Rue des Teinturiers in Avignon

Last week’s post began a walk through the charming city of Avignon in France’s Provence region.  This week, let’s continue walking, this time along my favorite street in Avignon, the Rue des Teinturiers. The walk begins not far from the Les Halles market, after crossing Rue des Lices, and ambles towards the old city walls.

 Teinturier is French for dyer, the Rue des Teinturiers is the Street of the Dyers. This cobblestone street, which runs along a small branch of the river Sorgue, is a mix of 21st century artistic, hippy vibe and the lingering spirt of the historic cloth guilds that were a big part of Avignon’s economic life in the 15th through 18th centuries. The canal provided the water source needed for dyeing silk in the 15th century and dyeing brightly colored cotton fabrics in later centuries.

One of the few remaining water wheels along the canal

The streets here are cobblestone, the large Sycamore trees create shade, and the old buildings and stone walls add to the sense of this being a different city and a different time from the rest of Avignon.  The last vestiges of the dyers are evident in the 4 water wheels that remain along the canal (once upon a time there were 23).  The mechanisms of the waterwheels are fascinating and almost seem like art.

The ruins of the Convent of the Cordeliers, with just the bell tower standing.

A walk here begins at Rue des Lices, crossing over to the start of Rue des Teinturiers. Here the ruins of a bell tower is all that remains of the Convent of the Cordeliers. 

Further down the street is the Chapelle des Pénitents Gris (Chapel of the Grey Prenitents).  The oldest part of the chapel dates from 1631 with additions ongoing through the 18th century. 

The Order of the Grey Penitents is even older than the chapel, established in the early 1200’s by King Louis VIII. 

Famous for a miracle that occurred during the floods of 1433, today the chapel is still used to celebrate that miracle and for religious services.  Enjoy the chapel from the street; the interior is only open during worship times. 

The Chapel of the Grey Penitents

 All along the Rue des Teinturiers are cafes, restaurants, galleries, and shops.  Sitting stream side with a cup of coffee and gazing at the old waterwheels provides a peaceful break from the busier parts of Avignon. The exception is in July when the theater festival brings lots of people to this tucked away part of the city.

Along the street, the old buildings have interesting windows and doors. The small homes sit across the stream, reached by little bridges.

There are also a series of carved stone pieces along the street.  These are not ancient symbols but more recent carvings by local sculptors. Meant as parking stops, they make for fun viewing and in a pinch can serve as a low bench. 

The walk ends at a busy street near the old city walls.  Best to turn around and walk again down the Rue des Teinturiers, headed back toward the center of Avignon.

You’ll be sure to spot some things you missed earlier!

Can you spot this creature above one of the shops along Rue des Teinturiers?

A Walk Through Avignon

Much as I love living in Italy, I also enjoy traveling to other places. France is a particular favorite, and Avignon, in the Provence Region of France, is a wonderful city to visit.  I was first introduced to the Avignon many years ago when I spent a few days there before embarking on a river cruise on the Rhône and Saône Rivers, headed north through central France.  I’ve returned a couple of times since and always find it fascinating for its history, culture, architecture, beautiful squares and local cuisine.  And while there are many museums, churches, and historic sites to visit in Avignon, a good place to begin when visiting the city is simply by taking a walk.

Here are some of the highlights for first time visitors on a walk through Avignon:

The Pont Saint-Bénézet is a medieval bridge famous as the subject of the French song Sur le pont d’Avignon.  Can you hum it?  “Sur le pont d’Avignon, l’on y danse, l’on y danse”.  Only four of its arches stand today (out of the original 22), ending in the middle of the river Rhône.  It is one of the most recognizable symbols of Avignon and a UNESCO World Heritage site.  View it for free from the riverbank or pay a fee to walk (or better yet dance) on it.  After viewing the bridge, it is a short walk through the massive city walls and into the historic center.

Pont Saint-Bénézet, Avignon (photo from Pixabay)

The Palace of the Popes is a huge Gothic building in the historic center of Avignon.  Built in the mid 1300’s, it served as the residence for 9 Popes during the years when the papacy moved from Rome to Avignon.  Today it is a museum and a UNESCO World Heritage site. 

I mostly admire the palace from the outside, standing in front of it in the large Place (Square) du Palais.  The square has with wonderful views of the palace and the cathedral with the gold statue of Mary on top.  First time visitors might take a break from their walk around Avignon, buy a ticket and go Inside to find frescoes, chapels, and interesting architecture but no furnishings.  Guided tours (or self-guided with an app) help explain the rooms and the history. 

The Place de l’Horloge (Clock Tower) is Avignon’s central, and very lively, town square.  The large square is shaded by trees and ringed with cafes, restaurants, and wonderful architecture. Look for both the City Hall and the Opera House here as well as just a glimpse of the clock tower which gives the square its name. 

Place de l’Horloge

This is also where the beautiful, old, carousel is found.  If traveling with kids, this two level carousel will delight  them.  Even without children, it is fun to watch the carousel go round and round.

Church of Saint Pierre

 A small, charming square sits in front of the Church of St. Pierre, one of the oldest and smallest churches in Avignon.  The façade is remarkable for its ornate carvings, twin spires, and stunning wooden doors.  There is an impressive bell tower too.  A small art gallery and the Restaurant L’Epicerie is also found in this square. It’s a great place for lunch or dinner. In good weather the outdoor seating provides a view of the church’s facade.

From Place St. Pierre it is a short walk (past some good shopping) to Les Halles, Avignon’s fabulous food hall.  Making a detour through Les Halles is a gourmet dream.  Also a good spot for lunch with its many little eateries.

Place Pie, with Les Halles on the left

A walk though Avignon includes some of the city’s many beautiful doors and windows.

Some of the windows are old and shuttered, some have pretty window boxes. Others are the famous painted windows.  These trompe l’oeil windows are a connection to the theater festival held each summer.  So don’t forget to look up at these “false windows” to see the some fun scenes.

The last stop on an introductory walk through Avignon is my favorite spot in town – the Rue des Teinturiers (Street of the Dyers). 

Though a part of Avignon, the Rue des Teinturiers feels like a different place and a different century.  I will write more about this fascinating street in an upcoming post.

This pretty door opens to the B&B Le Limas, a small but charming place to stay in Avignon

Keeping Busy on Cold Winter Days in Tuscany

Watching kids enjoy the giostra (carousel) on nice days is a good pastime.

It’s important to make the most of the cold January days in Lucca, even the rainy ones. 

While the heavy periods of rain have definitely kept me indoors at times, lighter rains and clear periods see me heading out for walks, window shopping, photography, meeting up with friends, watching the giostra (carousel) go round and round, and looking for general inspiration.

The monthly antiques market was a great diversion in between rain showers on a cold and cloudy day earlier this month.  Many of the vendors are the same from month to month, but a scavenger hunt to search for new and unusual finds is always fun.  

Cooking is a good rainy-day activity and, after finding some really nice guanciale in the market, I’ve been working on perfecting my pasta carbonara skills. But sometimes eating out is a good rainy-day activity too.

Pasta is cold weather comfort food and Macelleria Pucci is a butcher shop / restaurant that makes a great southern Italian spaghetti with polpettini (little meatballs). Lunch there with friends was a treat as it is unusual to find this dish in northern Italy. I requires lots of rainy afternoon walks to balance out those pasta calories!

Catching up with friends after being away from Italy over the holidays has been great too.  Lucca has lots of cafes, perfect for meeting over a cup of coffee, pot of tea, or glass of wine.  The indoor cafes are warm and cozy and have led to some great chats about world issues with locals at the next tables.  It is always interesting to get the Italian perspective on US and World events.  And it is great for practicing my Italian.

 A stop at the Saturday flower market, on one of the few sunny days this past weekend, brought a touch of spring and some bright color into my apartment, a necessity on these winter days.

The Saturday flower market in Piazza San Michele is great in any season

One of my favorite winter cold weather activities is planning spring travel and I’ve been busy doing just that.  Spring in Emilia- Romagna and Umbria is a welcome thought on these cold days. And the planning is almost as much fun as the travel will be.

 My book club selection for the month is The Stolen Lady by Laura Morelli.  It has transported me to Florence in the late 1400s and Paris in the 1930s.  A great escape on a cold or cloudy day.

 And for real escapism, day dreaming about spring blossoms is hard to beat.  Photos can make the gray skies fade away and bring a reminder that spring is just around the corner.  I think that readers in the frigid parts of the US and Canada might appreciate these reminders as much as I do.  Stay warm everyone!

January

On one cold afternoon I had Via Sant’Andrea all to myself - something that never happens in warmer months

How to best describe January (Gennaio in Italian) in Lucca?   Certainly it is tranquilla (calm), especially after all of the December holiday activity.  January is a month without crowds.  Walking through the quiet town at the beginning of the new year is a treat.  It is as if January reclaims Lucca for the locals.

 This January arrived with some really cold temperatures and dark, moody skies.  Lliving in a 400+ year old brick building, and just above an unheated cantina (cellar), I really feel the cold.  Even indoors, a scarf, a fleece vest, and warm socks are standard wear.  As for bedtime, an old-fashioned hot water bottle works wonders. I admit that I miss the programmable thermostat in the US that makes my New Mexico condo toasty warm before I get out of bed in the mornings.

Going outside requires winter coats, thick scarfs, warm hats, and gloves even on the days when the skies are a beautiful clear blue.  Don’t be fooled into thinking that blue skies = warm weather.  Even when the skies are clear, it is cold outside. Especially on Lucca’s Medieval streets which get very little sun on winter days. Best to bundle up when going outside. 

Beautiful blue skies - but still really cold!

Ponce Mandarino

 When the wind blows or the rains come, as they have many days this month, it is hard to stay warm no matter how many layers you put on.  These are the January days that are perfect for staying indoors, reading, planning spring travel, and writing. We’ve had quite a few of these days this month.

Cold January weather requires hot drinks – a cappuccino (ask for it molto caldo), a thick hot chocolate (maybe with a touch of whipped cream), or, on an especially cold evening, a ponce mandarino which packs a lot of heat and just enough alcohol to clear the sinuses and warm the soul.

 Walking though town this past week, the streets were nearly empty. The outdoor café tables are mostly abandoned, waiting patiently for a sunny day and warmer temperatures.   Only a few brave souls sat outside, often clustered around a gas heater.  The weekend was a bit livelier, especially because the Antiques Market was in town. Even the damp, dark skies couldn’t keep people away from the monthly market.

Usually a busy cafe, this spot sits quiet and empty in cold January weather.

 Lucca’s historic walls are also quiet this time of year. Gone are the summertime crowds, the 4 person pedal-bikes, and the shorts-clad joggers. A few walkers are out, some mothers pushing prams with babies in warm buntings, and an occasional bicyclist. But the bare trees and nearly empty paths paint a picture of cold winter weather.

Along Corso Garibaldi, a street currently lined with leafless Magnolia trees, a close look reveals the beginning of the buds that will burst into bloom in about 6 weeks.   A welcome hint of spring.

The rest of January will be filled with quiet activities – I’ve joined a new book club as well as an Italian conversation group.  I have a stack of books waiting to be read.  I will embrace walks along the walls on crisp days and errands that take me though the quiet streets. 

Soon it will be February and Lucca will begin to buzz as we await the beginning of Carnevale.

Bare now, soon the wisteria will bloom above this terrace.

The Olive Press Kitchen (Formerly Extra Virgin Cooking Classes)

Chef Giuseppe at work

Here is a recipe for a wonderful day of cooking in Italy:

Start with Chef Giuseppe Mazzocchi (he makes the magic happen). You’ll meet Giuseppe, along with your small group of classmates, for a bit of shopping at Montecatini’s market. Here you’ll find fresh herbs, veggies, and just the right beans for soup. It’s a great way to start the day and learn about local ingredients.

This very old “hog-back” bridge spans the stream behind Il Molino

Next, spend the day at the historic molino (mill) where Giuseppe’s grandparents lived and worked. The mill property is over 600 years old and sits alongside a stream whose waters once powered the mill equipment.

Inside the old mill you’ll find a professional kitchen with lots of workspace. Here, under the chef’s guidance, you will prepare and cook authentic Italian dishes. If the day is chilly, there will be a fire burning in the kitchen’s large fireplace. Could there be a better atmosphere for cooking? I think not!

To make the atmosphere even better, enjoy some Prosecco while prepping ingredients and take a break to sample some regional olive oils and cheeses.

Later, when all the work is done, you’ll share a fabulous lunch with your classmates in the beautiful dining room, the spot which once housed the olive press. Today it is a rustic yet elegant space with a table large enough for all to gather. Giuseppe will select wines that pair perfectly with the food you’ve prepared. A member of the Italian Sommelier Association, he knows his wines and happily shares that knowledge during the meal.

A beautiful table setting adds to the enjoyment of lunch

Some of you may have done a class with Giuseppe at Extra Virgin Cooking when it was located inside the historic center of Lucca. Those classes were wonderful and inspired me to write an earlier blog post (from April 2022). With completion of the mill renovations, all of the classes moved out to Il Molino last summer. New location and a new name - The Olive Press Kitche. I was excited to experience the new location when, with a couple of friends, I signed up for a class this past October.

The cooking school is in the hills outside of Montecatini. Montecatini can be reached by train along the Florence - Lucca line. Coming from either Lucca or Florence, it is about 30 minutes to the Montecatini Centro stop. Once there, Giuseppe will meet you and it is just a short walk to the market. Classes include round trip transportation between Montecatini and Il Molino.

My October class took place on a chilly, rainy day so we enjoyed the fireplace while we prepared our first course, a Zuppa Frantoiana. This is a typical fall soup of vegetables and beans drizzled with the season’s fresh pressed olive oil.

We also prepared a beef based ragu to go with Gnudi, a light as a cloud ricotta and spinach dumpling. Shaping the gnudi takes practice and we all had fun learning the technique (but even more fun eating them at lunch).

Fall is funghi (mushroom) season, so we also made a risotto with several types of mushrooms, including porcinis.

I can almost smell these thyme scented mushrooms cooking!

Last, we made a wonderful classic Italian dessert - zabaglione. Rich with egg yolk, sugar, marsala wine, and whipped cream, it was topped with fresh berries. A perfect way to end our meal.

Everything about classes with The Olive Press Kitchen is special. From Giuseppe’s care and teaching, to the gorgeous setting, to the small group of students, to the shared meal of authentic foods and wines. For anyone interested in food, cooking, or just good eating, a day spent at the mill cooking with Giuseppe is a fabulous experience.

Classes are scheduled 3 days per week, 9 am to about 2:30 pm. All classes are in English. Cost (as of January 2025) is €130 per person.

Contact info: info@theolivepresskitchen.com

Website: theolivepresskitchen.com