This tiny alley has no name. It leads from Via Guinigi around to the back of my apartment building and through to Piazza Suffragio.

Today I Walked to the Mailbox: Quarantine Day 3,427

April 20, 2020 by Joanne Bartram in #italytravel, #lucca, Italian art architecture, Italy, Living in Italy, Lucca

Okay - so I exaggerate just a bit. It isn’t really day 3,427 of the quarantine lockdown here in Lucca. But some days it sure feels as though it is.

The days take on a sameness, which feels a bit like living in the film “Groundhog Day” (and who would have thought that possible at the beginning of my exciting Italian adventure?). It feels especially long because the tentative end date has just been pushed out again, this time from April 15 to the new tentative date of May 3. There is logic to this new date - the curve of disease cases has flattened but not quite enough to return to normal and there is fear that the April holidays will encourage too many big gatherings. These April events include Easter and the day after, which is also a national holiday, the Sunday after Easter when the celebration of Lucca’s liberation from Pisa takes place with all of its Medieval pageantry, Liberation Day on the 25th, marking the end of Nazi occupation in Italy, and right on to the first of May, which is another national holiday. So, waiting until May 3 to begin to loosen the restrictions makes sense.

Last year crowds gathered to celebrate the liberation of Lucca from Pisa in the 1300s. No such gatherings will take place this year.

The people I know are mostly in good spirits here and have taken to heart the two Italian sayings: Io Resto a Casa (I Stay at Home) and Andrà Tutto Bene (It Will All be OK). And yet, we are getting restless with days that center around mundane tasks masquerading as big outings - taking the trash out, going to the laundromat, grocery shopping. Worse, the days seem to go from “what can I have for breakfast” to “is it time for a coffee” to “oh good, it’s time for lunch” to “hey, is it too early for a cocktail” to “what’s for dinner” and, worst of all to “oh my gosh I’m out of cookies.” This focus on food (a natural side effect of combined anxiety, sadness, and inability to leave the house I’m told) is worse due to our marked decrease in outdoor activity and exercise. One can only walk circles in the house and hoist cans of tomatoes as ersatz weights so many times a day. We live in fear of gaining the Covid 15 (or should that be the Covid 19?).

A pretty terrace above old brick walls, out by my mailbox

Today, because I’m expecting a package, I made an excursion to my mailbox. There are two ways for me to get to the mailbox. I can go through the lobby of my building, down a hallway, out the room where the bikes are stored and then out the portone (big door) to the back of the building where the boxes are. This requires three door keys and a flashlight for the dark part of a hallway. Or, I can go out my front door, walk half a block down my pretty street, turn up a tiny covered alley (top photo), and through a pretty outdoor space to the back of my building. Option 2 is much more inviting!

The outdoor space behind my building is a hidden gem. It isn’t an official piazza and it has neither a name nor a designation on my map. But, like so many hidden corners here in Lucca, it is a fascinating and charming space.

Quintessentially Lucca, the small courtyard behind my building

There are balconies and large terraces to be seen, beautiful brick work, pretty and neatly tended front doors, graceful street lights, and mysterious old wooden doors.

What’s behind these old doors ? I keep thinking it would be a good spot for a table, some chairs, and an outdoor reading space. I don’t think my condo association would go for that idea though.

I enter through the small alley with an arched roof, at the other end of the space and just around a bend is the back of a little church (now used as an exhibit gallery).

Santa Giulia Church, from the back. This church sits across from the Boccherini Institute and is now used as an exhibit space.

Take a few steps further (permitted if I’m heading to the grocery story after checking the mail) and you get to two of my favorite views in Lucca - the Piazza Suffragio in front of the Boccherini institute to the right and the Vicolo dell’Altopascio to the left. All this just steps from my apartment’s mailbox.

I might still be in lockdown here, but most days I’ll make at least one trip out to check my mail. With scenes like this, the quarantine is a bit less difficult.

Wherever you are during this challenging time, I hope you are safe and hopeful. And I would love to see you here in Italy when the day comes that we can all travel once again. -post by Joanne

Looking down onto the Piazza Suffragio in front of the Boccherini Institue

French Rose’ wine at the market in Lucca

A French Market in an Italian Town

June 17, 2019 by Joanne Bartram in Italy, Italy travel, food, #italytravel, Lucca, Italian markets

On a recent spring morning, I woke up as usual in my apartment in Lucca, Italy. But by the afternoon, I had the sense that I’d been transported to a little town in France. The reason behind my confusion was the arrival of a French Market, which suddenly appeared in the aptly named Piazza Napoleone, right here in Lucca.

II love European markets and have been delighted to visit them in many cities. Although I am a confirmed lover of all things Italian, I must admit that most of my favorite markets have been in France.

The charming market in Uzes, France, 2014

In France, I especially loved the weekly outdoor market in the tiny town of Uzes, the large indoor market in Avignon, and a lively market with a whole street of olive vendors in the town of Charon sur Saone. Visiting each was a thrill for me, but I never expected to find a French market here in Lucca.

The Luccchese French Market was a “pop-up” market, here only for a long weekend in mid-May. How delightful to wander through a French bakery (with baguettes, brioche, and pastries baked right on site), a patisserie, and a whole stall of French biscuits and cookies.

There was also a colorful spice market and, of course, gorgeous French cheeses, tarts, and wines.

The spice vendor used this long-handled scoop to fill bags of spices.

In addition to the food booths, there were vendors selling a variety of French products. I browsed through stalls with French soaps, perfumes, linens, hats (or should I say chapeaux?), jewelry, and handbags.

The language was a mix of French accents and Italian words. Not a bad combination! And now I’m daydreaming about trips to France, past and future. One of the great things about living in Italy is that it puts all of Europe within easy reach. It’s time for me to plan some travel - who wants to come along? -Post by JMB

How delicious does this little tart look?

These banners represent Lucca and the three terziere into which it was divided in the 1400s- each named for the major church in the neighborhood (San Salvatore, San Paolino, and San Martino).

Lucca In the Year 1369

June 03, 2019 by Joanne Bartram in #lucca, Italian culture, #medievalitaly, History, Italy, Festivals Italy, Italy travel, #balestrieri, Lucca, Tuscany

Italians have long memories, especially when it comes to historic events and rivalries. The Lucchese are no exception. Each spring they celebrate several long-ago events - World War II Liberation Day and the feast of Santa Zita, for starters. One unique local celebration recalls the year 1369, when the city of Lucca gained its liberty from its most hated rival - Pisa (not by war, but by declaration of the Emperor Charles IV, in exchange for a large sum of money). Today’s rivalry with Pisa mostly involves soccer and the claim to who has the best city to visit or live in, but in 1369, achieving freedom from domination by a rival city state was huge. After that, Lucca fought hard to maintain its independence from all rivals, especially Pisa and Florence,

Fierce ladies - each with an arco lungo (long bow) — Fierce ladies - each with an *arco* *lungo* (long bow)

So, just how is this major historical event celebrated? Picture Medieval costumes, archers with long bows and cross bows, drummers and flag throwers. Add in city and church officials reading proclamations and lots of spectators,locals, tourists, and wide-eyed children, all watching history recreated in the square in front of the cathedral of San Martino, and you have an exciting and photo-worthy event.

Lanciatori di bandiera (flag throwers) - a crowd favorite as they toss their flags high into the air — *Lanciatori di bandiera* (flag throwers) - a crowd favorite as they toss their flags high into the air

The celebration of Lucca’s liberation from Pisa, on the Sunday following Easter, is one of my favorite annual events and one that, for me, says welcome to spring in Lucca, a city where history comes alive.

-post by JMB

Balestrieri with their cross bows (balestre) — *Balestrieri* with their cross bows (*balestre*)

The sounds of drums is a big part of the festival. These batteriste (drummers) come in all ages.

Italian Tax Codes and Back Roads

May 13, 2019 by Joanne Bartram in Living in Italy, Italy travel, #italytravel, Tuscany, Italy

There are many steps along the road to becoming Italian, or at least as Italian as “stranieri” (foreigners) can be. For me, one of the first “ah, now I really belong here” moments was when I received my codice fiscale, or tax code. That magic string of letters and numbers, uniquely mine, signified my existence here in Italy. Surely if one has a tax number he or she must be Italian, right?

The tax code is useful for longer term apartment rentals (technically required for rentals of more than 30 days, though not all landlords asked for mine). It’s an absolute necessity if signing an extended contract (one year or the more standard four-year contract) and for setting up bank and utility accounts. So, if planning a long stay in Italy, obtaining a codice fiscale is high on your to-do list.

One of the joys of wandering is finding views like this, as seen from Montecarlo.

There are two ways to obtain the codice fiscale. One is through the Italian consulate in your home country. The other is to apply for one during a stay in Italy, in the area where you plan to reside. In Lucca that means a trip to the nearby town of Guamo, about 15 minutes away by car. I recently went with my co-blogger to Guamo to apply for her codice fiscale. It was an easy process, taking about 30 minutes tops (we arrived right as the office opened to avoid a wait). Be prepared to speak in Italiano.

A monument on the campanile of the Badia (Monastery) di San Salvatore in Vorno

Because we were in and out of the office so quickly, we decided to spend the rest of the day wandering along back roads and ending up .... well .... wherever. Our first stop was in the small village of Vorno. This is a lovely place, full of stone walls, trellises, grape vines, and well-tended villas all set amid beautiful hills and views of distant mountains. We stopped for prima colazione (breakfast Italian style, cappuccino and a sweet) and then explored on foot, ending with a stop at the local church with its interesting campanile (bell tower) and historical monument. Carlo Piaggia, intrepid explorer (his bust is pictured above), sounds like my kind of guy!

The fortezza (fortress) in Montecarlo, Italy — The *fortezza* (fortress) in Montecarlo, Italy

Where to go next? Our trip through the back roads led us to the small town of Montecarlo, famous for wines and an ancient fortress.

The town was quiet, tourist season still a few weeks away. The uncrowded streets were fun to wander and I was most intrigued by the many interesting doors and windows. Fun to imagine who has passed by them and what lies within.

What a joy to have an unstructured day to wander the back roads in this part of Tuscany! -Post by JMB

Wisteria in full bloom, Piazza Parigi, Lucca

An Italian Easter

April 22, 2019 by Joanne Bartram in Italy, #italytravel, Lucca, Tuscany

Italy knows how to put on a holiday show and Easter (Pasqua) is no exception. The Easter season stretches from pre-Lenten Carnevale celebrations, to the processions for Palm Sunday and Good Friday, to solemn Mass on Easter Sunday and finally to Pasquetta, the Monday after Easter.

Pretty Easter decorations in a shop along Via San Georgia, Lucca

The season is at its best when the calendar places Easter late in April, allowing it to unfold along with the Italian primavera (spring). This year April has been glorious here in Lucca - warm days, occasional spring rains, wild flowers in bloom along the city walls, trees in full flower, and - my personal favorite- gorgeous trellises and walls overflowing with wisteria blooms. (We’ll give you a taste of the natural beauty in next week’s post, so stay tuned!)

The shops are overflowing with Easter decorations and window displays. And the chocolate shops! Huge chocolate eggs containing hidden surprises, candy eggs, and lots of chocolate Easter chickens. And really, given that bunnies don’t lay eggs, don’t chickens make more sense?

Yesterday was Easter Sunday; today is Pasquetta or “little Easter.” It is celebrated as a national holiday and a day for picnics and casual celebrations. I’ll celebrate with visiting friends, a walk through town to see the colorful wisteria, window gazing, and a toast to an Italian Easter. -post by JMB

Translation: Better an egg today than a chicken tomorrow!