Welcome Back Bar del Sole

Lucca’s centro storico is small, completely encircled by Renaissance era walls.  When I first arrived as a visitor, long before I moved here, I thought of the center as one wonderful neighborhood.  No place within the walls was more than a short walk away.  Compared to the sprawl of Albuquerque, that certainly made Lucca feel like a single neighborhood.

 But as I spent more time here, I realized that, even though the walls that encircle the historic center are only about 2.5 miles around, Lucca is much more than a single neighborhood. In fact, there are several small neighborhoods contained within the walls, each with its own unique character.  A move of a few blocks in any direction is likely to mean a change in the local bar, butcher, greengrocer, and pharmacy.  The closure of any one of these neighborhood places has a big impact on local residents.

The original Bar del Sole, on the perimeter of the Old Mercato, a neighborhood institution in this part of Lucca

Take for example the neighborhood around Via Mordini, very near to the Old Mercato building in Piazza del Carmine. There have been just a few shops operating on the perimeter of the building, several of which opened into the big empty space of the former Mercato. For many years the Mercato building existed in restoration limbo. These shops, which included a bar, a butcher, a coffee & chocolate shop, and two greengrocers, were very important neighborhood places.

The Bar del Sole, which for nearly two decades has anchored the corner of the Old Mercato building, was the bar in this neighborhood - the one where you were likely to run into the same patrons on a regular basis, where you knew the owners, Monica and Ernesto, and they knew you too.  A place that always felt comfortable and welcoming.  A great place for a morning coffee, to sit and read the newspaper, to talk with neighbors.  Just as good in the afternoons too for a spritz or glass of wine.

Ernesto (on the left) at the reopening of Bar del Sole. You might just recognize the guy on the right too - that’s Jim Corcoran, one of the organizers of English Mondays. A big thanks to Ilene Blessing Modica for this photo.

The bar also played host for a long time to English Mondays, a social group for Italians wanting to practice English and for English speaking ex-pats. The location of Bar del Sole, opening into the large unrestored Mercato, was perfect for this large group.

But, in a very controversial turn of events, when restoration began on the Old Mercato building most of the existing businesses were forced to relocate. There was very little notice given nor help in finding new places to do business.  Imagine the uproar this caused in the neighborhood.  Imagine the terrible impact on the businesses and the people whose livelihood was threatened. The period of negotiation, legal action, reprieve, and then final closure of the bar was prolonged and stressful.  Earlier this spring the bar closed for good at the Old Mercato location. 

 But – good news – Bar del Sole has found a new location! The new space is just down the street at Via Mordini 13, a few steps away from the old location. 

Work in Progress on the new location for Bar del Sole!

And on June 15th they welcomed the neighbors back with a grand reopening celebration.  The number of people who turned out for the reopening, filling the bar and spilling out to the street, demonstrated how important the bar is to the neighborhood and how much the community supports Monica and Ernesto. 

The Prosecco flowed at the reopening celebration for Bar del Sole

The new location is bright and cheerful, as were the smiles on the faces of the owners and staff.  After the difficulties of the past year, and months of not knowing how (or if) they would be able to reopen, what a joy it was to celebrate with them.

Whether you are living in Lucca or just here for a visit, I hope you will stop in for a coffee or an aperitivo to support Monica and Ernesto in their new location. 

We are all so glad to welcome them back!

A Spring Weekend in Lucca

It seems as if we waited a long time for spring to arrive this year.  Cold and rainy weather lasted well into May.  But finally, on the last weekend in May, spring finally showed up.  And it is glorious!  

The temperatures are mild, the breezes gentle, and the skies are filled with cotton ball clouds with only the smallest hint of rain. The trees are green, the scent of Jasmine fills the air, and pretty flower boxes fill balconies. Is there a better place to spend spring than in Tuscany? 

 The final days of May also brought two very enjoyable festivals to Lucca. 

The first is the Lucca Medievale Festival.   The event took place on the mura storiche (historic walls) where a medieval encampment sprang up along one of the large green bulwarks that jut out from the walls.  

Throughout the camp craftsmen and women, all in costume, demonstrated medieval crafts.  There were woodturners, blacksmiths, and chainmail makers.

Weavers and clothmakers worked alongside pottery artisans and clog makers. Rough beeswax candles were on display as were some ancient (and quite scary) medical instruments.  A stone carver worked with small tools to create delicate designs.

Musicians played antique instruments; there was no shortage of medieval weapons. Throughout the weekend-long festival were exhibitions of historic dances, arts, crossbow competitions, and music. Lucca is in so many ways still a medieval town and the festival really brings that era to life. It’s an annual event - now is the time to make plans to visit Lucca next spring!

 The second event to enliven the city in late May was the French Market.  It is always exciting when this market comes to town. It is only fitting that the market fills Piazza Napoleone, Lucca’s largest piazza.  The large open piazza was created during the time when Napoleon’s sister, Elisa Bonaparte Baciocchi, was the Principessa of Lucca.  Her impact on Lucca is felt to this day. I think she would approve of hosting a French market in front of her palace!

 The market featured typical French products – soaps, perfumes, and table linens as well as French foods.   French breads were baked on site. French pastries and French cheeses filled the booths.  And the quiches! Quiche Lorraine, goat cheese and tomato, veggie and even salmon quiches warm from the oven were ready to take home for a tasty French themed lunch. 

Whenever the French market comes to Lucca, I line up to buy some bastoncini.  These breads – much thicker than a breadstick but thinner than a small baguette – are a bit of an addiction for me.  Crisp on the outside and soft on the inside, they are studded with olives, walnuts, pancetta, or cheese.   Paired with a market quiche and a salad they transport me right back to Provence. 

 The spring days in Lucca are meant to be enjoyed - a wonderful pause between the cold, rainy season and the advent of hot weather and busy summer activities. Welcome spring!

A Spring Time Market in Padova

A cold and rainy March gave way to an April with very erratic weather in northern Italy.  Some days felt very much like spring, a couple of days brought summer temperatures, and other days were unseasonably cold.  But that didn’t stop spring produce from appearing in the markets, providing lots of inspiration for early spring cooking. I spent some time earlier this month in Padova, a city with an exceptionally good food market. Fortunately, I had a sunny day perfect for exploring the market.  A morning spent shopping here is, to me at least, every bit as wonderful as visiting the major attractions of the city. 

The Palazzo della Ragione provides a beautiful and historic backdrop for Padova’s market

Part of the market takes place outdoors in front of the beautiful Palazzo della Ragione where a piazza full of stalls sell the freshest, most beautiful produce.  It would be hard to ask for a better setting than this historic spot.

 In April the spring vegetables take center stage.   The colorful choices start with a whole palette of shades of green.  Fat green asparagus sit alongside the white variety, playing off the thin deep green shoots of the nearby agretti and bags of shelled peas.  

 The leeks are pale with green tops while the fresh pea pods are a vibrant shade of green.  There are green with a yellow tinge fava beans, perfect to snack on paired with a bit of salty cheese.  And broad, flat green beans which remind me of the ones my Italian grandfather grew in his New York backyard. 

 For contrast, yellow and red peppers provide some brilliant color alongside pale white new onions and golden brown new potatoes. 

 Purple tinged artichokes are piled up to be sold whole or already trimmed and either cut in half or pared down to just the heart (why can’t I find these in Lucca?).  

 The strawberries are mouthwatering – they were bright red, sweet, and delicious.   

The second half of the market takes place indoors underneath the Palazzo della Ragione. 

Here you’ll find carnivore heaven with the most wonderful selection of meats.  The Macellai (butchers) display everything from simple cuts to prepared rolled and stuffed roasts of beef, chicken, guinea fowl, and turkey.  Prepared polpette (meatballs) too.  The salumeria (delis) have salami, prosciutto, bresaola, and other meats for slicing. 

 The Pescivendoli (fishmongers) sell whole fish, fillets, big piovra (octopus), sardines and anchovies, shrimp, and lots of shellfish varieties.  Whipped baccala (a specialy of the Venetian area) is available by the scoopful. 

 And the formaggi (cheeses)!  The scent is swoon-worthy and the choices seemingly endless. 

 Other stalls display olives, cicchetti (those small Venetian style bites of goodness), fresh pasta, grains, spices, honey, and a wide selection of prepared foods. The flower stall was colorful and featured spring tulips.

 Everytime I visit this market I begin to think that I should move to Padova - it really is a cook’s dream. My next visit will have to be longer and in an apartment with a kitchen! If the springtime market is this wonderful, just imagine what summer will bring! 

Easter in Lucca, 2024

Celebrating the Easter (Pasqua in Italian) holidays in Lucca always feels special to me. Easter marks the beginning of spring and Lucca in spring is filled with mild weather and fun events.  There is always a lot to look forward to and Easter is the kick-off to some of the best months to be in Italy. 

Not only that, but Easter here, along with Pasquetta the day after Easter and also a holiday, is so filled with tradition and, well, just Italian-ness, that it always gives me a renewed sense of appreciation that I get to live here. 

Plus, the holiday a great excuse to get together with friends for Easter weekend dinners, Easter morning brunch, and a long, slow dinner on Easter Sunday evening.  Easter is meant to be spent with friends!   And coming after Lent, it’s meant to involve good food and drink. Which is one reason why there is so much chocolate in shop windows here.

This street-side shrine is one of the first stops on the Via Crucis.

Easter in Italy is marked by ancient religious traditions.   And whether one is religious or not, the Easter rituals carry historic significance and always leave me a bit in awe. Each year, on Good Friday (Venerdì Santo in Italian), many cities have processions which recreate the Via Crucis, Stations of the Cross.

In Lucca this solemn procession is enacted by members of the Confraternity of the Misericordia, a volunteer civic organization.  Dressed in hooded black robes, with many participants barefoot, they walk through the historic center carrying a heavy crucifix.  The procession stops at small shrines and churches for prayers and chanting. The procession is followed by a group of local worshippers.  As they move through Lucca’s medieval streets, it is easy to imagine similar processions taking place hundreds of years ago.  Time seems to stop and only the cameras and cell phones snapping pictures give a sense of modernity. (Video on the Two Parts Italy Facebook page)

Not all Easter traditions are religious or ancient.  Part of the holiday for me involves baking Easter bread.  This is a simple sweet bread decorated with eggs, a recipe I learned from an Italian friend of my parents many years ago. It’s perfect for a simple breakfast or as an Easter gift.

I am a bit oven-challenged here, as my apartment only has a small countertop electric oven, but I managed to turn out two small loaves this year. 

Another important tradition for me is hosting an Easter meal - and brunch is my favorite meal to prepare and share with friends.  The menu for this year’s brunch was anything but traditional.  After recently discovering Beehive Bagels in Rome, and learning that they would overnight fresh New York style bagels to me in Lucca, my menu choice was set.  Bagels with cream cheese and smoked salmon with all the needed trimmings – red onion, capers, thinly sliced cucumbers, and some fresh chives which I happen to have growing on my windowsill, and deviled eggs.   Add to that the fruit, Prosecco, and Blood Orange juice brought by my guests and we had all the ingredients for a nice Easter morning meal.  And since it is fun to try something new for Easter, this year I made a ricotta almond torte flavored with Limoncello – a little something Italian to add to my very American style Easter brunch.

Today, the day after Easter, is still a holiday here in Italy.  Pasquetta is a day for relaxed fun.  For me that will mean coffee with a friend, a walk on the walls (probably with an umbrella), and watching spring start to bloom around Lucca.

I hope your Easter holiday was filled with friends, laughter, good food, and anticipation of spring.

Buona Pasquetta!

The Church of San Salvatore in Lucca

A painted door in Piazza del Salvatore, Lucca

A couple of days in Lucca last week were rain free – perfect for catching up on errands.   My tasks included a stop at the lavandaria (cleaners), a quick visit to a local shop to buy a pretty pot for the chives I’ll grow on a sunny windowsill, a meet up with a friend for a coffee (there may have been a pastry involved), and a trip to the Ortofrutta to stock up on vegetables. 

 The best part of running errands here is that it never feels like a chore.  No drudgery involved.  How could there be when the errands are done on foot and all involve a walk through historic Medieval streets?  There are ancient stone buildings, centuries old decorative brick work around windows, balconies full of flowers, and beautiful old wooden doors along every route.  Add to that the sound of spoken Italian providing a soundtrack to daily life here and chores are fun.

On my errands I stopped into one of Lucca’s small and lesser known (at least to visitors; it’s a favorite of locals) churches. It was empty, silent, and unguarded. I was the only person inside, free to admire the architecture, artwork, and treasures within. To leave such a historic place, filled with valuable artifacts, so accessible would be unheard of in the US.  Here in Lucca it is not unusual at all.  

The Church of San Salvatore, also known as the Church of the Misericordia, Lucca

The church, officially the Church of San Salvatore in Mustolio, is more commonly known as the Church of the Misericordia because it is located right next to what was for many years the office of the Misericordia Ambulance Service.   

A few months ago the ambulance service moved outside of central Lucca, leaving a spot for some benches and flower pots in the space where the ambulances used to sit. The stone wall of the church is now easy to see and the historic carved lintel above the side door more visible.

This new sitting area, once filled with parked ambulances, is now a pretty place to sit facing the piazza along the side of the church.

 A church has stood here for over 1000 years**, with major renovations and modifications over time.  Some of the most important elements of the current church are the exterior lintels, one over the front right door (below, right) and one over the side door (below, left), that date from the 12th century.  Each lintel tells a story from the life of Saint Nicholas.  They are beautifully carved, in wonderful shape, and are important examples of decorative elements from that time period. 

The interior of the church has a main altar that contains a 14th century wooden crucifix.   Two smaller altars are placed along the sides of the small church. One, an ornate sculpted piece, frames a Christ with bound wrists. The other is a depiction of Our Lady of Fatima surrounded by children.

There are several paintings inside the church, including an Ascension from the year 1561 by the local artist Vezzano and another that depicts local favorite Santa Zita in the company of several saints. 

I always find the little details in a church fascinating. A memorial marker, a lantern, a holy water font, a small shrine, a simple stature, a bit of faded fresco. This are the things that capture my attention and there are plenty to see in the Church of San Salvatore.

The quiet church provides an oasis of calm.  As an added bonus, it sits within the Piazza del Salvatore with Nottolini’s famous fountain topped by the Naiade statue. What a beautiful place to stop in the midst of running errands!

** A huge thanks to The Wanderer’s Guide to Lucca by Brian Lindquist for the history of San Salvatore church.  His book, and the accompanying Wanderer’s Map, remain the most valuable English language source for information on the historic churches and buildings in Lucca.  It’s a must have for anyone living here or interested in Lucca’s history.

Can you spot Santa Zita in this painting from the year 1638 by Mannucci?