A Lucchese April

April can be a fickle month here in Lucca. After a few warm days in late March, the kind of days that almost trick you into packing away the winter sweaters, April barged in with colder days, wind, cloudy skies, and rain. The rain is much needed after a dry winter, so I won’t complain. And if the saying is true, and April showers really do bring May flowers, then Lucca should have a most colorful May.

This stand of white wisteria was an early bloomer this spring

Despite the early April chill, the days are growing longer, the first leaves have appeared on the trees, and the first blossoms throughout town hold the promise that warm spring weather will soon arrive.

Verde Mura is the perfect place to buy pots of herbs for the garden.

Perhaps the best harbinger of spring is the return, after a two year COVID-related pause, of Lucca’s spring garden festival - the Verde Mura. This wonderful event showcases all things needed to plant and tend a garden. It doesn’t matter if your garden is just a few pots on a terrace, a couple of window boxes, or a large orto (vegetable garden), the Verde Mura has what you need. The festival takes place up on the walls that surround Lucca’s centro storico (historic center) which means that the views are part of the fun.

Garden art at Verde Mura

Local gardeners pull wagons through the many booths, collecting everything from rose bushes to fruit trees to annual flowers and herbs. Need a tractor? Well, Verde Mura has just the one. Same with shovels, clay pots, bug sprays, fertilizer, seeds, and outdoor grills. In addition to these garden necessities, this is the place to find whimsical garden art, herbal products (soaps, teas, spices, syrups), fragrant spices, and a variety of crafts.

It is always fun to see traditional craftsmen at work; I especially love watching the basket weavers and broom makers.

Of course there was food (this is Italy after all). In addition to booths serving coffee and sweets there were plenty of vendors of local meats, cheeses, honey, pasta, and breads - most offering an assaggio (a taste). One booth had mounds of beautiful spring artichokes, bundles of aspargus, pretty Tropea onions and ripe strawberries from the south of Italy.

There was even the cutest little wine truck!

A break in the rain allowed for a slow morning wander through the many booths and displays of plants.

I came home with some herbs which are now happily planted in my window boxes as well as a colorful bouquet of ranunculi for my apartment.

I may have needed a warm coat, a scarf, and a hat against the chill but there was still a hint of spring in the air. I am looking forward to seeing the season unfold.

From My Italian Kitchen: Winter Salads

A caprese salad, drizzled with balsamic glaze.

Growing up in my family, salads were strictly summertime fare. There wasn’t much variety in the salads we ate, in fact there was no variety at all. Salad meant one thing - iceberg lettuce, tomato (luckily, living on Long Island we had really good locally grown tomatoes), and cucumber. The dressing was always the same, a combination of olive oil (at least it was labeled olive oil, I have my doubts), vinegar, and a packet of Good Season Italian Dressing mix. Toss it all together and serve alongside everything from spaghetti to hotdogs to grilled steaks. When I moved from New York to Colorado, I got my first taste of avocado in a salad. A definite improvement. I think the first major variation on the familiar salad theme that I tasted was a Caesar salad - romaine lettuce, salty anchovies, cheese, and a flavorful dressing. And garlic croutons! My eyes were opened to new possibilities.

And then I started traveling to Italy. I remember with clarity the first time I tasted an Italian caprese salad with creamy mozzarella, perfectly ripe tomato, fresh basil, and really flavorful olive oil. Equally joyous was my first panzanella. The ingredients were familiar (cucumber, tomato, red onion, olive oil, red wine vinegar, bread) but they came together in a new and exciting way, one that made my taste buds explode. In Lucca, I tasted my first shaved raw artichoke salad topped with pear and pecorino cheese. I also discovered an arugula salad topped with big shaves of parmesan and carpaccio of beef. What a revelation!

Salad never looked like this when I was growing up!

Now it is mid-winter and the weather is cold and windy. The sun warmed tomatoes of summer are long gone. How I miss those summer salads! I had almost forgotten about winter salads, usually opting to put my cold season veggies in warming soups and stews. But then I had lunch with some friends who served the most delicious salad alongside soup on a chilly day. What a great reminder that winter salads can be just as tasty as the summer ones!

At this time of year the markets are full of beautiful winter veggies, many of which go well in salads. Spinach, beets, fennel, broccoli, and cauliflower are all good raw and can be added to a bowl of greens for a simple, and healthy, salad. Roasted veggies, such as red peppers and Brussel sprouts, also make great additions to a winter-time salad. The same goes for winter fruits, especially pears, apples, and clementines. Nuts, plentiful in Italy during the winter, add the perfect crunch. Combined with good leafy greens (thankfully available year round), some local cheese and a flavorful dressing, the result is a cold weather salad every bit as wonderful as a summer one. Hearty enough to be a lunch-time meal on their own, winter salads also pair well alongside a soup, pasta or roasted meat.

Starting with a base of leafy greens, these combinations are my winter favorites:

Pear with gorgonzola and chopped roasted pecans

Toasting the pecans makes them even better in this salad. A gorgonzola dolce is perfect paired with the nuts and pears.

Beets with shaved parmesan, pecans and tiny bits of preserved lemon peel. Pecorino works well too in place of parmesan. No time to roast beets? Many markets sell them packaged and already cooked.

A friend brought me a jar of candied lemon peel from Poland. It adds a perfect zing to a beet salad.

Shaved fennel, avocado, red onion and clementines

Red leaf lettuce with pear, pecorino fresca, and walnuts. Apple works well in this combination too.

Look for perfectly ripe pears and a good fresh pecorino for this salad. The better the cheese, the better the salad!

As for dressing, something with a bit of sweetness goes well with winter salads, especially those with fruit or beets. I like to mix equal parts of Dijon mustard, honey, my favorite olive oil, and either lemon juice or white wine vinegar plus a touch of salt and coarse ground pepper. This mixture goes well with any of the above combinations.

Thanks to my friend Susan for reminding me how tasty a winter salad can be!

Ending with this image - keeping the Ukrainian people in my thoughts and in my heart

No-Fuss Holiday Entertaining

This is a busy time of year! The days between Thanksgiving and the New Year are filled with activities -shopping, decorating, holiday baking, and dinners just for starters. For me, these weeks have also included a couple of out-of-town visitors, two quick trips out of town, and the birthdays of four friends. It has been a happy whirlwind as every week seemed to include a gathering or a short trip.

With all this activity, entertaining can either be a joy or it can cause stress. And stress is no fun! To keep the holidays fun and avoid entertaining burn-out, opting for a no-fuss approach is the way to go. No-fuss means that most of what is served can be purchased or prepared in advance with a minimum of actual cooking. That way, the effort goes into choosing a good mix of items with a variety of tastes and textures, presenting them in a visually appealing way, pouring something festive to drink and then relaxing with the guests. This is just the approach I used for the small gathering that I recently hosted. My no-fuss choice was to create a festive cheese board for an aperitivo celebration. No cooking required!

Here are some ideas for putting together a tasty cheese board.

Herbed goat cheese - tangy, creamy, spicy and store bought

First, choose a variety of cheeses, even better if they are local specialties. For a light cocktail hour, an ideal combination is one soft cheese and one that is medium or hard. For a more substantial appetizer add a third cheese. Since my gathering was a pre-dinner aperitivo, I kept things light with just two cheeses.

I purchased rounds of a creamy herb-crusted goat cheese (2 varieties, chive and red pepper) at the local grocery. They paired well with a wedge of good quality pecorino fresca from one of Lucca’s specialty cheese shops. A bit of jam or honey alongside the pecorino added a bit of flavor complexity.

The twisted shape gives these bread sticks an added visual boost

Next, some type of bread to go with the cheese. Using a variety of shapes, sizes, and forms makes the presentation more interesting.

Crackers are easier than fresh bread as there is no last minute slicing and the crispness holds up well with just about any cheese. For my board I purchased some pretty bread stick twists and two types of crackers.

These marinated green olives are salty and a bit briny, they complement the cheeses nicely.

Now, add in some salty and stronger flavors. Good olives are perfect. Marinated small tomatoes or cornichons work well too. For a more hearty appetizer tray, some flavorful meats are a good addition. Prosciutto or salami would be typical Italian choices.

Next comes fruit. Grapes always go well with cheese. Added bonus - they look great on the platter! Apples or pears would have been another good choice (but grapes don’t require any slicing and can be put out well ahead of time, making them the perfect no-fuss choice). Dried fruit adds additional flavor, color, and texture. Dried apricots worked especially well with the pecorino.

Last, some sweet flavors. In this case I used candied walnuts, the only thing that actually required me to cook (if melting sugar and tossing in the nuts really counts as cooking). The combination of sweet and crunchy was a good contrast to the salty olives and creamy cheese. A small cup of honey to drizzle over the pecorino added another layer of sweet flavor.

Something bubbly to toast with comes next. Prosecco is ideal for an aperitivo and is the perfect choice for any celebration.

Start with a simple cutting board or platter, add a pedestal dish for height, and begin layering foods until you are happy with the presentation.

Once all the foods are chosen, the next consideration is presentation. This is the fun and creative part; a chance to tap into your inner Martha Stewart!

Cutting boards, platters, and trays can all serve as a base for a cheese board. I don’t have a fancy cheese board, but my IKEA wooden cutting board worked just fine as a base for the grapes and cheeses. For some height variation, a small pedestal plate on, or alongside, the cutting board adds a bit of “oomph” to the presentation. Tall breadsticks standing upright in a glass do the same.

Color and texture are also important. Two colors of grapes, one green and one red, colorful herbs topping the goat cheese, and a combination of creamy and firm cheeses is a good start. A halved pomegranate provided color variation, contrasting texture, and served as a space filler on the cheese board. Plus it was a sparkly seasonal fruit. Additional color and texture came from the dried apricots.

Pomegranates are “jewels” that add sparkle to a cheese board

A variety of plates, bowls, and boards can be positioned alongside the main board to expand the spread. No need for everything to match! And no special tableware is needed, just mix and match whatever you have available (though having some good cheese knives is a big help; I borrowed some from a friend). And a pretty table cloth always helps to set the stage.

Ready to serve !

With everything in place I was able to enjoy my guests with no worry about keeping things warm or fussing over serving. All I had to do was pour the Prosecco (and truth be told, a friend volunteered for that job!).

There you have my strategies for no-fuss holiday entertaining. What tricks do you use for stress-free parties at this time of year?

With New Year’s Eve right around the corner, another no-fuss cheese board just may be in my future.

Happy New Year! Buon Anno !

The Artisans and Shopkeepers of Chiasso Barletti

Little touches like a basket of flowers add to the charm of Chiasso Barletti

Tucked away just a bit off the main drag of Via Fillungo in Lucca lies the small vicolo (alley) of Chiasso Barletti. Home to a collection of small artisan workshops and wonderful negozi (shops), it is one of the few completely pedestrian lanes in town. That makes it the perfect place both to “vedere le vetrine” (window shop) and to “fare shopping” (go shopping - the Italians often use the English word shopping in this context). With the holidays approaching, shopping is certainly on my mind and Chiasso Barletti is sure to be one of my first stops.

The vicolo itself is interesting year round with its old doors, cobbled streets, outdoor displays of goods and art, plants, newsstand headlines, and even interesting bits of art dangling overhead. Most recently that has included a collection of colorful wooden cutouts of houses and suns; this week they’ve added Christmas decorations above the street and all along the lane. In addition to being one of my favorite shopping streets, its character also makes it my favorite detour when walking though town.

Copper pans on display in the shop Chocolat

It has been good to watch new shops put down roots here over the past few years. Each shop offers something unique and shows off the best of Lucca’s art and culture in its own way. Several of the workshops offer a chance to see an artist at work, something that makes owning one of their pieces even more special.

This collection of shops have inviting goods, enchanting and ever changing window displays, personal touches, and a warmth that draws you into to the shops and makes you want to stay awhile. The friendliness of the owners makes it even more wonderful. Stop by and chat for awhile!

Here is a sample of my favorite shops in Chiasso Barletti. First, the artisan workshops:

It’s always enjoyable to see an artist at work. Here, Stefano makes beautiful ceramic pieces.

Rossoramina offers beautiful hand painted ceramics and table linens. Step inside and watch Federica and Stefano as they create everything from tiny espresso cups and larger mugs to plates and platters as well as decorative pieces. Their designs use color and pattern in eye-catching ways. A set of their smaller size coffee cups (a perfect size for a macchiato) sits in my china cabinet and is a joy to use. This is a great go-to place for special home goods and for gifts at any time of year.

Next door, find hand-crafted jewelry at the studio of Elena Camilla Bertellotti.

This is another place where you can see artisans at work as they use their tools to create contemporary jewelry in silver and brass (or gold by special request).

The pieces are unique and the window display always makes me stop to admire the newest necklaces, rings, and earrings.

Just across the way, you can sometimes catch the artist painting at Maria Guida Studio d’Arte. Her work is both colorful and whimsical and always makes me smile. This is another great place for artwork and gifts that are unique to Lucca.

In addition to the artisan workshops, there are other special shops along this alleyway. Here are my favorites:

Chocolat, the tastiest shop in Chiasso Barletti

The tastiest shop in Chiasso Barletti is Chocolat. Not only can you find beautiful creations in chocolate here but also a variety of caramelle (candies) and loose teas. They also create whimsical window displays that change to reflect seasonal events and holidays. Their Christmas windows are especially delightful.

I love to buy table decorations in chocolate here (like their oh-so-Italian Easter Chickens) or small bags of chocolate truffles as hostess gifts. After all, one can never go wrong with chocolate, right?

Elisabetta Santi has worked in affari di cappelli (the hat business) for many years. But when the legendary Lucchese hat shop where she worked sadly closed she decided it was time to open her own shop and so created Santi punto. She opened in Chiasso Barletti during the pandemic. What a leap of faith that must have been!

Her shop sells gorgeous hats for women and men as well as scarfs, bags, coats, and umbrellas. They are artfully arranged inside the shop as well as in colorful window displays. This is the go to spot for summer sun hats, warm winter hats, rain hats, and year-round fashionable hats. Elisabetta makes her colorful hats and collections of umbrellas look like art.

Last, but definitely not least, is one of my favorite places in Lucca - Etta’s Bookshop. Run by the delightful Julia (and named after her cat Etta), the shop sells English language books and lots of fun things for book lovers. It is a cozy, friendly place - everything that a neighborhood bookshop should be.

There are many English speakers here in Lucca and Etta’s bookstore has quickly built a devoted fan base, myself included. A quick wave from Julia as I pass her shop brightens any day considerably. Even better is to stop in, chat a bit, browse, and head home with a new literary treasure (or a mind-candy guilty pleasure). Often I will do an informal “orientation walk” with newcomers to Lucca (if you’re a blog reader coming to Lucca for a long stay I am happy to do this!) and Etta’s Bookshop is always a stop on the tour.

I walk through Chiasso Barletti nearly everyday, often going out of my way just because I enjoy the atmosphere here (and the lack of automobiles). There is always something new to see in the changing window displays, the vignettes outside of storefronts, the flowers along the lane, the decorations overhead. It’s fun to see the shopkeepers, a small community of their own making, chatting outside their shops. It is especially wonderful at this time of year, with a red carpet rolled out down the center of the alley, little trees decorated with ribbons on the walls, and holiday colors in all the shop windows. It’s the perfect spot for some holiday shopping!

One of my all-time favorite window displays at Chocolat.

Note: No paid advertising here - these are just a few of my favorite places!

November

November is a gentle month here in Lucca. The tourists, who returned this summer and lingered into September and October, have mostly returned to their homes. Lucca Comics and Games, smaller than usual this year but still bringing lots of costumed visitors to town over the Halloween weekend, has come and gone. We may have given up our summer Aperol Spritzes in favor of deep red wines but we are still enjoying outdoor seating at cafes. I am thankful for the ones that have set up heaters so that we can continue to sip a morning cappuccino or an evening aperitivo outside in a pretty piazza.

Of course the very best part of November is the explosion of color throughout Lucca. A walk along Le Mura (the ancient wall surrounding the historic center of town) is a kaleidoscope of changing views. The wall makes a complete circuit, so that some parts face north, others south, still others east or west. Each section is planted with different types of trees and receives varied amounts of sun and shade, so the type of foliage varies as does the progress of color change and the dropping of leaves. In November, the reds, golds, yellows, and browns provide a complex palette of hues. They contrast with the evergreen pine trees, the green of grass and moss, and the ever changing skies.

Along the southern stretch of the wall.

November walks along the wall engage other senses as well - the sound of dried leaves crunching under foot (or the squish of wet ones on rainy days) and the gentle touch of leaves drifting overhead like a colorful snow storm. But beware the less gentle feel of a chestnut falling on your head! And as a bonus - the distant sound of church bells ringing gives many of my November walks a pleasing soundtrack.

A view towards the Church of St. Gemma, outside the walls of Lucca.

Not all the colorful action takes place on the walls. From the walls, the views out over the larger city of Lucca are also full of fall beauty. And those distant hills!

Distant hills make a dramatic backdrop to the walls northern section.

Throughout town the season is changing too. A walk through the botanic gardens is enchanting at this time of year. The trees ringing Piazza Napoleone are changing colors too. Not all the color is on the trees - colorful scarfs are wrapped around the necks of everyone to ward off the chilly weather.

Piazza Napoleone

Street vendors are beginning to roast chestnuts, a smell that hints of winter just around the corner. And while many of the Americans here are beginning to plan Thanksgiving dinners (we are oh so thankful that we can gather together this year), local shops are already beginning to display Christmas goods (I am not ready for that yet!)

Fall in the Orto Botanico (Botanic Garden)

November here is so lovely - the chilly mornings, the long hours of dusk, the mild temperatures, the colorful trees, even the scattered rain showers. Lucca continues to enchant.