Springtime In the Botanic Garden of Padova

The Orto Botanico (Botanic Garden) of Padova (Padua in English) dates back to the year 1545.  It was created on land owned by Benedictine monks, with the blessing of the Venetian Republic. The purpose for its creation was the study of medicinal herbs  - a pretty important study in times of plague and pestilence, long before the advent of antibiotics and vaccines.  The early botanists sought to identify those plants which promoted health and cured disease (as well as the dangerous ones that could harm). 

 The Orto Botanico continues to be a place of study, international collaboration, and research.  In 1997 it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its contribution to, in the words of UNESCO  “the sciences of botany, medicine, chemistry and pharmacy”.

In addition to being an important scientific site, it is also a place of great beauty.  The enclosed garden, overlooked by the domes of churches on both sides, sits just beyond the Basilica of St. Anthony.  Glimpses of church domes through the garden’s trees add to the enchantment of the setting.

The surrounding brick walls, topped with stone balustrades, enclose meandering paths edged with wild flowers, gated formal gardens, a small stream, a variety of trees, and several pretty fountains. 

Small buildings showcase carnivorous plants and one very ancient tree.  A much larger greenhouse is the center for the study of biodiversity (currently closed to visitors). 

 On the day I visited (in early April) the garden was blooming with spring flowers.  Wisteria, both purple and white varieties, clung to the brick walls.  The Irises were just beginning to bloom and the scent of lilacs was in the air. 

 The Orto Botanico is an oasis of color and fragrance in the middle of Padova. What a great way to spend a spring afternoon!

The Church of San Salvatore in Lucca

A painted door in Piazza del Salvatore, Lucca

A couple of days in Lucca last week were rain free – perfect for catching up on errands.   My tasks included a stop at the lavandaria (cleaners), a quick visit to a local shop to buy a pretty pot for the chives I’ll grow on a sunny windowsill, a meet up with a friend for a coffee (there may have been a pastry involved), and a trip to the Ortofrutta to stock up on vegetables. 

 The best part of running errands here is that it never feels like a chore.  No drudgery involved.  How could there be when the errands are done on foot and all involve a walk through historic Medieval streets?  There are ancient stone buildings, centuries old decorative brick work around windows, balconies full of flowers, and beautiful old wooden doors along every route.  Add to that the sound of spoken Italian providing a soundtrack to daily life here and chores are fun.

On my errands I stopped into one of Lucca’s small and lesser known (at least to visitors; it’s a favorite of locals) churches. It was empty, silent, and unguarded. I was the only person inside, free to admire the architecture, artwork, and treasures within. To leave such a historic place, filled with valuable artifacts, so accessible would be unheard of in the US.  Here in Lucca it is not unusual at all.  

The Church of San Salvatore, also known as the Church of the Misericordia, Lucca

The church, officially the Church of San Salvatore in Mustolio, is more commonly known as the Church of the Misericordia because it is located right next to what was for many years the office of the Misericordia Ambulance Service.   

A few months ago the ambulance service moved outside of central Lucca, leaving a spot for some benches and flower pots in the space where the ambulances used to sit. The stone wall of the church is now easy to see and the historic carved lintel above the side door more visible.

This new sitting area, once filled with parked ambulances, is now a pretty place to sit facing the piazza along the side of the church.

 A church has stood here for over 1000 years**, with major renovations and modifications over time.  Some of the most important elements of the current church are the exterior lintels, one over the front right door (below, right) and one over the side door (below, left), that date from the 12th century.  Each lintel tells a story from the life of Saint Nicholas.  They are beautifully carved, in wonderful shape, and are important examples of decorative elements from that time period. 

The interior of the church has a main altar that contains a 14th century wooden crucifix.   Two smaller altars are placed along the sides of the small church. One, an ornate sculpted piece, frames a Christ with bound wrists. The other is a depiction of Our Lady of Fatima surrounded by children.

There are several paintings inside the church, including an Ascension from the year 1561 by the local artist Vezzano and another that depicts local favorite Santa Zita in the company of several saints. 

I always find the little details in a church fascinating. A memorial marker, a lantern, a holy water font, a small shrine, a simple stature, a bit of faded fresco. This are the things that capture my attention and there are plenty to see in the Church of San Salvatore.

The quiet church provides an oasis of calm.  As an added bonus, it sits within the Piazza del Salvatore with Nottolini’s famous fountain topped by the Naiade statue. What a beautiful place to stop in the midst of running errands!

** A huge thanks to The Wanderer’s Guide to Lucca by Brian Lindquist for the history of San Salvatore church.  His book, and the accompanying Wanderer’s Map, remain the most valuable English language source for information on the historic churches and buildings in Lucca.  It’s a must have for anyone living here or interested in Lucca’s history.

Can you spot Santa Zita in this painting from the year 1638 by Mannucci?

March in Lucca

The month of March starts off slow in Lucca and then builds towards the first hints of spring, an explosion of flowers, the beginning of the busy visitor season and, finally, Spring.

But so far, the first week of March isn’t feeling much different than February.  It’s still raining.  With gray skies and bare trees, most of the color comes from a rainbow of umbrellas. 

And while the temperatures are slowly creeping up, it is still chilly. Perfect weather for soup, pots of tea, afternoon naps, and catching up with friends. 

Even better if the catching up happens over a cappuccino in an elegant cafe.

I’ve been back in Lucca for two weeks now, after a long visit to the US over the holidays and all through January. A walk around town, even in the drizzly weather, is a good remedy for the prolonged case of jet lag that has hounded me since my return.  

This statue of Luigi Boccherini is always there to greet me when I return to Lucca. He sits outside the Boccherini Institute, a music school. It isn’t far from my apartment so I pass by often. Walking past and hearing the sounds of students practicing is always a sure sign that I am back in Lucca.

As I walk, I enjoy seeing familiar places as well as small forgotten details and surprise finds. 

Stumbling across a little vignette like this one is always a delightful surprise.

I am always delighted by how many new details I find even after 5 years of living here - a previously unnoticed stretch of decorative brick, a bit of street art, a beautiful art deco piece decorating a building, a fanciful torch holder, a unique door knocker, beautiful decorative ironwork, a statue.    

 On my recent walks I’ve also tried to pay attention to the signs of the season in Lucca.  The nearly empty weekday streets are a sure sign that it is still late winter. 

The many temporarily closed cafes and bars signify the owners’ chance to grab a bit of rest after the holidays and the excitement of Carnevale and before the hubbub of events that surround Easter.

The bare branches of this tree are like a sculpture against the backdrop of the old brick and stone church wall.

At this time of year there is a stark beauty in the bare trees and vines.  In a few weeks the wisteria will begin to flower and the trees will turn green with leaves.  And the visitors will arrive.  But not just yet.  And, with all those bare branches, what a wonderful surprise this week to turn a corner and find a whole street of magnolias already in bloom. 

Mimosas are the traditional gift for la Festa della Donna

I am looking forward to several events that will come later this month. March 8th marks the Festa della Donna (International Women’s Day), a day to celebrate the achievements of women in all fields. Bright yellow bunches of mimosas are a traditional part of the day.

After that comes the Festa di San Giuseppe (Feast of Saint Joseph) on the 19th.  I admit that it is the traditional feast day frittelle that I really look forward to.  I’ll take two cream filled ones please.

Later in March, Good Friday will be marked with a traditional and very solemn procession through the streets of Lucca.  

It is an historic and moving event and one that always marks the beginning of spring for me. March will conclude with Easter. It arrives early this year, on March 31st. 

The Good Friday procession in Lucca

There are also some unique events happening this month. One is an exhibit of works by Antonio Canova (it runs through September). That exhibit will be a good thing to do on one of these a rainy March afternoons.

2024 marks the 100th anniversary of the death of Giacomo Puccini. And Puccini is a big deal here in Lucca where he was born. He started his musical career playing in local churches and spent much of his adult life in the area. He spent a lot of time in Lucca’s Caffe di Simo (in Puccini’s time it was known as Café Caselli).  Sadly, that cafe has been closed for more than a decade now, sitting empty on Via Fillungo.  It is a legendary place that has not been significantly changed since Puccini last met his friends there. It will reopen (temporarily) for several special events during the Puccini celebrations this year.  It’s one of those abandoned, dusty places that I have long wanted to see. I am looking forward to being able to get inside! 

This pretty cat made me smile on one of my wanders through Lucca. Here he sits outside the church where Puccini was baptized.

After its slow and quiet start, March promises to be a busy month in Lucca with lots of activities, celebrations, and the slow unfolding of spring. 

I’m ready!

Planning Spring and Summer Travel

The end of February, the longest short month of the year, is in sight.  The last few days have been damp and chilly in Lucca. Today, there is a constant rain pouring down. That makes it perfect weather for staying inside and writing.   I always forget that 50 degrees in Lucca, with its deeply shaded medieval streets, cold stone buildings, and dampness, feels a lot colder than 50 degrees in the sunshine and dryness of New Mexico.  Add in some rain and the chill is inescapable.

And while the end of February may have us dreaming of warm weather, in Lucca we are still in scarfs and warm coats. But the desire to shrug them off and unpack a spring wardrobe is strong.  I wouldn’t mind hanging up my umbrella either.

A summer vision along the Ligurian coast.

With spring just around the corner, and summer not that far behind, I have been daydreaming of warm weather, breezes coming off the sea, lake vistas, blooming flowers, and drinks on sunny piazzas. 

The rainy days also have me looking through my cache of photos and daydreaming about past and future travel. It is time to get serious about planning some adventures for spring and early summer.

Living in Italy, the whole of Europe is within reach. The only problem is deciding where to go.

In the spirit of travel planning, today I will share photos of spring and summer European travel ideas. I hope they serve as inspiration as you daydream about your own spring and summer plans. They are definitely giving me some ideas.

I found that the daffodils were beautiful in the Netherlands the first week of April last year. It was a bit too early for tulips which were still a few weeks away.

Below (left to right) are some fun things to do in Spring within easy reach of Lucca: riding the funiculare up to Montecatini Alto, April in the Cinque Terre (before the summer crowds arrive), Montecarlo as seen from the old Fortezza, and Bagnone, a charming small town along the Magra river in the Lunigiana region.

The south of France is lovely in spring and early summer. This year I will avoid the Olympic crowds near Paris, but would welcome some time in the south. To that end, a Viking Cruise along the Rhône river from Lyon to Avignon is on my spring bucket list. Below: photos from the market in Uzès, a small village in the Languedoc region, and a wonderful place to visit.

Spain is another good spring and early summer destination. It is not a place I know well, but the time I spent in Barcelona a few years ago was memorable. I would definitely jump at the chance for a return trip. Some favorites, below: a panoramic view from the department store at Plaza de Catalunya, Park Guell, La Sagrada Familia Basilica, the Palau de la Musica

In the heat of summer, England and Scotland can offer a cooler get-away. Below top row: Chawton House and its gardens (perfect for fans of Jane Austen). Bottom row: the ruins of the chapel at Holyrood House and the famous Grayfriars Bobby Pub in Edinborough. Chilly even in August!

Back in Italy, a summer vacation at Lake Como brings hot temperatures and crowds, but gorgeous views and a chance to catch breezes while riding the boats that crisscross the water.

Lake Como is always a good place for spring and summer fun.

The Ligurian coast is a wonderful early summer destination - views, beaches, charming fishing villages, pesto, and fabulous seafood!

Camogli, a small fishing village on the Portofino peninsula.

Do you have other recommendations for spring and summer travel? Let us all know on the Two Parts Italy Facebook page.

Carousel, Marseille

The Basilica of San Lorenzo in Florence

It’s hard to have a favorite church in Florence.  It may even be wrong to choose a favorite considering the number of historic and significant churches in the city.  The Duomo, officially the Church of Santa Maria del Fiore, with its magnificent façade and campanile, is famous for good reason.  Consider Santa Maria Novella, Santa Croce, Santissima Annunziata – and those are just the basilicas inside the historic center.  Add in smaller churches, chapels, baptisteries, oratorios, bell towers and wonderful churches outside the center and, well, it would take years to explore them all.  How could anyone choose a favorite?

Tomb of Berta Moltke Hwitfeldt, Corbelli Chapel, Basilica of San Lorenzo

 And yet, I do have a couple of favorites.   One is the Basilica of San Lorenzo, whose 4th century origins make it the oldest church in Florence.  Redesigned by Brunelleschi in the 15th century, and completed after his death, it was the parish church of the Medici family, many of whom are buried there.

Detail, Basilica of San Lorenzo, Florence

 San Lorenzo is more than just a church – the complex also has a museum, the Laurentian Library, and the Medici Chapels.  Underneath the Medici chapels is a recently discovered hidden room with rough sketches by Michelangelo covering the walls. Right now it’s the hottest attraction in town but it was not yet opened during my November stay in Florence. The library is not always open, and a special ticket is needed for the Medici Chapel.  The entire complex is a bit too much for one visit.

On my recent off-season stay in Florence, I stopped by on the spur of the moment and purchased a ticket which included only the cloister and church, both of which were uncrowded and just right for a short visit.

What is it that makes the San Lorenzo Basilica one of my favorites?   It starts with the rough stone exterior.  Unlike the polished marble façade of the Duomo, the San Lorenzo stands unadorned and underdressed.  It was meant to have a white marble façade, designed by Michelangelo at the request of the Medici Pope Leo X.   But the pope died, the money dried up, and the façade was never installed. 

Inside, the basilica feels quiet and peaceful with its simple geometric floor anchoring graceful arches and columns in gray Pietra Serena (Serene Stone).  The high, round, windows let in light through their clear glass.  Even the ceiling, with its gold edged squares and central medallions (look for the Medici coat of arms) feels calming. Unlike more ornate churches (such as my other favorite, the very Baroque Santissima Annunziata), San Lorenzo has low contrast colors and finishes. This allows it to feel open and airy. The Basilica is a soothing space that supports quiet contemplation and an uncluttered mind. 

Another reason to love this church is the way in which it showcases the work of Donatello.  His two ornately carved pulpits, raised high atop marble columns in the center of the church, are considered his final masterpieces.

Donatello’s pulpits , Basilica of San Lorenzo

The church holds many remarkable pieces of art, but not so many as to be overwhelming.  There are sculptures, including graceful tomb markers, and some significant paintings, many of which sit in small side chapels.

Bronzino’s The Martyrdom of St. Lawrence

Perhaps the two most well-known paintings are an Annunciation by Filippo Lippi (below, right) and the Betrothal of the Virgin by Rosso Fiorentino (below, left).  Two very different styles, both captivating.   

Old Sacristy, Basilica of San Lorenzo

The biggest reason for my love of this church is the small Sagrestia Vecchia (Old Sacristy).  Designed by Brunelleschi, it was the only portion of the church completed before his death.  His perfectly proportioned design incorporates a square room with a ribbed dome on top, several graceful arches, and the same gray and white colors of the main church. 

 Opposite the entry into the sacristy is a small marble altar, its design in white marble is in keeping with the simplicity of the rest of Brunelleschi’s design.  Above the altar, in a smaller dome, is a remarkable blue and gold night sky.  There has been some debate about the date represented by the constellations pictured.  Initially it was thought to represent the day the altar was consecrated in July of 1422.  Newer theories give the date as July 6, 1439, the date of the accord uniting the Eastern and Western branches of Christianity.  Whichever date is correct, the constellations unite the sacristy with the heavens.

The constellations above the altar in the Old Sacristy, Basilica of San Lorenzo

 In the center of the sacristy is the tomb of a Giovanni di Bicci de’Medici and his wife Piccarda Bueri.  It was Giovanni who founded the Medici bank and set the stage for the Medici era in Florence.  This seems like a fitting place for him to rest.

Not part of Brunelleschi’s original design, several elements were later added by Donatello at the request of the Medicis.  These include a series of tondi (round decorations) which lie below the dome.  The 4 in the corners represent the life of Saint John the Evangelist.  

Detail, Donatello’s bronze doors, Old Sacristy

Donatello also designed the two bronze doors that flank the altar.

Apostles to the left, martyrs on the right.

The large reliefs above the doors, with St. Cosmos and St. Damian on the right and St. Stephen and St. Lawrence on the left, are also the work of Donatello.

(Note: There is also a New Sacristy but it is not accessible from inside the church, only from the Medici Chapels)

One of the relief decorations by Donatello above the bronze doors in the Old Sacristy.

The Basilica of San Lorenzo is not the largest or most ornate church in Florence.  It wears no colorful marble facade. But it is stunning in its simplicity and is of great historical and architectual importance. When visiting, don’t miss the literature with a QR code which links to an audio guide. The audio descriptions greatly enhanced any visit.

Entry and Exit to the church is through the cloisters.  This green space, surrounded by a two-story loggia, is a destination all of its own. The lower floor of the loggia surrounds a neatly kept space with low hedges and a big central tree.  Under the arches is a walkway with walls filled with memorials to long ago Florentines.  It’s a moving space embracing both the quiet of the church and views out into the “real world” of Florence.  You can almost hear the rustling robes of those long ago monks as they walk through the cloister.

Cloister, Basilica of San Lorenzo

 Hungry afterwards?  Just outside the front entry is a wonderful lunch spot – the Trattoria San Lorenzo.  A perfect way to end a visit to the church, enjoy a meal, and have time to organize memories of the basilica.