Carnevale Lucca Style

Venice, 2020

 If you come to Italy during the month of February, be prepared for some excitement.  February is the month of Carnevale - the big post-Christmas season event that brings fun and celebration in anticipation of the more restrained period of the 40 days of Lent which precede Easter.

 Picture processions, costumes, fantastic masks, balls, parties, sweets and lots and lots of confetti. 

The character of the celebrations may vary, from the elegance of Venice, to the satire of Viareggio, and the many celebrations in large and small towns throughout Italy.  Fun and a chance to cut loose prior to Lent are the common denominators.

 Lucca, where I live, is just about 30 minutes from the seaside town of Viareggio.  Viareggio plays host to Italy’s 2nd largest Carnevale event (just behind Venice’s) on successive weekends throughout most of February. 

Viareggio, 2019

Paper-mâché floats are the centerpieces of the Corso Mascherato (masked route) procession which takes place along Viareggio’s seaside promenade.  Some of the floats are huge, requiring a whole team to propel them forward and move their various extremities  - nothing is mechanized, it’s all human powered.  

Others are smaller, but all are works of art created by a carrista, a master craftsman / artisan / maker of floats.  Their creations make comments, allegorical and satirical, on society, politics, culture, and a host of modern-day issues. Over the course of the month half a million plus visitors will come to Viareggio to enjoy the procession. 

For the first several years that I lived in Lucca there was barely a hint of Carnevale here.  A few children’s parties, some glitter and confetti, but not much else.  With Viareggio just a short train ride away, none of the action came our way.  

That changed in 2023 with the advent of Lucca in Maschera, a collaboration between the cities of Lucca and Viareggio to bring some of the Carnevale magic here to Lucca. 

This year the festivities began on February 4th with a parade of masked groups, some 400 people strong, and some of the smaller floats / figures from Viareggio, along Lucca’s historic walls. And that was just the beginning. This year I watched the excitement of the parade from afar, as I was still in New Mexico visiting family. A big thanks to Lucca resident Sandra Liliana Pucci for the parade photos below.

Several large installations remain on display in the piazzas throughout town. I was delighted that they were still in place when I returned to Lucca last week. Walking through town to discover the various works was a great welcome home for me!

Paper-mâché Rolling Stones tower over Piazza Napoleone in memory of their concert here several years ago.  A huge tiger sits under the loggia in Piazza San Michele. 

This Shaman made its way from the parade on the walls to Piazza Anfiteatro. Thanks to M.A. Fisher for this photo

The whale from the Pinocchio tale fills the space in front of the tourist information center in Piazzale Verdi and huge Shamans work some magic in Piazza Anfiteatro. 

 Throughout February a host of other Carnevale activities are taking place.   Events in Lucca include children’s celebrations, a masked ball, the return of a historic masquerade in Piazza San Francesco (an event that has been missing for several years), musical performances, and lots of good Carnevale sweets in the pastry shops. 

I won’t make it to Viareggio this year, much less to Venice, but I am enjoying the Carnevale events in Lucca. Even the leftover confetti on the streets make me smile.

A British Style Sweet With an Italian Twist

Before I get to the description and recipe for this British-with-an-Italian-twist sweet, we must take a minute to talk about the word “pudding”.

Date “pudding”, served alongside some fruit, goes well with a morning coffee.

I remember being quite confused hearing my friend, a lovely English lady whom I was visiting in Hampshire, ask her cat if he was ready for his pudding. Pudding for a cat?  I must have misunderstood.  My friend explained that in this context pudding simply meant a mid-afternoon treat. Not literally what I thought of as a pudding.  An English pudding, in a general sense, can also refer to an after dinner desert. Dinner is over, bring on the pudding! Again, not what we Americans think of as pudding (a milk-based custard that definitely requires a spoon), but any type of a sweet desert.   Ok, I thought that I was beginning to understand (maybe).

If only it were that simple. But it’s not, because there is also a more specific meaning to the word pudding, British style. Historically, pudding is a steamed concoction which can be either sweet or savory.  At least it was originally steamed.  These days it might just as easily be baked. The one I am most familiar with is Sticky Toffee Pudding. Though as an American I would describe that as a type of very moist, very sweet cake with a sauce on top. 

As for an Italian equivalent of a British steamed pudding, I am not aware of one.  There are wonderful custard based Italian desserts (budino, zuppa inglese, tiramisu) but these are neither steamed nor baked and so are a different thing entirely.

Call this dense, moist, sweet a pudding, a cake, or a loaf. It is delicious no matter what it’s called.

This leads me to my British-with-an-Italian-twist sweet.  I first had this at an American friend’s home in Lucca.  She referred to it as Date Pudding, the name given in the recipe from the King Arthur Baking Company.  For just a bit more confusion – King Arthur sounds like it should be a British company, but it is actually an American flour producer.  And yet…. pudding.   What she served was a wonderful, not too sweet, very moist, slightly sticky cake. No jiggly American style pudding in sight. 

 My friend had tinkered with the recipe some, substituting a whole grain flour for the King Arthur white and decreasing the sugar to make a healthier version.  Whether it was called pudding or cake it was delicious.

Because I had been experimenting with Italian farina di castagna (chestnut flour), I decided to try the recipe using half chestnut and half white flour.  Like my friend I decreased the sugar by 25% and I upped the spices a bit.  The chestnut flour added an extra dimension of nuttiness to the flavor, and added the Italian twist. The original recipe called for baking the “pudding” in a square pan, but I tried it in a loaf pan with a slight increase in baking time which worked great. I liked being able to turn it out of the loaf pan and slice it for serving

 I made this recently for a morning coffee with a friend in New Mexico.  I could not find any chestnut flour in my local stores, so substituted all white flour.  I missed the nuttiness of the chestnut flour a bit, but it was still delicious and made for a very nice mid-morning coffee treat. It seems the type of flour is quite flexible with this recipe (shh… don’t tell King Arthur, he might not be pleased).

A morning coffee with date loaf as the centerpiece. It is normal for this moist loaf to sink in the middle.

Here’s my version of the recipe, which I will call Date Loaf rather than pudding. A big thanks to King Arthur for the original and my friend in Lucca for introducing me to this treat.

 Date Loaf Recipe

1 cup pitted dates, chopped (be sure to use unsweetened dates, not the kind dipped in glucose syrup)

¾ cup sugar

1 Tablespoon butter (omit for a vegan version)

1 ½ teaspoons baking soda

¼ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon cinnamon

½ rounded teaspoon ground ginger

The batter will be quite moist

1 cup boiling water

½ cup finely chopped walnuts

1 1/3 cups flour (half chestnut, half white is my go to blend)

 Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a loaf pan and line the bottom with parchment paper.

Chop the dates and add the sugar, butter, baking soda, salt, cinnamon and ginger.

Pour 1 cup of boiling water over the date mixture.   Let cool to room temperature.

Stir in the flour and the nuts. The batter will be wet.

Put the batter into the prepared loaf pan (it’s ok to lick the spoon since there are no raw eggs in the batter; taste and add more ginger if you want!)

Bake for 30 minutes until set but moist.   A toothpick will come out sticky but without any wet batter clinging. (Baking time may be longer if using a long, narrow European loaf pan rather than a wider US style loaf pan and shorter for an 8x8 square pan).

Cool in pan on a rack x 10 minutes.  Turn out of loaf pan and remove parchment paper.

Serve warm or at room temperature. The loaf slices best with a serrated knife.

 The date loaf is tasty served plain for a coffee or a tea gathering. It works well as a dessert too, just top with a small scoop of vanilla ice cream or a dollop of whipped cream. Leftovers keep in the fridge for a few days.

Topped with vanilla ice cream, date loaf makes a nice dessert

Winter Reading, Italian Stories

January has finally dragged itself into February on its slow crawl out of winter.  Is it just me or did last month seem unusually dreary?  And long.  I spent all of January in New Mexico so I can’t speak for the weather anywhere else, but in New Mexico it was cloudy, gray, and drizzly for days on end which is quite unusual here in the land of sunshine.  Two light snowfalls were pretty but cold.   

Pontremoli, a city where books are everywhere.

Dreary winter days are perfect for sitting with a cup of coffee and reading a good book.  When I am away from Italy, as I have been for the last 6 weeks or so, I find myself drawn to books set in Italy. There are endless choices – memoirs, travel diaries, historical pieces. 

There are Donna Leon mysteries and Camilleri’s Inspector Montalbano.  Who hasn’t fallen under the spell of A Room With a View or Enchanted April? More recent books have been best sellers - Under the Tuscan Sun and My Brilliant Friend (though I admit I struggled a bit through that one) - come to mind.  Perhaps Umberto Eco’s Name of the Rose or Giovanni Boccaccio’s Decameron (which I found my grandson reading recently) is on your reading list.  The list could go on and on.

 I am currently enjoying two series that may not be as universally known. Both are by contemporary authors.  The two series are quite different, but if you love Italy, and especially Tuscany, then I recommend them as perfect for winter reading.

Don’t you love it when a novel takes you to a familiar location in Tuscany ?

The first is a series of historical novels by the art historian Laura Morelli.  Her well-researched novels intertwine Italian art, craftsmanship, long-ago artists, and history in compelling reads.  Through her writing I have sat by Da Vinci’s side as he painted, walked with Lisa Gheradini through Florence, hid vanities from Savonarola, and worked alongside a gondola craftsman in Venice.  Parts of her novels are set in 15th and 16th century Italy, but the stories often move between time periods - from Renaissance era Italy to World War II when Italian masterpieces were being hidden from, or acquired by, the Nazis. If not familiar with her books, The Stolen Lady, which revolves around the painting of the Mona Lisa and life in Florence during that time period, and how the painting was hidden during WWII, is a great place to start.   If Venice calls to you, then The Gondola Maker will transport you to the 16th century workshop of a family of gondola craftsman.   

A very different series is written by Camilla Trinchieri.  Set in the present day, her 3 novels are what the Italians call gialli.  The word giallo literally means “yellow” (the plural is gialli), so called for the yellow covers that were traditionally used for Italian mysteries. 

Trinchieri’s protagonist is a very likable retired American cop, widowed and living in the Chianti region.  There is an appealing Italian maresciallo (a type of local policeman) stationed in Greve, his endearing young second in command, and a host of interesting Italian characters.   Reading these novels are like taking a vacation in Chianti, one where you recognize the towns immediately and feel right at home.   Best to read these in order, starting with Murder in Chianti.   A 4th book in the series is due out this year, so I am rereading the series this winter in preparation.

What’s next on my reading list?   I have just started The Sixteen Pleasures, set in Florence after the big flood of 1966. So far I’ve learned quite a bit about the restoration of water damaged books and an American book conservator volunteering in a convent library. A scandal is just unfolding - a book of erotic drawings hidden away in the convent’s library. I wonder where that will lead?

I head back to Italy soon and there will still be a month of winter ahead. I am looking forward to starting the Bookseller of Florence by Ross King.  It is sitting by the reading chair in my Lucca apartment just waiting for me.

Do you have favorite books set in Italy?   Please share your favorites on the Two Parts Italy Facebook page.   Happy winter reading!

The Basilica of San Lorenzo in Florence

It’s hard to have a favorite church in Florence.  It may even be wrong to choose a favorite considering the number of historic and significant churches in the city.  The Duomo, officially the Church of Santa Maria del Fiore, with its magnificent façade and campanile, is famous for good reason.  Consider Santa Maria Novella, Santa Croce, Santissima Annunziata – and those are just the basilicas inside the historic center.  Add in smaller churches, chapels, baptisteries, oratorios, bell towers and wonderful churches outside the center and, well, it would take years to explore them all.  How could anyone choose a favorite?

Tomb of Berta Moltke Hwitfeldt, Corbelli Chapel, Basilica of San Lorenzo

 And yet, I do have a couple of favorites.   One is the Basilica of San Lorenzo, whose 4th century origins make it the oldest church in Florence.  Redesigned by Brunelleschi in the 15th century, and completed after his death, it was the parish church of the Medici family, many of whom are buried there.

Detail, Basilica of San Lorenzo, Florence

 San Lorenzo is more than just a church – the complex also has a museum, the Laurentian Library, and the Medici Chapels.  Underneath the Medici chapels is a recently discovered hidden room with rough sketches by Michelangelo covering the walls. Right now it’s the hottest attraction in town but it was not yet opened during my November stay in Florence. The library is not always open, and a special ticket is needed for the Medici Chapel.  The entire complex is a bit too much for one visit.

On my recent off-season stay in Florence, I stopped by on the spur of the moment and purchased a ticket which included only the cloister and church, both of which were uncrowded and just right for a short visit.

What is it that makes the San Lorenzo Basilica one of my favorites?   It starts with the rough stone exterior.  Unlike the polished marble façade of the Duomo, the San Lorenzo stands unadorned and underdressed.  It was meant to have a white marble façade, designed by Michelangelo at the request of the Medici Pope Leo X.   But the pope died, the money dried up, and the façade was never installed. 

Inside, the basilica feels quiet and peaceful with its simple geometric floor anchoring graceful arches and columns in gray Pietra Serena (Serene Stone).  The high, round, windows let in light through their clear glass.  Even the ceiling, with its gold edged squares and central medallions (look for the Medici coat of arms) feels calming. Unlike more ornate churches (such as my other favorite, the very Baroque Santissima Annunziata), San Lorenzo has low contrast colors and finishes. This allows it to feel open and airy. The Basilica is a soothing space that supports quiet contemplation and an uncluttered mind. 

Another reason to love this church is the way in which it showcases the work of Donatello.  His two ornately carved pulpits, raised high atop marble columns in the center of the church, are considered his final masterpieces.

Donatello’s pulpits , Basilica of San Lorenzo

The church holds many remarkable pieces of art, but not so many as to be overwhelming.  There are sculptures, including graceful tomb markers, and some significant paintings, many of which sit in small side chapels.

Bronzino’s The Martyrdom of St. Lawrence

Perhaps the two most well-known paintings are an Annunciation by Filippo Lippi (below, right) and the Betrothal of the Virgin by Rosso Fiorentino (below, left).  Two very different styles, both captivating.   

Old Sacristy, Basilica of San Lorenzo

The biggest reason for my love of this church is the small Sagrestia Vecchia (Old Sacristy).  Designed by Brunelleschi, it was the only portion of the church completed before his death.  His perfectly proportioned design incorporates a square room with a ribbed dome on top, several graceful arches, and the same gray and white colors of the main church. 

 Opposite the entry into the sacristy is a small marble altar, its design in white marble is in keeping with the simplicity of the rest of Brunelleschi’s design.  Above the altar, in a smaller dome, is a remarkable blue and gold night sky.  There has been some debate about the date represented by the constellations pictured.  Initially it was thought to represent the day the altar was consecrated in July of 1422.  Newer theories give the date as July 6, 1439, the date of the accord uniting the Eastern and Western branches of Christianity.  Whichever date is correct, the constellations unite the sacristy with the heavens.

The constellations above the altar in the Old Sacristy, Basilica of San Lorenzo

 In the center of the sacristy is the tomb of a Giovanni di Bicci de’Medici and his wife Piccarda Bueri.  It was Giovanni who founded the Medici bank and set the stage for the Medici era in Florence.  This seems like a fitting place for him to rest.

Not part of Brunelleschi’s original design, several elements were later added by Donatello at the request of the Medicis.  These include a series of tondi (round decorations) which lie below the dome.  The 4 in the corners represent the life of Saint John the Evangelist.  

Detail, Donatello’s bronze doors, Old Sacristy

Donatello also designed the two bronze doors that flank the altar.

Apostles to the left, martyrs on the right.

The large reliefs above the doors, with St. Cosmos and St. Damian on the right and St. Stephen and St. Lawrence on the left, are also the work of Donatello.

(Note: There is also a New Sacristy but it is not accessible from inside the church, only from the Medici Chapels)

One of the relief decorations by Donatello above the bronze doors in the Old Sacristy.

The Basilica of San Lorenzo is not the largest or most ornate church in Florence.  It wears no colorful marble facade. But it is stunning in its simplicity and is of great historical and architectual importance. When visiting, don’t miss the literature with a QR code which links to an audio guide. The audio descriptions greatly enhanced any visit.

Entry and Exit to the church is through the cloisters.  This green space, surrounded by a two-story loggia, is a destination all of its own. The lower floor of the loggia surrounds a neatly kept space with low hedges and a big central tree.  Under the arches is a walkway with walls filled with memorials to long ago Florentines.  It’s a moving space embracing both the quiet of the church and views out into the “real world” of Florence.  You can almost hear the rustling robes of those long ago monks as they walk through the cloister.

Cloister, Basilica of San Lorenzo

 Hungry afterwards?  Just outside the front entry is a wonderful lunch spot – the Trattoria San Lorenzo.  A perfect way to end a visit to the church, enjoy a meal, and have time to organize memories of the basilica.

The Everything in 1 Carry-on Bag Myth

I've read at least 100 articles about the virtues of fitting everything needed for a trip of any length, from 2 days to 2 months, into a single carry-on bag. I've read and reread them. I've tried to follow this advice, really I have.  I can almost do it too. I pare down to the essentials, I compress and I cram and I get the suitcase shut only to find that it is then too heavy for me to lift into an overhead bin.

Oh, the sense of failure that has plagued me each time I've packed, realizing at the last minute that I would not get everything into one carry-on sized bag that I could lift.

Varenna, Lake Como. This is the kind of terrain that requires traveling as light as possible

And then one day I realized that it's all a myth.  Who determined that we should only travel with a carry-on? It makes great sense if you are moving frequently between cities, dragging bags along cobblestones, hauling them onto a train every few days, trekking in the Alps. I get that. Packing light is definitely a good strategy. And of course the risk of a delayed bag must be considered - that alone can be a good reason to take only a carry-on bag.

But, while flying without checking bags may be ideal, some of us have a travel style that does not fit, or at least does not demand, a carry-on only strategy. That’s especially true when a trip involves a stay in a single city, no need to bring luggage on public transportation, and no schlepping of bags over rough terrain. Not that I am advocating huge suitcases and over-packing, I am just suggesting that there may be a middle road.

How I would love to arrive in Rome on a non-stop flight from the US. But from my base in New Mexico that just isn’t possible.

One big reason that carry-on only may not work relates to where the trip begins. When flights start from a major airport, with a direct connection to one’s destination, and a large plane, it’s fairly easy to manage with only a carry-on. I do envy those direct flights from the east coast to Rome! But my trips most often begin from a non-hub city which means a minimum of two legs with at least one leg on a small regional jet. Some of those smaller jets have overhead bins that are too small for even a mid-sized bag. That leads to the dreaded announcement that everyone needs to gate check their carry-on bag. The problem here is the wait for the gate checked bag to be unloaded. Those extra 15 minutes or so at the jet bridge can make a tight connection problematic and can even lead to a missed connection. Much better to check a bag all the way through to a final destination and avoid the gate check worry if flying on a small regional jet.

While I'm not particularly high maintenance, I do have some travel essentials and the older I get the more my list of essentials seems to grow. Eye glasses, medications, KT tape for sore knees, a sun hat, lots of ibuprofen, an umbrella, and comfortable shoes are all must and take up extra space. I can pare down clothing and do laundry during a trip. I am just fine with only 2 pairs of shoes.  Forget about dressy clothing. But I do want to look pulled together and have some variety in clothing, especially on a trip that includes some special events or a stay in a more sophisticated city. Some longer trips require bridging two seasons and a wide range of temperatures. Winter trips may require boots and other cold weather gear. It just isn’t always possible to fit everything needed into a carry-on bag.

Paris, December 2022. So cold! Packing included long underwear, gloves, boots, scarfs, warm sweaters, hats. No way would just a carry-on bag have worked especially on the regional jet between Florence and Paris !

Many people these days travel with medical equipment. They may bring a CPAP machine, folding cane, or other bulky supplies. And while US carriers generally allow an extra carry-on bag for medical equipment, many foreign carriers do not. In that case the CPAP machine goes into the one allowed carry-on bag, leaving less room for clothing and other essentials which must go into a checked bag.

So, I have finally decided to ditch the guilt and embrace a packing style that lies somewhere between a single carry-on bag and setting off for the continent with 3 steamer trunks.

Here are some of my self-imposed packing "rules"

My favorite bag to check is this relatively small Eagle Creek.

Rule #1 is that I must be able to handle my luggage by myself. If it’s too heavy, too bulky, or too numerous to manage on my own, it’s a mistake whether I have one bag or two. Yes, a kind, tall stranger may volunteer to lift a bag onto a train or into an airplane overhead compartment for me, but that is never something I count on. Nor would I ever expect a travel companion to do my heavy lifting. My bags, my responsibility. As for those folks struggling up train steps with oversize bags, expecting the nearest young man to lift the heavy bag for them, or juggling two huge suitcases down a narrow train aisle …. well, I simply shake my head and hope they’ve learned a lesson for a future trip.

Next rule: I am never tempted to go big just because a bag is being checked. My usual checked bag is an older and rather petite 22x14x8 inch Eagle Creek.  It actually meets carry-on standards for most airlines but works perfectly to check. This means I still need to be discriminating about what I pack. I can easily handle this not-too-big bag, along with my small carry on, when negotiating airports or even trains (see rule #1).  And once I’ve checked it at the airport, I have only a smaller carry-on and my “personal item” to contend with.

I love getting a message via my AirTag letting me know that my checked bag has safely arrived and will be waiting for me inthe baggage area.

A recent addition to my list of musts is to add an AirTag to any checked bag. This is a new travel essential. It was a big help when my checked bag did not arrive on time at the end of my recent flights from Italy to the US. The air tag confirmed that the bag was still in Frankfurt even when the airline’s tracking system told me it had arrived with me to the US. Knowing the bag’s location made tracking it down much easier. It arrived 2 days later with the AirTag sending me an update on its location every step of the way.

A small wheeled bag works as my carry-on to hold essentials and things I am reluctant to check. This includes a change of clothes (or two) in case the checked bag is delayed, jewelry, laptop, all medications, and other absolute essentials. It choose one just big enough to carry all of the items above, plus a travel CPAP, and yet not be too heavy to lift into the overhead. 14-16 inches high seems to be a perfect height for a roll-aboard bag. Having these essentials ensures that my trip will be off to a good start even if my checked bag should be delayed.

Some travelers prefer a duffel type carry-on without wheels. They are definitely easier to fit into overhead compartments. But I have no interest in lugging around a duffel. Give me spinner wheels any day! I also appreciate a rigid handle so that I have the option to slip a personal item over the handle of my carry-on, making for one-hand-free movement. The carry-on bag will go in the overhead compartment, so it is important to avoid putting anything needed during the flight into this bag.

I'm all about organizing both my checked bag and my carry-on. I love Eagle Creek Specter compression bags!  They are practically weightless and go a long way toward reducing the bulkiness of clothing. I love these so much that I often give them as gifts to my traveling friends.

In addition to a small carry-on bag, most US and European airlines allow a personal item such as a purse, small backpack, or satchel. I am not a fan of backpacks, mostly because I’ve been whacked in the head with someone else’s backpack during the boarding process all too often. I much prefer a purse or tote bag. Into this goes anything needed during a flight. My list always includes: a pashmina, antibacterial wipes, an overnight kit with medications and any toiletries that I will need in flight, a couple of face masks. I also put in a magazine, noise cancelling earbuds, phone, a small case with chargers, cords and adapters, tissues, prescription glasses, a snack, mints, and a tiny cross-body purse. A small thermos, which I fill with coffee or tea after going through security for a bit of in-flight comfort, also tucks into my tote bag. My passport holder is clipped into an internal zip pocket.  The tote goes under the seat and so is easy to access during the flight. 

I am a bit embarrassed to admit how many personal items / totes I have owned over the years. It seems I am always on a search for the perfect one and have bought (and set aside) many more than I will own up to. Some were too large, or too heavy, too structured, some too narrow or without enough pockets.

Despite having several still tucked away in my closet, the bag I almost always end up using as my personal item is my Baggallini tote. It is lightweight, flexible, has lots of organizing pockets inside and out, an internal zipper compartment for a passport, two exterior pockets that fit a thermos or water bottle, and it fits easily under even the smallest of airplane seats. It also has a luggage sleeve, something I consider essential. Mine is nearly 10 years old and still looks new. It has the best combination of being light weight, functional, and just the right size of any tote bag I’ve found.

I will head back to Italy in a couple of weeks with a checked bag armed with an AirTag for tracking. My little roll-aboard will go in the overhead and my Baggallini tote will be under my seat. Since I will have a car to take me straight to my Lucca apartment from the airport, no train travel involved, the extra bag is not a problem.

More power to the travelers who can go carry-on only. I admit that I still envy you but I have learned to be ok with my need for a checked bag.

Time to start packing!