Taking Tea

While visiting, and now living most of the year in, Italy I have learned to appreciate good coffee – a foamy morning cappuccino, a fragrant afternoon macchiato.  I have even learned to drink a straight espresso on occasion, providing it is laced with plenty of sugar.  

A breakfast tea in Florence at the hotel Morandi alla Crocetta

But, thanks to an Irish mother and grandmother, I was raised on tea. They firmly believed that there was no problem in life that was too big to be solved over a cup of tea, especially when served with sugar, milk, and a side of something sweet.

 They left a lasting legacy - I still love a good cup of hot tea.  It is the way I begin every morning.  When I travel I love to find a hotel with a good morning breakfast tea service. It starts the day off right. 

But “taking tea” is so much more than just a way to start the day.  Tea is an event! One thing to remember - it is nearly criminal to order tea without something sweet to go along with it because, as a British transplant to Lucca once told me, “without some cake your tea is just too wet”.   Words of wisdom!

While Italy does not have as much of a tea tradition as some places, there are several spots where, in addition to great coffee, pots of tea are served along with a pastry or a slice of cake. One such spot is Cafe Manon Lescaut in Piazza Cittadella. When my British friend Judy came to visit she was delighted with the afternoon tea there (pictured below).

These days one of my favorite places to take tea in Lucca is the H&G Coffee Lounge.  Don’t let the name fool you, it isn’t all about the coffee.  At H&G they also brew lovely pots of tea and describe tea as a “perfectly codified ritual”.  The loose leaf tea comes in a stoneware vessel alongside a little timer so that the brewing time is just right.  And they have a selection of tasty cakes to go with.  Best of all tea is served in a pretty room with comfy chairs and quiet music.  Unlike the Italian habit of quickly downing a coffee, here you can linger with your pot of tea. Sitting at H&G on a rainy afternoon, with a good book to read and a hot cup of tea, is a joy.

 One of my favorite things to do when I travel is to find a place, simple or elegant, to have tea.  I’ve taken tea in various US, Canadian, and European cities. Below are photos of some of my favorites. Top row: Lauduree in Paris (left and middle), Cassandras Cup Tea Room, near Jane Austen’s cottage in Chawton, England (right). Bottom row: Gilli Cafe in Florence, souvenirs from The Empress in Victoria, Canada, and (bottom right) the very elegant tea room at the Four Seasons Gresham Palace in Budapest. Each place had its own character and charm.

One of my all-time favorite teas was on board a Viking Ocean Cruise.  The ship had a bright and welcoming tea room that served a daily high tea.  Taking tea in their beautiful tea salon definitely made me feel spoiled! I could have gone every afternoon on the cruise, but oh the calories!

  When I return to Albuquerque to visit my family you can bet I will spend one afternoon at the Saint James Tea Room. They serve a high tea complete with savories, scones, lemon curd, and sweets.  The Saint James ranks right up there with the best tea rooms in Europe. The setting, with cozy alcoves, beautiful china, and a sweet gift shop, is part of the fun.

I am trying to introduce my granddaughters to the concept of tea.  I started with a simple home tea party a few years ago - complete with hats and Oreos. Tea manners were definitely in the infancy stage.

They’ve now graduated to the Saint James.  Let’s just say that dressing up for tea, using soft voices, and appropriate tea conversation is still a work in progress.  This was tea with giggles.

Do you have as favorite tea spot?  I’d love to see photos on the Two Parts Italy facebook page!

Tea and a Marionberry scone on the coast of Oregon

Christmas Windows

Christmas has arrived in Lucca.

Throughout the historic center there are signs of the holiday everywhere. Piazzas large and small are home to Christmas trees, oversized ornaments, and beautiful light displays. The streets glow with overhead sparkle. It is just cold enough to feel like winter, but not too cold to be out at night enjoying the festive atmosphere.

And the shops!

Shopping is all the more fun for the whimsically decorated windows and elegant indoor displays. One of my favorite window displays is in the historic shop Taddeucci (below).

Instead of words, today I will let the photos do the talking with pictures of Lucca’s wonderful shop windows.

Christmas for grownups at bar Des Artes !

Elegant Christmas decorations from Casantica, Lucca

Babbo Natale even paid a visit to this shop, delighting all the kids that passed by.

Traditional Christmas Panettone in tins designed by Dolce & Gabbana decorate the window of a local butcher.

Changing Seasons in Tuscany: Autumn into Winter

Sometimes the calendar plays tricks.  October, an autumn month, seemed more like late summer in Tuscany this year.  The temperatures were mild, there was plenty of sunshine, and outdoor cafes were still in full swing.  It was hard to even imagine cold weather.

Blue skies and fall color along Lucca’s walls.

Colorful umbrellas brighten dreary days.

But then the end of daylight savings time arrived, bringing shorter days and early nightfall. By mid-November temperatures were much cooler and the rains began.  This should not have been a surprise, November is typically a very wet month, but it still seemed to catch us all off guard.

Out came the colorful umbrellas, making the city cheerful despite some dark, drizzly days. It finally felt like fall. 

Now, just two weeks later, it is still officially autumn, at least until the winter solstice arrives on December 21. But it feels like winter.  The days just keep getting shorter and it is cold! Really cold. And though this transition happens every year, somehow this year it seems more of a shock.  

There is no room for complaint.  The fall color is gorgeous.  The fog and rain have a mysterious beauty.  Italy needs the rain. The umbrellas are colorful.  The cold air is invigorating and walking atop the walls of Lucca at dusk on a chilly evening is inspiring. Crisp late autumn beauty is everywhere.

Cranberries are nearly impossible to find in an Italian market. These were expensive, but worth it for a traditional apple cranberry Thanksgiving pie.

Late November brought “American-ish” Thanksgiving celebrations.  They began with a minor miracle - I actually found fresh cranberries in Italy! Hard to find here, they are an essential ingredient when I make an apple-cranberry pie and it just doesn’t feel like Thanksgiving without that pie!

On Thanksgiving day, a small gathering at the home of friends was a joy. There were prosecco filled glasses, a wonderful dinner with a not-quite-traditional (but very delicious) stuffed chicken breast, all the traditional trimmings, and lots of laughter. 

We were all reminded of the many blessings we have found here in Italy.  And while I always miss my family back in the US at this time of year, I appreciate that they remain with me in spirit and that modern technology helps keep us connected.  Not to mention that soon a big jet will whisk me off for a visit to NM where I can hug them in person!

 And now Lucca is gearing up for the winter holiday season.  Chestnuts are roasting and all around town Christmas decorations are going up.  This year it seems the city of Lucca is going all out, with some new and exciting displays filling the piazzas with Christmas spirit. 

 For the next few weeks I will happily don my winter clothing to go outdoors. I will spend time walking up on the walls and through town, crunching through the last of the fall leaves, enjoying the holiday lights and sparkle, watching the ice skaters in Piazza Napoleone, visiting churches with lovely Nativity displays, and enjoying the change of seasons from autumn to winter.    

A chilly autumn afternoon on the walls of Lucca.

From Villa Bertolli to Villa Santo Stefano: An Italian Story of Olives, Grapes, and Families

Most Italian fairytales begin with these words: C’era una volta (loosely translated as “once upon a time”). Today I have a bit of a true-life fairytale to tell, so I will start with those words.

C’era una volta, around 160 years ago, when Francesco and Caterina Bertolli tended to their olives, pressed them, and sold the olive oil out of a small shop in the San Donato neighborhood of Lucca in Tuscany. They also grew grapes on their land and made a little wine, though the oil was their main product.

In the late 1800’s, some Bertolli family members emigrated to the United States and began to import the family’s olive oil, making Bertolli the first Italian olive oil to establish as US presence. Eventually the business in Lucca passed down through the generations. The company was nationalized by Mussolini in the 1930’s and by 1972 the family no longer owned the company or the rights to the Bertolli name for their olive oil. Not all fairytales have happy endings! The family did still own a lovely piece of property in the hills above Lucca, the Villa Bertolli, which had olive trees and around 1 hectare (about 2.5 acres) of vineyard. The fairytale doesn’t end yet though, for there is another chapter yet to come.

A view of the valley from the former Villa Bertolli

The tale continues in 2001 when a German couple, Wolfgang Reitzle and Nina Ruge, purchased the historic property from the Bertolli family. Originally they thought of it as a vacation property, and the property certainly had fairytale-like qualities that would make it perfect as a vacation spot. But Mr. Reitzle soon became interested in both the olive oil and the small production of wine on the estate. Since purchasing the property he has expanded it to include 12 hectares of land, made a serious study of winemaking, hired some very talented winemakers, and become the proprietor of a thriving vineyard and winery, now renamed Villa Santo Stefano. The name comes from the historic church of Santo Stefano which is just up the road from the villa. Today the villa not only produces wonderful wines but also their own label of extra virgin olive oil, a nod to those long ago Bertollis. The winery also gives tours and tastings, by appointment, and also offers guest lodging.

Villa Santo Stefano is an elegant estate. And the views! The property overlooks vineyards and valleys, has graceful covered pergolas, fountains, and immaculate landscaping. I would happily do any job needed, from trimming the flowers to sweeping out the cellars, if only I could live on site!

One of the restored buildings, now home to guest suites, at Villa Santo Stefano

Petra, sharing information about the wines of Vila Santo Stefano (the old rattan wrapped bottles at the bottom are left over from the Bertolli’s)

On a recent Sunday, a small group of friends and I made a visit to the villa. We were escorted through the property by the very knowledgeable estate manager, Petra Pforr.

Petra shared the history of the estate, the grape varietals grown, the evolution of the wine production, along with the details of Villa Santo Stefano’s production philosophy and processes. The information she shared was fascinating!

Several of the estate buildings have been restored and include exquisite, luxurious guest spaces. The suites range from cozy yet upscale mini-apartments to a large villa in the former barn. The large villa has multiple bedrooms, an elegant living room, a spectacular kitchen, and a large outdoor space with a private pool. Oh to be a guest there!

The winery may be a relatively small operation, producing around 50,000 bottles per year, but it is an incredibly high-tech one. No dark cellars or dusty old bottles here. No seen-better-days barrels. Each part of the facilty is modern and spacious. Computers control the temperature and humidity to create optimum conditions for maturing wines. The steel tanks gleam and clear glass rods along the sides of the tanks give a sneak peak of the red and rosato wines fermenting inside. I’ve never thought of steel vats as beautiful before, but the ones as Villa Santo Stefano seem like works of art crossed with modern scientific instruments.

The cellar is large with vaulted brick ceilings and soft lighting. Lining the space are beautiful French oak barrels, about 1/3 of which are replaced each year. That is a costly undertaking but essential in maintaining the quality of the wines. And quality is key at Villa Santo Stefano.

Of course the most important part of a winery is the wines themselves - and Villa Santo Stefano did not disappoint. During the tasting, in the estates beautiful banquet room, Petra discussed each wine including the grapes used and its unique characteristics.

The wines we sampled included a delicate pale pink Rosato (Luna), a crisp Vermentino (Gioia), and 3 different reds (Volo, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, and Alicante grapes), Sereno (an 80% Sangiovese blend, a Super Tuscan) and Loto (a Cabernet, Merlot, and Petit Verdot blend).

Loto is considered the Villa’s signature wine. It was the first one produced at Santo Stefano in 2006. Lots is a lovely wine, deep red in color with just the right fullness and dryness. I could tell you I tasted berries, smoke, and vanilla but that would only mean that I read the brochure! I just know that the first taste made me smile and want to sip some more. I liked all the wines we tasted, but this is the one I took home with me - though I may have to go back in summer for some of the Rosato, which would be the perfect crisp summer wine. Then again, the Vermentino and the other two reds were really good too. I think each of my friends had a different favorite. We definitely all carried some home with us.

A visit to Villa Santo Stefano is a treat. The setting is spectacular, the guest suites drool-worthy, the production areas high-tech yet with the personal touch of the winemakers. The vats and the barrel room are the stuff of fairytales for wine lovers. Thanks so much to Petra for sharing her knowledge and love of wine and of this very special property! Thanks also go to the long ago Bertolli family and the current Reitzle - Ruge family for sharing their property and their stories.

For more information: www.villa-santostefano.it or Petra.pforr@villa-santostefano.it

A Fountain of Beauty in Lucca

I probably have more photos of her than of any other subject in Lucca - photos taken from every angle, in every light, in every season.  She is a fascinating subject and one of Lucca’s most graceful landmarks.  She is The Naiade or Water Nymph.

 The Naiade rests atop one of Lucca’s many fountains, built in the 1800’s to bring fresh water to the city via Nottolini’s aqueduct. 

Some of the fountains are simple utilitarian structures but are few are quite decorative, none more so than the Naiade fountain. 

She was sculpted by Luigi Camolli from a design by Nottolini, one of Lucca’s most famous architects and sculptors.  She turns an ordinary fountain into a work of art.

The fountain itself is a marvel.  At the base is a large bathtub-like marble basin resting on claw feet and decorated with lion’s heads.  Above the large basin is a rectangular marble column with water spigots on 3 sides, each one placed above a small basin.  This is where so many Lucchese come to fill containers with fresh water direct from the hills beyond Lucca.  Locals swear this water is much better, and much more tasty, than either tap or bottled water.  Some even have a preferred spigot, always filling their bottles from one side of the fountain.   More than just a place to get water, this is also a gathering spot and a place for social connections.

 Above the fountain sits the Naiade who is commonly known by a much less proper nickname.  To locals she is “La Pupporona” which loosely translates to “The Busty One”, so called because of her one exposed breast (in Tuscan dialect the word puppora means breast).  That breast so scandalized a long-ago bishop that he tried to have the statue removed.  Fortunately he did not succeed! 

 The Pupporona is elegant, with softly draped folds in her garments, curvy hips, and perfectly coiffed hair.  She is made even more striking by the backdrop offered by the surrounding buildings, including the oche colored Church of San Salvatore (also known as the Church of the Misericordia).  The piazza where she resides is also named Salvatore, but don’t be surprised to hear it called Piazza della Pupporona, such is her fame.    

 Much loved by locals, she is occasionally adorned with a red scarf, a symbol of support for female victims of domestic violence.  Once, back in 2017, she was vandalized when someone drew a mustache on her face during the night.  Che peccato! The damage was quickly repaired.  I don’t believe the culprits were ever caught, but the vandalism caused quite an uproar. 

 On one of my first visits to Lucca I snapped a photo of the Naiade long before I knew the story behind her creation.  I just knew that she was lovely and she quickly became the representative image of Lucca in my memory.  Today, that photo is one I use as the symbol for Two Parts Italy and which accompanies each Monday morning email to subscribers.  It is still one of my all time favorite photos.  Be sure to stop by this small piazza when you visit Lucca. And don’t forget to fill your water bottle!

The statue of the Pupporona at Christmas time