid-December 2021 no such restrictions on travel are in place. Firenze is aglow and welcoming visitors. There are precautions in place, including a requirement to wear masks outdoors in the main piazzas during certain times (I actually witnessed local police enforcing this rule). And while there were definitely crowds when I visited in early December, by Florentine standards they were fairly modest. Best of all, Firenze at Christmas is as magical as ever!

By day there is un sacco (a whole lot) of things to see and do. I started my day in Firenze with a lunchtime stroll through the Mercato di Natale. The market sits in front of the church of Santa Croce and brings a blend of Italian and German holiday celebrations to the city. After a year’s absence, the 2021 market marked a return to tradition. Plus I enjoyed a German flavored lunch from one of the many stalls.

Many hours can be spent along the streets of Firenze peeking into shops filled with Christmas goods, seeing the elaborately decorated shop windows, and enjoying all the greenery that frames the doorways of shops, cafes, and hotels. (Some of my favorites below)

There are many other things to see during the day - the stunning terra cotta nativity in front of the Duomo, the nearby Christmas tree made even more beautiful by the back drop of the marble clad cathedral, happy kids riding the carousel in Piazza della Repubblica. In Firenze, Christmas is everywhere.

Life size terracotta figures make a simple but beautiful nativity scene outside of the Duomo. Note that there is no infant Jesus yet - he arrives Christmas Eve.

For a time out, I recommend a stop at Caffè Gilli for a pot of tea and a little dolce (sweet). Gilli has an old world elegance and provides the perfect setting to sit, catch your breath, and appreciate the Italian Christmas spirit. An added bonus is that the cafe offers a view of the carousel in Piazza della Repubblica and also has one of the best windows in town, full of whimsical Christmas chocolate creations.

As wonderful as the city is by day, it is at night that the magic really happens.

Once the sun goes down the streets sparkle with lights. A walk down Via dei Servi, from Piazza SS Annunziata toward the glowing lantern atop the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore (the Duomo), is a breathtaking sight.

Another not-to-be missed sight is a nighttime view of the ever-changing display on the facade of the Rinascente department store in Piazza della Repubblica.

For intense sparkle, head to the area around the intersection of Via Tornabuoni and Via degli Strozzi and prepare to be amazed.

The lights here are intertwined with gold and silver ornaments. They dazzle and seem to fill the sky. It is impossible to stand here and not smile.

I was in Firenze the night of the tree lighting, which meant there were some special celebrations. Drummers and flag bearers in medieval costume and a brass band attended the ceremony. Afterwards, a train load of Santas arrived and then wandered through town throughout the evening, delighting adults and children alike.

I love Firenze any time of year. But at Christmas, and especially this year, it made the perfect holiday excursion. Grazie Firenze!

The Artisans and Shopkeepers of Chiasso Barletti

Little touches like a basket of flowers add to the charm of Chiasso Barletti

Tucked away just a bit off the main drag of Via Fillungo in Lucca lies the small vicolo (alley) of Chiasso Barletti. Home to a collection of small artisan workshops and wonderful negozi (shops), it is one of the few completely pedestrian lanes in town. That makes it the perfect place both to “vedere le vetrine” (window shop) and to “fare shopping” (go shopping - the Italians often use the English word shopping in this context). With the holidays approaching, shopping is certainly on my mind and Chiasso Barletti is sure to be one of my first stops.

The vicolo itself is interesting year round with its old doors, cobbled streets, outdoor displays of goods and art, plants, newsstand headlines, and even interesting bits of art dangling overhead. Most recently that has included a collection of colorful wooden cutouts of houses and suns; this week they’ve added Christmas decorations above the street and all along the lane. In addition to being one of my favorite shopping streets, its character also makes it my favorite detour when walking though town.

Copper pans on display in the shop Chocolat

It has been good to watch new shops put down roots here over the past few years. Each shop offers something unique and shows off the best of Lucca’s art and culture in its own way. Several of the workshops offer a chance to see an artist at work, something that makes owning one of their pieces even more special.

This collection of shops have inviting goods, enchanting and ever changing window displays, personal touches, and a warmth that draws you into to the shops and makes you want to stay awhile. The friendliness of the owners makes it even more wonderful. Stop by and chat for awhile!

Here is a sample of my favorite shops in Chiasso Barletti. First, the artisan workshops:

It’s always enjoyable to see an artist at work. Here, Stefano makes beautiful ceramic pieces.

Rossoramina offers beautiful hand painted ceramics and table linens. Step inside and watch Federica and Stefano as they create everything from tiny espresso cups and larger mugs to plates and platters as well as decorative pieces. Their designs use color and pattern in eye-catching ways. A set of their smaller size coffee cups (a perfect size for a macchiato) sits in my china cabinet and is a joy to use. This is a great go-to place for special home goods and for gifts at any time of year.

Next door, find hand-crafted jewelry at the studio of Elena Camilla Bertellotti.

This is another place where you can see artisans at work as they use their tools to create contemporary jewelry in silver and brass (or gold by special request).

The pieces are unique and the window display always makes me stop to admire the newest necklaces, rings, and earrings.

Just across the way, you can sometimes catch the artist painting at Maria Guida Studio d’Arte. Her work is both colorful and whimsical and always makes me smile. This is another great place for artwork and gifts that are unique to Lucca.

In addition to the artisan workshops, there are other special shops along this alleyway. Here are my favorites:

Chocolat, the tastiest shop in Chiasso Barletti

The tastiest shop in Chiasso Barletti is Chocolat. Not only can you find beautiful creations in chocolate here but also a variety of caramelle (candies) and loose teas. They also create whimsical window displays that change to reflect seasonal events and holidays. Their Christmas windows are especially delightful.

I love to buy table decorations in chocolate here (like their oh-so-Italian Easter Chickens) or small bags of chocolate truffles as hostess gifts. After all, one can never go wrong with chocolate, right?

Elisabetta Santi has worked in affari di cappelli (the hat business) for many years. But when the legendary Lucchese hat shop where she worked sadly closed she decided it was time to open her own shop and so created Santi punto. She opened in Chiasso Barletti during the pandemic. What a leap of faith that must have been!

Her shop sells gorgeous hats for women and men as well as scarfs, bags, coats, and umbrellas. They are artfully arranged inside the shop as well as in colorful window displays. This is the go to spot for summer sun hats, warm winter hats, rain hats, and year-round fashionable hats. Elisabetta makes her colorful hats and collections of umbrellas look like art.

Last, but definitely not least, is one of my favorite places in Lucca - Etta’s Bookshop. Run by the delightful Julia (and named after her cat Etta), the shop sells English language books and lots of fun things for book lovers. It is a cozy, friendly place - everything that a neighborhood bookshop should be.

There are many English speakers here in Lucca and Etta’s bookstore has quickly built a devoted fan base, myself included. A quick wave from Julia as I pass her shop brightens any day considerably. Even better is to stop in, chat a bit, browse, and head home with a new literary treasure (or a mind-candy guilty pleasure). Often I will do an informal “orientation walk” with newcomers to Lucca (if you’re a blog reader coming to Lucca for a long stay I am happy to do this!) and Etta’s Bookshop is always a stop on the tour.

I walk through Chiasso Barletti nearly everyday, often going out of my way just because I enjoy the atmosphere here (and the lack of automobiles). There is always something new to see in the changing window displays, the vignettes outside of storefronts, the flowers along the lane, the decorations overhead. It’s fun to see the shopkeepers, a small community of their own making, chatting outside their shops. It is especially wonderful at this time of year, with a red carpet rolled out down the center of the alley, little trees decorated with ribbons on the walls, and holiday colors in all the shop windows. It’s the perfect spot for some holiday shopping!

One of my all-time favorite window displays at Chocolat.

Note: No paid advertising here - these are just a few of my favorite places!

Christmas in Italy 2020

In the weeks leading up to Christmas, Lucca remained stubbornly in the Orange Zone of Covid restrictions. Shops were open, but restaurants and cafes stayed closed except for “to-go” food and drink. It also meant no trips to nearby cities to marvel at the decorations (how I miss seeing Florence at Christmas).

Via Sant’Andrea, Lucca looking very festive with the Torre Guinigi in the distance

Mild weather and a few days of being in the yellow zone made it possible to enjoy a holiday coffee with a friend

And then, a small Christmas gift. For 4 short days before Christmas, Dec 20 - 23, Tuscany became a yellow zone. Overnight cafes reopened and the piazzas and city streets once again seemed lively. This of course was a mixed blessing. It was a delight to sit in a cafe and sip a cappuccino with a friend, but the temptation to let down one’s guard also became a little more challenging.

With fears that holiday gatherings would lead to an increase in COVID spread, those 4 days came to an end on Christmas Eve as all of Italy was placed back into the red zone - maximum restrictions.

But that did not stop Lucca from displaying holiday spirit. The piazzas and main streets of the historic center are strung with lights, including those wonderful words from Dante pictured in last week’s post.

Piazza Anfiteatro, Lucca. Christmas 2020

Doorways are decorated on homes throughout town. Shop windows are full of holiday treats and Christmas trees have appeared in piazzas.

The always charming Chiasso Barletti is once again the prettiest little alley in town. It’s also one of the best places to buy gifts with its artisan shops (think chocolate, ceramics, jewelry, hats) and Etta’s - the most wonderful English language bookstore.

Even though our holiday get togethers are limited this year (if not discouraged all together) it is still possible to wander the streets, gaze into windows, stroll down red-carpeted alleys filled with little Christmas trees, pop into churches to see the presepe (nativity scenes), and to enjoy the decorated doorways.

San Michele Church, Lucca at Christmas

And because the holiday season here lasts all the way to Epiphany on January 6th, the day when Old Befana arrives with gifts of socks and candy, there is still plenty of time to enjoy the festivities. Buon Feste!

Spending Christmas with Dante

 I love Italy year-round, through rain and shine, ordinary days and extraordinary ones, warm springs and crisp autumns, rare snowy days, and yes, even in this year of pandemic. But Christmas time remains just about my favorite season.

The holidays are pure delight in Lucca - streets aglow with lights, small alleys filled with trees and lined with colorful shop windows, whole buildings wrapped in lights or bows, skating rinks, decorated doorways and windows, nativity scenes large and small, Babbo Natale (the Italian version of Santa Claus) and Old Befana (the best witch ever).  From the simplest touch to the most elaborate display, it’s all magic to me.

This month, despite Italy’s very difficult year, Lucca is once again all dressed up for Christmas.  And, really, how can you not love a city where the piazzas are decorated for the holiday with poetry by Dante spelled out in lights?  Not visions of hellish infernos (though many might think that fitting this year), but rather words with eyes toward the stars and full of hope. In piazza San Frediano (pictured above) the message is: L’amor che move il sole e l’altre stelle (the love that moves the sun and other stars).

A short walk over to Piazza Cittadella, there is another quote from Dante: E quindi, usciamo a reveder le stelle. (and then, we go out to again see the stars).

In Piazza San Francesco the words drift above the large Christmas tree - Se segui la tua stella, non poi faillire glorioso porto (loose translation - if you follow your star, you cannot fail to reach a glorious place).

This year, Dante’s star filled words offer a perfect glimpse of hope and light. And isn’t that a perfect way to end this year?

I wish you all a happy and safe holiday season. Buone Feste !