The Booksellers of Pontremoli

The image of an itinerant bookseller stands outside a bookshop in Pontremoli

Imagine a time, in the centuries before printing was established, when books where hard to come by.   This was certainly the situation long ago in the remote and mountainous areas of Northern Italy. Printing of books did not arrive to the area until the late 15th century. What a miracle those early books must have seemed!

In the 16th century, itinerant booksellers began to travel from town to town, carrying baskets full of books. They reached the small hamlets throughout northern Italy, even venturing all the way to Germany, setting up temporary stalls to sell books.

These traveling booksellers came from the Lunigiana region of northern Tuscany, particularly from the towns of Pontremoli and Montereggio.  The selling of books became a family business, a tradition passed down from generation to generation.  Over time the work of the booksellers became more established. Today, many bookstores in northern and central Italy can trace their roots back to Pontremoli’s traveling booksellers.

I first noticed the books of Pontremoli in this stairwell leading up to the apartment I was renting.

I didn’t know much about this history before I visited Pontremoli last fall.  I was immediately struck by the fact that books were everywhere.  Books filled nooks along the staircase in the Airbnb apartment where I stayed.  Books sat outside shops in small baskets, payment on the honor system.  Books lined shelves in cafes and restaurants.  There was also a large shop selling new and used books in Piazza della Repubblica, right in the heart of the historic center.  Pontremoli seemed to be a city of books.

Just off Piazza della Repubblica was a courtyard filled with benches sculpted in the form of open books.  Each had a date, a title, an author’s name, and a snippet of text.  A similar book bench was found in the courtyard of the Piagnaro Castle high above town.  Curious!

New and used books displayed below an sign for the 2005 Premio Bancarella

A bit of investigation revealed that the book benches were related to an annual literary prize, The Premio Bancarella, awarded each summer in the city of Pontremoli. 

The prize has its roots in the city’s history of booksellers.  In fact, the Premio Bancarella is the only literary prize awarded by a committee made up exclusively of booksellers.  Unlike publishers and literary scholars, the booksellers know which books are popular with their customers, which ones are most in demand.  The prize is a connection from author to bookseller to reader.  And the term Bancarella, meaning stall, reflects those early booksellers who set up stalls in the smallest of towns.

Each year since 1952 a panel of booksellers has met to award the prize.  The first year the prize was awarded in nearby Montereggio. That year the winner was Hemingway for The Old Man and the Sea.  Since then the prize has been awarded each year in Pontremoli. The list of winners include Italian literary figures and authors from around the globe. 

In 2006 a category for books related to food was added, The Premio Bancarella della Cucina.  That may explain the large number of cookbooks found in the bookshop near where the prizes are awarded.

There are many things to love about Pontremoli, but the fact that the town is full of books is an added bonus.

A glimpse inside a Pontremoli book shop selling new and used books in a variety of genres

Late Winter in Lucca

Hard rain outside my window kept me inside with a good book!

As February turns into March, winter is making a last stand here in Tuscany.   Some areas, especially up in the hills, have seen snow this week. 

Here in Lucca there has been no snow, just gray, cloudy skies and rain ranging from a drizzle to a hard downpour. The temperatures have been made even more chilly by the wind.  It is definitely still winter coat, hat, and scarf weather.  Not exactly the early spring weather I had hoped to find on my return to Lucca after several weeks away.

But, no complaints.  I am happy to be back in Lucca no matter the weather.  In fact, I rather like Lucca in the rain. 

The gloomy days have been perfect for staying inside, reading, sipping tea, and doing some baking.  Well, at least it was perfect until the night I turned my dishwasher on, forgetting that I also had my space heater going.  Poof – out went the power.  Picture a night without lights or heat, too late to poke around the cantina (basement) trying to find the big electric panel with the main breaker for my apartment.  Fortunately, I had a good flashlight and lots of candles.  Since the gas stove was still working, I was able to boil water to fill a hot water bottle, a fine way to keep warm through a cold night. All was sorted out the next morning when the sun came up and a neighbor showed me where to find the main electric panel down in the cantina.  Lessons learned!

Rainy, chilly, and nearly deserted - a small street in Lucca during late February.

Some of the things I enjoy about Lucca during the late winter:  

The city is very quiet. Few tourists visit, the streets are nearly empty (especially in bad weather).  Lucca seems to slow down.  It feels peaceful and restorative.

The bare trees surrounding Piazza Napoleone have a dramatic beauty, so different than in summer when they burst into green leafiness.  

In late February and early March they are less exuberant, but just as beautiful.

Piazza Napoleone on a rainy afternoon. No carousel rides today!

The earliest blossoms along the wall, late February.

Early signs of spring evolve daily as tender shoots of bulbs spring up, tulips and daffodils appear in the weekly flower market, mimosas erupt in yellow color, and magnolias go from bud to bloom.

The days are getting longer, reminding me that dusk hour walks on Lucca’s wall are one of my favorite things to do.

Dusk along Lucca’s walls

The rain makes puddles in the streets.

The puddles reflect the ancient buildings and the cloudy skies, temporary art thanks to Mother Nature. And kids, like children everywhere, delight in splashing through the puddles.

Magnolia blossoms sparkle with drops of rain.

Magnolias, just starting to flower, look lovely glistening with rain drops

A rainy afternoon in Lucca is the perfect excuse to pop into an elegant café for a pot of tea and a sweet treat.  Caffè Santa Zita is just the place! A bit of luxury to brighten a gray day.

February skies can be quite dramatic!

The clouds make for ever changing skies, one minute blue with gentle white clouds and then suddenly dark, fast moving and threatening.

The sound of rain lulling me to sleep, either as the best reason for an afternoon nap or a gentle entry into sleep late at night.

All of these things make late winter a wonderful time to be in Tuscany.  And yet, a few weeks from now I will feel just as inspired by the onset of spring. Living through the cycle of seasons is one of the reasons I wanted to live in Italy.  I came thinking that once (or maybe twice) around the sun would be a wonderful esperience.  4+ years later I am still pinching myself and enjoying the changing season as winter slowly creeps into spring.

Farina di Castagne

A list of the ingredients important in Italian cooking often includes olive oil, tomatoes, pancetta, artichokes, garlic, lemons, basil, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, and balsamic vinegar.  But let’s not forget about a more humble ingredient - chestnuts (castagne or marroni in Italian).

In Tuscany, the mountains are full of chestnut trees.  It is no surprise then that the chestnut tree became a vital source of food, as well as of fuel and building material, especially during times of war, famine, and poverty. 

Abundant and nutritious, the chestnut became an essential ingredient in Italian “cucina povera”. That traditional continues to this day. Chestnuts are eaten roasted or steamed. They are also dried and ground into flour, farina di castagne, for use in breads, pastas, and sweets. 

Chestnut Roasting in Colognora di Pescaglia

Dishes made with farina di castagne appear on fall and winter menus.  With its naturally sweet and nutty flavor, chestnut flour has become one of my favorite ingredients for baking. 

 My fondness for these dishes began at a fall festival where I first tasted Necci. Necci are round and flat, somewhere between a crepe and a pancake in thickness.

Like a crepe they can be rolled around a filling.  The batter is very simple -  just chestnut flour, water, and a pinch of salt.  Traditionally, necci were cooked between testi, round stones heated over a fire.  Today Necci are usually cooked between two long-handled, flat cast iron plates.  The warm necci are then filled, most commonly with fresh ricotta and a drizzle of honey.  Delicious! 

These round stones, called testi, were the traditional method used to cook Necci. To learn more about chestnuts, visit the Chestnut Museum in Colognora di Pescaglia where this photo was taken.

Frittelle di Castagne, little fried chestnut fritters, served as an appetizer alongside fresh ricotta in the town of Pontremoli.

Similar to Necci are Frittelle di Castagne, often found in the areas of Tuscany known as the Lunigiana and the Garfagnana, both hilly areas in the north. 

The batter is similar to Necci, but the preparation is different.  Small scoops of batter are fried in oil, creating a crisp outside and tender inside. 

While I think of frittelle as breakfast or dessert items, lightly sprinkled with sugar, they can also be served unsweetened as an appetizer with a bit of ricotta.  That’s how I first encountered them last fall in a restaurant in the town of Pontremoli.

I have been working on learning to make both Necci and Frittelle di Castagne at home. 

For Necci, simply combine 1 cup of chestnut flour (100-120 gm), sifted after measuring, with ¾ - 1 cup of warm water. Mix well.

Take a little taste of the batter – the sweetness will surprise you!  

Either a heavy crepe pan or a non-stick skillet works to cook the Necci.  Lightly butter the pan to prevent sticking, pour in about ¼ cup batter and spread with a fork or spoon to create a thin crepe.  Cook until set, flip, and cook on the second side. Fill while warm with a couple of tablespoons of ricotta, drizzle with a little honey, roll up and enjoy! Makes 4-5 Necci.

For Frittelle di Castagne, combine 1 cup of chestnut flour (100-120gm), 1 teaspoon of baking powder, and a pinch of salt. Sift and add about 1 c. warm water (add about 3/4 of the water and then enough more to make a fairly thin batter). Mix well.  Heat vegetable oil in a frying pan, deep enough to cover the bottom of a pan and about half-way up the frittelle (I use ¼ c. oil in a small 8 in frying pan, frying 2-3 frittelle at a time).  Test the oil with a small drop of batter - it should have a lively sizzle and the batter should puff up slightly. Drop spoonfuls of batter into the hot oil, cook until the top is set and small bubbles appear, flip, and continue cooking until crisp and brown on both sides. Smaller is better for these fritters - small enough to cook through in just a couple of minutes and be crisp outside and not doughy inside.  Remove from the oil and place on a paper towel to drain.  Serve warm sprinkled with sugar or room temperature with a side of plain ricotta.   Makes about 18 - 20 small fritters.

Now that I’ve learned how to make these traditional Italian dishes, I am working on incorporating chestnut flour into some other baked goods. Stay tuned!

Taking Tea

While visiting, and now living most of the year in, Italy I have learned to appreciate good coffee – a foamy morning cappuccino, a fragrant afternoon macchiato.  I have even learned to drink a straight espresso on occasion, providing it is laced with plenty of sugar.  

A breakfast tea in Florence at the hotel Morandi alla Crocetta

But, thanks to an Irish mother and grandmother, I was raised on tea. They firmly believed that there was no problem in life that was too big to be solved over a cup of tea, especially when served with sugar, milk, and a side of something sweet.

 They left a lasting legacy - I still love a good cup of hot tea.  It is the way I begin every morning.  When I travel I love to find a hotel with a good morning breakfast tea service. It starts the day off right. 

But “taking tea” is so much more than just a way to start the day.  Tea is an event! One thing to remember - it is nearly criminal to order tea without something sweet to go along with it because, as a British transplant to Lucca once told me, “without some cake your tea is just too wet”.   Words of wisdom!

While Italy does not have as much of a tea tradition as some places, there are several spots where, in addition to great coffee, pots of tea are served along with a pastry or a slice of cake. One such spot is Cafe Manon Lescaut in Piazza Cittadella. When my British friend Judy came to visit she was delighted with the afternoon tea there (pictured below).

These days one of my favorite places to take tea in Lucca is the H&G Coffee Lounge.  Don’t let the name fool you, it isn’t all about the coffee.  At H&G they also brew lovely pots of tea and describe tea as a “perfectly codified ritual”.  The loose leaf tea comes in a stoneware vessel alongside a little timer so that the brewing time is just right.  And they have a selection of tasty cakes to go with.  Best of all tea is served in a pretty room with comfy chairs and quiet music.  Unlike the Italian habit of quickly downing a coffee, here you can linger with your pot of tea. Sitting at H&G on a rainy afternoon, with a good book to read and a hot cup of tea, is a joy.

 One of my favorite things to do when I travel is to find a place, simple or elegant, to have tea.  I’ve taken tea in various US, Canadian, and European cities. Below are photos of some of my favorites. Top row: Lauduree in Paris (left and middle), Cassandras Cup Tea Room, near Jane Austen’s cottage in Chawton, England (right). Bottom row: Gilli Cafe in Florence, souvenirs from The Empress in Victoria, Canada, and (bottom right) the very elegant tea room at the Four Seasons Gresham Palace in Budapest. Each place had its own character and charm.

One of my all-time favorite teas was on board a Viking Ocean Cruise.  The ship had a bright and welcoming tea room that served a daily high tea.  Taking tea in their beautiful tea salon definitely made me feel spoiled! I could have gone every afternoon on the cruise, but oh the calories!

  When I return to Albuquerque to visit my family you can bet I will spend one afternoon at the Saint James Tea Room. They serve a high tea complete with savories, scones, lemon curd, and sweets.  The Saint James ranks right up there with the best tea rooms in Europe. The setting, with cozy alcoves, beautiful china, and a sweet gift shop, is part of the fun.

I am trying to introduce my granddaughters to the concept of tea.  I started with a simple home tea party a few years ago - complete with hats and Oreos. Tea manners were definitely in the infancy stage.

They’ve now graduated to the Saint James.  Let’s just say that dressing up for tea, using soft voices, and appropriate tea conversation is still a work in progress.  This was tea with giggles.

Do you have as favorite tea spot?  I’d love to see photos on the Two Parts Italy facebook page!

Tea and a Marionberry scone on the coast of Oregon

Christmas in the Piazza

Piazza San Salvatore, Lucca

The historic center of Lucca has a medieval street plan which includes narrow streets, stone and brick buildings, towers, and a series of piazzas. The warmly colored buildings and the open spaces of the piazzas provide a perfect backdrop any time of year, but especially during the holiday season.

Each piazza in the historic center has some type of Christmas display. From traditional Christmas trees to oversize ornaments to metallic trees and old fashioned Christmas markets, the holiday vibe is everywhere. Overhead, the streets and piazzas have strings of lights and luminous stars. The ancient amphitheater has a projected light show on its curved walls, not to mention a giant Babbo Natale which delights the kids.

Piazza Napoleone is home to an ice skating rink and a Christmas market. The sounds of blades on ice, happy voices, and laughter accompany kids of all ages (and a few brave adults) as they skate around the rink. This is also where the carousel, decorated for the season, whirls kids and parents round and round.

Just beyond lies Piazza del Giglio, where the theater glows with lights and an oversize Christmas ornament lights up the piazza at night. The kids particularly like that they can walk through the ornament. As for the grownups, well there seem to be a lot of couples who stop inside for a photo or a kiss.

This year a group of artists were invited by the city of Lucca to create unique expressions reflecting Christmas themes. Their creativity fills the squares, streets, and even stretches to underneath the historic walls. Many of their creations are non-traditional or abstract, bringing a new sense of fun to the season. Pictured below: a recycled Christmas tree made entirely of plastic in Piazza Scalpellini and a very abstract tree, by Francesco Zavattari, which anchors a holiday chocolate market in Piazza Guidiccioni.

Piazza San Giovanni hosts a modern take on a woodland forest. Designed by local artist Emiliana Martinelli, it is edged with LED lights that cycle through a range of colors. Quite a contrast with the ancient church as a back drop.

Piazza del Duomo is host to one of my favorite installations. Designed by Michel Boucquillon and Donia Maaoui for the Alessi design company, this 18 foot high metallic tree, decorated with large round ornaments and a star at the top, is red on one side and silver on the other. During the day it reflects the surrounding buildings and at night it glows with reflective lights.

In the center of Lucca, the church of San Michele provides the backdrop for the largest Christmas tree in town. Locals turned out for the tree lighting ceremony on November 25th, a fun start to the Christmas installations throughout town. Under the loggia just across the square is a life size precepe (nativity scene). In Italy, nativity scenes include whole villages of people and this one is no exception. The figures are the work of the historic Giovacchino Marchi company, makers of nativity figurines since 1930.

Not all of the magic happens above ground. Underneath a section of the wall is a modern fairyland of snow and stars, another work by Francesco Zavattari. It is an unexpected surprise when taking the shortcut under the walls out into Lucca beyond the center.

Cold nights, bright lights, and Christmas magic - a perfect time for a walk through Lucca.

Piazza San Frediano